CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
11-19-2008, 10:32 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Thanks Skywalllker!!
here are some updates.
-some ligthening done on the fuel tank area, saved 5 grams.
-then in my opinion the fuselage is not as strong as I would like in the back area, (it should hold a YS...) so I decided to put an extra former to add some strengh and to hold a new tray for rudder servo, all maded from 1/8 balsa an glass cloth on both sides. I hope this works out fine, I´m hoping to not add any weigth, I´m not going to use the standard servo tray for the rudder (it was 1/8 lite plywood) and insted added this structure... well after its donde I'll see wich one is ligther.... or at least the same.
-the former and servo tray is laminated same way as previous posts, then sanded and cut all the openings.
- then started to work on the wings, some sanding to glue in place the leading edge, then glue it in place with Titebond wood glue.
-lightening holes and finishing the formers tomorrow... no dremel at 11pm... [:@]
some pictures.
here are some updates.
-some ligthening done on the fuel tank area, saved 5 grams.
-then in my opinion the fuselage is not as strong as I would like in the back area, (it should hold a YS...) so I decided to put an extra former to add some strengh and to hold a new tray for rudder servo, all maded from 1/8 balsa an glass cloth on both sides. I hope this works out fine, I´m hoping to not add any weigth, I´m not going to use the standard servo tray for the rudder (it was 1/8 lite plywood) and insted added this structure... well after its donde I'll see wich one is ligther.... or at least the same.
-the former and servo tray is laminated same way as previous posts, then sanded and cut all the openings.
- then started to work on the wings, some sanding to glue in place the leading edge, then glue it in place with Titebond wood glue.
-lightening holes and finishing the formers tomorrow... no dremel at 11pm... [:@]
some pictures.
11-20-2008, 11:06 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Today I finished the formers and rudder servo tray, opened the ligthening holes, and it worked!!!!!, the servo tray suplied in the kit weigths 21 grams, my complete structure weights 18 grams, so I saved some weight and give some strengh to the fuselage.
then placed averything inside ang glue in place with epoxy and microballons.
later added two little pieces of 1/16 plywood to give extra support to the servo mounting screws.
pictures....
then placed averything inside ang glue in place with epoxy and microballons.
later added two little pieces of 1/16 plywood to give extra support to the servo mounting screws.
pictures....
11-21-2008, 10:54 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
thanks Jim!
yes I have templates and drawings for all the formers.
if you need them just let me know.
TUNY
yes I have templates and drawings for all the formers.
if you need them just let me know.
TUNY
11-22-2008, 12:30 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
more work done...
wings leading edge.
not much to tell, sand, sand, sand..... then more sanding. And when you think you`re done... nooooo, the other wing half.
I think more work tomorrow.. terrible weather here this weekend, so no practice for me... [:@] and only a week left for Tangerine...
pictures.
wings leading edge.
not much to tell, sand, sand, sand..... then more sanding. And when you think you`re done... nooooo, the other wing half.
I think more work tomorrow.. terrible weather here this weekend, so no practice for me... [:@] and only a week left for Tangerine...
pictures.
11-23-2008, 01:51 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
some advances today.
trailing edges, I added 1/16 balsa to seal the trailing edges, glued with thin CA, then sanded to shape.
next, wingtips.. my choice, no SFG's.... why? I just dont like them. to me they look terrible, and I prefer ligther wing tips, I think this helps in better snaps.
just my opinion, I'm not saying they dont work.
anyway, some lightening on the wingtip balsa blocks, (saved about 2 grams on each side) then glue them to the wings with titebond wood glue.
pictures.
trailing edges, I added 1/16 balsa to seal the trailing edges, glued with thin CA, then sanded to shape.
next, wingtips.. my choice, no SFG's.... why? I just dont like them. to me they look terrible, and I prefer ligther wing tips, I think this helps in better snaps.
just my opinion, I'm not saying they dont work.
anyway, some lightening on the wingtip balsa blocks, (saved about 2 grams on each side) then glue them to the wings with titebond wood glue.
pictures.
11-25-2008, 11:10 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
More work done.. wing tips sanded to shape, then installed the wing tube sleeves on the wings
-first I made end caps to the wing tubes, these are only to avoid the glue to get inside the tube.
-then marked the correct amount of the tube that goes into the wing, (there are two plywood ribs inside the wing, the tube has to pass thru both of them, but the distance pass the second rib is just weight, so I marked the exact lenght.
-finally very litle epoxy and lots of microbaloons hod the tube in place, it's only needed to hold them to the plywood ribs, any exess glue is just weigth.
-next i glued the 3/16 balsa wing root rib, (first some sanding to get them even and lose some weight) glued in with titebond.
-then make trailing edges for the stabs, and sanding the leading edges (I glued them in post number 1) sanded the stabs and glued the stab tips with titebond.
pictures....
-first I made end caps to the wing tubes, these are only to avoid the glue to get inside the tube.
-then marked the correct amount of the tube that goes into the wing, (there are two plywood ribs inside the wing, the tube has to pass thru both of them, but the distance pass the second rib is just weight, so I marked the exact lenght.
-finally very litle epoxy and lots of microbaloons hod the tube in place, it's only needed to hold them to the plywood ribs, any exess glue is just weigth.
-next i glued the 3/16 balsa wing root rib, (first some sanding to get them even and lose some weight) glued in with titebond.
-then make trailing edges for the stabs, and sanding the leading edges (I glued them in post number 1) sanded the stabs and glued the stab tips with titebond.
pictures....
11-27-2008, 11:37 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
More work.
wing matched to fuse shape.
wing adjuster tube glued in the wing.
wing hold screw, I mounted a 1/8 plywood disc to the wing root to accept the 1/4x20 nylon mounting screw
pictures.
wing matched to fuse shape.
wing adjuster tube glued in the wing.
wing hold screw, I mounted a 1/8 plywood disc to the wing root to accept the 1/4x20 nylon mounting screw
pictures.
11-28-2008, 12:02 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Again - nice work Tuny. I have 13 flights on mine now and it is a "show-stopping" plane for sure. It flys sensational. I moved my 3.0 oz battery from the wing tube, to the wing-adjuster area. With my setup, Left rudder needs zero mix to elevator, Right rudder has 2% down mix to elevator.
Low-rate rudder, which can still perform a commanding knife-edge loop, is 1.128" swing each direction, measured at the top of the rudder. Roll mix is 10%. Sounds like a lot, but it really isn't because it is porportional to the rudder throw (which is very little), so it is artificially a high number. I will probabaly try a point mix later on with the roll-mix, but for now, considering the contest is next weekend, I'm more than pleaed with the overall result!!!!!!!!!
Dare I say, this is the "glow" plane that flies like an electric. The speed envelope is quite wide. The YS 170 wih 18x10, and velocity stack, is a perfect match. However, due to the fragility of the fuselage, you MUST make sure the engine is properly tuned, and not rich on the low end. Even a rich setting could get the motor swinging enough to kiss the chinn and fuse, because it is narrow in the front. I think the velcoity stack also smooths-out the lowend and this is a nice thing for this plane.
So far though, no excessive vibration, no broken glue joints, no loose stab, nothing bad (knocking on wood desk).
Thanks,
Jim
Low-rate rudder, which can still perform a commanding knife-edge loop, is 1.128" swing each direction, measured at the top of the rudder. Roll mix is 10%. Sounds like a lot, but it really isn't because it is porportional to the rudder throw (which is very little), so it is artificially a high number. I will probabaly try a point mix later on with the roll-mix, but for now, considering the contest is next weekend, I'm more than pleaed with the overall result!!!!!!!!!
Dare I say, this is the "glow" plane that flies like an electric. The speed envelope is quite wide. The YS 170 wih 18x10, and velocity stack, is a perfect match. However, due to the fragility of the fuselage, you MUST make sure the engine is properly tuned, and not rich on the low end. Even a rich setting could get the motor swinging enough to kiss the chinn and fuse, because it is narrow in the front. I think the velcoity stack also smooths-out the lowend and this is a nice thing for this plane.
So far though, no excessive vibration, no broken glue joints, no loose stab, nothing bad (knocking on wood desk).
Thanks,
Jim
11-28-2008, 02:31 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
thanks Jim!
I´ts great to hear that It flies that well! i´m really looking forward to get more building time ang get it done...
on mine my start setup will be, 0° stabs, +0.5°wings, and CG on the wing tube.
I still have not decided wich engine mount should I use, I have 4 options: HYDE, BUDD, ZN LINE and YS I will decide later because when I reach that point in construction one of my brios will have to donate some of his organs, and I like to have both of them ready for the most time possible.
I think I will use HYDE mount wit ZN line nosering, so far thats what I use on the brios and works perfect.
see you in a couple of days, I arrive to orlando on wednesday.
regards.
TUNY
I´ts great to hear that It flies that well! i´m really looking forward to get more building time ang get it done...
on mine my start setup will be, 0° stabs, +0.5°wings, and CG on the wing tube.
I still have not decided wich engine mount should I use, I have 4 options: HYDE, BUDD, ZN LINE and YS I will decide later because when I reach that point in construction one of my brios will have to donate some of his organs, and I like to have both of them ready for the most time possible.
I think I will use HYDE mount wit ZN line nosering, so far thats what I use on the brios and works perfect.
see you in a couple of days, I arrive to orlando on wednesday.
regards.
TUNY
12-14-2008, 12:48 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Well... I'm back!! i was having some fun at Tangerine! great time, nice contest.
after having a chance to fly Jim's Pass-port (thanks again Jim) i want to get this thing in the air ASAP!!!
so far more work on the stabs done.
-sanded the tips.
-marked and cut the elevators.
-hijacked my kitchen and checked everything is aligned.
-made end caps for the stab tubes and marked where to glue them.
-glue the stab tubes with little epoxy and lots of microbaloons to make it light. again, I only need to hold them there, the structural job is made by the plywood ribs inside, not by the glue.
-made a new 1/8 lite-plywood root rib to hold the tube and the stab adjuster.
-then marked all the openings on the root rib.
some pictures.
after having a chance to fly Jim's Pass-port (thanks again Jim) i want to get this thing in the air ASAP!!!
so far more work on the stabs done.
-sanded the tips.
-marked and cut the elevators.
-hijacked my kitchen and checked everything is aligned.
-made end caps for the stab tubes and marked where to glue them.
-glue the stab tubes with little epoxy and lots of microbaloons to make it light. again, I only need to hold them there, the structural job is made by the plywood ribs inside, not by the glue.
-made a new 1/8 lite-plywood root rib to hold the tube and the stab adjuster.
-then marked all the openings on the root rib.
some pictures.
12-14-2008, 11:47 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
More...
-cut all the openings for the rrot rib and the stab adjuster mount.
-stab adjusters mounted in place with 2-56 screws.
-glue the stab adjusters to the stab root rib.
-removed some foam on the stab to make room for the adjuster.
-glued the root rib to the stab and sanded to shape.
-finally checked that I have a good fit to the fuse.
pics.
-cut all the openings for the rrot rib and the stab adjuster mount.
-stab adjusters mounted in place with 2-56 screws.
-glue the stab adjusters to the stab root rib.
-removed some foam on the stab to make room for the adjuster.
-glued the root rib to the stab and sanded to shape.
-finally checked that I have a good fit to the fuse.
pics.
12-15-2008, 10:21 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
more work done today.
-Stabs trailing edges centered and glued in place with titebond wood glue.
-made holes for adjusting the stabs using a sharpened brass tube.
-opened the holes in the fuselage for the anti rotation pin and servo wires, the anti rotation pin is 1/8 carbon rod.
-made 1/8 plywood reinforcement guides for the carbon pin in the fuselage.
-cut the stab tube to length
-sanded the stabs trailing edges.
-checked everyting is aligned.
pics.
-Stabs trailing edges centered and glued in place with titebond wood glue.
-made holes for adjusting the stabs using a sharpened brass tube.
-opened the holes in the fuselage for the anti rotation pin and servo wires, the anti rotation pin is 1/8 carbon rod.
-made 1/8 plywood reinforcement guides for the carbon pin in the fuselage.
-cut the stab tube to length
-sanded the stabs trailing edges.
-checked everyting is aligned.
pics.
12-16-2008, 02:10 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Hi Tuny
have followed your build nice work!
you have used a carbone rod as a anti rotation pin , you not worried about the screws in the adjuster will work thoer way into the rod or maybe split it?
have followed your build nice work!
you have used a carbone rod as a anti rotation pin , you not worried about the screws in the adjuster will work thoer way into the rod or maybe split it?
12-16-2008, 12:35 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Hi Tune
I agree with Rune on his comment on carbon anti rotation pin, lots of vibration back their.How do you get those neat epoxy joints,do you use a special applicator or something?
My Osmose is still in the box will like to dupplicate your joints -saving weight is important.
thnx
gerrie
I agree with Rune on his comment on carbon anti rotation pin, lots of vibration back their.How do you get those neat epoxy joints,do you use a special applicator or something?
My Osmose is still in the box will like to dupplicate your joints -saving weight is important.
thnx
gerrie
12-16-2008, 05:27 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Rune, thanks!!
so far I have use the carbon pin in other planes also YS powered with no problem, the screws mark the rod were they touch it, but I have never broken one or split it. but i see what you mean, I usualy change the rod every now and then just in case.
gerrie the epoxy joints, easy..... just use your finger to remove any exess and to get it even. and always use microbaloons.
THANKS!
TUNY
so far I have use the carbon pin in other planes also YS powered with no problem, the screws mark the rod were they touch it, but I have never broken one or split it. but i see what you mean, I usualy change the rod every now and then just in case.
gerrie the epoxy joints, easy..... just use your finger to remove any exess and to get it even. and always use microbaloons.
THANKS!
TUNY
12-16-2008, 06:58 PM
#46
RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Tuny , I think thier concern is because the Osmose came with the hollow type, the solid rod will not split.
I don't why I'm writing this, I call you, jojojojo
I don't why I'm writing this, I call you, jojojojo
12-16-2008, 11:17 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
more..
-Elevators leading edges in place.
-stab servos. opened holes in the stabs to accept Futaba 9650's
-servo mounts, 1/4 balsa with 1/16 ply for servo screws reingorcement
pics.
-Elevators leading edges in place.
-stab servos. opened holes in the stabs to accept Futaba 9650's
-servo mounts, 1/4 balsa with 1/16 ply for servo screws reingorcement
pics.
12-17-2008, 03:30 AM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Tuny , I think thier concern is because the Osmose came with the hollow type, the solid rod will not split.
Thats why I normaly use shrink tube if I use carbone as pushrods , well Tuny just be careful so the bird dont fall out off the sky.
12-17-2008, 11:52 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
Rune. I always keep an eye on the pin just in case... so far, no problems.
more work.
-stab servo munts in place.
-elev sanded
-CA hinges instaled
-locate MK control horns in place. they will be mounted in a 3/8 hardwood dowel
pictures.
more work.
-stab servo munts in place.
-elev sanded
-CA hinges instaled
-locate MK control horns in place. they will be mounted in a 3/8 hardwood dowel
pictures.
12-18-2008, 10:31 PM
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RE: CAMODEL PASS-PORT BUILD (very slow)
More advances today..
I instaled the elev control horns.
-first drilled the elevs to accept the hardwood dowell and glue it with epoxy and microballons
-sanded to shape
-1/8 hole to accept control horn screws. I needed to cut about 6mm of the screws to get the correct lenght
-installed the horns.
-linkage in place, I used DU-BROball links and clevises with 2-56 rod, light and strong link.
-stabs almost finished, just final sanding and covering left....
pics.
I instaled the elev control horns.
-first drilled the elevs to accept the hardwood dowell and glue it with epoxy and microballons
-sanded to shape
-1/8 hole to accept control horn screws. I needed to cut about 6mm of the screws to get the correct lenght
-installed the horns.
-linkage in place, I used DU-BROball links and clevises with 2-56 rod, light and strong link.
-stabs almost finished, just final sanding and covering left....
pics.