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  1. #1
    najary's Avatar
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    Electric Osmose Building

    For those of us who have no building experience, Here are some pictures:
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  2. #2
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  3. #3
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  4. #4
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  5. #5
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  6. #6
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  7. #7
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  8. #8
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  9. #9

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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    very nice pic[8D]

  10. #10

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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    Great stuff, look forward to more of your instructional photies.


  11. #11
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    Hi
    Najary.
    Nice crocs you have

    Waiting for more pic's!

    Ram

  12. #12
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    I think it is a great opportunity for the entire RC F3A community to learn how a top F3A master, 30 years in F3A,
    build his new F3A ship. I will not exaggerate if I say that Itzik is one of the world top F3A builder and for him
    F3A ship building is a science by itself. Itizik, please keep up the photos documentation.
    I am confident that this post will become an essential masterpiece for any F3A Pilot.
    Amram

  13. #13
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  14. #14
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  15. #15

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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge

    Brgds
    Juan

  16. #16
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building


    ORIGINAL: jnp

    Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge

    Brgds
    Juan
    Thank you Juan
    Yes, the reason for the ply is to strengthen the tips, I try to build the ship that it will look like new one after hundreds of flights. According to my experience, sometimes the tips are damaged during transportation.

    Isaac Najary

  17. #17
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  18. #18
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  19. #19

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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    Hi Najary,

    This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though . What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?

    thanks

    Roly

  20. #20
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building


    ORIGINAL: rolyjr

    Hi Najary,

    This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though . What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting?

    thanks

    Roly

    Hi Roly
    The marking is 2.5mm from the wing tip, that allows 0.9mm gap after gluing the 1.6mm balsa sheet.

    Isaac Najary

  21. #21

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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks

    Roly

  22. #22
    najary's Avatar
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

    ORIGINAL: rolyjr

    Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks

    Roly
    Hi Roly
    Mine came out straight from the box.
    I suggest using the straight angled balsa on the wings/stabs (not on the ailerons/elevators).
    Glue on the ailerons/elevators a new balsa sheets, about the same thickness as the original spars.
    At first sand it flush with the ailerons/elevators skins, and then sand the triangle shape.
    Goog luck.

    Isaac Najary

  23. #23
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    RE: Electric Osmose Building

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  24. #24
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  25. #25
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