YS DZ200cdi
09-28-2018, 07:39 PM
#177
09-28-2018, 11:33 PM
#178
Morris Hobbies have them listed as discontinued.
I can't ever recall Naruke selling them?
The only muffler Hobbynet have listed is the 725 for 90 0-110 engines.
Anything you see anywhere, would be run out stock only.
09-29-2018, 03:20 AM
#179
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: RESHON LEZIYYON, ISRAEL
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Hello
Problem with my engine:
engine 200 cdi , prop 21.5x10.5 , fuel morgan cool power 30% heli
main needle open 1 1/4, The regulator is slightly open half a turn from manufacturer mode
On the ground everything is fine , mex rpm 7000 , idel 2000 rpm
In the air when I rise above half throttle , hear a loud, strange noise like detontions
And I also see that there is a mismatch in the smoke ,
Do you have suggestions what to do ?
thanks
Kobi
Problem with my engine:
engine 200 cdi , prop 21.5x10.5 , fuel morgan cool power 30% heli
main needle open 1 1/4, The regulator is slightly open half a turn from manufacturer mode
On the ground everything is fine , mex rpm 7000 , idel 2000 rpm
In the air when I rise above half throttle , hear a loud, strange noise like detontions
And I also see that there is a mismatch in the smoke ,
Do you have suggestions what to do ?
thanks
Kobi
09-29-2018, 03:51 AM
#180
[QUOTE=kobi;12466703]
Try a new ignition module.
Hello
Problem with my engine:
engine 200 cdi , prop 21.5x10.5 , fuel morgan cool power 30% heli
main needle open 1 1/4, The regulator is slightly open half a turn from manufacturer mode
On the ground everything is fine , mex rpm 7000 , idel 2000 rpm
In the air when I rise above half throttle , hear a loud, strange noise like detonations
And I also see that there is a mismatch in the smoke ,
Do you have suggestions what to do ?
thanks
Kobi
Problem with my engine:
engine 200 cdi , prop 21.5x10.5 , fuel morgan cool power 30% heli
main needle open 1 1/4, The regulator is slightly open half a turn from manufacturer mode
On the ground everything is fine , mex rpm 7000 , idel 2000 rpm
In the air when I rise above half throttle , hear a loud, strange noise like detonations
And I also see that there is a mismatch in the smoke ,
Do you have suggestions what to do ?
thanks
Kobi
/QUOTE]
Try a new ignition module.
09-29-2018, 04:52 AM
#181
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: RESHON LEZIYYON, ISRAEL
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Why do you think there is a problem with the ignition unit, is it possible that the ignition will only cause problems in the air?
.I also do not have another ignition unit
.I also do not have another ignition unit
09-29-2018, 11:30 AM
#183
Join Date: Feb 2005
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Make sure your spark plug connector is seated properly & tight on the plug, it happens to me a few times when I was running cdi on my 175's. Also, condition & gap clearance of the plug.
Just a suggestion.
Adrian
Just a suggestion.
Adrian
09-29-2018, 10:07 PM
#186
Hello Kobi
May be that help you
In Argentina WC 2017
Cedric Carayon had engine spluttering. Mr Yamada changed the plug and ignition with no improvement.
Mr Yamada then pointed to the Power box switch. He changed that and the engine ran perfect. This is in line with what I stated earlier in the thread. So maybe a separate line directly from the battery is the way to go.
May be that help you
In Argentina WC 2017
Cedric Carayon had engine spluttering. Mr Yamada changed the plug and ignition with no improvement.
Mr Yamada then pointed to the Power box switch. He changed that and the engine ran perfect. This is in line with what I stated earlier in the thread. So maybe a separate line directly from the battery is the way to go.
10-02-2018, 04:09 AM
#189
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Thanks friends
problem solved
The silicone tube I attached to the silencer was too long and soft
And each time I lifted the throttle over the half, the tube folded and blocked the smoke exit
This is also why there were breaks in the smoke
I changed the tube to thicker
And now the engine works great, loads of power, two clicks above half throttle gives a vertical climb that did not stop
I attach pictures of the defective tube
kobi
(the Engine replaced to 200 cdi , old sticker)
Last edited by kobi; 10-02-2018 at 04:16 AM.
10-02-2018, 04:23 AM
#190
Thanks friends
problem solved
The silicone tube I attached to the silencer was too long and soft
And each time I lifted the throttle over the half, the tube folded and blocked the smoke exit
This is also why there were breaks in the smoke
I changed the tube to thicker
And now the engine works great, loads of power, two clicks above half throttle gives a vertical climb that did not stop
I attach pictures of the defective tube
kobi
(the Engine replaced to 200 cdi , old sticker)
10-02-2018, 02:47 PM
#191
Hello Kobi
May be that help you
In Argentina WC 2017
Cedric Carayon had engine spluttering. Mr Yamada changed the plug and ignition with no improvement.
Mr Yamada then pointed to the Power box switch. He changed that and the engine ran perfect. This is in line with what I stated earlier in the thread. So maybe a separate line directly from the battery is the way to go.
May be that help you
In Argentina WC 2017
Cedric Carayon had engine spluttering. Mr Yamada changed the plug and ignition with no improvement.
Mr Yamada then pointed to the Power box switch. He changed that and the engine ran perfect. This is in line with what I stated earlier in the thread. So maybe a separate line directly from the battery is the way to go.
10-17-2018, 02:19 PM
#192
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
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I finally got around to putting my 200cdi into the Aries 07 and the weather cleared up enough to take it out to the field and put about a liter of fuel through it on the ground.
It was a bit cranky at first and I had to lean the regulator quite a bit (0.8mm out from flush). It got better and I quickly found a happy throttle position where it was revving free, belching smoke and generally leaving a big puddle of oil underneath. I've closed the break-in needle to 1/4 turn now and might take it up for a spin after another tank.
With regard to the prop slippage, apart from breaking-my-arm-off tight I've put a 0.7mm annealed aluminium washer between my new spinner back plate and prop driver to give them both something a bit softer to "bite" into. I've also pulled the spinner about 4 times now (after the initial start and during break-in) and nipped up the prop nut as the washer/spinner/propdriver settles in. Each time it has needed a bit of a nip up so something is gradually squishing into shape. Prop hasn't moved from it's initial marks, so far so good...
It was a bit cranky at first and I had to lean the regulator quite a bit (0.8mm out from flush). It got better and I quickly found a happy throttle position where it was revving free, belching smoke and generally leaving a big puddle of oil underneath. I've closed the break-in needle to 1/4 turn now and might take it up for a spin after another tank.
With regard to the prop slippage, apart from breaking-my-arm-off tight I've put a 0.7mm annealed aluminium washer between my new spinner back plate and prop driver to give them both something a bit softer to "bite" into. I've also pulled the spinner about 4 times now (after the initial start and during break-in) and nipped up the prop nut as the washer/spinner/propdriver settles in. Each time it has needed a bit of a nip up so something is gradually squishing into shape. Prop hasn't moved from it's initial marks, so far so good...
10-17-2018, 03:20 PM
#193
I finally got around to putting my 200cdi into the Aries 07 and the weather cleared up enough to take it out to the field and put about a liter of fuel through it on the ground.
It was a bit cranky at first and I had to lean the regulator quite a bit (0.8mm out from flush). It got better and I quickly found a happy throttle position where it was revving free, belching smoke and generally leaving a big puddle of oil underneath. I've closed the break-in needle to 1/4 turn now and might take it up for a spin after another tank.
With regard to the prop slippage, apart from breaking-my-arm-off tight I've put a 0.7mm annealed aluminium washer between my new spinner back plate and prop driver to give them both something a bit softer to "bite" into. I've also pulled the spinner about 4 times now (after the initial start and during break-in) and nipped up the prop nut as the washer/spinner/propdriver settles in. Each time it has needed a bit of a nip up so something is gradually squishing into shape. Prop hasn't moved from it's initial marks, so far so good...
It was a bit cranky at first and I had to lean the regulator quite a bit (0.8mm out from flush). It got better and I quickly found a happy throttle position where it was revving free, belching smoke and generally leaving a big puddle of oil underneath. I've closed the break-in needle to 1/4 turn now and might take it up for a spin after another tank.
With regard to the prop slippage, apart from breaking-my-arm-off tight I've put a 0.7mm annealed aluminium washer between my new spinner back plate and prop driver to give them both something a bit softer to "bite" into. I've also pulled the spinner about 4 times now (after the initial start and during break-in) and nipped up the prop nut as the washer/spinner/propdriver settles in. Each time it has needed a bit of a nip up so something is gradually squishing into shape. Prop hasn't moved from it's initial marks, so far so good...
Being soft, you'll most likely find the copper washer will keep squashing if you keep tightening it.
10-17-2018, 03:42 PM
#194
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Yes Scott, up in the air for some rolling practice and mixture tweaking is definitely on the cards.
EDIT: Flight #1 done and dusted. Thunderstorm clouds all around, wind blowing 30+km/hr and traffic on the highway 300m away meant it was ~7 minutes of guessing if the engine was still running.
EDIT: Flight #1 done and dusted. Thunderstorm clouds all around, wind blowing 30+km/hr and traffic on the highway 300m away meant it was ~7 minutes of guessing if the engine was still running.
Last edited by bjr_93tz; 10-18-2018 at 03:01 PM.
10-23-2018, 12:43 PM
#195
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If I've learned anything from my 8 year love/hate relationship with my 170cdi, it's that when there's nothing wrong with the engine it responds predictably and consistently to needle and regulator adjustments and is a pleasure to use. When there's something not right with the engine, you can spend as much time as you want chasing needle and regulator settings and occasionally hope that you'll get a dead stick in a bad spot so you can write your plane off and enjoy the rest of your day doing something else.
Guess which kind of a day I had with the 200cdi yesterday?
It does respond properly to needle adjustments so that's a positive, but it's running super lean around 1/4 throttle and enriching the regulator turns the idle into a slobbering, vibrating mess. Setting the break-in needle to 1/4 turn, 1/6th or fully closed hasn't helped with finding a consistent setting. If I had to guess I'd say it was sucking air somewhere at 1/4 throttle, or sucking too much fuel at dead idle?? Either way it's back to spending my time trying to sort out an engine rather than actually practicing flying...
Edit: Ever the optimist and given a day to mull things over, I've stripped the fuel system and flushed it inside-out and back-to-front and found nothing obvious. Valve clearances were 0.16mm exhaust, 0.15mm intake, so they've been set to ~0.05mm. Spark plug is ~0.35mm and regulator set to ~0.5mm out from flush. Got a day off work tomorrow so fingers crossed...
Guess which kind of a day I had with the 200cdi yesterday?
It does respond properly to needle adjustments so that's a positive, but it's running super lean around 1/4 throttle and enriching the regulator turns the idle into a slobbering, vibrating mess. Setting the break-in needle to 1/4 turn, 1/6th or fully closed hasn't helped with finding a consistent setting. If I had to guess I'd say it was sucking air somewhere at 1/4 throttle, or sucking too much fuel at dead idle?? Either way it's back to spending my time trying to sort out an engine rather than actually practicing flying...
Edit: Ever the optimist and given a day to mull things over, I've stripped the fuel system and flushed it inside-out and back-to-front and found nothing obvious. Valve clearances were 0.16mm exhaust, 0.15mm intake, so they've been set to ~0.05mm. Spark plug is ~0.35mm and regulator set to ~0.5mm out from flush. Got a day off work tomorrow so fingers crossed...
Last edited by bjr_93tz; 10-24-2018 at 01:14 AM.
10-25-2018, 03:04 PM
#196
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Quick Update seeing as I can no longer edit previous post: No joy with the engine, however very happy with the 0.7mm annealed aluminium washer between the spinner pack plate and prop driver. The washer has confirmed to the spinner backplate knurl and it's seems fairly stuck there, and the knurl pattern of the prop driver in the washer is very neat and crisp indicating no slippage despite 2 hrs of (wildly at times) random forces currently being transmitted to the prop.
Impression from the prop driver is neat and crisp.
Impression from the prop driver is neat and crisp.
10-25-2018, 04:21 PM
#197
Join Date: Jan 2009
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It sounds to me like your engine is sucking air from somewhere .
This is very hard to isolate so my advice would be since you stripped the engine down change all the seals ,gaskets and hoses...NB the injector hose should be checked regularly this one is very important
Make sure your engine mount is not loose........the vibration can upset the fuel flow.
It is important to use good quality Methanol to avoid cavitation in the pump when the engine gets hot
Hope this helps....... please let us know how you go
regards
This is very hard to isolate so my advice would be since you stripped the engine down change all the seals ,gaskets and hoses...NB the injector hose should be checked regularly this one is very important
Make sure your engine mount is not loose........the vibration can upset the fuel flow.
It is important to use good quality Methanol to avoid cavitation in the pump when the engine gets hot
Hope this helps....... please let us know how you go
regards
11-19-2018, 03:25 AM
#198
Glow Pump Pressure
Hello Scott
I used fuel tank clunk with foam (as shown on picture).
Once foam broke and clogged durit. Since I use 2 tank with normal clunk. It's work very well.
To set up pump, I use a manometer installed as shown on picture.
It's awesome to control and adjust pressure pump.
At the iddle or when engine running only with starter, pressure must be 1,2 bar.
Claude
Once foam broke and clogged durit. Since I use 2 tank with normal clunk. It's work very well.
To set up pump, I use a manometer installed as shown on picture.
It's awesome to control and adjust pressure pump.
At the iddle or when engine running only with starter, pressure must be 1,2 bar.
Claude
: For the sake of those poor devils still using the YS 170 Glow
.Engihe well adjusted, idle1,800 RPM running with nose up
Fuel pressure at idle: 1.75 - 1.80 BAR