emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

I was wondering what paint and painting methods you guys use for your fiberglass fuse's.
the only fiberglass parts i havedone are fiberglass cowls using monokote or ultrcote paints.
i dont think thats what you guys are using to get such nice paint jobs on your pattern ships.
can you tell me what you use and how you do it.? (equimpment and paint)do you paint the balsa wings
if so how do i go about that. do you clearcoatafter your done.maybe you know of some links to
show me how to do some of this any help i would be greatful
thanks

grcourtney

My Feedback: (1)

ppg concept

g

NJRCFLYER2

My Feedback: (42)

I've used PPGConcept and Omni. More recently Ihave taken to using Klass Kote epoxy based paint. Ilike them all, but Ithink Iwill stay with the Klass Kote for two main reasons. First is safety, since the Klass Kote isless reactive if you do come in contact with it. You still need to use a proper respirator and protection for your hands, but Ilike the fact that the overspray and fumes that drift out of the paint shop are not as volatile. The 2nd reason is cost.

The Klass Kote is a little less glossy than the PPGConcept finish, but it is still very nice, plus it flows out very nicely. Iam convinced that you can save some weight, probably 2or 3 oz on a typical 2M project, since it seems easier to me to flow get the finish coat looking right with less material sprayed.

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

PPG Concept single stage. Single stage is fuel proof and does not need to be clear coated. Just my 2 cents

Larry

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I have used Klass Kote epoxy paint and the result is pretty good. It is not as perfectly smooth as PPG though.

On PPG, just wonder what kind of protection one should have when spray it. I never tried PPG myself.

KLXMASTER14

+1 for Klass Kote.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

PPG is great stuff, but it is isocyanide based which is quite toxic. I believe an air supplied respirator is recommended when you spray it, however I never used one, but I painted in my garage which was easy to keep well ventilated (bug free was another issue [:@]. I used Hobbypoxy and Superpoxy paints for years with great success and when I paint again I will be using KlassKote myself. Automotive paints provide a terrific finish and almost unlimited number of colors. I just want a light, durable, fade and fuel resistant finish as I'm not competing at Toledo. )

emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

are you competing flying or model building for the toledo show ? if the show what are you building i will keep a look out for it
thanks

MTK

Epoxy paints are pretty bullet proof for glow fuel or gasoline. The Klass Kote yellow was a little off but I understand talking with Ed, their new yellow formula is fine. I've found the KK epoxy paints to cure quickly and become epoxy hard over short time. As Ed sez, it isn't as shiny as the polyU paints like Concept, Omni or Imron, but it may be good enough for many. If one wants the super glossy finish, he could clear coat the epoxy paint with one of the polyU clear paints. That's what I do

I always use the polyU paints in a well ventilated area and always use a cartridge mask rated for organic vapors. I use the mask for epoxy paints and dopes too. BTW- you know you have the mask on right if can't detect any odor. If odor comes through the mask, re-adjust the mask, change the cartridges or stop spraying to clear fumes. A fresh air mask is better but I don't have one of those.

Jeff-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Don't underestimate what you can do with spray cans. These were both done with Lusterkote.

jaaskela

Epoxies do have great chemical resistance properties, but they're not really suitable for use as topcoats or clear coats in outdoor applications, because UV rays inevitably attack and decompose the polymer matrix (chalking). Maybe a UV-stabilized epoxy can handle it if you don't fly a lot in the sun, but I wouldn't bother trying it when there are plenty of proven acrylic and polyurethane systems available. Just my 2c...

Strat2003

My Feedback: (1)

This is my recently completed Xigris C2, done in Ultracote and Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2X. It goes on easy, rubs out to a nice shine and covers very well. It added about 2 1/2 ounces to the fuselage, cowling, canopy and wheel pants. Don't know about how it stands up to fuel but I'm very happy with it for an electric model.
Scott

MTK

I really like the skis

MTK

I've finished many models over the years in epoxy and flew the models in some of the most sun drenched conditions in the US (Texas and Florida). Never had any issue with chalking...just not enough exposure to UV light. For our application, there is absolutely nothing wrong with epoxy paint. If you also use a clear coat over the epoxy (I usually use Omni polyU clear) it is bullet proof.

By only using clear polyU and not all top coats, I minimize exposure of my body to isocyanates.

emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

where do you get the clear polyU.?
also my buddy ask if it would be good for sealing the seams on his arf covering.? he is looking for something that wont yellow. he tried nail polish before but he said it turned yellow
thanks

MTK

I have a local supplier that carries PPG's Omni line. Look on-line for a suppier near your home.

PolyU paints in general adhere well to a well cleaned plastic covering. I also buff the plastic with 1000 or 1500 grit wet or dry, used wet, b4 spraying. But this step isn't mandatory.

Tell your friend to make sure the ARFie plastic is well layed down first, cleaned as well as possible with prepsol or equivalent, then spray away. I would spray the whole model. Over time, not only will the seams stay put, the whole covering job will tend to stay bubble free. Plus it produces outstanding, even shine throughout

MarkGrabowski

Wow, that came out nice. I was wondering how close is the color match between the paint and film...
what are the colors called that you used?

KGSS28

+ 2 for Klass Kote . Easy application, good gloss , can be rubbed out if desired after full cure . I have no fade or color change that I can tell after a year of flying every day .

Strat2003

My Feedback: (1)

The colors I used are Apple Red, Sun Yellow, Winter Gray, Gloss White and....too dark blue, lol. The red is a good but not perfect match to the Ultracote red, the yellow a little too pastel and the white is good. The blue is just too dark but since I didn't put it up against the blue covering it looks OK....it's just another color.
The coverage was very good so it didn't take a lot of paint to get satisfactory results. The lettering on the side is the same paint as the canopy. I applied it directly over the dark blue without any show-thruough.

This isn't a Toledo-quality finish but it's very acceptable and inexpensive. The automotive paints I priced (in the smallest quantities my auto parts store would sell) were just too expensive for my budget.

jrpav1

My Feedback: (17)

I have to paint in my basement so automotive paint is not really an option for me. I found some water-born catalyzed Urethane that's made by System 3 (marine finishes):

http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

It comes in colors that match Monokote + Ultrakote and you can apply just color (it's technically a "single-stage" paint) or color + clear. The downside is it's not very glossy unless you color-sand and buff. Not a big deal to me because I always end up with some dust in the paint anyhow. Since it's reduced with water you don't need to buy a lot of other stuff besides the paint BUT it is verey dependant on shop conditions. If your shop is dry, it will flash off quickly and you'll end up with dry overspray in some areas. Again, not a big deal if you color-sand. You have to add the catalyst to improve the fuel resistance however but you don't need to use clear if you don't want to (saves weight). For a 2-meter fuse + fin you can expect to add 2-4 oz. using this paint - depending on how much you apply of course. Like anything else, there's no substitute for proper technique.

I wouldn't recommend this for everyone because it is quite a lot more work to get a super glossy finish from this stuff as opposed to automotive paint (if you have a spray booth you can just paint and go - no need to color-sand + buff). If you're concerned about breathing any fumes though this is by far one of the safest systems to use.

Here's a pic. of my Black magic that was covered in silkspan and painted with the Nelson / System 3 paint on the fuse and fin (the wings and stab. are Monokote). It's been out in the sun quite a bit. The plane is about 3 years old now and it still looks great. It's holding up to 15% nitro just fine.

John Pavlick
Team Black Magic

Strat2003

My Feedback: (1)

I don't believe Nelson is in business any longer.

emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

where did you get the black magic kit/plans
thanks

glowplugboy

My Feedback: (17)

What's the airframe on the right?

Mike

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

That would be a Jupiter

glowplugboy

My Feedback: (17)

Ah Ha! Comes from the Hanno "Joker" era if memory serves me correctly.