troyhm

Hi

I attached carbon fiber cloth to the balsawood then put some resin on followed by some peel ply to give it a really smooth surface and nice and shiny as well as being strong. The carbon fiber clothes comes in blue red yelloe and black. I have almost finishe one set in black and the other in blue.

Troy

HuaChu

Mike,

Is the item# C131, 0.007" from CST (carbon fabric) the one you used?

Thanks

Mike

sigk

Mike, here are the first construction pictures of the Tempest.
I would like to try to build this one light, so I have been spending quite some time trying out brown paper for covering. The results being promising I really want to have a go at it.
On my Typhoon, there wasn't much left of the formers after all the lightening holes I had to make so I just used build up formers for this one.

Sig

sigk

More

Dr. Robert

Ever get an urge to make an electric Tempest? I would use a Hacker C50 14 XL with a 22-12 APC. A 10S3P set of LiPo batteries (42 volts @ 45 amps at takeoff) gives me 16 lbs of thrust at 6000' altitude S. of Denver.

All mods would be in the fuselage - Extend the canopy hatch to front of plane for easy battery removal. Eliminate the pipe tunnel but put in some more cooling intakes. Put in cooling outlets in fuselage somewhere near the wing. Longer/lower landing gear so a 22-12 APC prop is well clear especially on landing. With virtualy no vibration twisting torque, lighten up some more in general due to the heavy battery load.

Robert

Erik Johansson

I thought about it, but then Mike told us about his new project.

I would use the AXI 5330/18, APC-E 20x11 - 20x13 and the TP 10s3p batteries. Thinking I might start with a Fliton Infinity 90 though with the slightly smaller AXI 5320/28 and 10s2p TP batteries turning an 18x12 APC-E.

We´ll see what happens when the time comes.

/Erik

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Well you'll be pleased to know I have an electric version in mind when I'm designing this thing. I'm severely toying with different construction methods, incorporating a lot of foam and composites. Especially if you monokote the plane, it should be quite simple to convert it to electric and make weight. The drawback is that the design has 900 square inches of wing, and if you push 11 lbs or 5k, it might be a little heavily wing loaded. That's not necessarily a bad thing in all respects, especially flying FAI or the like. All the same, I may offer a slightly larger wing and tail set just for electrics or even gas (yes I have that in mind too).

No sneak peeks yet, but the only person out there that has actually seen the drawings said it looks very Partner-ish. I didn't even realize it at the time I was drawing it up, but it does have a very sleek Partner like look to it, even maybe a large Hebert Storm or Patriot. It's not as large as a Partner and that was on purpose, but it's definitely larger than a Typhoon. About the size of a ZN Supreme with a much cleaner look to it. I think you guys will like this plane. I'm DYING to get the prototype built, I just brought the van home loaded from top to bottom with foam and just ordered over $500 worth of wood. I'm gonna be a busy little bee over the next few months and hope I have it ready by this spring or early summer. I'm going to have myself and one other person testing it, and we'll be putting it through everything imaginable. If it needs changes, it'll get them before anyone else ever sees it. I'm looking for the best plane I can make, period. No compromises.

The Tempest is an awesome plane, and I still have mine and fly it constantly. Over 500 flights and just getting better and better. I just hate the supply problems and that problem needs to die a horrible death SOON. For instance: you have this plane, it's Tuesday, and you mess up and drop something on the canopy and ruin it. You have a competition on Saturday. You call me and I next day you one, you now have a new canopy section on Wednesday. It's quick and easy to make up, so you're done and priming Wed night, paint it Thursday, and by Friday you're back in the air. In contrast, lose a canopy on a T2K and see what happens. Or a ZN supreme, or a Partner, etc etc. Of course you overseas guys won't be quite that fortunate, but it will still be much much quicker than with any other plane currently out there with a couple of notable exceptions.

Allright enough out of me, I have some foam to cut.

-Mike

PS the stock nomber for that carbon for the formers is from CST stock # C7240. [8D] Expensive but pretty and super light.

Jorgele

Hello Mike, what is the final weight of your plane, I know you are using the OS 140 RX, but i would like to know what prop and fuel are you using?

I would like to build one tempest !!!


Thanks

Jorge

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

Final weight is 10 lb 2 ozs dry. It could have easily been under 10, no doubt.

I'm using the OS 140RX, factory header, ES 2C140M80 c/f pipe at stock length, bolly 17.5x12 prop, cool power 15% nitro. Top end 8200, idle about 1400 all day long.

-Mike

Dr. Robert

Those new AXI motors are still vaporware over here. Hobby Lobby advertises Jan15 as the expected date. The amount of current drawn by them seems excessive. Wish HL would show the thrust. That big one might work in my 30 lb Sig Ercoupe instead of a G62.

Mike, I am thinking smaller not bigger. I would like to set 3 lbs to 5 lbs max weight with batteries. Maybe even a foamie version at ~1 lb. but same lines, just scaled back. I would like to run your Tempest into ModelCAD to see what it has to say. Do you still have plans available?

Robert

Erik Johansson

I don´t know what´s up with the data posted at HL, but Ales Zapletal who flew the 5330/18 at the EC said it draws 70 amps turning a 20x11 APC-E.

/Erik

troyhm

HI Robert

What is modelcad never heard of that one

Thanks

Troy

troyhm

Hi Everyone

I have nearly finished cutting out all the pieces for my tempest. I have cut out 2 full sets of everything and are almost ready to start construction. I arent as quick as some of you other guys. Can anyone tell me what sort of fuse jig they use or have built. I went to order one from gatorrc but shipping is way to much to Australia. I hope to have half the fuse complete by the end of the week. I had the wing ribs cnc by a friend they came out really good and it only cost me a slab of beer, couldnt go wrong.

Thanks

Troy

Dr. Robert

Troy,

Here is a review describing it. http://www.upperspace.com/press/ModelCAD.pdf I got an original ModelCAD version over 10 years ago, and it has been invaluable to me, as I prefer to scratch build all my planes. One of the programs in the set, Model Calc, lets me input the key parameters of an aircraft and then tells where the CG should be. I have already used it with estimates of size from Mike's Tempest pictures, and I know just where to put the CG. The WingMaster program draws the ribs or foam cutting templates for me. http://www.upperspace.com should take you to an offer to download a free trial copy. The latest version still works with DOS files I made of planes 10 years ago!

Robert

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

BTW yes, the Tempest mod drawings are still available, and always will be. I don't have them in cad, as I like to do my work on the table on a lot of things.

Looking good guys! When you build up that wing, post some pics will ya? I'm tied up in foam right now with this new plane. I'll probably end up doing the new one in both foam and built up, but for testing purposes foam saves a LOT of time.

-Mike

Scott Smith

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Mike,

When it comes time to sheeting all that foam, consider clamping the cores under a vacuum. It sure beats stacking weights!

Scott

sigk

I have finished adding the floor into the fuselage.
Trying to save some weight, I drilled lightening holes into it.

Sig

sigk

The bottom and the top of the fuselage will be foam, sheeted with brown paper and light fiber glass cloth in few places to add more strength.
I used wax paper in the off cuts and that gives a nice finish. Simple clamps makes it very easy to press the skin on.

Sig

sigk

The weight of the finished piece is 27 gr.
That is:
paper 8gr
foam 14gr
epoxy 5gr
It is surprisingly strong so it will be interesting to see how much the fuselage will weight and more importantly, if it will be strong enough !

Sig

Bob.R

My Feedback: (2)

Sig - the photos are great. Please keep them coming.

wladkummer

My Feedback: (7)

Great photos SigK. What kind of brown paper do you use? The kind we pack things? Like the Kraft (r) type? I´ll try to make the same with my design. I´d try to add a couple of foam bulkheads just to stiffen the structure a little bit since I tend to grab my planes at the top....

Wladimir

Schpankme

Sig,

I like your thoughts on removing weight from the structure via the use of lightening holes, considering you'll still need to build the pipe tunnel, a few additional holes on the fuse floor would be benifical ?

__________
Schpankme

sigk

Wladimir,
I use covering paper for painters, it's a recycled paper, stronger than the typical wrapping paper. It comes in different weights, but I am using paper from 85 gr/m2 to 136 gr/m2. I tried every kind of paper I could lay my hands on and choose this one because it was the strongest and also when I cover it with plastic film the foam doesn't show through.

Schpankme
Yes I would like to make it lighter, but this is the floor of the pipe tunnel. If I cut more holes I don't know if the paper would isolate the heat from the pipe.

Sig

troyhm

Hi Everyone

The wing on the tempest is moved up half an inch and fowards 1\4 inch to the front with one degree incidence. Do you just move the lite ply adjuster mounts 1/4 inch foward. How do you realign the gator wing adjustors correctly so that the wing has one degree of incidence

Thanks

Troy

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

ACCKKK!!!! No not 1 degree. .1 degree! As in 1/10th of one degree!

If you put a full degree of positive in this plane, you'll hate life. It'll enter an upright spin like glass, but it will have a WICKED pull to the canopy in a downline. Mine are .1 degree and the downlines are good but you really have to time the spin break correctly. It's all a trade off, but I'd much rather have it this way because the plane trims out easier. I do have a little positive incidence in the stab at this point, but couldn't tell you exactly how much. I'd suggest starting at 0 and tweak slowly from there during flight trimming. And only after the CG is established.

Nice pics Siggi, keep them coming! I'm interested to see how that technique turns out, because one day way down the road I'll be playing with electric power and I'm going to need every lightening technique I can find. That one looks neat, keep us posted.

Yes you need to move the ply braces for the adjusters forward about 1/4". Set the adjusters close to the bottom of the travel in front and top of travel in the rear, with about 3 threads left at .1 deg pos. This will allow you to dial down to absolute 0 or up to over 1/2 degree pos.

-Mike