Problem with CellPro Charger
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Problem with CellPro Charger
One of my CellPro charger gives error message NEG TERM. < 0
The message apears after pushing the Start Charge button.
When pushing the Start buttom "Wait..." message apears for about 2 min. then message come "NEG TERM. < 0"
Message apears regardless if Pack is connected or not.
Did anyone expirianced this? I got no response from provider and anyway I try to save the cost of shiping it to and fro.
Thank you in advace
Amram Leshed
The message apears after pushing the Start Charge button.
When pushing the Start buttom "Wait..." message apears for about 2 min. then message come "NEG TERM. < 0"
Message apears regardless if Pack is connected or not.
Did anyone expirianced this? I got no response from provider and anyway I try to save the cost of shiping it to and fro.
Thank you in advace
Amram Leshed
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RE: Problem with CellPro Charger
Attached is the manual, in the troubleshooting section (page 18) it says that the black banana jack is reading below 0 volts.....I'm guessing it's the wire itself, maybe a bad soldier joint.
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RE: Problem with CellPro Charger
I get the error regardless type of pack I try to charge. Moreover, same maessage comes even if no pack is connected
Amram
Amram
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RE: Problem with CellPro Charger
If you are using the outside jacks for the main leads, check to make sure there is continuity between the 2 center jacks. If there isn't any continuity, the fuse between the two center jacks is faulty. There is a thread around here somewhere about how to replace it with a common automotive fuse.
Woodie
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RE: Problem with CellPro Charger
WRITTEN ELSEWHERE BY WOODI WATTSUP:
There are 2 common problems with the CellPro 10S charger. As Tony mentioned, the external fuse contacts can get loose over time and actually melt the fuse as the contacts loosen and the amps/resistance climbs. I would suggest taking the top off the charger and ensure the clips holding the fuse are clean and tight.
Second, there is a fuse between the two center jacks on the top/front of the charger. Easy to test, just check resistance between the 2 center taps. If there is an open, that fuse is blown. If you look at the fuse, it looks more like a diode/resistor than a fuse but it is a fuse. If the fuse is open, you can replace it with an automotive type fuse. I can't recall what the fuse value is but will check and update this post.
That tiny fuse (diode/resistor looking) inside/between the center jacks is rated at 15 amps/125 volts and can be purchased at Radio Shack for less than $1. I
just had to replace mine, that's how I know! Everette
WILL CHECK THIS
There are 2 common problems with the CellPro 10S charger. As Tony mentioned, the external fuse contacts can get loose over time and actually melt the fuse as the contacts loosen and the amps/resistance climbs. I would suggest taking the top off the charger and ensure the clips holding the fuse are clean and tight.
Second, there is a fuse between the two center jacks on the top/front of the charger. Easy to test, just check resistance between the 2 center taps. If there is an open, that fuse is blown. If you look at the fuse, it looks more like a diode/resistor than a fuse but it is a fuse. If the fuse is open, you can replace it with an automotive type fuse. I can't recall what the fuse value is but will check and update this post.
That tiny fuse (diode/resistor looking) inside/between the center jacks is rated at 15 amps/125 volts and can be purchased at Radio Shack for less than $1. I
just had to replace mine, that's how I know! Everette
WILL CHECK THIS
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RE: Problem with CellPro Charger
Got official answer from FMA as follows:
Good Day,
You should check the following:
High Voltage - Diode Check, check continuity
D10 - If bad, replace and check U2 for damage
Output Section - Diode Check, check continuity
D15, D16 - If installed, remove. These parts are now DNI
Output Diode (Zenner) - Diode Check
D18 - .34 - .37 / counts up open - If bad, replace ***also check underside of CB for burnt traces if bad***
Micro Processor
U6 - Check pin 1 to ground, should read approx 44k. If bad, not worth fixing charger.
Switch FET's - Diode Check
Q15, Q16 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q1, Q2 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q11, Q12 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q5, Q6 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Zenner Diode Check - Diode Check
Q15 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D2
Q2 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D1
Q11 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D3
Shunt Check - Diode Check
Q33 - .45 = Good. If bad, replace
Power FET's - Diode Check
Q28 - .5 / Count up high (1.4) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Q29 - .17 / Count up high (1.6) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Regardless of changing components and getting it to work, you have no way to calibrate the charger. This will present a safety hazard and do not recommend this.
NOW I CAN GET TO WORK ON IT !!! :-)
_________________________
I added cool smileys to this message... if you don't see them go to: http://s.exps.me
Good Day,
You should check the following:
High Voltage - Diode Check, check continuity
D10 - If bad, replace and check U2 for damage
Output Section - Diode Check, check continuity
D15, D16 - If installed, remove. These parts are now DNI
Output Diode (Zenner) - Diode Check
D18 - .34 - .37 / counts up open - If bad, replace ***also check underside of CB for burnt traces if bad***
Micro Processor
U6 - Check pin 1 to ground, should read approx 44k. If bad, not worth fixing charger.
Switch FET's - Diode Check
Q15, Q16 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q1, Q2 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q11, Q12 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q5, Q6 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Zenner Diode Check - Diode Check
Q15 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D2
Q2 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D1
Q11 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D3
Shunt Check - Diode Check
Q33 - .45 = Good. If bad, replace
Power FET's - Diode Check
Q28 - .5 / Count up high (1.4) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Q29 - .17 / Count up high (1.6) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Regardless of changing components and getting it to work, you have no way to calibrate the charger. This will present a safety hazard and do not recommend this.
NOW I CAN GET TO WORK ON IT !!! :-)
_________________________
I added cool smileys to this message... if you don't see them go to: http://s.exps.me