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Electric Osmose Building

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Old 10-23-2007, 10:35 AM
  #1
najary
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Default Electric Osmose Building

For those of us who have no building experience, Here are some pictures:
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:49 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:17 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:22 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:28 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:33 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:39 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:44 AM
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:41 PM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

very nice pic[8D]
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Old 10-25-2007, 04:49 AM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

Great stuff, look forward to more of your instructional photies.

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Old 10-25-2007, 04:57 AM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

Hi
Najary.
Nice crocs you have

Waiting for more pic's!

Ram
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Old 10-25-2007, 05:38 AM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

I think it is a great opportunity for the entire RC F3A community to learn how a top F3A master, 30 years in F3A,
build his new F3A ship. I will not exaggerate if I say that Itzik is one of the world top F3A builder and for him
F3A ship building is a science by itself. Itizik, please keep up the photos documentation.
I am confident that this post will become an essential masterpiece for any F3A Pilot.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:50 PM
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Old 10-25-2007, 01:09 PM
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Old 10-26-2007, 06:49 AM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge

Brgds
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: jnp

Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge

Brgds
Juan
Thank you Juan
Yes, the reason for the ply is to strengthen the tips, I try to build the ship that it will look like new one after hundreds of flights. According to my experience, sometimes the tips are damaged during transportation.

Isaac Najary
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:44 PM
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:59 PM
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:18 PM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

Hi Najary,

This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though . What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?

thanks

Roly
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rolyjr

Hi Najary,

This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though . What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?

thanks

Roly

Hi Roly
The marking is 2.5mm from the wing tip, that allows 0.9mm gap after gluing the 1.6mm balsa sheet.

Isaac Najary
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:18 PM
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Default RE: Electric Osmose Building

Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks

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Old 10-30-2007, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rolyjr

Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks

Roly
Hi Roly
Mine came out straight from the box.
I suggest using the straight angled balsa on the wings/stabs (not on the ailerons/elevators).
Glue on the ailerons/elevators a new balsa sheets, about the same thickness as the original spars.
At first sand it flush with the ailerons/elevators skins, and then sand the triangle shape.
Goog luck.

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Old 10-30-2007, 12:35 PM
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:49 PM
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Old 10-31-2007, 01:47 AM
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