YS Header
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
YS Header
Hi Guys,
My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.
Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?
Advice appreciated.
Regards
Scott
My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.
Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?
Advice appreciated.
Regards
Scott
#3
Senior Member
Hi Guys,
My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.
Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?
Advice appreciated.
Regards
Scott
My YS header keeps coming loose. I have tried different methods to try and stop it from loosening, but nothing has been completely effective.
Does any one else have this problem? Also, those of you that don't, what is the method you use to keep them tight?
Advice appreciated.
Regards
Scott
On my gas engines' exhausts I use Loctite Ultra Copper high temp gasket maker. It has worked very well. But I don't know if it would work on the YS. Similar exhaust temps between the two types of engines. I would just add a thin layer to the nut, snug it down and let it cure for 24 hours.
#5
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Are we talking about the bit that screws into the head or the two flanges that bolt together, or have you got the fancy one that tightens up with that big locking ring thingy?
For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
#6
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Are we talking about the bit that screws into the head or the two flanges that bolt together, or have you got the fancy one that tightens up with that big locking ring thingy?
For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
For the usual Hatori type, I make sure the flange tightens up on the copper washer rather than binding up in the threads and bolt the two bits together with the supplied screws and graphite gasket. I've never used the fancy one??
The flange that screws into the head is fine. It's the big locking ring thingy that keeps coming loose.
I had to tighten it again yesterday, so I have logged the flight number and will see how many flights 'till it comes loose again. If I can get a consistent number of flights, I just may have check it before that number is up.
i suppose you could call it preventative maintenance.
#7
My Feedback: (3)
drac:
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.
Ed
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.
Ed
#8
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
drac:
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.
Ed
I was wondering if you have the copper crush washer that goes between the header pipe and the head. This is the copper washer that absorbs the compression (much like the washer or an automobile spark plug) when the "nut" is tightened. I have found that if you do not use a washer or if you use an old washer then the header nut will loosen. I install a new copper crush washer, tighten everything down, run the engine, retighten when hot (tighten the nut IMMEDIATELY after engine shut down). I go thru three of these cycles and I have had hundreds of runs on my YS 140 and 160 without problems.
Ed
Which header are you using? I think it may be different to the one I have. Can you post a photo?
The YS header has a copper washer that goes between the flange and head, (I use 2 washers here). The flange is threaded and has a female taper, the header has a male taper that fits in and is held on by a single castellated aluminium nut. These tapers match perfectly and seal when tightened. It's the aluminium nut that comes loose, not the flange in the head.
Last edited by drac1; 10-22-2014 at 05:55 PM.
#12
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
Yeah, it can be positioned any where and it's light.
I've always had the problem, but thought i'd ask here if anyone else has the same issue. Maybe it's the way I fit it, but there's only one way to do that.
Might just have to put up with it, work out how many flights I can do then tighten and tighten before every comp.
I've always had the problem, but thought i'd ask here if anyone else has the same issue. Maybe it's the way I fit it, but there's only one way to do that.
Might just have to put up with it, work out how many flights I can do then tighten and tighten before every comp.
#13
drac1
Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.
Bryan
Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.
Bryan
#14
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
drac1
Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.
Bryan
Brett and I have many hundreds of flights on multiple YS headers and have never had a issue with them breaking, coming loose ect.
They are by far the best lightest and user friendly header out there.
It`s a shame you are having issues with it. I suspect there is something wrong with the taper nut.
One thing though, if it has a split washer inside the female taper nut ,take it out.
I`ve seen some come with this and they jam/tighten prematurely and will not let you tighten them properly.
Bryan
Thanks for the feed back. There is no split washer.
The mystery continues.
PS. How tight do you tighten the nut with the C spanner? Just by hand or tap it a bit?
Last edited by drac1; 10-23-2014 at 05:08 AM.
#15
drac
I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it
Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.
I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.
Bryan
I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it
Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.
I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.
Bryan
Last edited by flyncajun; 10-23-2014 at 06:03 AM.
#16
They way I use the spanner wrench.
Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.
Regards
Alejandro
Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.
Regards
Alejandro
#17
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All the problems I had with the fancy aluminum ringy thingy Y.S. header were a thing in the past after gobbling up as many of the old style Hatori headers I could find. Since I've switched to electric, don't have much use for anything (pattern) glow.
Steve
Steve
#20
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Sticking with glow. Don't want my house or car to burn down with lipo fires and only a 7 min run time.
#22
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
drac
I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it
Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.
I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.
Bryan
I use a 6" extender on the spanner wrench and bear down on it
Also ,YS has a new flange installer tool with three pins for the male side flange . On the single pin tool the lock pin will bend and distort the flange face and cause it not to seal correctly on the header face. Sometimes because of this, it will leak and not tighten correctly.
You can resurface it with some 400 wet sandpaper if that's the problem. I don't recommend the extender on the male flange to the engine because the washer takes care of the problem with keeping it tight and sealing the face.
I recommend getting the three pin installer it`s much better. Or drill and install your own pins like I did.
Bryan
It doesn't leak, just comes loose. I'll try your suggestions.
PM sent.
#23
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
They way I use the spanner wrench.
Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.
Regards
Alejandro
Hold the engine with one hand on the propeller shaft put the spanner parallel to the shaft and tighten the nut, try to use one hand to push the spanner and pull the shaft at the same time until you can't move it, this way I never got it to get loose. Also this method do not put any stress on the airframe, so even if you use a lot of force you won't break anything.
Regards
Alejandro
With the engine in the plane, I support under the prop shaft and tap the spanner with a small hammer. It seems to get plenty tight enough, so can't explain why it comes loose.