Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Mike,
Just some trivia you might get a kick out of. You sound like you've been around pattern for a while, so you'll get most of this, I'm sure.
You gave credit to Ron Chidgey for the design of the Typhoon, which is correct...but the lineage of the model goes a bit further back.
If you remember the EU-1 or EU-1a designed by Wayne Ulery for Dean Koger in the late 70s, early 80s, interesting plane, narrowly missed winning the nats a couple of times during the 'Dave Brown dynasty'. I saw them fly head to head in '79, I think, and personally, I like the EU-1 much better.
One of the next planes Wayne designed for Dean was powered by a Webra .61 belt reduced, turning about a 14 x 12 prop. I never read too much about it, but he flew it for several years, I believe. It was called the 'Vortex'.
On the plans for the earlier versions of the Chidgey 'Typhoon', if you look at the data panel, you'll see he calls it the 'MV-1 Typhoon'. I have it on reliable information (Tony Frackowiack, I'm pretty sure) that 'MV-1' stands for 'Modified Vortex 1'. Tony flew the Typhoon for a number of years, not sure what he flies now (turbines, I understand), and was in a position to know.
I enjoy history trivia, and thought you might like to know this too :-). Maybe yours should be the 'MV-2 Tempest', heh heh.
respects,
Dave
Just some trivia you might get a kick out of. You sound like you've been around pattern for a while, so you'll get most of this, I'm sure.
You gave credit to Ron Chidgey for the design of the Typhoon, which is correct...but the lineage of the model goes a bit further back.
If you remember the EU-1 or EU-1a designed by Wayne Ulery for Dean Koger in the late 70s, early 80s, interesting plane, narrowly missed winning the nats a couple of times during the 'Dave Brown dynasty'. I saw them fly head to head in '79, I think, and personally, I like the EU-1 much better.
One of the next planes Wayne designed for Dean was powered by a Webra .61 belt reduced, turning about a 14 x 12 prop. I never read too much about it, but he flew it for several years, I believe. It was called the 'Vortex'.
On the plans for the earlier versions of the Chidgey 'Typhoon', if you look at the data panel, you'll see he calls it the 'MV-1 Typhoon'. I have it on reliable information (Tony Frackowiack, I'm pretty sure) that 'MV-1' stands for 'Modified Vortex 1'. Tony flew the Typhoon for a number of years, not sure what he flies now (turbines, I understand), and was in a position to know.
I enjoy history trivia, and thought you might like to know this too :-). Maybe yours should be the 'MV-2 Tempest', heh heh.
respects,
Dave
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Hi Mike,
What are the mods you made to the chin cowl? Your pics show it flush mounted at the bottom; different from the origional T2K . . .
Everthing is about ready to cut balsa down here. Est. derlivery date is Sept 30.
How are the contests going? Have you changed over to the Mintor 170 yet?
What are the mods you made to the chin cowl? Your pics show it flush mounted at the bottom; different from the origional T2K . . .
Everthing is about ready to cut balsa down here. Est. derlivery date is Sept 30.
How are the contests going? Have you changed over to the Mintor 170 yet?
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Hi Rodney, I'll let you know about the contests in a couple of weeks, I've been burning a case a week for a couple of months now. This plane just keeps getting better. Hopefully so am I. Although maybe not enough to win, it's late in the season and my competition is TOUGH. They all have over a years practice on me right now, they'll be hard to take down.
The chin cowl is cut along the imprint line, then flush with the firewall. I then made a frame for both the cowl and chin out of lite ply. I used 2 small music wire pins to fasten it to the firewall, and a 4-40 screw just in front of the carb in the very front, just under the spinner. Works great. lasts forever.
As for the 3M. Well, my OS is working too good. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'll try the 3M again at a later date when it's not on my #1 competition bird. It has a learning curve to it, like every engine, and I need all the flying time I can get right now.
I like the logo Schpankme, but I think I liked the dragon one better.
A note about this plane after 150 flights: A little change changes a LOT, so if you get one flying and start dialing and tweaking, do it SLOWLY. Start with the numbers I give you and go from there, it's VERY close. As of this writing, there is still no rudder mix at all, but I do have about 4% of aileron differential just to smooth out the rolls a little. It will roll like lightning on high rates, so keep that in mind and use really strong centering servos to keep it smooth and locked on low rates. I used JR 9411SAs and they are working great.
More later, I gotta go fly!
-Mike
The chin cowl is cut along the imprint line, then flush with the firewall. I then made a frame for both the cowl and chin out of lite ply. I used 2 small music wire pins to fasten it to the firewall, and a 4-40 screw just in front of the carb in the very front, just under the spinner. Works great. lasts forever.
As for the 3M. Well, my OS is working too good. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'll try the 3M again at a later date when it's not on my #1 competition bird. It has a learning curve to it, like every engine, and I need all the flying time I can get right now.
I like the logo Schpankme, but I think I liked the dragon one better.
A note about this plane after 150 flights: A little change changes a LOT, so if you get one flying and start dialing and tweaking, do it SLOWLY. Start with the numbers I give you and go from there, it's VERY close. As of this writing, there is still no rudder mix at all, but I do have about 4% of aileron differential just to smooth out the rolls a little. It will roll like lightning on high rates, so keep that in mind and use really strong centering servos to keep it smooth and locked on low rates. I used JR 9411SAs and they are working great.
More later, I gotta go fly!
-Mike
#29
RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
The Dragon symbolizes power and excellence, valiancy and boldness, heroism and perseverance, nobility and divinity. A dragon overcomes obstacles until success is his. He is energetic, decisive, optimistic, intelligent and ambitious.
_________
Schpankme
_________
Schpankme
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Okay, away we go!
First up, I am going to demonstrate the fixed gear conversion for the Typhoon 2000, included in the tempest mods. If you follow the drawings for the mods, these pictures will make better sense. If you're building a T2K and just want a fixed gear, this is for you too.
You begin by incorporating a 1/4" piece of aircraft ply into the structure just behind F2. This piece should be about 3" from front to rear, and stretch all teh way to the fuselage sides, under the doublers for the front wing adjusters. You will have to extend the wing adjuster doublers to about 3 1/4", with a small lip at the rear to capture the block. The main block should rest completely from side to side, butted against F2, under the doublers and resting on top of the 1/4" stringers. See attached pics.
(cont)
First up, I am going to demonstrate the fixed gear conversion for the Typhoon 2000, included in the tempest mods. If you follow the drawings for the mods, these pictures will make better sense. If you're building a T2K and just want a fixed gear, this is for you too.
You begin by incorporating a 1/4" piece of aircraft ply into the structure just behind F2. This piece should be about 3" from front to rear, and stretch all teh way to the fuselage sides, under the doublers for the front wing adjusters. You will have to extend the wing adjuster doublers to about 3 1/4", with a small lip at the rear to capture the block. The main block should rest completely from side to side, butted against F2, under the doublers and resting on top of the 1/4" stringers. See attached pics.
(cont)
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
I use a Bolly F3A large gear. Cut it in half at the mounting flange.
Next, fabricate 2 spacer blocks that run between the stringers. These should be just over 1/2" wide, and about 3/16 thick. Put them in place, and sand them until you can lay a straight edge across the block with the gear in place, and the straight edge just barely clears the gear. By barely, I mean you couldn't get a credit card under there. When properly sanded for this clearance, glue in place with epoxy, taking care to rake the extra out from the corners as it squeezes out from under the spacer blocks. If it hardens, it will interfere with the gear. As you place the blocks, use the gear itself to help you locate the spacer blocks from front to rear. You want about a credit card's worth of clearance so it will slide in and out easily.
After the epoxy sets well, relieve the wood at the point where the gear will be inserted. Just use a small sanding drum, then a squared sanding stick to clean the corners.
(cont)
Next, fabricate 2 spacer blocks that run between the stringers. These should be just over 1/2" wide, and about 3/16 thick. Put them in place, and sand them until you can lay a straight edge across the block with the gear in place, and the straight edge just barely clears the gear. By barely, I mean you couldn't get a credit card under there. When properly sanded for this clearance, glue in place with epoxy, taking care to rake the extra out from the corners as it squeezes out from under the spacer blocks. If it hardens, it will interfere with the gear. As you place the blocks, use the gear itself to help you locate the spacer blocks from front to rear. You want about a credit card's worth of clearance so it will slide in and out easily.
After the epoxy sets well, relieve the wood at the point where the gear will be inserted. Just use a small sanding drum, then a squared sanding stick to clean the corners.
(cont)
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Now fabricate a bottom plate out of 3/16" aircraft ply. You can use 1/4" if you wish, but I have found 3/16 to be more than sufficient. Just don't make the mistake of using lite ply, or it's gonna suck to be you on your first landing.
Use epoxy and glue this piece on, and use a weight to make sure you have total contact. If you have gaps, it might seperate later.
(cont)
Use epoxy and glue this piece on, and use a weight to make sure you have total contact. If you have gaps, it might seperate later.
(cont)
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
After everything has cured, draw the outline of the inside edge of the spacer block. Also mark the location of the INSIDE edge of the pipe tunnel. Lastly, place your gear halves on top of the block and mark the edges of your gear block. You'll notice how close the pipe tunnel edge and the edge of the gear are: you'll have to dead center it with a drill later.
Now drill through the entire block at the center location of the spacer blocks, 4 across the front and 4 across the rear with a 3/32" drill. Be mindful of where your edges and pipe tunnel are, you don't want a head in the way! These are your pins, you will use #4x3/4" button head sheet metal screws. Install these screws with 2 hour epoxy (or just slow cure) but be sure and wipe off the excess epoxy. The points will barely protrude from the other side, but who cares, you can grind them flush if you wish.
(cont)
Now drill through the entire block at the center location of the spacer blocks, 4 across the front and 4 across the rear with a 3/32" drill. Be mindful of where your edges and pipe tunnel are, you don't want a head in the way! These are your pins, you will use #4x3/4" button head sheet metal screws. Install these screws with 2 hour epoxy (or just slow cure) but be sure and wipe off the excess epoxy. The points will barely protrude from the other side, but who cares, you can grind them flush if you wish.
(cont)
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Now install your gear. Place it so the top edge is just inside of the fuse side. Drill a hole for a 4-40 machine screw to pass through in the center of the area we marked. Just use one screw, it's only a locator pin and doesn't really bear any stress. Drop the screw through to hold the gear in place.
Now drill and tap 6/32 threads at 2 locations which will be under the fuse bottom, outboard of the pipe tunnel. Be careful they are far enough away from the sides that you can get the head of the screw on from the other side. Just drill and tap the wood, gear and all. DO NOT try and put blind nuts here. If you do, you're gonna hate life come final assembly. Just tap the block, add a couple drops of thin CA, and re-tap. Trust me, it's plenty.
Screw it all together and flip the fuse over. Now just epoxy in some triangle stock to the doublers and F2, and voila....one gear block from hell. Now remove the screws and gear, as teh actual screws will be installed from the top during final assembly.
If you manage to break one, be sure and tell me how you did it. I have literally seen one go in full throttle, disintegrate the plane, and the gear block was still in one piece with the gear. The rest of the plane was powder.
-Mike
Now drill and tap 6/32 threads at 2 locations which will be under the fuse bottom, outboard of the pipe tunnel. Be careful they are far enough away from the sides that you can get the head of the screw on from the other side. Just drill and tap the wood, gear and all. DO NOT try and put blind nuts here. If you do, you're gonna hate life come final assembly. Just tap the block, add a couple drops of thin CA, and re-tap. Trust me, it's plenty.
Screw it all together and flip the fuse over. Now just epoxy in some triangle stock to the doublers and F2, and voila....one gear block from hell. Now remove the screws and gear, as teh actual screws will be installed from the top during final assembly.
If you manage to break one, be sure and tell me how you did it. I have literally seen one go in full throttle, disintegrate the plane, and the gear block was still in one piece with the gear. The rest of the plane was powder.
-Mike
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Advanced search pulled it up...[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_418054/anchors_418054/mpage_1/key_meter%252Cplans/anchor/tm.htm#418054]2 Meter Plans[/link]
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
ORIGINAL: tph1
Mike, Did you cut any foam wings yet?
Mike, Did you cut any foam wings yet?
Now that it's all over and I won't be competing locally again until next season, I'll start back into a building frenzy very soon. I have one thing left to do, and then it's Tempest time for me.
Oh yeah, the answer? This plane rocks. I won every round, and I'm not that good. We had a STRONG crosswind and this thing just grooved, I didn't even fly the last round. So, I'll be seeing you all in advanced next year [8D] (Where I'm sure to get pounded, but it's where I should be I think).
-Mike
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Hi everyone
Is the tempest modification plans for the typhoon 2000 still avaialble for purchase. I have my typhoon plans already and are about to cut out all the parts on the cnc machine
Thanks
Troy
Is the tempest modification plans for the typhoon 2000 still avaialble for purchase. I have my typhoon plans already and are about to cut out all the parts on the cnc machine
Thanks
Troy
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
ORIGINAL: troyhm
Hi everyone
Is the tempest modification plans for the typhoon 2000 still avaialble for purchase. I have my typhoon plans already and are about to cut out all the parts on the cnc machine
Thanks
Troy
Hi everyone
Is the tempest modification plans for the typhoon 2000 still avaialble for purchase. I have my typhoon plans already and are about to cut out all the parts on the cnc machine
Thanks
Troy
-Mike
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Thanks Mike
Can you please tell me how much they are and the best way to be posted to australia. Is a money order ok for payment and please tell me where to send it to and who it should it be made out to.
Thanks
Troy
Can you please tell me how much they are and the best way to be posted to australia. Is a money order ok for payment and please tell me where to send it to and who it should it be made out to.
Thanks
Troy
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
See post # 4 in this thread for details. I'd suggest rolled, it's worth it. I think I've only sent out 3 folded.
-M
-M
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Hi Mike
Could you please send me a simple email when the money order arrives. I dont have very much confidence in the mail systems going from here to america.
Thanks Troy
Could you please send me a simple email when the money order arrives. I dont have very much confidence in the mail systems going from here to america.
Thanks Troy
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Thanks for the Great job you did on my Hydeaway! You got that wing tube location right where it needs to be! The Recomended location has TOO much Roll & Pitch coupling. plus this Balances better! For a guy who LOVES wood as much as you do you sure do Composits good!
Cameron Smith
Cameron Smith
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
No problem Cam, it's just good to see you back flying and having fun. Winning doesn't hurt either eh?
I'm just glad it came out as well as it did, heck it flies like a totally different plane than your first one. That Hydeaway ROCKS, it has to be one of the absolute best planes I've ever flown. We need to find you another for next year to match it! I hope you took notes of all the changes we did, cuz I didn't write anything down......
-Mike
I'm just glad it came out as well as it did, heck it flies like a totally different plane than your first one. That Hydeaway ROCKS, it has to be one of the absolute best planes I've ever flown. We need to find you another for next year to match it! I hope you took notes of all the changes we did, cuz I didn't write anything down......
-Mike
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RE: Typhoon 2000 (TEMPEST) modifications thread
Hi Mike
Got the wing teplates perfect. Cant wait to start building. Your original yellow tempester looks absloutely awesome hope mine looks and where near as good I will send you some pictures as i get started if you would like. I just got given some acrylic paints in heaps of different colors including a real nice peral blue. Just trying to see how they work with my airbrush.
Thanks
Troy
Got the wing teplates perfect. Cant wait to start building. Your original yellow tempester looks absloutely awesome hope mine looks and where near as good I will send you some pictures as i get started if you would like. I just got given some acrylic paints in heaps of different colors including a real nice peral blue. Just trying to see how they work with my airbrush.
Thanks
Troy