Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1403065/mpage_124/tm.htm]Original Thread[/link]


If you want to sift through 125 pages to find the info, click above. Otherwise I'll crop out the real tips and post them below to save you a few hours of your life. (NOTE: I am "borrowing" stuff from that thread, and I will give the respective author credit for the tip)


Feel free to help me reduce that monster thread if you're bored.

Break In

This is important, the instructions that came with your evader are WRONG. The instructions given are not written by OS and instruct you to run the motor far too lean. If you follow these instructions, you will be following the next tip to send your motor back to Duratrax. When they send you a new engine, you'll notice that the instructions are completely different. To prevent going through this whole poopy process, follow the new instructions for break in.

The new breakin instructions are:

1. Start the engine with the hi speed needle 2 1/2 turns out.
2. Then richen the setting by 1/8 turn until the truck will just barely runs
3. Finish the first tank this way at slow to medium running
4. Check temp every few minutes to make sure there is no over heating
5. Turn the needle in 1/12 turns at a time for runs 2-6, again checking temps
6. Final needle setting should be between 2 - 2 1/2 turns

Warranty Information

The engine in the evader is covered under warranty for 3 years. The Evader itself has a little advertised 90 day bumper to bumper warranty in addition to the 1yr stress tech. Go here to get the forms and info you need: [link=http://www.hobbyservices.com/index.html]Hobby Services[/link] Also, remove the pullstart and glow plug from the motor before you send it in, often when you get it back you'll have a new motor with a pull-start and glow plug. Free spares!
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=87812]MotorPsyko[/link]

I broke my pull start :(

First of all, if you're having starting problems you need to address that. Flooding your engine is a quick way to break your starter due to hydrolocking. Your one-way bearing (insider the pull-start) won't take much abuse at all. If your cord is broke, you're probably pulling the thing too hard and too far. You should be taking very short maybe 6 inch pulls. Okay, so your cord isn't broke? Pull it and listen to the pull-start. Is it "chirping"? If it is, your bearing is shot. You can fix the bearing itself or you can order a new bearing. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLV7&P=7]One-way bearing[/link] If you just want a new pull-start, you can get [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLX0&P=ML]this one.[/link] Note: It is a good idea to tape or hold the black spindle to the case, you don't want this ******* to come uncoiled. It's not fun to try to put it back together. I used a bent paperclip to pull the one-way bearing out of the spindle.
Contributed by: Everyone


Evader Parts

Dude! Where can I get parts for my Nitro Evader?!!oneone! Try here! [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=DTXD62**&P=Z]Parts List for the Nitro Evader ST RTR[/link]
Contributed by: Everyone

My Fuel Tank Sucks Monkey

Moral of the story, the stock tank sucks. There have been tips on how to fix this with a rubber band, but I don't think that's too great of an idea. The best bet is to get a better tank. Most of us (those who replaced) use this tank. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=ML]Associated Fuel Tank[/link] You'll have to drill holes to get it done, but it's nothing to be afriad of. However, if you're on a budget, you could always try the rubber band idea. Just take the tank off and toss a few highly wrapped rubber bands on it. You can put a zip tie on the rubber bands so they are easier to pull away from the lid. It's a good idea to fix this soon, as you'll dirty your ride up in a jiffy with gas leaking all over it. Not fun to clean up.
Contributed by: Me and a million others.

HOW TO INSTALL RC10GT TANK

1st, get a piece of card about the same size as the tank, then put a thin dob of grease on each of the fuel tank mounting holes & put the tank onto the piece of card. then holding the tank in position on the card trace around the tank. you can then cut out the shape of the tank & have the 3 grease marks where the holes need to go.

2nd place the card on the top of the chassis & line up the template in the best location so the tank fits. you should be able to use an existing hole. mark out the 2 new holes you need to drill.

3rd drill the new holes & countersink them. put the screws through & stickytape them in place.

4th put the o rings on the screws protruding and place the tank on the screws. the tape will hold the screws in place and let you get the tank & orings all lined up with little frustration. then simple screw the tank on hitch up the fuel lines & you're ready to go.

Contributed by: dicko

Steering Servo

Get that stinking SX100 servo out of there! You -need- a nice metal-geared high-torque servo! If you need to rebuild your SX100 Servo, remember, it's just a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH288&P=ML]Futaba S3003 Servo[/link].

I also saw a tip about a guy who took apart his servo saver and grinded the "V" part to more of a "U" shape and cut half a circle off of the spring to allow the servo saver actually give a little. The stock setting doesn't have much give even if it's completely loose.
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=86031]WindDrake[/link] and some dude.

Starting Problems

Just like the manual says, try starting the engine at 50% throttle! If your carb is out of tune, just turn the radio gear off, plug your glow igniter in, and use a finger to open up the carb by pushing on the servo horn. Another thing I noticed is that it totally -hates- slightly-going glowplugs or batteries. It's a very finicky motor!
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=86031]WindDrake[/link]

Failsafe Idea

When you take off the cover for the receiver there is a lip that sticks up that the cover fits around. Notch the lip the width of the wire for the failsafe, then notch out the same width on the cover in the same spot. Don't make the hole too big -- you want the wire to seal up the hole as much as possible without pinching it. [link=http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL207/1304578/2479677/42843841.jpg]Pic 1[/link] [link=http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL207/1304578/2479677/42843865.jpg]Pic 2[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEYG2&P=7]OFNA Failsafe[/link]
Contributed by: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=82845]crazyswede[/link]

Cold Weather Bashing

Cold temperatures cause all plastic and nylon parts to become more brittle and break easier. If you plan on running your vehicle in cold weather (below 45 degrees F), you may experience parts breaking easier than under normal operating conditions. If you must run in cold temperatures below 45 degrees F, one option to help limit breakage and increase the toughness of nylon parts (chassis, suspension arms, bulkheads, etc.) is by disassembling the vehicle and boiling only the nylon parts for 2 hours. This will cause the nylon parts to be more flexible than usual. Wait for the nylon parts to cool completely before reassembling. This will not solve all problems in cold weather running.
Contributed by: [link=http://www.duratrax.com/faq/product-faq.html#q596]Duratrax[/link]




THINGS TO ADD HERE: crappy break-in manual, how-to piston/sleeve warranty and replacment (with pics), crappy clutch bell issue, how-to gearing guide, how-to 4 shoe clutch, Engine swaps (OS 18 CV-RX), poopy doopy stock gas tank issues, diff issues, what parts you should replace, links to other sites containing tips[link=http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1317620].[/link]

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

dang i was gona do this to lol beat me too it o well lets start this forum PART 2

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Yeah, no joke. If you have a tip, just post it in here and I'll edit it (spelling, links if needed and pics) I'll add your name and such to the bottom of the tip and add it to the first post.
If it's all in the same format people will be able to find their problems a lot easier.

Should help all those evader guys out there.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

ever flood your engine and dont want to take out the plug, turn it on its side kinda upside down and turn the motor to push the gas out the exhaustand, then make the excess fuel pour out the muffler... i'll add more

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

That would work, but with the crappy stock pull start you're asking for it to die. Sadly, I'd rather take the stupid time to pull the plug. I just take the batter out of the glow starter and use it as a wrench since I don't have a real one. (I'm cheap) =]

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Added PROPER break in proceedures and warranty info.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

hi i live in england wont i be able to send my motor bck

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Have you made any US friends with an evader? Send him your engine and ask him to send it in for you. Give him a few bucks for it.

Not sure if that's too practical or not.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Is your DTX .18 worn out? Warrenty expired? New engine too expensive? Convert it to an O.S. 15...
You will need the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGYC5&P=7]piston/sleeve[/link], [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCF32&P=Z]con. rod[/link], and[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCS77&P=Z] pin[/link]. You will also need a Heatsink for an OS .15, such as [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDRV8&P=7]this one[/link]. Total for these parts from Tower Hobbies: around $65. This conversion makes your engine more reliable and longer lasting. The newly-converted engine must be broken-in using the [link=http://www.osengines.com/manuals/15cv-cv-x-manual.pdf]O.S. INSTRUCTIONS[/link].
I have done this swap to the DTX .18 myself, and it works great.;)

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Ross05,

I live in Australia & sent my engine back to the importer here who sent it back to me telling me bad luck. I then contacted the guys in the US & they told me to send it to them. a few weeks later I recieved a completely rebuilt engine. Contact your local importer first then if you don't have any luck email the guys in the States.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

hey dicko,
I know that the 4-shoe clutch setup has a higher engagement point (and i saw the post about doing adjustments to it) but I wanna how much longer do the SHOES last compared to the stock once (if any difference)

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

I got the actual break-in from duratrax last night and will add it in above in the first post.

1) Put the fuel in the car (make sure to use something with at least 18% lubricant).

2) Make sure that you have fresh batteries in your transmitter, receiver, and glow starter.

3) Turn on the transmitter and receiver.

4) Make sure that your high speed needle valve is set at about 2-1/2 or 3 turns out from close.

5) Your carb should be open about 2mm. You may need to adjust the idle screw or the throttle trim.

6) Put the glow starter on the glow plug and lock it on by slightly turning the starter.

7) Pull recoil with short quick pulls. (May take up to about 25 quick pulls to start)

8) Hold the car from moving and pull on trigger and release, car should try to move with out stalling.

9) Remove the glow starter and start driving either back and forth or in a big circle. (You will need a large area so that you will have plenty of room to open it up all the way with out hitting something.) Vary the throttle making sure to open the it up fully at least part of the time.

10) Your car should be rich and you should be seeing smoke coming out of the muffler or tune pipe.
The car will also seem slow or "dogish." (That is normal during break in)

11) Make sure to let your engine cool for 3-5 minutes between tanks. ( For the first 2 or 3 tanks do not fill up all of the way, ½ to 3/4 will be just fine)

12) After the first 2 tanks you can start leaning the engine (closing the high speed needle). Each tank you should lean it 1/8 of a turn until your car is no longer "dogish" and is starting to sound right.
It should only take between 6-10 tanks of fuel before it is fully broken in. Your needle will be around 2 turns out from close but it will vary depending on the engine.

Do not let your engine run at idle for very long until it has been broken in completely. Idling during break-in will cause the parts to break-in at too low of a temp and will cause eventual failure when engine gets hotter.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

my stock ones were lasting bugger all amount of time with my current set up (i was re grooving the shoes & replacing the spring almost daily), the new shoes so far have very little wear and have had no maintenance since i installed them several months ago. i like them a lot. the easiest way to get them to fit is to put the shoes on the flywheel & mount the fly wheel on a drill press or lathe & use some sand paper on a block or a file & turn them down. takes about 2 minutes if you do it with care. you also need to cut a few mm off the spring length, a dremel is handy for this.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

I'm not lucky enough to have a drill press or a lathe around. Looks like I'll be doing it the hard way =[

My 4-shoe should arrive from tower tomorrow

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

stick a cordless drill securely in the vice & put it on slow. the rounder the shoes the better the performance & balance.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Yeah, I was worried about making them all lop-sided.

How much will I have to grind down?

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

i ground it down so that there was a mm or 2 movement between the bell & shoes when the shoes are fully in. the closer the gap, the lower rpm you need for it to engage & visa versa. start with about 1mm all round & if you think it is engaging too soon take a little more off, it's up to how you like to drive.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

The funnest part of this hobby is I had to learn how all of this worked. Taking things apart is always fun, especially when you can fix it up. I'm still trying to peg the differential thing.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

I thought final needle was 1 1/4-1 3/8?
I have heard of this... does this mean my shocks and spur gear and such are covered? Do I just send them to Duratrax?

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Q1: Only in the dirty manual.

Q2: Can't say I've sent little stuff back. I'm too impatient and shipping costs would negate the fact they are covered under warranty.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Has anyone thought of placing the battery box in front of the receiver, almost between the front shocks? I figure this way I can properly mount a good wheelie bar, add some weight to the front for more responsive steering, and protect the batteries (and the box!) from getting torn to shreds. Anyone done it? Anyone think I should do it? :)

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

Yeah... how much is a gasket kit for the shocks? Basically I lost my seal on a jump and blew all my oil out.
Tightened down the spring to give it some more strength till I repaired the shock, and low-and-behold I jumped again and the suspension shot down like a rock ripping the damn shock piston OUT and letting my shaft pop out, which without the resistance caused my engine to speed up and die.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

I know it's been done before but I can't find where I've seen it. I haven't gone through the whole 125 pages yet. I know some r/c users replaced that box with a 5-cell rechargable setup.

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

I think this has been asked before but I can't seem to find it. Does the OS .12 cv-rx fit in the evader or should I go with the .18?

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
 

The os 12 15 and 18 are direct fits.

=]