Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I buned up the original pull-pull installation on my Wind 110. I routed the cables on the wrong side of a former cross member way back in the tail. Anyway, I need to buy some new cables and crimping sleeves.. I thought I'd ask if there was anything better than a Dubro Pull-Pull kit. If you have something you like better I'd like to hear about it.

TIA,

Wiz

Hokie Flyer

Mike,

Jusgt go to WalMart and get some 30 lb fishing line leader (the coated steel type) and crimping ferrules.  It's cheap, effective, and one pack will last for several models.


Rob

cmoulder

While you're in the fishing department, get some small fishing swivels and install them either at the servo arm end or the control horn end to keep the pull-pull cables from winding up when adjusting the tension.

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

See, you guys are the greatest.

Thanks!

Wiz

VerneK

Hi Mike,
I've never had much luck finding the nylon coated stranded fishing line in Michigan. Seems the fish here aren't big enough to need it. You can find it on-line at Cabella's (though the Cabella's in Michigan doesn't stock it). Just do a search for 7-strand coated fishing leader and you'll find all that you need. I use 40 pound test.

A neat trick I learned from Mark Atwood a long time ago negates the need for crimps. Just pull the nylon cable through the rigging coupler with the rudder held straight. Wind the cable around itself three or four times and then briefly hold a Bic lighter under it until the nylon starts to melt. Snip off the excess and you'll have joint that will not slip or fail. If you want to make it pretty, slip on a piece of heat shrink before you thread it through the rigging coupler. After you've melted/bonded the cable and trimmed off the excess, you can slide the heat shrink over the connection and shrink it. I've done at least ten pattern planes this way and never had a failure. Try it!

Verne Koester

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Are you kidding, Verne? You just twist the cables and melt the nylon and it holds..... I dunno. That seems like something I would somehow not get done properly.

cmoulder

I happened to have a bit of coated steel lying about and gave it a try.

Worked surprisingly well!!

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I guess that's the idea. I'll take some of the scrap I just cut and give it a try.

Thanks!

VerneK

No joke, it works great. There's only a couple ways you can screw up.

1. Catch your new plane on fire.

2. Catch the nylon cable coating on fire.

I've done the latter - once. I prefer the black colored nylon coating because it's easier to see the nylon melting. The trick is to wave the flame back and forth over the wire until you see it starting to bubble. That's when you want to immediately back off. Hold on to everything for another 10 seconds or so while the joint cools off and you're done unless you put the heat shrink on it. I've got planes all over D4 that I've sold that literally have thousands of flights on them without a hitch. If you come to any D4 contests this year, seek me out and I'll show you at least one example (my current plane) and up to four others depending on who shows up with one of my old planes.

Verne

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I plan on attending a couple of D4 events this year and I'll be sure to look you up. Thanks for the tip!

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

OK I tried it nd I didn't even set my plane on fire. Just curious, how tight do you guys make the strings? I just have them snugged up. I didn't tighten them to the point where they sound like a well tuned guitar, more like an out of tune one.

VerneK

An out of tune guitar sounds just about right as long as you're actually getting a note when you twang it. If it sounds good enough that you want to launch into some Clapton or Hendrix, you've gone too far...

Verne

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

I have one of the Verne planes and can attest to how well the twist and melt works. If you go to a D4 contest you'll think that yellow blue and white with red lettering are the D4 colors.
Verne, could you reenlighten me on where to get the bearings for the Hobby City linkages? I have a bunch of the H.C stuff but the bearings are a little sloppy.
RC

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Verne....

Yeah it twangs just not that real tight twang. I made them very tight before but I think that caused too much side load on the servo. I thought I'd try a little softer pull.

Again, Thanks for the tip,

VerneK

Hi Rick,
I replied to your e-mail - guess it didn't go through. I have no idea on the bearings. I had a few MK clevises from a crashed plane and popped the bearings out and put them in the Hobby City links. It was a big improvement and those links will be used on the rudder cables on my new Xigris. BTW, rudder cables are the only place I use ball bearing links. The 2mm screw that goes through the ball bearing isn't a perfect fit. It doesn't matter on rudder cables because they're under constant tension.

For elevator and aileron, I use ball links which are slop-free. I used to use ball bearing links there but couldn't stand the clicking sound at neutral from the screw moving in the bearing. I recall researching replacement bearings one time and deciding they were cost prohibitive. I recollect them being about $4 each. Let me know if you find something of quality that's cheaper.

BTW, my new Xigris will have the same colors, but a different scheme on the wings and stab. I'm starting to get worried about flying at the same time as one of my former planes. Mass confusion!!!!

Verne

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks Verne. Maybe some of the slop is from an undersised screw? I take another look and see exactly where I get the slop.


Rick