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YS Header

Old 10-22-2014, 02:20 AM
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drac1
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Default YS Header

Hi Guys,

My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.

Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?

Advice appreciated.

Regards
Scott
Old 10-22-2014, 06:46 AM
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Tighten the header and then run the engine until it gets hot, re-tighten header while it's still hot. This has always worked for me.
Old 10-22-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by drac1
Hi Guys,

My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.

Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?

Advice appreciated.

Regards
Scott
Hi Scott,

On my gas engines' exhausts I use Loctite Ultra Copper high temp gasket maker. It has worked very well. But I don't know if it would work on the YS. Similar exhaust temps between the two types of engines. I would just add a thin layer to the nut, snug it down and let it cure for 24 hours.
Old 10-22-2014, 12:48 PM
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Hi Matt and Russmall. I've tried both of these suggestions. It works for awhile, but it still eventually comes loose.

Thanks.
Old 10-22-2014, 02:34 PM
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Are we talking about the bit that screws into the head or the two flanges that bolt together, or have you got the fancy one that tightens up with that big locking ring thingy?

For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
Old 10-22-2014, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bjr_93tz
Are we talking about the bit that screws into the head or the two flanges that bolt together, or have you got the fancy one that tightens up with that big locking ring thingy?

For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
Yeah it's the "fancy one" Brett. Lol.

The flange that screws into the head is fine. It's the big locking ring thingy that keeps coming loose.

I had to tighten it again yesterday, so I have logged the flight number and will see how many flights 'till it comes loose again. If I can get a consistent number of flights, I just may have check it before that number is up.
i suppose you could call it preventative maintenance.
Old 10-22-2014, 05:31 PM
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edwarda10pilot
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drac:
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.

Ed
Old 10-22-2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by edwarda10pilot
drac:
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.

Ed
Hi Ed,

Which header are you using? I think it may be different to the one I have. Can you post a photo?

The YS header has a copper washer that goes between the flange and head, (I use 2 washers here). The flange is threaded and has a female taper, the header has a male taper that fits in and is held on by a single castellated aluminium nut. These tapers match perfectly and seal when tightened. It's the aluminium nut that comes loose, not the flange in the head.

Last edited by drac1; 10-22-2014 at 05:55 PM.
Old 10-22-2014, 06:14 PM
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How about drilling holes in the bolt head and safety wiring it?
Old 10-22-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Quikturn
How about drilling holes in the bolt head and safety wiring it?
It doesn't have a bolt.
Old 10-22-2014, 09:40 PM
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Shame it's giving you trouble, they look really neat.
Old 10-22-2014, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bjr_93tz
Shame it's giving you trouble, they look really neat.
Yeah, it can be positioned any where and it's light.

I've always had the problem, but thought i'd ask here if anyone else has the same issue. Maybe it's the way I fit it, but there's only one way to do that.

Might just have to put up with it, work out how many flights I can do then tighten and tighten before every comp.
Old 10-23-2014, 04:45 AM
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drac1

Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.

Bryan
Old 10-23-2014, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by flyncajun
drac1

Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.

Bryan
Hi Bryan,

Thanks for the feed back. There is no split washer.

The mystery continues.

PS. How tight do you tighten the nut with the C spanner? Just by hand or tap it a bit?

Last edited by drac1; 10-23-2014 at 05:08 AM.
Old 10-23-2014, 05:51 AM
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drac

I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it

Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.

I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.

Bryan

Last edited by flyncajun; 10-23-2014 at 06:03 AM.
Old 10-23-2014, 06:11 AM
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They way I use the spanner wrench.

Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.

Regards

Alejandro
Old 10-23-2014, 07:59 AM
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shomenda
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All the problems I had with the fancy aluminum ringy thingy Y.S. header were a thing in the past after gobbling up as many of the old style Hatori headers I could find. Since I've switched to electric, don't have much use for anything (pattern) glow.

Steve
Old 10-23-2014, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Russmall
Tighten the header and then run the engine until it gets hot, re-tighten header while it's still hot. This has always worked for me.
Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 10-23-2014, 09:35 AM
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Teflon tape...Wrap the threads with Teflon tape. You can find it in the plumbers section at your choice of Loews or Home Depot...
Old 10-23-2014, 10:01 AM
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Sticking with glow. Don't want my house or car to burn down with lipo fires and only a 7 min run time.




Originally Posted by shomenda
All the problems I had with the fancy aluminum ringy thingy Y.S. header were a thing in the past after gobbling up as many of the old style Hatori headers I could find. Since I've switched to electric, don't have much use for anything (pattern) glow.

Steve
Old 10-23-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shomenda
All the problems I had with the fancy aluminum ringy thingy Y.S. header were a thing in the past after gobbling up as many of the old style Hatori headers I could find. Since I've switched to electric, don't have much use for anything (pattern) glow.

Steve
Hi Steve,

Are you saying you had the same problem?
Old 10-23-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by flyncajun
drac

I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it

Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.

I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.

Bryan
Hi Bryan,

It doesn't leak, just comes loose. I'll try your suggestions.

PM sent.
Old 10-23-2014, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by apereira
They way I use the spanner wrench.

Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.

Regards

Alejandro
Hi Alejandro,

With the engine in the plane, I support under the prop shaft and tap the spanner with a small hammer. It seems to get plenty tight enough, so can't explain why it comes loose.
Old 10-23-2014, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by flycatch
Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tried that flycatch. Thanks.
Old 10-23-2014, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by shepga
Teflon tape...Wrap the threads with Teflon tape. You can find it in the plumbers section at your choice of Loews or Home Depot...
Hi Mr Sheppard,

I've used hi temp silicon on the threads with no success. I have plenty of thread tape, so might try that.

Thanks.
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