ZNLine factory: Enigma Building
#301
My Feedback: (1)
ZNLine factory: Enigma Building
I would agree that the brace should be in the middle, but it would make the fuse sufficiently stiff to provide enough load bearing capacity in any location most likely.
Ya I like the black, that is the thing I hate, going to all the work of laminating up carbon/honeycomb then getting a white ring around the edge. Its a lot of effort to remove it and make it look clean.
What is the filler you are adding to the epoxy?
Ya I like the black, that is the thing I hate, going to all the work of laminating up carbon/honeycomb then getting a white ring around the edge. Its a lot of effort to remove it and make it look clean.
What is the filler you are adding to the epoxy?
#302
Finishing up.
Chad,
The dye is made for the epoxy by the same company that makes the epoxy. www.r-g.de is the website of the business. Great stuff, and they do have a complete English page.
Here is the last point of attachment for the belly pan.
The dye is made for the epoxy by the same company that makes the epoxy. www.r-g.de is the website of the business. Great stuff, and they do have a complete English page.
Here is the last point of attachment for the belly pan.
#305
The MK device.
This piece is located in relationship with the control horn and the push rod length. The two elevator push rods are the MK rod. Light weight, very strong, and pretty. Inside, we will use a CF rod and titanium ends from Central Hobbies. 3mm MK B.B. connectors all around. The hole for the MK device is drilled with a conical Dremel stone. No backing is needed inside of the fuselage. The MK device has a screw all the way through to hold it all together and the 5mm screws simply hold the bearing carriers in place on the fuselage side.
#306
Ready to cover.
It took about eight hours to sand and fill this wing. To really make it awesome, I could add a coat of paste wood filler, but that would add an unecessary ounce and take another 6 hours or so. It also makes covering a little bit more difficult. If I were building this for a personal sport flyer, I might add the wood filler. Paste wood filler is extremely light weight and in two coats can fill all of the grain so that the covering looks like it was painted on. It may add 30 grams on a 1900mm wing. For a contracted airplane, it will definately add to the cost.
NOTE: The incredibly beautiful, painted wings favored in Japan, smooth as glass, actually display a disadvantage in flight characteristics over a slightly rough, covered surface. The golf ball effect if you please. So, the impeccable finish is only for the eyes, not the air.
NOTE: The incredibly beautiful, painted wings favored in Japan, smooth as glass, actually display a disadvantage in flight characteristics over a slightly rough, covered surface. The golf ball effect if you please. So, the impeccable finish is only for the eyes, not the air.
#307
Going all the way back to post one.
The first thing I did before joining the wings was to mark the servo wire tunnel location. I just opened it up with the Dremel tool as the final step before covering. The coverer is coming over this evening to pick up some stabs and two wings. One is for Christophe, so I had better get back outside and final sand Christophe's wing to utter perfection.
#308
One more quicky.
Here is the aileron. Beveled just enough for great F3A snaps.
Friends, this completes the construction phase of the Enigma until it returns from the paint shop and covering shop. The the servo tray is added, the hinges are glued, and all of the hardware will go in. I do not believe that I have left anything out.
For those of you who think this was lots of work, remember, I was building 5 at once, and at the same time working a full time job, preparing ARFs, installing cannister mufflers in big airplanes, flying, sleeping, eating, and all of those other things that make life full and wonderful.
I would estimate that a power builder using 3 hour epoxy instead of 24 hour stuff could get one of these ready to paint in about 2-3 weeks.
I hope to get some photos during the painting process and covering process. If I am unable to do that, then the installation will be next.
Ciao for now,
Mark
Friends, this completes the construction phase of the Enigma until it returns from the paint shop and covering shop. The the servo tray is added, the hinges are glued, and all of the hardware will go in. I do not believe that I have left anything out.
For those of you who think this was lots of work, remember, I was building 5 at once, and at the same time working a full time job, preparing ARFs, installing cannister mufflers in big airplanes, flying, sleeping, eating, and all of those other things that make life full and wonderful.
I would estimate that a power builder using 3 hour epoxy instead of 24 hour stuff could get one of these ready to paint in about 2-3 weeks.
I hope to get some photos during the painting process and covering process. If I am unable to do that, then the installation will be next.
Ciao for now,
Mark
#309
Moderator
My Feedback: (58)
ZNLine factory: Enigma Building
Hi Mark, what lengths and diameters of CF push rods do you use ? Is there any guideline for CF rod size selection ?
The "golf ball" effect is an interesting point. Kinda justifies my lack in covering skills. Could you provide more info on the paste wood filler ? Is this cellulose or resin based ?
Thanks !
The "golf ball" effect is an interesting point. Kinda justifies my lack in covering skills. Could you provide more info on the paste wood filler ? Is this cellulose or resin based ?
Thanks !
#310
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The coverer is coming over this evening to pick up some stabs and two wings. One is f
I thought CPLR used brown paper sheeted wings?
Great work though Mark!!!!!
You must have alot more patience than me when it comes to sanding!!!
Great work though Mark!!!!!
You must have alot more patience than me when it comes to sanding!!!
#311
My Feedback: (1)
Re: Going all the way back to post one.
Originally posted by MarkNovack
The first thing I did before joining the wings was to mark the servo wire tunnel location. I just opened it up with the Dremel tool as the final step before covering. The coverer is coming over this evening to pick up some stabs and two wings. One is for Christophe, so I had better get back outside and final sand Christophe's wing to utter perfection.
The first thing I did before joining the wings was to mark the servo wire tunnel location. I just opened it up with the Dremel tool as the final step before covering. The coverer is coming over this evening to pick up some stabs and two wings. One is for Christophe, so I had better get back outside and final sand Christophe's wing to utter perfection.
CPLR is flying the Enigma....? Or are those wings from another model
#312
Christophe's wing.
CPLR is just trying a slight modification on his Synergy wing. We normally do his prototypes in balsa. When he likes the new one better, it becomes the production wing and he gets his core sets for papering. Paper!!!
Mike, the paste wood filler is a standard hardware store variety. I used MAB Paste Wood Filler. It is thinned with mineral spirits (I do not know which base it is bushed on, allowed to dry about 15 minutes, rubbed across the grain (this presses it into the grain and removes it from the high spots) and allowed to dry for a day. Then it is sanded with 220 and the procedure is repeated. This time, let is dry for three days, and starting with 220, sand to 1000. This will provide an incredible base for covering. At this point, a woodpecker can be gently rolled over the surface to ease the gas problem, and you will never, ever see the holes from the woodpecker. I recommend Oracover (Ultracote) when using this procedure as it adheres better, but I have finished two airplanes with Monokote using that system and they looked awesome. People always asked me what kind of paint I used. When I said it was Monokote, some folks actually became angry because they thought I was playing games and keeping "trade secrets" from them. I had to show them the seams for them to believe me.
Giving credit where credit is due, I learned the process from the owner of the now closed business Ohio R/C.
Mike, the paste wood filler is a standard hardware store variety. I used MAB Paste Wood Filler. It is thinned with mineral spirits (I do not know which base it is bushed on, allowed to dry about 15 minutes, rubbed across the grain (this presses it into the grain and removes it from the high spots) and allowed to dry for a day. Then it is sanded with 220 and the procedure is repeated. This time, let is dry for three days, and starting with 220, sand to 1000. This will provide an incredible base for covering. At this point, a woodpecker can be gently rolled over the surface to ease the gas problem, and you will never, ever see the holes from the woodpecker. I recommend Oracover (Ultracote) when using this procedure as it adheres better, but I have finished two airplanes with Monokote using that system and they looked awesome. People always asked me what kind of paint I used. When I said it was Monokote, some folks actually became angry because they thought I was playing games and keeping "trade secrets" from them. I had to show them the seams for them to believe me.
Giving credit where credit is due, I learned the process from the owner of the now closed business Ohio R/C.
#313
My Feedback: (1)
Re: Christophe's wing.
Originally posted by MarkNovack
CPLR is just trying a slight modification on his Synergy wing. We normally do his prototypes in balsa. When he likes the new one better, it becomes the production wing and he gets his core sets for papering. Paper!!!
CPLR is just trying a slight modification on his Synergy wing. We normally do his prototypes in balsa. When he likes the new one better, it becomes the production wing and he gets his core sets for papering. Paper!!!
#314
Moderator
My Feedback: (58)
Re: Christophe's wing.
Originally posted by MarkNovack
At this point, a woodpecker can be gently rolled over the surface to ease the gas problem, and you will never, ever see the holes from the woodpecker.
At this point, a woodpecker can be gently rolled over the surface to ease the gas problem, and you will never, ever see the holes from the woodpecker.
#315
Woodpecker
Mike, I use it only when I do the paste filler with Oracover. Using Oracover is pretty simple and does not gas like Monokote, but the surface is so smooth with the past wood filler that gassing can be a problem even with Oracover.
I used it much more often when I used Monokote.
Mark
I used it much more often when I used Monokote.
Mark
#319
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stab servo
Hello Mr Novack
I'm reading your forum on the Enigma with great interest.
I am building a zn line synergy using your method step by step.
Question , am planning to put 2 servos on the stabs and with your input I need to know what the minimum servo torque is needs for each elevator.
Keep up the good work!!
C Lim.
I'm reading your forum on the Enigma with great interest.
I am building a zn line synergy using your method step by step.
Question , am planning to put 2 servos on the stabs and with your input I need to know what the minimum servo torque is needs for each elevator.
Keep up the good work!!
C Lim.
#320
No servos in the tail on the SYnergy or Enigma!!!
We use one +100oz servo, normally a 9151 for both elevators.
The reason I do not recommend putting the servos into the tail is you may acutally have to add upwards of 300 grams, possibly more, to get an adequate balance. Even with an OS1.60, the airplane needs to be built nice and lightly in the tail.
Normally, for the OS140, the battery pack will be just behind the firewall, for the YS140, on the front wing mounting block, and for the OS160 with standard style mount, on the rear wing mounting block. This is when the rudder servos are in the servo tray in the belly.
A friend has just finished a very very nicely built Synergy with the OS160. He used an extremely light motor mount, pull-pull for elevators and rudder, and still needed to mount the battery behind the firewall.
Mark
The reason I do not recommend putting the servos into the tail is you may acutally have to add upwards of 300 grams, possibly more, to get an adequate balance. Even with an OS1.60, the airplane needs to be built nice and lightly in the tail.
Normally, for the OS140, the battery pack will be just behind the firewall, for the YS140, on the front wing mounting block, and for the OS160 with standard style mount, on the rear wing mounting block. This is when the rudder servos are in the servo tray in the belly.
A friend has just finished a very very nicely built Synergy with the OS160. He used an extremely light motor mount, pull-pull for elevators and rudder, and still needed to mount the battery behind the firewall.
Mark
#321
ZNLine factory: Enigma Building
Mark,
Any chance of getting some tips from your covering guy.
It's always interesting to see and hear how most people tackle this part of the job.
Regards,
Peter
Any chance of getting some tips from your covering guy.
It's always interesting to see and hear how most people tackle this part of the job.
Regards,
Peter
#323
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ZNLine factory: Enigma Building
Mark
I can't help noticing the Enigma looks very similar to the Evolis and was wondering what are the diferences between the two designs?
I can't help noticing the Enigma looks very similar to the Evolis and was wondering what are the diferences between the two designs?
#324
Enigma and Evolis
Well, to start with, they are both Arnoud Poyet designs. The Enigma is an offshoot from the Evolis, a beefier airplane with a new wing, shorter nose moment, thicker trailing edges, and lots more side area on the fuselage. Kind of an Evolis on steroids. It finishes about 100-150 grams heavier with all of that extra mass and really favors the DZ over the L model Yamada.
We put an L into JPs old Evolis and it accelerated vertically so fast that it was comical and just did not look right. The Enigma takes that power in stride and with it's mass, will go down the front side of a the single roll loop and up the back side at the same speed. This is where the Enigma is totally at home. When flying manuvers on the knife such as the loop and the half knife-edge loop. Going under is just as easy as going over the top, and that way allows more time to set up for the next manuver.
Mark
We put an L into JPs old Evolis and it accelerated vertically so fast that it was comical and just did not look right. The Enigma takes that power in stride and with it's mass, will go down the front side of a the single roll loop and up the back side at the same speed. This is where the Enigma is totally at home. When flying manuvers on the knife such as the loop and the half knife-edge loop. Going under is just as easy as going over the top, and that way allows more time to set up for the next manuver.
Mark
#325
My Feedback: (1)
Re: Enigma and Evolis
Originally posted by MarkNovack
Well, to start with, they are both Arnoud Poyet designs. The Enigma is an offshoot from the Evolis, a beefier airplane with a new wing, shorter nose moment, thicker trailing edges, and lots more side area on the fuselage. Kind of an Evolis on steroids. It finishes about 100-150 grams heavier with all of that extra mass and really favors the DZ over the L model Yamada.
We put an L into JPs old Evolis and it accelerated vertically so fast that it was comical and just did not look right. The Enigma takes that power in stride and with it's mass, will go down the front side of a the single roll loop and up the back side at the same speed. This is where the Enigma is totally at home. When flying manuvers on the knife such as the loop and the half knife-edge loop. Going under is just as easy as going over the top, and that way allows more time to set up for the next manuver.
Mark
Well, to start with, they are both Arnoud Poyet designs. The Enigma is an offshoot from the Evolis, a beefier airplane with a new wing, shorter nose moment, thicker trailing edges, and lots more side area on the fuselage. Kind of an Evolis on steroids. It finishes about 100-150 grams heavier with all of that extra mass and really favors the DZ over the L model Yamada.
We put an L into JPs old Evolis and it accelerated vertically so fast that it was comical and just did not look right. The Enigma takes that power in stride and with it's mass, will go down the front side of a the single roll loop and up the back side at the same speed. This is where the Enigma is totally at home. When flying manuvers on the knife such as the loop and the half knife-edge loop. Going under is just as easy as going over the top, and that way allows more time to set up for the next manuver.
Mark