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ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

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Old 07-22-2009, 10:24 PM
  #1
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Default ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Hi everyone,

I am going to do a little thread on the Xigris models that we constructed this spring. This is the C1 version which I guess would be considered conventional design. The C2 version is the same fuse but swept wings and big canalizer like the Axiome.

I got two standard ZN kits on May 25, and the models were test flown on July 1. I had a lot of help namely my good friend Nedim Bek who used to build for people, and did the Mantis kit. I am lucky to have him live close by He took the fuses and did that work, I took the wings/stab and did the wood stuff. Took about 5 weeks from start to finish.

Thanks to JP at ZN Line for getting the kits to me ASAP, it was a very last minute decision to fly this airplane.

My final setup is as follows

Motor: Pletty Evo 30-10
ESC: Schulze 32.80
Rx: Futaba 6008HS
Servos: Ail-BLS451, Ele-9650, Rud-9156
Batts: TP 5300 PL V2
Prop: Rasa 21x15 folding

RTF weight was 4860 grams, but I didn't have any stickers on it

Since this was a quick build, I may have missed some pictures. Most were taken with a cell phone so maybe not the best, but should be ok
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:36 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

First thing we did was mount the wing tube socket in the fuse. JP had pre-cut the hole very accurately in the fuse so this saved a lot of time in alignment of the wing.

Then prepare the stab tube by placing end caps on, and splitting it. Glue the socket in the stabs and use the crutch to get the angles right, and weigh it down in the shucks and let it set up.

Then align the stab to the wing, seems we forgot to take a picture of that part LOL. Once the stab is aligned you set the center socket piece and then crutch.

Once thats all set up you can finish off the rear supports, add the anti-rotation pin and glass it all over.

This was done first before any work on the wings/stabs was done. I find this preserves the exact geometry, where as if you do it after tips etc. are all mounted and sanded I don't think its as exact. The pics hopefully explain most of it.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:40 PM
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Ryan Smith
 
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

A picture is worth a thousand words- post some and you won't have to type so much!!
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:56 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Ya something happened, will redo them LOL
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:13 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Then with the alignment done I went to work on the wings/stabs, and left Nedim to the fuse. We will get back to it in a while.

First thing on the wings/stabs/rudder is to prepare capping and rough shape it with a planer and a bit of sanding.

Then I installed the moving surface capping with the parts still attached. ZN slots the wings/stabs so I put the capping in first, this allows you to easily preserve the wing/stab shape while sanding since everything is still attached. Its important to run the capping about 1 to 1.5" inboard of the aileron root to add strength to the wing.

I used poly urethane glue for all the capping as it provides the best bond to the foam.

Sand those aileron caps nice and smooth with an aluminum bar.

This is it for tonite, more tomorrow
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:52 AM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

I do love the ZN kits.. I just wish it wasn't so crazy expensive to get them shipped here.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:48 AM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

This is great Chad . . Xigris is a nice looking plane.

Are you going to try the other wings ? . . Is it a simple swap ?

Cheers, JB
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:02 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Doug

Yes they are nice kits.

I think its worth pointing out that ZN (at least on the Xigris) is outsourcing the fuselage work. I am not sure who is doing it, but if you are used to a normal ZN fuse then this is quite different.

First its a vaccuum bagged fuse similar to C-ARF, but with a glass/herex foam/glass construction. The forward portion of the fuselage is still carbon fiber. Where the wing mounts to the fuse there is a very thin wood veneer applied under the glass for extra strength when gluing wing tube socket, hold downs, adjusters etc. to the fuse.

The canopy and chin are all glass, the canopy has a foam lamination (similar to the old ZN fuses) to increase stiffness. They are very robust and not prone to easily being crushed.

The fuse is very light, mine was around 550g (no canopy or chin) which is around 200 grams lighter than any of my Twisters. Yet its still very stiff. The benefit of this type of construction vs. the foam lamination is there is no change in stiffness over the x-section of the fuse.

The other benefit is that there is no large quantity of microballon/epoxy mix to fill in corners, this really improves the overall life of the model since you don't end up with small cracks through the corners especially around the gear area that the old style of construction was occasionally prone to develop.

Also the seam on these fuses is the best I have ever seen, either its because I got very early ones and the mold is still pristine or they have just gone a good job. I have had plenty of composite fuse kits and never had one quite this good. We didn't even bother to prep it before paint, just a quick scuff over with scotchbrite pads and that was it.

The rest of the kit is of familiar construction.

JB

Possibly I will give that consideration. I don't think it would be much effort at all to fit a set of the swept wings/stab to the fuselage (provided the location does not change). JP is flying that version in Portugal, I am sure we will discuss the flying characteristics of each. Also I want to see the Axiome in person and judge for myself how it flies before I start playing around with new wings

As it stands the standard version flies very well, so there needs to be some benefit to make a switch.
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:07 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Quote:
ORIGINAL: can773
I think its worth pointing out that ZN (at least on the Xigris) is outsourcing the fuselage work. I am not sure who is doing it, but if you are used to a normal ZN fuse then this is quite different.
Heard that it is done by JM-Composite. Builder of Abbra, Leviosa, Gaudius etc.
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Old 07-23-2009, 11:47 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

The manufacturer of the fuse, is a well known manufacturer from the Czech republic.
Rgds
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:23 AM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

krill,
is the correct answer.

rgds
steve
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:44 AM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Anyway the result is a high quality kit.

Professionaly designed and built by F3A competitors

Stiff, light and quite ready to paint fuselage.

The weight with a TP-ProLite V2-20C 4350 mAh, 2x5S 20C really close to 4710 g RTF

Hope Jean-Pierre ZARDINI, the guy behind ZN LINE, will offer soon an in the mold painted version of both C1 and C2

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Old 07-24-2009, 11:14 AM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Chad, is the factory white gel coat good enough to use as a finished white and just add colours?

Or, do you have to repaint white as well?

Colin.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:43 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Hi Colin

The white on the fuse is good for the white base. We did not paint any additional white except where the seam was.

Sorry there are no updates tonite. I am in BC at a contest and only have my blackberry withh me and I can't upload pics from it to rcu.

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Old 07-25-2009, 05:18 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

I wonder how solid the canalizer is on the C2 version being mounted to the canopy? I think CPLR moved his from the canopy a little futher aft to the fuse because it moved too much.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:47 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Ok back to it!

Next I went to the stab and did the elevator and root capping. The root cap is placed first before you open up the slot to slide in the elevator capping

In order to do the root capping you must place the adjuster hardpoints in place. These are simply 1/8" lite ply pieces included in the kit, and require a small amount of shaping to get them to fit in place. 5 minute epoxy is good here.

The root cap is 1/8" balsa, and should be supported by a thicker piece when taping so as to not deform it from the tape. Once that has setup, do the elevator capping the same as the aileron. Again all polyurethane glue on the capping.

Once that has setup, you can rough shape everything.

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Old 07-29-2009, 09:54 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Now I went back to the wing to place the root rib. This is included in the kit and has three holes, two for wing attachment and one for the adjuster socket. The sheeting overhangs the root a little bit so it takes a bit of shaping of the root rib prior to installation to ensure it fits.

I placed 1/4"-20 nylon bolts through the root rib and CA'd them in place. Then I counter sunk the foam a little where the head of the nylon bolt will sit and finally used polyurethane to attach the rib to the foam/sheeting. Care needs to be taken to ensure you are holding the rib down while the glue is expanding, some balsa pieces help here.

Sand the overhanging sheeting flush with the rib when its setup.

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Old 07-29-2009, 09:59 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Next, I took a trip back to Nedim's place to join the wing to the fuse and make the fillet so the fit was nice.

Since the wing is pretty low in the fuse its hard to get the wing to fit just perfect, so you need to build up a bit with epoxy/microballons.

Lay down some wax paper and hold it in place, mix up a good thick batch of epoxy/microballons so that it wont run. Get a small plastic baggie and cut the corner slightly, place in your epoxy mix, and then use the baggie like a icing tube that they use for cakes to place a nice bead of epoxy along the wing root where it does not match the fuse.

Place the wing on the tube against the fuse, and scrape off the excess glue, and let it setup until cured fully.

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Old 07-29-2009, 10:06 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Next was to do the servo boxes in the wings. I hate these so they are as simple as I can make them LOL

All 1/8" balsa, with 1/8" ply rails and 1/4" sq balsa underneath for support. Because the model is electric I am not as concerned about the rails being sunk into the sides of the boxes. If the model were glow I would make these more solid.

Since I am doing 4 wings at once, I made all the pieces in one shot, basically with a table disc/belt sander. I bench assemble the boxes with CA, then make sure they fit the pre-cut holes in the wings, and basically put poly-u glue on them and drop them in place, then finish sand to the surface afterwards.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:20 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

I spent a lot of time pondering the stab servos, I didn't really want the head of the servo sticking out, so that forced me into a horizontal installation.

So, I basically installed a false rib made of 3/32 aircraft ply into the stab where the servo would mount. This took a bit of figuring with one stab to get the shape, servo cutout etc. just right before I made the rest of the ribs.

In order to have a nice surface for covering you want the rib to be just slightly smaller than the surface of the stab skin so that you have filler there to sand. But not so small that you dont glue to the skin, so with only a 1/16" skin you don't have much room.

So first cut the slot in the stab through on both sides, be accurate. Then use a dremel with a router attachment and a long zip style bit to bore out the slot from the root rib so you have access to the servo. Only remove as much material as is required to get the servo in and out, so that your root rib has as much bonding area as possible.

Once thats all done up, glue in the root rib carefully with polyurethane. Sand the excess down when its cured.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:25 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

At this point I quickly did the rudder capping, I didn't get any pics since its just the same as the rest.

Also do all the TE capping, this is a shot of the rudder being done. I use 1/16" balsa for all the TE caps, and be sure to support it with a heavier piece of balsa to prevent distortion.

Before you ask about the odd rudder TE I will get to that later

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Old 07-29-2009, 10:35 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Now its time to do the hardpoints for the control horns. Depending on exactly what you use this may be a little different for everyone. I used ZN horns, so I simply used the supplied 1/8" lite ply bases that get sunk into the surface.

I use a dremel tool with the router/depth control attachment to precisely mill out the correct slot for the hardpoint. Before I start I score the edges with a sharp razor blade in order to ensure a clean cut along the edges.

When the slots are all cut then glue in the hardpoints with poly-u, be sure to clamp them in place as close as possible to the surface to minimize sanding. Using balsa blocks helps to get things flush.

I basically randomly took pictures, but each surface is essentially the same process.



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Old 07-29-2009, 10:46 PM
  #23
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Now its time to separate the surfaces. After separation you will need to bevel back the elevator (ignore the fact that the hardpoint is not in that picture, I got a little ahead of myself when I was bored) to allow for the throw of the rudder. I simply used 1/16" balsa. Again back it up with thicker balsa when taping to avoid distortion and sand smooth when done. You should leave a bit of room between the aileron and wing so its not too tight after covering.

The last picture is a little further along, but shows what the root cap on the elevator looks like.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:59 PM
  #24
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Then its time to start beveling everything.

I mark down the centerline, then use a bit of trig to determine where the bevel should intersect the surface at the root and tip, and then place a strip of tape along that line for a guide. I do most of the beveling with a planer, and a sharp blade and a lot of patience, and only do a very light final sand. The only trick is the hardpoint, I usually bevel around it and then get it close with the belt sander and finally match it with a sanding bar to the rest of the surface.

If you are careful you can get a bevel that is gapless when deflected.

My typical throws for beveling are,

Ailerons - 25 degrees up/down
Elevator - 20 degrees up/down
Rudder - 35 degrees.

I also always double bevel both surface and fixed part, 10 degrees on the fixed part and the makeup on the movable part.
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:02 PM
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Default RE: ZN Line Xigris Build Thread

Once that is done, I do the hinging, and check that the bevels fit nice and give enough throw.

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