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  1. #126

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Not mounting the canopy is obviously a money saving item, also everyone has their preference, from screws to quick latches (to tape). The factory does a good job in the belly pan alignment so I wouldn't have minded them doing the canopy as well, however they attached it

    The rudder tray I agree should be in place. No big deal if we were installng it in the main canopy area but it is behind the canopy. See post #24 in this thread. The tray is oversized and difficult to install. I almost split the fuse with a trial fit. This should be installed just like the other internal fuse parts during construction. Much easier to install in one hlaf before putting the fuse halves together.

    Please weigh your fuse parts and see if they differ much from mine (Beginning of this thread). The weight is fine for glow but just marginal for electric. I build light and chose many lighter items for the build and still came in a few grams over. The wings are actually where weight could be saved with standard foam/balsa construction. I like the hard surface of the composite wings however.

    Good luck with your build it actually goes together pretty quickly.

    Stuart

  2. #127

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Hello,
    I am building an electric Valiant.
    I would like to install quick latches to the canopy, could somebody help with some ideas and photos of a home made system?
    I donยดt want to buy them in Japan.

    regards,
    Patricio.

  3. #128

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant


    ORIGINAL: pattratt

    Rudder 9156
    aileron 9154
    Elevator 9650

    Beautiful Kit!!

    Dick

    Dick,

    Those are all good servos, unless you want to go brushless.

    The 9156 is a good one for rudder. If you want more torque, you can go with the replacement - the 9157 - that's what I'm using on my planes.

    Adrian

  4. #129

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Hey Stuart

    Here is the weight break down.
    I have a ACCU Tec 1200 scale and a complete set of gram weights from 1 gram to 1000 gram and completed a calibration prior to doing the weighing so I feel pretty confident these are accurate to .05 gram.

    Gear - L=63.7 R=64.3
    Fuse - 719.1
    Canopy - 139.6
    Cheek Cowl - 101.4
    Wings - L=416 R=402.1
    Wing Tube -107.9
    Rudder - 73.5
    Stabs - L=119 R=123.9
    Stab Tube - 15.4
    Wheel Pants - L=16.2 R=15.8

    The Rudder servo former is a real pain not being installed because it is no-where near the correct size? I will make a balsa template of the original and then cut and sand until I get the proper fit then use it as a template to cut the actual former to size. The canopy is very lite and fits well but I am concerned about "cracking" from vibration so I plan on using two nylon screws forward, two compression "L" shaped tabs center, and 2 pins at the rear. Then I will use a a very thin layer of silicone on the canopy frame. This will isolate canopy from vibration and keep it from moving around.

    Dick

  5. #130

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Your fuse and canopy are a little lighter than mine, the belly pan (cheek cowl?) is 24 gms heavier though. The rest is pretty close.
    Stuart

  6. #131

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Hi Dick and Patricio

    here is the system I did for Jon Martin in the build manual
    it`s a copy of the Nishioka quick release system from wood and a steel wire

    Cowling with Quick disconnect,, from the yet to be published manual LOL,


    You can use your own method of installing the cowling for the glow
    version. The rear pins are already installed at the factory, with a
    front screw in place. However, the front screw will interfere with
    the glow engine, so it will have to be removed and another hold down
    method used.
    In this example, I will show you how to make a wood version of the
    Japanese cowling quick disconnect. The front screw is installed for
    the electric version but, again, this will interfere with the engine
    on a YS. So, it will have to be removed and the flashing ground away.

    Using the supplied instructional photoโ€™s, build a couple of pin
    latches for the disconnect system. Use a spring steel wire and bend
    it to the necessary shape. Relieve the fuse sides near the firewall
    to allow the latches to be installed square to the firewall, and
    then screw the setup to the firewall. Using 5mm aircraft ply, cut
    out some triangle stand offs for the pins holders. Using 2.5mm or
    6-32 screws, file the heads round so they can move the spring wire
    as it is inserted in the latch. Remember to drill the holes in the
    latch equal to the size of the insert screws.
    Cut spacers to insert under the standoffs, keeping them vertical to
    the cowling on the fuse, and test fit the standoffs to make sure
    they touch the cowling sides (you may have to adjust the wood
    cowling alignment inserts installed at the factory in the middle of
    the cowling, for enough slack to be easily installed) After test
    fitting, use a thixotropic epoxy glue mix and glue the standoffs to
    the cowling. You will have to cut out cooling exit holes in the rear
    of the cowling, see the supplied photos.

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  7. #132

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    here is how you can mount the rudder tray
    It`s tricky But the best way is to cut 1/8 inch off of each side and test fit ,,sand a little ECT.

    from the Manual,

    I recommend, for best results, using Futabaโ„ข BLS Brushless servos,
    or an equivalent. For elevator halves, use the BLS 651,or the BLS 351`s for ailerons
    use the BLS 551. On rudder, use a 200-inch ounce servo for the most consistent results.
    For clevises on the glow models, I recommend the Tetraโ„ข, Central
    Hobbiesโ„ข or MK โ„ข BB clevises where possible, for all surfaces and
    Central Hobbiesโ„ข Carbon/Titanium push rod systems. It is important
    to have as little linkage slack or looseness as possible, for the
    best trimming, flying and durable results. Remember, quality servos
    produce quality results!

    RUDDER TRAY<
    #1 Test fit the tray, in the rear edge of the canopy opening. It
    will need to be cut down slightly to fit the fuse properly (warning
    do not force fit; it can ruin the outer finish and break the fragile
    sides) Open the slotted area in the former slightly and trim the
    tray, to allow for some adjusting. There may be some modification
    required.
    #2 When the tray has a good fit, install it parallel to the angle
    that the cables will run down the fuse, and exit in the rear. Then,
    using a pencil, draw a light line on the fuse to mark where the tray
    will rest.
    #3 Next, remove the tray and add balsa strips 3mm below the line marked, and glue them in with CA or quick hardening epoxy.
    #4 Reinstall the tray and glue it in on the rails, using CA or half
    hour epoxy.
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  8. #133

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    #1 Cut out a 82mm diameter disk 4 to 4.5 mm thick to make a spacer
    for hanging the engine from the nose ring. Hold the fuselage vertical.
    Insert the engine in the fuse, and install the spacer disk /spinner
    on the engine and hang it centered on the nose of the airframe.
    #2 From the rear, insert the motor mount up to the motor and screw
    it to the motor

    #3 Slide the firewall to the motor mount, making sure the alignment
    of the engine is still true. Realign if required and then tack glue
    the firewall to the fuse with cyanoacrylate glue (C/A), so it can be
    handled a little without becoming dislodged easily.

    #4 VERY IMPORTANT, turn the engine off centered, looking at the
    nose, 6mm to the left and tack glue the motor mount to the firewall.
    This will give a little extra room for engine backfires

    #5 Remove the motor, but leave the motor mount tack glued to the
    firewall.

    #6 Mix some 2-hour epoxy, along with carbon/graphite powder for a
    thickening agent. Dam the front side of the motor mount with tape so
    the epoxy wonโ€™t seep through. Turn the fuse on its nose and, using
    an applicator or a brush, apply the glue to the firewall.
    When the firewall glue is completely hardened, drill the holes in
    the motor mount through the firewall and install the blind nuts.
    Relieve the flashing on the engine compartment so the motor cannot
    touch or rub. See the photos.
    Drill the relief hole for the needle valve and fuel elbowโ€™s to
    complete the installation.
    After the motor is installed, install the exhaust system. Add a
    piece of 2mm plywood across the inside of the fuse where the
    mounting for the pipe disconnects. Screw in for rigidity and noise
    reduction.
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  9. #134

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    oops, pics
    glow fire wall engine install
    Bryan
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  10. #135

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    last five for fire wall
    Bryan
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  11. #136

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Now let start on the Canopy.

    #1 Install the supplied hooks a little beyond the middle of the
    canopy facing forward, using a thixotropic epoxy mix.
    #2 After this is hardened, measure and cut receptacle holes for the
    hooks in the fuse side canopy flashing. Fit the canopy, adjust, and
    glue the phenolic U receptacle in place as a catch and alignment
    socket. They will need to be trimmed to fit close to the fuse sides.
    #3 Use a canopy latch like the BVMโ„ข latch and glue it to the inside
    of the canopy with some thixotropic epoxy. Also, glue a piece of
    aircraft ply behind the canopy arch former as a hard point for the
    latch pin. While it is hardening, letโ€™s work on the front.
    #4 Cut out a couple of light ply rails and glue them to the
    underside of the canopy flashing on the front of the fuse, and on
    top of the canopy flashing on the canopy, using 15 minute epoxy.
    Wait for it to harden. This will help with fuse noise and rigidity.
    #5 After the rear latch is hardened, install the canopy. Find the
    rear pin indent and drill the hole for the rear latch pin.
    #6 Using a Dremelโ„ข barrel grinder, drill a hole towards the front
    of the canopy through the top skin. Then, use a 1/16 drill, after
    aligning the canopy, and precisely drill a pilot hole through the
    canopy and fuse flashing, going through the light ply rails.
    #7 Now, remove the canopy and drill the pilot hole with a 1/8"
    drill bit. Insert a piece of yellow Ny-rodยฎ and glue it in place
    with C\A from the bottom side.
    #8 Reinstall the canopy and, using a self-tapping screw, screw the
    canopy down to the fuse for a final fit test.

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  12. #137

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    more canopy pics
    Bryan
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  13. #138

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Fuel Tank formers and rear former

    These formers are installed for two reasons; fuselage rigidity, and
    as a trouble free tank mount. Once the tank is installed, it cannot be removed; with out difficulty so, install them such that
    the tank is centered on the wing tube. Depending on the size tank you use, they will need to be modified
    slightly. It is best suited for the Tetraโ„ข Crank Tank, 16-20 ounce.

    You will need to get the tank off of the floor, so;
    #1 Make a couple pieces of 2mm light ply bridges, to close the gap
    on the formers and get the tank off the floor.
    #2 Cut some medium fuel tubing length-ways as a cushion; wrap it
    around the formers and test fit the tank, making sure it is tight
    enough such that the tank does not easily move.
    #3 At this point, you can decide if you want to leave the tank
    formers high as is; to build a receiver tray on top or, cut the
    formers such that the tray top goes under the wing tube. Do
    whichever is more convenient to your radio set up; 2.4GHz or 72 MHz.
    What ever you decide, over or under, glue the tray to the tube where
    it intersects; it is an integral part of the structure of the center
    fuse.
    #4 After you are satisfied with the tank fit, install the tank
    with the front former attached and in place, then slip the rear one
    in place and adjust the fit. Glue it to the fuse using C\A or 15-
    minute epoxy, making sure the formers fit precisely, or it can leave
    a bulge in the skin on the undersurface.
    #5 Trim and adjust the rear phenolic U former in the rear, under
    the rear wing pin, using 15 min epoxy, with micro balloons or carbon
    powder
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  14. #139

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Just pics
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  15. #140

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant


    ORIGINAL: flyncajun

    Just pics

    Hi flyncajun,

    Which is the fuselage.. that is shown in this post... is it composite or balsa built ?
    I will say it only once Yak 54 the best aerobatic plane ever made.

  16. #141

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    more pics, some from Portugal one of a Raiko Potter Impact, A new Oxai Model and a sleepy ,worn out, flyin machine LOL
    Bryan
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  17. #142

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    that is the balsa/ foam Plug for the Valiant before glass
    Bryan
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  18. #143

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant


    ORIGINAL: flyncajun

    that is the balsa/ foam Plug for the Valiant before glass
    Bryan
    you mean to say this was made as a positive to make the negative mold of this model? how did you built it can we get to see some more pictures of it.

    I will say it only once Yak 54 the best aerobatic plane ever made.

  19. #144

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    I believe most are...
    It is the easiest to make changes on, before the Final
    Exspensive molds are made>>??

    It is interesting that Comp-arfs do not blend in the seams?
    Is it because they are painted in the mold??

    I know that this is the case on ALL Comp-arf's....
    If you can\'\'\'\'t dazzle em with brilliance,baffle em with BS

  20. #145

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Yes they are painted in the mold so a seam is there. I t would take a lot of man hour and skill to fill and repaint the seam. I never liked it either but I just can't see it when the palne is flying If I wanted to paint my own scheme and bought a basic white version I would fill the seam then.
    Stuart

  21. #146

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Yes this airplane is totaly painted in the mold thats why you see the seams

    The old school way of making a kit is to build a plug ,,get it as perfect as you can them cast molds of of that,
    The new way is to CNC the plugs then make molds ,,,there are some who cnc the molds But thats very expensive, There are many ways to do it but in modeling
    the best way is usually centered around $

    I was Blessed to Have Mark Hunt and Mike Hester help on this project , Mark did the CAD work for the wings and Stabs and Mike and Melissa, cut some very nice foam for the project.


    I`m very picky but ,, I`m getting lazy in my old age and the seam just don`t seem to bother me much these days LOL esspecially when I can cram one of these in the air in a week or two.
    You can`t deny that the Scheme is Striking!! how they were able to produce that Scheme after I drew it amazed me ,,,they didn`t want to,,
    But it was so beautiful it captivated them , and challenged them,,and now it`s the factory`s all time favorite scheme.

    My new Web site will be up in a few weeks, I Hope ,, and I will have build pictures and how to`s on how I do things ,,,not alway conventional LOL
    But I hope to share Ideas about Building ,,sharing new projects, and of coarse, Trimming
    and may Be other Great modelers like Matt K. and Others who are Master in the Hobby.

    Bryan
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    CKAero.net Team YS, Futaba, cool power, Central hobbies, Hyde Mounts, contra, xtreme composites

  22. #147

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant


    ORIGINAL: flyncajun

    Yes this airplane is totaly painted in the mold thats why you see the seams

    The old school way of making a kit is to build a plug ,,get it as perfect as you can them cast molds of of that,
    The new way is to CNC the plugs then make molds ,,,there are some who cnc the molds But thats very expensive, There are many ways to do it but in modeling
    the best way is usually centered around $

    I was Blessed to Have Mark Hunt and Mike Hester help on this project , Mark did the CAD work for the wings and Stabs and Mike and Melissa, cut some very nice foam for the project.


    I`m very picky but ,, I`m getting lazy in my old age and the seam just don`t seem to bother me much these days LOL esspecially when I can cram one of these in the air in a week or two.
    You can`t deny that the Scheme is Striking!! how they were able to produce that Scheme after I drew it amazed me ,,,they didn`t want to,,
    But it was so beautiful it captivated them , and challenged them,,and now it`s the factory`s all time favorite scheme.

    My new Web site will be up in a few weeks, I Hope ,, and I will have build pictures and how to`s on how I do things ,,,not alway conventional LOL
    But I hope to share Ideas about Building ,,sharing new projects, and of coarse, Trimming
    and may Be other Great modelers like Matt K. and Others who are Master in the Hobby.

    Bryan


    Hi flyncajun,

    I have a design in my mind for quite long time that i designed & want to make a fiberglass model for it, how should i go for it.. should i build a model out of balsa & foam high gloss & then take a negative of it? i want to make it fast in less time will make around 10 to 12 planes of the similar design & any suggestions on this would be great.

    Thanks,
    High
    I will say it only once Yak 54 the best aerobatic plane ever made.

  23. #148

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    High fly,

    I would recommend that you build a wood proto first ,put the development in that one ,and shake down the issues on the proto
    Then if it flys well , you can make another or decomission that one ,and make molds from it,I saw Mike Harrison do this before.

    I don`t want to get into making molds in this thread,way to complicated , and there are way too many ways you can do it.
    You can search the composite forum and get that info,

    Is it Fun to have your own design,,yes is it a lot of work ,More than you know,, is it worth it ,,Well it all depends on the outcome.
    It`s at least a 6 month process working till 2am every morning ,,,working day and night and weekends,, neglecting house,and wife,
    spending about 2-3 times the money that what it would take to buy one, and if it flys bad ,,,the only thing you have is experiance.

    If your willing to throw lots of money away ,,for a lesson that might or might not pan out in the end ,By all means don`t let no one stop you.
    and follow your passion ,don`t be afraid to scew up!
    and most of all ,don`t listen to the nay sayers, and get it done.

    We need more modelers in the world trying out there skills ,and creating new Airplanes from a dream.
    Everybody had to start somewhere your going to mess up, But let it motivate you and it will allow you to get creative and overcome your screw up`s
    The guys who hide and overcome there screw ups always get done faster than the guys looking for perfection.
    Bryan
    CKAero.net Team YS, Futaba, cool power, Central hobbies, Hyde Mounts, contra, xtreme composites

  24. #149

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Hey Bryan...
    Loved the article in AMA mag...
    But hasn't been anymore....
    What is the deal??...Too busy building!!!!

    ONly Problem with this fuel setup, is that I don't think YOu will be able
    to take it on a PLANE with you!!

    It looks a-bit menacing!
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    If you can\'\'\'\'t dazzle em with brilliance,baffle em with BS

  25. #150

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    RE: Comp ARF Valiant

    Kochj,Thanks

    I just recieved my latest AMA Mag and the middle part of my Trim Article is in there.
    the remainder (the best part)will be run in two months ,,, Al just had too much for this month

    Well that pic, is a picture of Glen Watson`s airplane I don`t think he plans of putting on a airplane
    But if he did , he could just remove the tank
    If you think that looks good you should watch him fly,

    Bryan
    CKAero.net Team YS, Futaba, cool power, Central hobbies, Hyde Mounts, contra, xtreme composites


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