CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
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CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Hello all!
I just received my CA Model Xurama biplane, first I have to say that their quality is still improving, the fuselage is perfect, very light and super strong. wings and stabs all first quality balsa, very good job on this kit!!!
The kit is meant to be electric, but... I love YS power. So I will find a way of mounting a YS 170 CDI in there! so a chin cowl will be needed
here are some picturs of the kit just out of the box, I will post the weigths tomorow as I start the build process.
I just received my CA Model Xurama biplane, first I have to say that their quality is still improving, the fuselage is perfect, very light and super strong. wings and stabs all first quality balsa, very good job on this kit!!!
The kit is meant to be electric, but... I love YS power. So I will find a way of mounting a YS 170 CDI in there! so a chin cowl will be needed
here are some picturs of the kit just out of the box, I will post the weigths tomorow as I start the build process.
#4
RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Yes!! There might be a lot of glow to electric conversions, but this is going to be electric to YS!!!
I'm waiting to see how it comes out to convert mine (ARF),it's Tuny's idea also, it's still not put together but Tuny is right, this plane deserves a YS.
I'm very happy flying my Amethyst Hacker powered, but on blue skies I really miss the smoke, Tuny says it's a sin to fly with no smoke on beautiful skies when there are no clouds, and honestly judges will see the errors with or without smoke, so no excuses for us. My scores sucks because I don't have time to practice, definitely not because of the smoke.
After flying from sea level to 8000Ft Alt fields with the YS CDI and the Hacker, I still prefer YS over the electric, It does have better power response, you just increase two clicks on low power and you can feel the power from the YS, you can't on the electric, on the top power I will say they are pretty much the same, maybe the electric has a little bit more, but the main thing I don't like about electrics and I love on my YS, is electric flight duration is 7 to 8 minutes, against 13 to 14 on the YS, I can practice double the time on YS. Having such short flights in electric definitely sucks, no matter what, no excuses or explanations needed there, just sucks. Of course I only had two flame out on my YS engines in over 8 years.
Why do I fly electrics now? the Amethyst is the reason, it's the best flying plane I ever had, but I want a YS powered Xurama too, remember Tuny, on the formers, two of each please.
Time to get creative Tuny!!
Alejandro P.
I'm waiting to see how it comes out to convert mine (ARF),it's Tuny's idea also, it's still not put together but Tuny is right, this plane deserves a YS.
I'm very happy flying my Amethyst Hacker powered, but on blue skies I really miss the smoke, Tuny says it's a sin to fly with no smoke on beautiful skies when there are no clouds, and honestly judges will see the errors with or without smoke, so no excuses for us. My scores sucks because I don't have time to practice, definitely not because of the smoke.
After flying from sea level to 8000Ft Alt fields with the YS CDI and the Hacker, I still prefer YS over the electric, It does have better power response, you just increase two clicks on low power and you can feel the power from the YS, you can't on the electric, on the top power I will say they are pretty much the same, maybe the electric has a little bit more, but the main thing I don't like about electrics and I love on my YS, is electric flight duration is 7 to 8 minutes, against 13 to 14 on the YS, I can practice double the time on YS. Having such short flights in electric definitely sucks, no matter what, no excuses or explanations needed there, just sucks. Of course I only had two flame out on my YS engines in over 8 years.
Why do I fly electrics now? the Amethyst is the reason, it's the best flying plane I ever had, but I want a YS powered Xurama too, remember Tuny, on the formers, two of each please.
Time to get creative Tuny!!
Alejandro P.
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Thanks Jim!! here it goes...
So lets get started.. first here is a list of all the components weigths justout of the box
- Fuselage 660g
- Top hatch 32g
- Top left wing 115g
- Bottom left wing 114g
- Top right wing 113g
- Bottom right wing 118g
- Left stab 48g
- Right stab 47g
- Rudder 31g
- Landing gear 134g (both)
- Wheel pants 18g (both)
Ok now to the fun part, the fuselage is meant to be electric, so no chin cowl to have acces to a glow engine, so first I will make one. the engine can be mounted from the top without a chin cowl, but I like having easy acces to the engine.
First I marked the fuselage where to cut the cowl, next I used a X-acto saw blade to cut the fuse, a little at the time, it takes some time but with a little patience the result is great and I only losted about 0,5mm in the cut. as I cut I taped the cutted portions to make the work easier.
pics...
BTW The chin cowl looks very big on the pictures but it is same size as any other...
So lets get started.. first here is a list of all the components weigths justout of the box
- Fuselage 660g
- Top hatch 32g
- Top left wing 115g
- Bottom left wing 114g
- Top right wing 113g
- Bottom right wing 118g
- Left stab 48g
- Right stab 47g
- Rudder 31g
- Landing gear 134g (both)
- Wheel pants 18g (both)
Ok now to the fun part, the fuselage is meant to be electric, so no chin cowl to have acces to a glow engine, so first I will make one. the engine can be mounted from the top without a chin cowl, but I like having easy acces to the engine.
First I marked the fuselage where to cut the cowl, next I used a X-acto saw blade to cut the fuse, a little at the time, it takes some time but with a little patience the result is great and I only losted about 0,5mm in the cut. as I cut I taped the cutted portions to make the work easier.
pics...
BTW The chin cowl looks very big on the pictures but it is same size as any other...
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Gregg - after watching Tuny's other builds, I'm guessing he will use a CF strip/tow of some type to create strength around the edges of new cut outs (where a folded over lip would have otherwise been). Possibly the top-hatch will get glued on as well.
Jim
Jim
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
In the 'old' days when I used to cut hatches out of fiberglass fuses, I would just use a little hard 1/16" balsa to make the lip, or I would tape up the hatch, then lay some light glass in behind it to make the lip. Either way works fine.
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Hey Guys! about the lips on the cowl, Jim you are right. Iwill use some carbon to strength arond the cuts, then im still decinding if I will make a folded lip (like on the top hatch) or a simple lip. first I need to get some structure inside the fuse then I will work on that. this is because I dont want the fuse to twist while making the lip, first I have to make it stiff again.
about the top hatch, I just dont know yet, so far it seems like I will have to close it to add strength, but after the internal structure is done I will see. it woud be very nice to keep the acces hatch.
thanks guys!!!
TUNY
about the top hatch, I just dont know yet, so far it seems like I will have to close it to add strength, but after the internal structure is done I will see. it woud be very nice to keep the acces hatch.
thanks guys!!!
TUNY
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
More...
I started on the landing gear mount and the formers in that area. there will be two formers suportingthe landing gear mount. the rear former is made from 1/8 lite plywood, not from 1 piece but builded up to take advantage of the grains in the wood, this way the former works better and is lighter because it uses less wood, then is laminated on both sides with carbon, using carbon strips the laminating process is more efficient, this way the glue joints on the former are reinforced with double carbon, the result is a super strong and super ligth former. This former is very important because it supports the loads from the landing gear and later wil hold the bottom wing as well.
the landing gear mount is two 1/8 lite plywod laminated with carbon, making a piece thatis carbon/wood/carbon/wood/carbon, this also saves weigth and the mount is also stronger.
pics...
I started on the landing gear mount and the formers in that area. there will be two formers suportingthe landing gear mount. the rear former is made from 1/8 lite plywood, not from 1 piece but builded up to take advantage of the grains in the wood, this way the former works better and is lighter because it uses less wood, then is laminated on both sides with carbon, using carbon strips the laminating process is more efficient, this way the glue joints on the former are reinforced with double carbon, the result is a super strong and super ligth former. This former is very important because it supports the loads from the landing gear and later wil hold the bottom wing as well.
the landing gear mount is two 1/8 lite plywod laminated with carbon, making a piece thatis carbon/wood/carbon/wood/carbon, this also saves weigth and the mount is also stronger.
pics...
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
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Finished the landing gear mount, then made the fron former for the landing gear structure, is made from 1/8 lite plywood ad carbon on both sides, same way as all the others.
then sanded all the surface of the formers with 100 sandpaper, this is to have a very good grip for the epoxy, also sanded the inside of the fuselage where the pieces go. this is very important to make sure I have perfect glue joints, also is a good idea to use the same epoxy for all the work , laminating and joints in the fuse.
then glued the rear former and the landing gear mount in place. with this in place the fuselage is already very strong again.
pics...
Finished the landing gear mount, then made the fron former for the landing gear structure, is made from 1/8 lite plywood ad carbon on both sides, same way as all the others.
then sanded all the surface of the formers with 100 sandpaper, this is to have a very good grip for the epoxy, also sanded the inside of the fuselage where the pieces go. this is very important to make sure I have perfect glue joints, also is a good idea to use the same epoxy for all the work , laminating and joints in the fuse.
then glued the rear former and the landing gear mount in place. with this in place the fuselage is already very strong again.
pics...
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Are you gone add an other former in front of the landing-gear plate? (or on top)?
The momentum of a hard landing will try to bend to LG-plate frontside to the bottom of the plane. It will easily tear your fuselage.
A support former will spread that force over a bigger part of the fuselage.
Cheers
Winfried
p.s. Ignore my above: I didn't look at your pictures in detail,you already made that former
The momentum of a hard landing will try to bend to LG-plate frontside to the bottom of the plane. It will easily tear your fuselage.
A support former will spread that force over a bigger part of the fuselage.
Cheers
Winfried
p.s. Ignore my above: I didn't look at your pictures in detail,you already made that former
#19
RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Gracias por la info.
Por aqui todo en orden. Aprovechando el frio para armar y esperando un mejor clima para hacer el primer vuelo de la temporada !
Seguimos en contacto
saludos
kike
Por aqui todo en orden. Aprovechando el frio para armar y esperando un mejor clima para hacer el primer vuelo de la temporada !
Seguimos en contacto
saludos
kike
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
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finished the landing gear mount, I reinforced all the unions with unidirectional carbon fiber pieces. this is the strongest way to glue the formers but you have to be very carefull, it can gain weight very fast. I did it because those formers are holding most of the torsion in the fuselage, the landing gear forces and the bottom wing.
next I opened all vent holes in the front of the fuse to start working on the engine installation. I will be using a YS Super Mount 2. first I made a dummy engine mount from scrap balsa to find out the shape for the final mount, then made the drawings for the final mount, it will be made on two layers 1/8 inch thick each one, but different lay up of woods on each one. the pictures explain this more than I do.
finished the landing gear mount, I reinforced all the unions with unidirectional carbon fiber pieces. this is the strongest way to glue the formers but you have to be very carefull, it can gain weight very fast. I did it because those formers are holding most of the torsion in the fuselage, the landing gear forces and the bottom wing.
next I opened all vent holes in the front of the fuse to start working on the engine installation. I will be using a YS Super Mount 2. first I made a dummy engine mount from scrap balsa to find out the shape for the final mount, then made the drawings for the final mount, it will be made on two layers 1/8 inch thick each one, but different lay up of woods on each one. the pictures explain this more than I do.
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
More work on the engine mount...
Assembled allthe wood parts that form the mount, then sanded the piece to have a smooth surface to be laminated with carbon, note that the wood structure is different on both sides of the mount. before laminating I test fit the parts in the fuse with the engine to make sure it fits perfect.
then laminated the piece with carbon on both sides, test fit on the fuse again and marked the location for the blind nuts that will hold the nose ring in place, is a lot easier to install these blind nuts before installing the piece inthe fuse. the nose ring will be hold in place with two 4-40 bolts. finally covered with monokote the wood areas that can be seen thru the vent holes in the fuse, just to make it look nice.
pics...
Assembled allthe wood parts that form the mount, then sanded the piece to have a smooth surface to be laminated with carbon, note that the wood structure is different on both sides of the mount. before laminating I test fit the parts in the fuse with the engine to make sure it fits perfect.
then laminated the piece with carbon on both sides, test fit on the fuse again and marked the location for the blind nuts that will hold the nose ring in place, is a lot easier to install these blind nuts before installing the piece inthe fuse. the nose ring will be hold in place with two 4-40 bolts. finally covered with monokote the wood areas that can be seen thru the vent holes in the fuse, just to make it look nice.
pics...
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RE: CA Model XURAMA BIPLANE Build Glow Powered
Thanks Jim!! I'm glad you like it!!
more...
installed the engine mount in the fuselage, its glued with carbon fibres just like the landing gear formers, as I said before this is the strongest way to glue the pieces where the extra strengh is needed, but remember that is heavier than epoxy and microbaloons so be carefull when doing it. Then I installed the blind nuts that will support the engine, I used 2 6-32 bolts.
next I made a very important piece on this build, as the fuselage was made for electric I needed to add strengh to the front of the fuse, remember there is a top hatch, so I made a reinforcement with 3/32 balse cross grain, sanded a little bit so it may be closer to 1/16, laminated with carbon on both sides to add resistance. the result is a very ligth but very strong piece. again, the pictures explain better than me.
more...
installed the engine mount in the fuselage, its glued with carbon fibres just like the landing gear formers, as I said before this is the strongest way to glue the pieces where the extra strengh is needed, but remember that is heavier than epoxy and microbaloons so be carefull when doing it. Then I installed the blind nuts that will support the engine, I used 2 6-32 bolts.
next I made a very important piece on this build, as the fuselage was made for electric I needed to add strengh to the front of the fuse, remember there is a top hatch, so I made a reinforcement with 3/32 balse cross grain, sanded a little bit so it may be closer to 1/16, laminated with carbon on both sides to add resistance. the result is a very ligth but very strong piece. again, the pictures explain better than me.