making your own bodies
#26
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RE: making your own bodies
ORIGINAL: drcrash
Are you talking about vacuum forming directly over the existing body?
If so, I'd be worried that the plastic might warp. But if you don't support it (fill it with clay or something), it will definitely get crushed. Even a vacuum cleaner can apply about three hundred pounds of force per square foot of surface. (A vacuum pump can apply up to a ton of force per square foot.)
The usual thing is to cast plaster INSIDE the original piece of vacuum-formed plastic, using it as a mold, and vacuum form over the plaster cast. (You need to support the original with clay, or maybe in a sand box, or something, to keep it from distorting under the weight of the wet plaster. Wet plaster is heavy.)
If the original was formed over a male mold in the usual way, you actually get better detail that way---the side of the plastic against the mold captures the shape of the mold better. The other side is a bit more smoothed and rounded, by the thickness of the plastic (and usually a bit more).
This is a good idea for making "backup copies" of cowlings and other things that tend to get broken in crashes. When that happens, you can just pull another one over the plaster positive you saved. (Tip: make the plaster cast BEFORE you trim the flash off the original. The extra plastic around the edge helps keep it rigid during casting.)
Don't do this just to make a bunch of copies of somebody's commercial shape though. (That's not cool or legal.) But if you want to transform an original you own into (say) thicker or tougher plastic, it can be "fair use". (In my opinion, but maybe not their lawyer's. But if you're not selling them, or giving them away, they probably wouldn't care.)
The best application of this "recasting" is when you can buy a shape that's *close* to what you want, cast it, and modifiy the cast to make it *exactly* what you want. (Like adding scale details, or making it into a different version of the same make of plane, etc.)
ORIGINAL: calvin33
Think this will work with existing bodies or will the plastic be too hot?
Think this will work with existing bodies or will the plastic be too hot?
If so, I'd be worried that the plastic might warp. But if you don't support it (fill it with clay or something), it will definitely get crushed. Even a vacuum cleaner can apply about three hundred pounds of force per square foot of surface. (A vacuum pump can apply up to a ton of force per square foot.)
The usual thing is to cast plaster INSIDE the original piece of vacuum-formed plastic, using it as a mold, and vacuum form over the plaster cast. (You need to support the original with clay, or maybe in a sand box, or something, to keep it from distorting under the weight of the wet plaster. Wet plaster is heavy.)
If the original was formed over a male mold in the usual way, you actually get better detail that way---the side of the plastic against the mold captures the shape of the mold better. The other side is a bit more smoothed and rounded, by the thickness of the plastic (and usually a bit more).
This is a good idea for making "backup copies" of cowlings and other things that tend to get broken in crashes. When that happens, you can just pull another one over the plaster positive you saved. (Tip: make the plaster cast BEFORE you trim the flash off the original. The extra plastic around the edge helps keep it rigid during casting.)
Don't do this just to make a bunch of copies of somebody's commercial shape though. (That's not cool or legal.) But if you want to transform an original you own into (say) thicker or tougher plastic, it can be "fair use". (In my opinion, but maybe not their lawyer's. But if you're not selling them, or giving them away, they probably wouldn't care.)
The best application of this "recasting" is when you can buy a shape that's *close* to what you want, cast it, and modifiy the cast to make it *exactly* what you want. (Like adding scale details, or making it into a different version of the same make of plane, etc.)
thanks in advance
#27
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RE: making your own bodies
I use regular plaster of paris and pour it directly into an untrimmed body, when cured it makes a great plug. It does get warm but not enough to warp the body which can be cleaned up and used after making the plug.
#28
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RE: making your own bodies
ORIGINAL: DogbreathRacing
I use regular plaster of paris and pour it directly into an untrimmed body, when cured it makes a great plug. It does get warm but not enough to warp the body which can be cleaned up and used after making the plug.
I use regular plaster of paris and pour it directly into an untrimmed body, when cured it makes a great plug. It does get warm but not enough to warp the body which can be cleaned up and used after making the plug.
again, thanks for the response
#29
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RE: making your own bodies
i guess you could make one out of plywood, make a box the size body you want to make then the top ply would have tiny holes in it . use a shop vac for a vacume but the melting is the hard part. maybe a bunch of infared bathroom bulbs they sell for a heat lamp (at the depot) they are red in color and use that to heat the lexan or plastic with. you are gonna need 2 circuts to power those 2 things, one 15 amp circut for the vac and one 15 amp circut for the heat lamps. it may be cheaper to go buy them lol . just a guess