bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks, Cd. I downloaded that program some time ago and have played around with it. But, like I said, I'm not very creative so I'll probably go with something like the one in the photo.

I was going to sheet the front turtle deck tonight, but I forgot about fuel proofing, which I just did. It needs to cure, so I'll do the sheeting tomorrow. I did complete the plumbing.

It could be ready to cover in a week or so.

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

The weather has been great lately so I've been out flying about every day. But I did get a little more done.

I completed sheeting the forward turtle deck and have begun the canopy frame.

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

Canopy frame started.

I made a small modification here. The rudder and elevator servos are located in the bay below the rear of the canopy frame. I extended the top bulkhead at the rear of the canopy about 1.5" aft to accommodate access to the servos. The next forward canopy frame bulkhead is in the proper position, so the sheeted part of the aft canopy frame will be longer by 1.5."

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

OK - you guys got me hooked. I ordered plans, canopy, cowl from GatorRC today and spoke for that last set of laser cut fuselage parts from GW Gerald. You may remember I bought the wings and tail feathers from Kevin Duncan that he offered for sale. I'm comitted now - looking forward.

Kevin Duncan

My Feedback: (2)

Daryl, I'm glad you're taking the plunge! The only question I have is whether or not you'll need to buy new wing/stab tubes? It seems to me that you could just rotate the tube upside down and re-drill/tap them, but the length of the tubes may end up slightly off once they are mounted to your fuse. Just food for thought.

Kevin

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

No sweat Kevin - I have some 1" aluminum aircraft tubing I scooped from work. Same spec, just not anodised. I have enough phenolic to do this project but sure would like to buy phenolic alone. I have lots of building on my plate now! Got in some great flying today with my Sirex Super Wasp (fun fly) - what a blast!

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

The weather has been pretty good lately, so I've been flying and not making a lot of progress on the Typhoon.

This is a shot of the completed canopy frame. Next up is mounting the cowl.

Nice to see others taking the plunge with this plane! I hope you post some shots too.

GW-inactive

My Feedback: (4)

Bokuda, That plane is looking great. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. What motor are you planning to power the T2K with?

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks, Gerald.

I'm going to install a Webra 1.45.

I almost feel like I should apologize for the slow progress. Work and good flying weather are slowing me down. When I started it, I thought it would be completed by now. The only building left is to install the cowl, second half of wing sheeting and make the ailerons and wing tips. Then final sanding and covering. Doesn't sound like much, but it's been my experience that everything takes longer than you think it will. Looks like it will be complete sometime in June.

Anyone have any suggestions on installing the canopy on the frame in a way so the canopy material is flush with the wood of the frame? Or should it just overlap the wood and be sealed with a strip of covering? How do you handle this?

Dave

kenny_g

I am looking for the lazer cut formers for the 2K, where can I get these cut?

Thanks

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone got some really nice Typhoon 2000 images or know of a few websites where good pictures can be found?

kenny_g

GW,

Where can I find a carbon landing gear for the 2K. I plan to use a fixed gear.

Thanks,

Ken

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

I put the CF Bolly gear on mine. I got the large F3A gear.

http://www.bollyprops.com/index.html

I haven't used it yet as my plane is not complete. The concern I have with this gear, which seems to pretty widely used, is that it is swept. That puts a torsional load on the gear mount when landing and it seems it might twist itself out.

A friend of mine uses this gear and has experienced this on what I considered to be decent landings.

Mount this one securely or search for a CF gear that is not swept.

GW-inactive

My Feedback: (4)

Bolly F3A large from PAC is my choice.
link:
http://www.precisionaerocomposite.com/

Ryan Smith

My Feedback: (25)

Does anyone know who imports Hirobo landing gear here in the states?

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

The twisting or torsional loading on the Bolly swept gear will not hurt it. The good thing about it is that it absorbs rough landing real good. carbon fiber gear will always come back to its original position and is very resilient. For this reason I think takes a lot of the stress away from the fuse by twisting and absorbing shock. I fly off of a grass field that is not perfectly smooth and it handles it fine. I even had and accident last year that wiped out the fuse in my plane and the gear survived except for a few stress cracks that where easily repair with thin c/a. I cut the gear in half and mounted with 3- 6/32 bolts on each leg. I have seen some guys use 4-4/40 bolts also.

Wayne

kenny_g

I just received my 2K plans and it has retracts shown in the wings, what modifications do I need to do to install a fixed gear?

Thanks

GW-inactive

My Feedback: (4)

Maybe Bokuda could uplaod some pics of his gear installation. I dont have any recent photos.


Just be sure to beef up the fuse area surrounding the gear plate.

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

Pretty simple, really. Just don't build in the mounts for the retracts.

When I got the fixed gear, I held it next to the plans with the wheel mount part of the gear in the right place and marked on the fuse where to mount it. Then I built the mount into the fuse. I used a 1/8" plywood plate glued to the fuse sides and reinforced with triangle stock. The sides were also reinforced above the gear mount with lite-ply.

I chose not to split the gear. I assume splitting the gear is done so the legs will clear the sides and pipe tunnel. I built the tunnel around the gear instead. I left about a 3/16" gap between the top of the gear and the fuse sides to allow for flex in the gear. I plan to seal this with silicone sealant after covering. I believe the one piece gear will be much stronger and less prone to breaking through the pipe tunnel on hard landing. (I'm bound to make one someday!)

It still needs a little cleaning up, but here is photo of it. Sorry, I didn't take photo's of the internal installation.

Also, in case anyone is following the progress on this plane, I have made some lately due to some recent bad weather that's kept me from flying. One wing is now fully sheeted and the cowl mounting is about half done. I'll post photos another time. Construction is nearly done!

kenny_g

Thanks Bokuda,

I will be starting this project in about a week. I will probably have more questions as I go and I really appreciate the help.

Kenny_g

kenny_g

GW,

I cannot access the second set of Typhoon photos on your web site. Could you email these to me [email protected], have you shipped the formers yet?

Thanks

GW-inactive

My Feedback: (4)

Ken
The second set of photos on the server has been dropped by the provider, and I did not have backups. I will see if I can FTP them from the old account.

I shipped 2 sets of formers today. Yours and TeamVertical's.

You 2 should have your sets mid-next week by USPS Priority.

If either of you want a Delivery Confirmation #, let me know and I can email them to you. I think you can track them via USPS website now.

I am redoing the Typhoon pages on the website, and making some new sections for all the T2K's being built now. All of you can email me any photos of construction or finished, and I will post them on the website if you like. It will make a great collection of info to the new builder I would think.

Bokuda. I have downloaded all yours from RCU , if its OK I will use them as well?

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

GW: Using my photos is fine with me! The more people we can help out the better. I sure appreciate all the help I'm getting with this project. I'll try to be more diligent in getting photos of my progress.

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

This probably looks crude to many, but it works.

Attaching the second piece of sheeting is a little tricky. The first is easy because the whole wing can be pinned to the board and jig and the pins are easily removed after. The wing cannot be pinned completely to the board and jig for the second piece of sheeting because the pins would then be left inside the wing.

Thanks to Mike Hester for the following method!

The wing is placed on the jig (pattern for the jig is on the plans) and only the spars are pinned to the board at each end. Two hour epoxy (yes, 2 hour!--available from Central RC) is then brushed on the ribs etc. The sheet is then placed and weighted on aft part of the chord, behind the spar. Pins hold the front of the sheeting down and are placed in light lines marking the location of the ribs that were made beforehand.

I used two hour epoxy to give myself plenty of time to apply it, which takes a good 20 minutes, and to pin the sheeting down.

I used 60 minute epoxy for the first pieces of sheeting, but barely had time to get it done. The epoxy began to set as I was putting the sheeting in place. Ninety minute might work for the first piece, but the two hour lets me relax and not rush. I recommend it.

This is my second panel. I used this technique on the first one and it appears to be very straight. It just takes a little care and patience. It would be nice to have a more sophisticated way to weight down the wing!

Since there are other people following this and building the plane, I'll copy Mike Hester's complete response to my question as to how to do this:

"Second skin is a trick. I place the wing on the jig and line it up, and then pin the extra spar material to the bench/board. Yep only 2 pins keep it in place. if you cut your spars off, just put the pins in at an angle.

Make SURE the surface is straight. At this point I place a metal straight edge under the trailing edge between the jig and wing. run a long bar sander down the wing so everything is even. When you apply the skin, pin down the spar first, then use a large straight edge (I have a huge level I use for this step) and "rake" it slowly towards the trailing edge. I then leave the trailing edge sanwiched between the straight edge and the level until the glue sets. weight it down and pin the crap out of it (the area behind the spar) and then have someone hold the trailing edge weight down while you secure the leading edge. use about 928561238563987623587236598256 pins (heh) and let it dry.

Be sure to check frequently that nothing has twisted, shifted, moved, warped, etc. And I assure you that wing will be straight. So far I've built 14 Typhoon panels and every one was straight. Just pay attention and go slow. Use 2 hour epoxy for that second skin, that way you have plenty of working time (and a hell of a stick!).

Cya,
-Mike

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

This is the set-up I'm using for the cowl attachment. The plans call for a 1/4" overlap of the cowl on the fuselage. The overlap is actually about 1/2" on one side due to the built-in side thrust, but I was concerned that engine vibration transferred to the cowl by the nose ring would dislodge it. So I attached some 1/4"x1/2" stock at the edges of the firewall to provide more gluing surface. I also "rabbeted" the front of the nose so the cowl would install even with the fuselage sheeting.

I asked GW for suggestions on this and this is his reply. It would be useful for all of us, so here it is. Hope GW doesn't mind!

"Dave, I always attached mine with a cowl ring of sorts. 1/8" lite ply ring, just inside the cowl overlay area. The 1/4" stock you have applied will be fine. Once you get the cowl fitted and tacked in place. Tack it good!!.

Remove the engine, make a nice epoxy fillet around the inside of the cowl/firewall joint. Make sure to sand the glass good where it will be glued. Clean with alcohol after sanding the contact area. I'm sure you are using a Hyde mount, the side to side mass with a nose ring is minimal. Mainly rotational, very little actual pressure side to side. Make the nose ring a semi tight fit, with just enough play to slide the ring over the crankcase with some lube. It will wear quickly and find its own fit. GW "

Another builder suggested a fillet of fiberglass inside at the firewall/cowl joint.