Jeff Boyd 2

Hi Dean . .

Personally, I would be concerned about the Saito 91 in this airframe. It's built LIGHT. Some reasonable strengthening would be required in my opinion, and this would all add undesirable weight ultimately affecting its performance (PLUS I think it would end up very nose heavy).

I would love to put a YS63 in one, but I am worried for the same reasons. I have flown one that has been "beefed up" a little with a OS55AX, and it is VERY nice to fly with the amount of power (a YS63 would be awesome, but probably overkill). The OS55AX seems very smooth throughout the rev range, and the airframe is adequate for this power plant, however it still needs mods to the engine box / firewall area.

Cheers, Jeff

FedonAircraft

See the news

http://youtube.com/watch?v=lo6-Npw-5uc

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Luigi,

I just got mine from you, it arrived in great shape. Quick service also, thanks!

jfetter

Luigi,

Please stop advertising in this thread, it was created for the Angel as a "build thread"...

Jack

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Well I started putting mine together this evening and I have a minor question.

My right wing has about a 3mm gap between it and the fuse at the rear of the wing, and about a 2mm gap at the front. The anti-rotation rods are well into the fuse so that is not an issue. From a pattern flying perspective, will the gaps make in difference in flight, such as tracking?

I wouldn't think it should from past experience, but this is my first pattern plane, and I it is my understanding that some small details can end up making a difference that wouldn't concern me with my scale stuff.

elan120

My Feedback: (1)

I would suggest fit it tighter against the fuselage. Try if you can relocate the t-nut in the fuselage to allow better fit.

Kevin

jfetter

It sounds to me like the pins are only into the balsa and not through the backing ply. My forward pin is just the slightest bit out of alignment with the ply hole making me have to wiggle it to get it seated but there should be no gap, look from the inside and verify the pins are through the plywood...

Jack

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Yes, the pins are through the ply, well into the fuse. The center portion of the wing root is flush against the fuse so it won't be getting any closer.

jfetter

Can you tell if the fuse is out or the wing? You might be able to slide the other wing on upside down to at least see if the gap is uniform the entire length of the wing root. Sounds like you might have a bulge in the fuse (maybe the ply tabs didn't go into the notch when assembled) or the wing is really out of whack...

Jack

Jeff Boyd 2

Is the gap WITH the nylon captive bolts fitted, or just with the wings pushed in? Do the captive bolt holes line up?

My wings have small gaps too (one worse than the other. Could be 3mm . . haven't checked)

I flew mine for the first time today (2 flights prior to our local Pattern contest). I was THAT happy with it I was going to fly it in the first round, but the wind came up so reverted to the 2M Glow model.

So I guess gaps don't really affect it much.

This little plane is AWESOME. Very true flying with no vices . . just does everything right. Snaps the best of any plane I have flown to date (including my IMPACT).

I have the recommended linear mix for KE, but I will be taking it out. Mine doesn't need it. It will fly straight uplines, downlines, KE, full/low throttle with NO mixes. I can't believe how "locked in" and solid it feels, and the down lines are surprisingly slow. Lands like a baby too. Very impressed ! !

Set up is:
Hyperion Z4025 486kV Outrunner (bolts straight in with no mods)
Hyperion OPTO 80 ESC
ZIPPY-R 21C-32C 5S 3700
APC 15x8E (will probably go to 15x10E)
1100W

Will do vertical snaps and rolling vertical 'S' with this set-up :-)

Do I like it ???? YES ! A LOT ! !

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks guys, I will make those double checks. And thanks Jeff, the gaps not having affect is what I was wondering.

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

O.K. I checked and tried to install the wing holding screws, but it turns out that BOTH wing bolt holes are slightly off. It would have been better (or at least an easier fix) if they had used the standard "bolt into the wing" method.

I don't think this will affect the gap issue though, since the wings are firmly against the fuse.

Jeff Boyd 2

I checked the gaps . . left wing is pretty good. Right wing has about 3mm gap at the LE that tapers back to 0 approx 40mm back . . and about 2mm at the TE tapering to 0 approx 70mm from the TE (meets the fuse in the centre). I am confident that it doesn't affect flying that you could notice.

I flew the Angel again last night (as I only have 3 weeks to learn F3A schedule before the Aust Masters ). Fine trimming may require a thrust angle change, but as it is not much, I will wait to try a couple of other props before playing with this.

My set up flies the PO-9 F3A schedule using approx 1900mAh at a scale 2M speed. Quite nice.
Hyperion Z4025 486kV Outrunner (bolts straight in with no mods)
Hyperion OPTO 80 ESC
ZIPPY-R 21C-32C 5S 3700
APC 15x8E

Cheers, JB

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Jeff,

Sounds like ours have similar gaps and it is not an issue. I will start gluing and correcting shortly!

Thanks checking yours.

BaldEagel

Guys

I have flown mine extensivly over the winter and found that the incidence pins on the wing begin to get very loose in their locating holes after a while, so I have put reinforcing rings of carbon plate on the inside of the fus to take up the slack, a much tighter fit and possible only needed to be done once using carbon plate.

Mike

BaldEagel

Move your servo horn around one spline to give a right angle too the push rod and then fine position with your sub-trim in the Tx.

Mike

BaldEagel

Sorry to put three replies in a row, but I have only just seen this thread:

The canopy fixing will not take an all out snap roll, mine came off twice, I have since put a slide pin canopy latch in the top of the canopy that pins into the rear deck former, bent the exposed sliding part at right angles above the canopy, this gives me a handle to take the canopy off with.

Did not mention I am using an AXI 4130/16 and Flight Power 4350 6S, but using the Hacker ESC as its a stepping BEC and will take the load from the digital servo's.

I also converted one to IC for a friend of mine, using a fuel regulator to get the tank back onto the C of G, all up weight is similar with a full tank, but can be floated in for landing once the fuel is used up, the electric version just takes longer to slow down if you wish to land slower so a bigger circuit is needed to allow for the plane to slow down, never had a problem with any type of stall in slow flight, it just seems to fly in very slow and nose high, perfect plane for F3A practice during the winter.

Mike

jijohans

How long fligth times do you have? On what battery? Is the Hacker A50 -16s a good choice on 6S, was thinking of 6S 4350FP and 16*10 prop...

Jeff Boyd 2

I think it would be fine. 4350mAh is a bit heavy for my liking. I am running 3700 and 5S and it weighs 2.5kg (5.5lbs) Really wouldn't want mine much heavier, however it would still be quite OK.

Cheers, JB

Jeff Boyd 2

WOW . . can't imagine mine doing that ! I have only flown it 10 times so far (8 of those were P-09 schedules . . including extra vertical down and 45deg negative snap practice) and it's been OK. I even have trouble breaking the magnetism when removing the canopy . . thinking that I might break the canopy before the magnetism sometimes. Maybe the magnet strengths vary, or get weaker? Or yours could be set in to the frame deeper??

I have put a piece of clear tape over the magnets too (just incase they vibrated against each other in flight and make some kind of RF noise . . can never bee too careful . . changed to a nylon tailwheel bracket for the same reason.)

Cheers, JB

jfetter

I fly 6S 5350's in mine with a Hacker A50 12L turning a 17 x 10, vertical is unlimited and I typically put in 2700 - 3200 mAh after a 10 minute flight...

Jack

P-51B

My Feedback: (5)

Interesting. Mine is still in assembly, but the canopy is VERY easy to remove.

jfetter

My canopy requires two fingernails to even pry open, there is no manuever possible that would pry it loose in flight...

Jack

BaldEagel

I use an AXI 4130/16 so I can't comment on the Hacker, with the 4350FP 6S on a 16x10 APC I can get 9mins of all out holigan flying or 12mins of straight aerobatics.

My canopy also required two fingernails to pry open, eventually you will break off the lower edge of the canopy, and the rear overlapping section will also break off, be warned spare canopies are a bit like hens teeth, i.e. don't exist.

Simple sliding catch in the canopy solved the whole matter, catch secures the canopy and the bent over arm aids the removal.

Thought you may like to see a couple of pics of the IC version as well, please don't take any notice of the throttle link, it was temporary to set up the regulator.

Mike

Jeff Boyd 2

Thanks for the "heads up" . .

Might start putting a piece of tape at the canopy/rear deck joint for added security ..

JB