NJRCFLYER2

My Feedback: (42)

Aerotrend now has a blue silicon coupler that works very well.

f3a05

[quote]Aerotrend now has a blue silicon coupler that works very well. [/quote

Thanks for that---tried to order from them but couldn't make their system work--perhaps because I'm in UK.
Tower seems not to stock it any more.

MarkGrabowski

Where do you guys procure your Depron at?

PatternPilot

My Feedback: (58)

Mark,

Shoot me a email at [email protected] I have cases of 3mm and 6mm Depron, I'll have to look might even have some 2mm..

I also have a CNC router table service if that is any interest to anyone.


Scott Anderson
Performance Model Aviation
Team Castle Creations
Team Tanicpacks.com

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Hey Mike,
what's wrong with Webras? I've run several UAV Bullys (1.20s & 1.45s) and been very happy with them. They're basically Webra's with a few modifications (2 plug head and??). The OS 1.40 is still the easiest engine to run out of the box. Glad to Hear that YS finally made life easier for pattern fliers with the DZs. The last 4-stroke YS I ran was the 'infamous' 1.20 SC. Not very user friendly out of the box. I'll be very interested to hear about the OS 200 as their last pattern 4-stroke (the 1.20SP) was not too friendly - talk about a nasty backfire!!
By the way, the OS 1.40RX still has the same amount of power as it did 10 years ago when Eric Henderson and (the late) Eric Hawkinson were raving about how much power the 1.40 had (mostly in the K-Factor). Pattern sequences got more difficult; requiring more power. Airplanes have gotten bigger and 'draggier' (is that a word??). Maybe we should build slightly smaller airplanes... or just pray to YS, OS, Hacker for more, more, more power
-Will B.

wlcornelius

Excuse's are like aholes, everybody has one an in my case I have 2.I really screwed this one up.I painted the cowel, canopy an belly pan and put them up to dry until I was ready for them. So I proceeded to covering an did a pertty dam good job of it, until I put the canopy an belly pan on. An then my jaw hit the floor.Either the spray and the covering didn't match ( Monocote an lustercote) or something to do with the red primer. You can tell even the boss new something wasn't right by the hands on the hip deal. Thats what it is all about , learning by the mistakes you make. O well back to the old shed to do more covering an mistakes. HA HA!

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

The monokote looks too bright. You have a dark base in the red primer (which I don't recommend BTW) and a bright base in wood under the monokote. You're going to have to get creative with that one

-Mike

8178

My Feedback: (17)

The LustreKote paint matches MonoKote very well but you must use the LustreKote primmer that is white in color. I would wet sand the paint, primmer with LustreKote and repaint.

McLaughlinRP

I finally had an opportunity to take some measurements on my Black Magic last night. After several weeks of trimming and experimenting, I believe that I have it exactly where I want it. Here are the basics...

Black Magic v2 #1:

Radio--Futaba 9Z, 9151s aileron, 9351 elevator (deps) and rudder, 3102 throttle, 1400 mah Nicd

Power--OS 160, Perry Pump (1/2 turns in from factory setting), Mueller wrap around header, Hatori (??) pipe, Hyde Aria mount, Central Hobbies pipe mounting system, APC 18.1x10, Tru Turn spinner

Weight--10 lbs 5 oz
CG--Leading edge of wing tube
Incidence--1 degree positive on wing
Thrust--exactly what Mike had (looks like about 2-3 degrees right, 1-2 down)
Aileron throw--1 inch up, 1 1/8 inches down
Elevator throw--7/8 inch up and down
Rudder throw--2 1/4 inches left and right (or as much as you can get)

Things to know:

-Engine mounted at slight angle to accomodate header--no holes in side
-Baffle at air inlet to direct air to head
-Pan isolated from fuse at rear to avoid rattle
-Plane is sensitive to vertical CG--mount battery low in fuse
-Elevator trim changes with temp--two servos in tail would solve this and save nearly two ounces of lead ballast to offset OS 160
-Slow speed performance is dependent on correct incidence and CG
-Some elevator and aileron mixing is required for knife edge
-Plane seems to fly more solidly at 10 1/4 lbs than at 9 1/2 as originally delivered


Likes:

Plane rolls on a rail and draws a great line
Snapping performance is excellent
Knife edge requires almost no rudder input
Spin breaks are distinct (use only slight amount of aileron for spin)
Will climb vertical farther than you can see it
Wood/foam construction is light and durable

Dislikes:

Rudder is weak in certain attitudes, (ie, Rolling "S", rolling circle and rolling 1/2 loop in the FAI "F" pattern) yet very sensitive in normal flight--prone to "skidding"
Plane can be hard to see (could be color scheme in this case)
Carbon canopy will deform easier than you would expect
Belly pan is too flexible


As of yesterday, the rudder problem I mentioned above has been solved. After trying various rudder modifications, we found that the only cure was the CPLR "T" wing thingy. We taped a make shift one behind the canopy on a whim and could not believe it when it actually made a difference. With this, the rolling circle and rolling "S" are 100% easier...the plane really carves with rudder input. No other flight characterstics seemed to change. Who knew???

Overall the Black Magic is competitive in any class and fun to fly. I think that this is an economical alternative that would easily see one through from Sportsman to FAI. I have flown through all of the current and 2007 sequences with it and am currently competing with it in District 3 FAI. I'm having a ball with it.

Hope this helps...I'll answer any other questions you may have.

Thanks!

Ryan McLaughlin

rwlewis

My Feedback: (4)

I can't believe anyone would put one of those ugly ***** fins on their airplane, no matter how good it makes fly......

It's anarchy...Next thing you know cats will be sleeping with dogs...people will be flying things that look like these...

Richard

McLaughlinRP

LOL...

No doubt it's ugly. Mine is particularly hideous as bare balsa and fiberglass. I was really hoping it wouldn't do anything but...

I might just pull it out for the "F" sequences anyway. It's not needed anywhere else.

Maybe retractable??? Hmm...Mike?

Mastertech

My Feedback: (31)

Oh MAN!!!!!!!!!!

Hook that thing to a retract servo and make it extend in flight on command!!!!!!! No one can see it then.



Would that make it a Black Magic version 007 ?

f3a05

mmattockx

Has anyone tried just a fin in the same place, without the "T" top piece? Perhaps more esthetically pleasing and less subsceptible to hangar rash?


Mark

wlcornelius

I bet you that thing will knife-edge an a half.

wlcornelius

Well the fuse is complete except for installing electric an hardware. Looks pertty good for my first 2m.Covering elvators now.

bla bla

Hey a Voodoo Express, don't knock it. It represents a glimmer of hope for US pattern design which as stated in another thread not so long ago is, in seriously in the doll drums.
People just laugh at the plane but it really is a break through. If pattern is to evolve and introduce a whole new dimention, it's designs like this that'll make it happen.

onewasp

Black Magic yes!
Experiments yes!

Those "finned things" NO.

If THAT would revive 'Pattern' in the USA then I'm all for its permanent departure!!!
In fact, Pattern isn't as it once was here but I'll take where it is over "THAT" in a heart beat.

bla bla,

You often have some good points and input ------HOWEVER that jem was beneath
you. :-).

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

onewasp ,

You shouldn't knock it until you've seen it fly ...amazing airplane !!

tommy s

wlcornelius

Elevators completed an set to 0. Hopefully wings tomorrow. Hardware Thur.Friday final check an look out Sat, an Sunday More pics tomorrow.

onewasp

tommy s

I understand your point entirely!

If that is what you are after fine.

I'm not!

I want A/C that closely resemble A/C! ------not Box Kites, Arrows discs or flying lawn mowers----If the shape isn't pleasing to my eye I don't want it, regardless of what it does or doesn't do in the air.
If that design produces nothing but 'tens' I'm still not interested -(didn't care much for CPLR's winglet either).

To each his own ----- that is what makes room for us all in this hobby.

By the way, I've forgotten who it was but that general concept made an earlier appearance -----as in W-A-Y back!

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

WlCornelius,
Please more details on the covering process. In particular the area around fuse/fin joint. More pics would be helpful.

wlcornelius

Around the fin an fuse is probly best done in 2 or 3 peices. That triangle aera is real hard , a lot of streatching an heating. I done mine in 1 solid peice from nose to tail. I don't now if it is a rule, but I cover from bottom to top to create runoff like shingles on a roof. An the same from tail to nose if you have to use shorter peices. On over lapping 1/8- 1/16. The bigger the over lap the easyer it is to notice. Hope the info help along with photoes.Plus this is a muss, seal all controls surfaces an rudder if you feel the need to, I didn't an don't

wlcornelius

I thought I would get both wings done but didn't. A wing has a lot of area on it so Completed one wing an will try the other tomorrow.

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, nice job. I wish mine was making that kind of progress.
How did you deal with the cowl? Cover the fuse, paint the cowl then install? Or just carefully mask? Love the look of paint but HATE the process. Also, running out of friends to impose on to use their space and equipment.