barlows

Brian,

Do you have any pics of your tank set-up? I plan on running a pumped engine too, and just started on the fuse. Sounds like you've done the hard part, I figured I'd just copy it ;-)

My fuse doublers also were a bit short. My guess is that as the wood dried, it shrunk just a bit. Not too big of a deal. I also agree, they have given a lot of thought to grain direction throughout the whole plane. These guys might be around for a while...

Steve

azuz

PatternFlyer,

My Buddy was suggesting the same thing to me in the evening, after we test flew a new secretly built airplane from our production line.... soon to go on sale.

He suggested b4 covering cut a hole in the middle somewhere to give support for the push rodd so that it wont flex. My Push Rod is around 8mm and hollow in between difficult to flex.. I guess it shall be fine.

Thanks
Azuz...

Thomasr

A quick thought on tank location when using the 91FX: The ideal thing to do would be installing a perry pump, and then placing the fuel tank on the C of G. If that's not considered as an option, I'd go for a medium sized fuel tank behind the firewall. However, the pumped solution would be way superior to the alternatives.

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

Azuz,
Just make sure it doesn't vibrate.
If you find it vibrating later, you can put a piece of sponge around it. This will require you to change all the elevator linkages to ball bearing parts. absolutely 0 slop.

As Thomasr suggested above, Fuel tank on CG with 91FX/SX will need Perry Pump VP-30 regulating pump. (blue).
The location of the full tank will be under the canopy. I think MK & OK model tank will fit without any modifications to the cockpit.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

Where do I get a perry pump? The decking for the cabin gets in the way of putting the tank in, So I may have to raise/omit it. other than that, I am going to "build the tank in" if I dont build a hatch. I think the hatch would be easy to do, but I will have to cut a couple formers similar to F4 for the balsa to run in. All I did to make the formers f3 &f4 compatible with installing the tank was square up the lightining hole area with a dremel to get the tank past.

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

Brian,
Tower hobbies has it. Your local hobby shops may also have them too.
If you are going to use Perry pump, stop working on that hatch and put the tank on CG.

I just thought about routing the fuel lines. To use this VP-30, there has to be a line for vent (pressure line). Where are you going to put this vent line?

Just ran the engine with BB 140 Tuned pipe, Macs standard header (uncut). 20% nitro, extra shim, MK 14x8, OS #8 >> 9700 rpm. I will have to try APC next time. My glow driver just died.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

O.K. this is my setup-
-All measurements are along the hinge line that comes on the wing-
(Also done in metric since the rest of the plane is)
(on each wing half) from wing root measure out 3 inches (76mm)- this is where the flap starts. note- this is .5 inches inside where the aileron would normally start. The Flap is 9 inches (230mm) long. Then starts the aileron, which without the wing tip is 19" (480mm) this yields a 67% Aileron/ 33% flap surface. Also the 3" plus 9" in the center of each wing panel leaves 24" total length in the center that is undisturbed airflow for pattern manuvers (the horizontal stab span is just over 24". this ensures that airflow does not get kicked aroud by the ailerons and screw up the flow over the elevators. The flaps will be used as ailerons/flaperons on my on 3D manuvers and landings at my descretion, NOT during precision Flying.
I have decided to use JR 517BB servos (42 oz-in)for the 9" flaps, and Hitec 605BB (77 oz-in) servos for the 19" Ailerons.
So there you have it- 2/3 aileron, 1/3 flap, a clear horizontal stab, and about the same amout of flight load per servo power. A JR 347 radio to handle all mixing- full span ailerons, partial span ailerons, flaps, flaperons,& crow.
this will add about 3 oz. of weight to the finished model. (2 std servos @ 1.4 oz each, extensions, and control horns but I have always wanted to do it.
Any Questions?

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

Brian,
Which servo goes to which channel?
Can you tell me about mixing?
I am using 8103. Still a little bit confused on how to set them up to work.

Also, Are your aileron servos located at the end of the servo wire holes in the wing? How far from the root rib for the servo locations?

azuz

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PatternFlyer
[B]Azuz,
.....If you find it vibrating later, you can put a piece of sponge around it. This will require you to change all the elevator linkages to ball bearing parts. absolutely 0 slop.



Are you using the MK parts ? I beleive singahobbies is selling them i guess if those are the ones then i will order them

Regards
aziz

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

Sorry, I already had the servos figured out- From the root- Flap servo is 6" from the root, servo arm pointed to the tip. Aileron servo @16" from the root, Arm also pointed to the tip. The Aileron servo will use the lead tunnel provided, with the servo located behind the tube, lead of the servo pointing forward. I will cut a new channel for the flap servo leads, and place that tunnel forward of the first on about 3/4"-1" to keep the leads seperate. the Flap servo will then go in front of that tunnel, lead exiting the servo towards the hinge line.
The servos are someting like this- right aileron-Channel 2 (AIL) left aileron-channel 6 (FLAP) right flap- Channel 5 (Gear) left Flap channel 7 (spoilers) I dont have the radio or the book with me right now, They are in Minneapolis with most of my Flying stuff
I know the 347 and 8103 are similar, but I dont know if they are exact. I will either have to use the sailplane mode for the setup, or program it in myself, which would take up the space for my two manditory mixes, Rud-Ail, and Rud-Elev (roll and pitch coupling)
Hope this helps a little.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

O.K. Ihave decided what control horns to use also. They are made by sullivan, and they have a .75" offset on the horn to ensure perfect geometry over the hinge line I will use for singles for the wing and 3 doubles for the pull-pull tail. Take a look! Yes, i real ize theat is about 35 dollars in horns.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBWL3&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBWL4&P=M
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm

azuz

Brian

I just used 14mm Control horns from Worldmodel they work fine really ! Dont think u need to spend that much !

cheers
azuz

PatternFlyer

My Feedback: (182)

Azuz,
Yes, I am using the MK ball bearing parts.
I tried without the ballbearing parts with sponge in the middle of the pushrod. Since the pushrod touches the sponge, there was a little binding.

It was with digital servo, but the elevator didnot go back to same neutral points. So, replaced them with MK or H9 ball bearing parts. It goes back to correct position. I could feel the differences in-flight.

Sullivan control horns looks good. Will I use them?
Maybe, 19mm offset is way too big for pattern. Maybe those giant scales and 3D planes.

They look similar to IM products
http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...horns/imp.html

I use MK 815 & 812 with longer screws.
http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...horns/mkd.html

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

O.K., I triple-checked my Servo placement before the servo cutting began- After realizing that the wing @16" from the root is not thick enough to have a servo upright the way it is, I know why they mount the servo side ways- to get it deep enough! So, My servo was location has been choosen to be about 14.5" from the root instead of 16. also, I made shur the servo was placed in the thickest part of the wing. After very care ful calculations, My 605BB sits in the hole, resting on the top sheeting with the top of the servo case level with the bottom of the wing! All four Servo holes are now dug, waiting fo wood. My mind has been made up now, it cant be changed! I was to the point were I almost cut thru the top sheeting to get that extra 2mm clearence!
Flap servo and hinge lines all remain as before, the servos are mounted 4.3/8" from hingeline to the rearward body of the servo case. I'll try for some pics soon! Stay posted.

Also, since this is more construction and setup rather than equipment, I will post all this future stuff in the other thread. My last couple messages have been double-posts and I dont want to get in trouble

robert

Just wondering how everyone mounted their engines on the widebody? I am finally working on it again, and am having difficulty getting everything all on straight and aligned. I am thinking of:
Measuring the distance from the back of the engine mount to the prop driver.
Getting the length of the cowl, and putting it on the model so that it is on square, and that the engine's prop driver should be a few mm's from the front of the cowl.
Then putting the model vertical, and just plop the engine and engine mount on F1.
Mounting the cowl and screwing it on, to make sure its on rigid.
Then with the spinner move the engine to get the right position, followed by temporarily sticking the mount with some CA to make sure it stays on while I take off the cowl. Sounds easier now. What do you all think?

Thanks.
Robert.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

Just like the instructions. Built a box around the std. muffler inside the fuse, and have the motor about 130 degrees from upright.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Just a note about your canopy. Mine was also damaged in shipment but turned
out to be a blessing in disguise. Put a Hydeout canopy on and moved it forward
about two inches. Think it helped knife-edge and roll transitions. This along with
Bolly F3A slanted carbon fiber landing gear makes a good looking plane look and
fly even better in my opinion.

tommy s

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

wow, I'll have to look into the hydeout canopy. It is too bad the canopy has to be replaced. I hope that they have fixed thier shipping process. Thanks again,

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Yeah, it's a long way from Argentina. That was my only gripe about the airplane.
Mine was an ARC and the canopy was scratched and the right wing tip had a
pretty nasty gouge in it that I had to repair and the wheel pants were missing.
Planned on not using the stock pants anyway but should have been packed better.
Looked like my box had come open, or was opened, and not resecured very good.
Other than that, no problems.

tommy s

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

where did you get the canopy? (or do you have an extra?) also do you know where to get fiberglass ones since i plan to paint it anyway? I'm kinda new to this stuff. My last pattern plane is an ultamite Kaos.

tommy s

My Feedback: (55)

Got the canopy and landing gear from Precision Aero Composites.
Haven't seen any f-glass ones.

Precision Aero Composites 662-462-5480
[email protected]

tommy s

lino0-7

My Feedback: (5)

Hey guys,I finished my widebody with a inverted ys91.Canopy and wheel pants from a h9 funtana ,and the cost was 14 bucks.