rosinskr

My Feedback: (18)

I've found myself with a couple too many 2M airplanes and need to get rid of a couple. So I've decided to sell my two Black Magic V2s, but I have a dilemma. Both airplanes are completely glassed and painted (fuse, wings, and stabs) and I decided to refinish them. I have only sanded them down and was about to spray a while basecoat before the weather got too cold to paint.

My dilemma is should I continue to paint them and then find them a new home or just try to find them a new home ready to paint so the buyer will have to opportunity to customize their paint scheme?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Rick

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Rick,

Why don't you post up some pics and tell how they are setup, what engine, push rods and weights prior to the refinishing. I have two myself that I'm going to finish with the V2.2 mods. These planes fly pretty good, but I don't believe they are quit the plane the VF3 is but like I said they fly really nice.

Larry

rosinskr

My Feedback: (18)

The first plane had an OS 140RX in it, deps on the elevator and if I recall correctly it weighted 10 lbs 3 ozs without fuel. The second one was setup the same except it was set up with an OS 160FX with pump and weighted in at 10 lbs 14 ozs.

I'm out of town right now so I'll post some pics when I get home.

I agree that they are great flying planes ( I flew them an the nats a few years ago). I just have two VF3s and figured these would do more good with a new home and not sitting in my shop.

Rick

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Can someone help me with the initial  wing and stab incidence settings?

Thanx.

joefroooo

My Feedback: (10)

Robert, Dont you have a V3 from you earlier post?
Not sure on the V2 but on the V3, positive 1/4 degree on the wing and 0 on the stab per the plan is what I show. CG is at the front of the wing tube.
Joe

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

The V2 and V3 both fly better with the wings slighty about .5 positive and zero on the stabs. That is from over 2000 flights on the series of planes and a lot of contest wins and NATS finals on the 3. The 2 is happy with the same setup. Put the CG just in front of the wing tube and you'll be very happy,

Arch

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks guys.  I found my original build book after I posted that message.   

Joe, I have one of each.   I'm finishing up the V2 and I'll prolly start the VF3 this fall.  Projects like this are LONG term for me.  :-)

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

So Arch, I should use +.5 instead of +.25 that Mike suggests as a starting point?

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Yep, exactly. Mike and I spent a lot of time on that setup and over time we settled on .5, not .25. The .25 was the initial setting, but the more we flew the Black Magic series planes, we moved the CG slightly forward and more positive in the wing.

Arch

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Kewl.  Thanx.  I'm just getting ready to glue in the center wing tube sleeve.  One of these days it may actually fly. :-)

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Robert,

Are you doing the 2.2 modes to the rudder on your V2? I have one ready to do wing and stab alignments, but it's so hot in my shop here in Florida that I can't stand to work in it. I'm looking forward getting this thing finished and see how it flies. I finished a V2.2 for a friend of mine and it flew really good and it was also on the cover of one of the K-Factors. It and two V3's that I painted were in the photo. Good luck on your build and hope to here how it flies soon.

Larry

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

It is the 2.2. Actually, Mike sent me the VF3 rudder to replace a damaged rudder core. That required some redesign to make work. Thanks to Troy for helping me get that squared away. Hopefully it will fly as nice as it is starting to look. :-)

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Learned a kewl way to build a wing servo box from Troy.

1. Build surround out of 1/4" squarebalsa sticks.
2. Add 1/8" Aircraft ply plates on bottom of surround.
3. Use dremelwith cutting bitto router center depth to accomodate your servo.
4. Use 1/4" router bit on dremel to provide hole to accomodate the surround. Make this less than 1/4" deep because wing surface is curved, you need some of surround prodruding to sand flush
5. Route top and bottom of hole to accomodate the ply servo mounting plates
6. Glue in place with wood glue. Coat foam inside box with glue as well as surface and sides to accomodate the mount.
7. Set aside for 4+ hours to dry (or whatever is appropriate for your glue)
8. Sand flush with wing.

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

I'm getting close to glassing and painting and I have a couple of questions:

1.  Is Dean still doing the graphics for the Black Magics?  How can I get hold of him?
2.  Does anyone have side and top profile drawings so I can sketch some designs up?

Thanx,

Rob

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Dean got out of RC and back into hang gliding. I haven't heard anything from him for a long time.

Here are side and top profiles for you.

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Bummer about Dean.  I was hoping to snag some really good graphics.  Oh well.  Thanx for the views.

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Robert,

We need to see pics!!! So lets get some up here so we can see how you coming with it. I have a V2 framed, but I still have to add the vertical fin, sheet the wings and do all the alignments. When I able to get started again on it I'll start posting some progress pics here too.


Larry

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Here are some pics to hold you over till Ican put something formal together.

stuntflyr

Neat. A buddy in Redondo Beach has one too, a little farther along. YS170 I think.
Chris...

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

This one will have a YS DZ160 in it.  I hinged and added control horn hard points all the tail control surfaces this weekend.  Remaining steps are:

1.  Hinge and hardpoints for ailerons
2.  Install Elevator and Rudder servo trays
3.  Install DEPS
4.  Prepare for pull-pull rudder
5.  Install sheeted foam belly pan and lower tail fin
6.  Install fiberglass belly pan
7.  Install nosering
8.  Install throttle servo tray
9.  Prepare for throttle pushrod
10. Mount landing gear
11. Glass and paint fuse
12. Tissue/nitrate dope and paint wings and stabs

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Robert,

That looks great I know one thing that was done to a V2 that was framed up by Jon Lowe was the fiberglass belly pan was cut in half about 10 inches behind the front of the pan and bulkheads added to support the area where you cut so that you could remove the front part easy for maintenance and not have to remove the entire belly. I'm going to do the same to mine but have it so it exposes the engine, header and hatori muffler (821) and only have to remove just a few screws. I'm also going to go with the 160 YS with mine too. I'll be getting with the program soon and get some pics up here also. Keep it coming, it looks like you are doing a great job.

Larry

Robbidos

My Feedback: (20)

Yeah, I was planning on doing the same to mine.  Not sure I the rear part will be built up, or just permantly fix the cut portion on the fuse.  I see what the weight difference would be.

computermonkey

My Feedback: (90)

Hello,
Would someone be willing to email/snail mail me a copy of the Black Magic v2.2 plans please? I would cover cost. Please PM me for details.
Thank you,

petec

My Feedback: (58)

computermonkey

My Feedback: (90)

Thank you