YS user seeking sympathetic ears :(
#76
My Feedback: (4)
So in order to sum it up oilwise, the appropriate oil for the 185CDI is 50/50 coolpower blue and red,
not green and red. Kind of fuels we can get here, mix them and dilute accordingly with methanol and nitro. The local distributor does not bring Morgan oil, just fuels.
What is the 200, new YS? any specs?
Thanks and no worries
not green and red. Kind of fuels we can get here, mix them and dilute accordingly with methanol and nitro. The local distributor does not bring Morgan oil, just fuels.
What is the 200, new YS? any specs?
Thanks and no worries
No specs or info on the YS200. I'll find out when it arrives.
Last edited by drac1; 03-27-2017 at 11:34 PM.
#78
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The cam gear bearing is the bugger, the one in the cap comes out just fine with heat and a quick tap, but I always find myself bending up different shape pieces of wire and other oddments to get the crankcase one out. I've vowed to make up a tool but I'm just to lazy.
!!
Arnstein
#83
I use three feeler gauges. A .002, .003 & .004 because that is what's in my set!
The trick I've found is to have one of the gauges right at the split in the ring. Not critical have the gauges exactly 120 degrees apart. The steel lets the ring slide right into place by not letting the ring ends catch on the crankcase. Two gauges will work but three seems to work a little better. I remove the gauges from the set in case anybody is wondering. You can also buy shim stock in sheets. Maybe the thing to do would to buy a sheet of .002 or .003 and roll a full circle around the inside of the case. OR buy the YS tool.
Ken
The trick I've found is to have one of the gauges right at the split in the ring. Not critical have the gauges exactly 120 degrees apart. The steel lets the ring slide right into place by not letting the ring ends catch on the crankcase. Two gauges will work but three seems to work a little better. I remove the gauges from the set in case anybody is wondering. You can also buy shim stock in sheets. Maybe the thing to do would to buy a sheet of .002 or .003 and roll a full circle around the inside of the case. OR buy the YS tool.
Ken
#84
I made these tools some years ago....
The ring is for YS crankshafts that have a ring. This ring is cut from a brass sink drainpipe....I just knew I would find a use for it!!
The other tool is 5/32" music wire with a slot ground to the depth of the inner race of the cam bearings.
There is a wheel collar mounted up the wire out of the picture that is used as a stopper for a slide weight (a piece of maple wood with a 5/32" hole)
To use....insert the wire through the hole in the maple block...then insert the tool through the inner race of the cam bearing (in the crankcase)
Then using a tool....slam upward on the maple block to remove the bearing.
The ring is for YS crankshafts that have a ring. This ring is cut from a brass sink drainpipe....I just knew I would find a use for it!!
The other tool is 5/32" music wire with a slot ground to the depth of the inner race of the cam bearings.
There is a wheel collar mounted up the wire out of the picture that is used as a stopper for a slide weight (a piece of maple wood with a 5/32" hole)
To use....insert the wire through the hole in the maple block...then insert the tool through the inner race of the cam bearing (in the crankcase)
Then using a tool....slam upward on the maple block to remove the bearing.
Last edited by Dave Harmon; 03-28-2017 at 04:01 PM.
#87
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Maybe to do more interstate comps where there may still be YS (or even IC) users around. Up here I haven't seen a YS engine since the Nationals in Brisbane and before then it had been a while.
Now, I would ask John Payne for some friendly advise but I can already hear him from my office bellowing out "Let me tell you something about YS engines"
Now, I would ask John Payne for some friendly advise but I can already hear him from my office bellowing out "Let me tell you something about YS engines"
#88
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Maybe to do more interstate comps where there may still be YS (or even IC) users around. Up here I haven't seen a YS engine since the Nationals in Brisbane and before then it had been a while.
Now, I would ask John Payne for some friendly advise but I can already hear him from my office bellowing out "Let me tell you something about YS engines"
Now, I would ask John Payne for some friendly advise but I can already hear him from my office bellowing out "Let me tell you something about YS engines"
The Brisbane Nats was an excellent comp, it's 's one of best comps I've competed in. I placed third in F3A as well, which was great.
There's only a few YS drivers around these days and I can't remember the last time I saw a 2 stroke compete. It would be good to see you at some of the other states comps sometime.
Be sure you have a couple of hours to spare if you intend speaking with John
#89
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I'm happy to say that after nearly two years (on and off) of pulling my hair out, the engine is finally back to it former self and running as it should. The final piece in the puzzle (lack of midrange) was that even though it was running well, the regulator was still too lean.
I picked up a bottle of coolpower MV purple oil and have run through about four litres of 30% nitro 15% oil. Whatever is going on compression and ignition wise at the moment, you can richen up the regulator and needle with impunity and it's burning it without question, billowing out smoke galore and hauling that plane around the sky like it's attached to a huge bungie cord. The tuning range on the main needle is quiet broad now.
I can't say the engine picked up any significant RPM on the purple oil compared to the blue. Once everything beds in I'll probably drop the oil back to 10% although I don't mind the oil on the bottom of the plane.
Just for comparison I run an APC 18.5x12WPN cut back to 18".
on 20% nitro 10% coolpower blue ~7,250rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower blue ~7,650rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower purple ~7,650rpm
The extra 400rpm on the 30% fuel is very noticeable, and so is the increase in fuel consumption.
Finally back to practicing flying again, rather than practicing take-offs and landings. Thanks to all the posters for their advice and support.
I picked up a bottle of coolpower MV purple oil and have run through about four litres of 30% nitro 15% oil. Whatever is going on compression and ignition wise at the moment, you can richen up the regulator and needle with impunity and it's burning it without question, billowing out smoke galore and hauling that plane around the sky like it's attached to a huge bungie cord. The tuning range on the main needle is quiet broad now.
I can't say the engine picked up any significant RPM on the purple oil compared to the blue. Once everything beds in I'll probably drop the oil back to 10% although I don't mind the oil on the bottom of the plane.
Just for comparison I run an APC 18.5x12WPN cut back to 18".
on 20% nitro 10% coolpower blue ~7,250rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower blue ~7,650rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower purple ~7,650rpm
The extra 400rpm on the 30% fuel is very noticeable, and so is the increase in fuel consumption.
Finally back to practicing flying again, rather than practicing take-offs and landings. Thanks to all the posters for their advice and support.
#90
My Feedback: (4)
I'm happy to say that after nearly two years (on and off) of pulling my hair out, the engine is finally back to it former self and running as it should. The final piece in the puzzle (lack of midrange) was that even though it was running well, the regulator was still too lean.
I picked up a bottle of coolpower MV purple oil and have run through about four litres of 30% nitro 15% oil. Whatever is going on compression and ignition wise at the moment, you can richen up the regulator and needle with impunity and it's burning it without question, billowing out smoke galore and hauling that plane around the sky like it's attached to a huge bungie cord. The tuning range on the main needle is quiet broad now.
I can't say the engine picked up any significant RPM on the purple oil compared to the blue. Once everything beds in I'll probably drop the oil back to 10% although I don't mind the oil on the bottom of the plane.
Just for comparison I run an APC 18.5x12WPN cut back to 18".
on 20% nitro 10% coolpower blue ~7,250rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower blue ~7,650rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower purple ~7,650rpm
The extra 400rpm on the 30% fuel is very noticeable, and so is the increase in fuel consumption.
Finally back to practicing flying again, rather than practicing take-offs and landings. Thanks to all the posters for their advice and support.
I picked up a bottle of coolpower MV purple oil and have run through about four litres of 30% nitro 15% oil. Whatever is going on compression and ignition wise at the moment, you can richen up the regulator and needle with impunity and it's burning it without question, billowing out smoke galore and hauling that plane around the sky like it's attached to a huge bungie cord. The tuning range on the main needle is quiet broad now.
I can't say the engine picked up any significant RPM on the purple oil compared to the blue. Once everything beds in I'll probably drop the oil back to 10% although I don't mind the oil on the bottom of the plane.
Just for comparison I run an APC 18.5x12WPN cut back to 18".
on 20% nitro 10% coolpower blue ~7,250rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower blue ~7,650rpm
on 30% nitro 15% coolpower purple ~7,650rpm
The extra 400rpm on the 30% fuel is very noticeable, and so is the increase in fuel consumption.
Finally back to practicing flying again, rather than practicing take-offs and landings. Thanks to all the posters for their advice and support.
Glad to hear it's all sorted. Time to practise.
I used to run the 19 x11 on my 170cdi with 30 nitro. It flew really well with that prop.
The cdi's have huge mid range torque, so you don't need to rev them hard. I aim for around 7k, but 7200 or less is good. My 185's do around 6900.
Lower revs keep the noise down as well. My Xareltoo was noise tested at the Australian Masters/World Cup Event last month. It is 88db and my Valiant is 87db. The first time I have had my planes checked, so was extremely happy with that. The contras were around 90db and one only just passed the 94db limit.
I used a full 4 litre bottle on Sunday, which is 16 flights and didn't wipe underneath until packing up. There was just a smear of oil, one swipe and it was gone. 10% oil.
#91
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I've got a 19x11 but never mounted it. I saw one go once and it looked like it was struggling, and I still had the original Oxai legs on and even 18" diameter was pushing it clearance wise.
With the Falcon legs and 30% nitro it can't hurt to bolt it up and see what it does?
With the Falcon legs and 30% nitro it can't hurt to bolt it up and see what it does?
#92
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I've got a 19x11 but never mounted it. I saw one go once and it looked like it was struggling, and I still had the original Oxai legs on and even 18" diameter was pushing it clearance wise.
With the Falcon legs and 30% nitro it can't hurt to bolt it up and see what it does?
With the Falcon legs and 30% nitro it can't hurt to bolt it up and see what it does?
I ran it on the Valiant when it was over weight. Don't remember it struggling.
Won't know if you don't try
From memory it was pulling low 7's.
Last edited by drac1; 04-04-2017 at 01:41 AM.
#93
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Another thing Brett, is the cdi's fly different than glow. You don't need vertical ballistic high rpm power. You want a bigger prop at lower rpm to make use of the mid range torque. Once in a vertical, just set the throttle at 3/4's and let the torque do its thing. This helps for constant speed too.
#94
Hello guys,
Brett, happy you fixed it.
I have always used CP 30% Heli too, one of the best fuels for the YS ever, but Cosmo BlackPower had better transition, so fuel affects the transition for sure, used also Byron Gen II and worked very well, but better on PowerMater, since VP Fuels took over, I immediately felt the difference, did not like it, and had to sell lots of gallons. I will try Rapicon as I moved to Spain now, and if Christophe an Scott uses it should be good hehe.
I also have an Amethyst with a Hacker motor, so actually can fly both and experiment the difference, really if electric was that much better, I will be flying electric only, but cannot get away from YS, specially, at the end of the day, making a flight with no clouds and no wind.....uffffff, no electric comes close to the feeling..
One thing on the valves, a lot of people get the clearance too tight in hot enviroments, just make sure there is clearance so when the engine is hot, the valves do not leak as they are pushed open.
Regaras
Brett, happy you fixed it.
I have always used CP 30% Heli too, one of the best fuels for the YS ever, but Cosmo BlackPower had better transition, so fuel affects the transition for sure, used also Byron Gen II and worked very well, but better on PowerMater, since VP Fuels took over, I immediately felt the difference, did not like it, and had to sell lots of gallons. I will try Rapicon as I moved to Spain now, and if Christophe an Scott uses it should be good hehe.
I also have an Amethyst with a Hacker motor, so actually can fly both and experiment the difference, really if electric was that much better, I will be flying electric only, but cannot get away from YS, specially, at the end of the day, making a flight with no clouds and no wind.....uffffff, no electric comes close to the feeling..
One thing on the valves, a lot of people get the clearance too tight in hot enviroments, just make sure there is clearance so when the engine is hot, the valves do not leak as they are pushed open.
Regaras
Last edited by apereira; 04-04-2017 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Typo
#95
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#96
#99
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Nice video, but I must admit I was cringing a bit when the hammer was doing it's thing and the cam cover was bouncing around. You'd want a good solid support to bash up against to get the bearing out of the crankcase.
Flywilly, I've still got one of those Dave Shadel Hanno piston and liner sets you organised way back, but the current piston and liner is still hanging in there so I haven't needed to use it yet. I fitted a 140RX pump to the Hanno to replace the leaky original..
Flywilly, I've still got one of those Dave Shadel Hanno piston and liner sets you organised way back, but the current piston and liner is still hanging in there so I haven't needed to use it yet. I fitted a 140RX pump to the Hanno to replace the leaky original..
#100
My Feedback: (121)
Hi Brett,
The original Hanno piston/liner should be good for at least 400 flights and possibly many more depending upon how 'hard' you are running the engine. The new set will last for easily 1,000 flights. I've never had a pump problem (yet) and I have some spares in various conditions, too.
What are you flying the Hanno in?
-Will
The original Hanno piston/liner should be good for at least 400 flights and possibly many more depending upon how 'hard' you are running the engine. The new set will last for easily 1,000 flights. I've never had a pump problem (yet) and I have some spares in various conditions, too.
What are you flying the Hanno in?
-Will