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Comp ARF Valiant

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Old 03-15-2010, 09:58 AM
  #176
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

Great Dick,
I`m glad you have had good luck with your 1.7 as I recall you have always been pretty good tuning Motors

On the Battery, I would normally get 4-5 flights with the(2100)MHA Batteryon the CDI, But I have switched to the 2600.LI, that Central Hobbies now sells. same weightand size, and I can now get 8 flights safely.

Ahmed,
I`m not sure I follow your questions perfecly, but I will PM you the Trim directions for the Valiant that I wrote to go in the build instructions.
if it goes to the canopy on any manuever , your c/g is too far forward causing you to use some up trim. and effecting you nuetral ballance. depending on the weight you might have a slight pull out on the downlines only.

I would Also Like more details on you air filter ,very Clever!!
Bryan
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:08 PM
  #177
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Bryan

Thanks for the info on the battery. I will look at Central for one of these. If the weight is the same I definitely need it.

I had several issues on the Engine. With the Duralite at 7,4 volts I had to use a regulator switch [DigiSwitch] at 6v. Unknown to me [because I never read the YS directions] the ignition would not fire plugged into the receiver because it was at 6v! After I figured that out [one lost afternoon] I put a 5.85v regulator between the RX and the CDI module, which worked perfect! After some thought on this I believe the fact I am running TWO regulators may be the reason I am getting reduced flight time on the new Duralite 2150 Li-ion. I am going to order a 5.85 v regulated switch to run the RX along with the 2600 MAH battery you suggested and see if this helps.

Second issue was more difficult. The engine would start and run on a carburater prime only then die? [no fuel] After much checking of everything on the fuel system I took the pump completely apart and found a piece of what I suspect was manufacturing debris under one of the pump check valves rendering the pump useless! Debris could have come from tank line but I used a new "crap-trap" filter only several inches from the engine niple! Who knows for sure! Anyway it ran great after those issues.

On the first flight, being OLD school [key word OLD] I used a 18.1x10 APC and could not slow the aircraft down! I immediately went to the APC 19x11 for the second flight and could not believe the difference!! Only time I went to full throttle was the "cross box" straight and level to get at least a little full RPM for rod stretch and cyl/piston break-in. Really looking forward to getting this combination in the Valiant!

Dick
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:27 PM
  #178
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Now my Valiant is finally ready for the maiden I thought I would post some photos of the finished product.

The total weight is 4852 grams as shown in the photos, so there is no problem making weight with a glow engine, even a YS-170 CDI.

A few comments:

I have used Hayes Wing Saddle foam tape on the fuselage where the wing root will touch to avoid rattling. Actually the Hayes tape is two thin pieces of tape on top of each other, so if you separate the two pieces the foam will only be half as thick, which is ideal in this application.

The switch is an Emcotec DPSI Micro, and I have two 1100mAh LiPo's connected to it. CDI power is taken directly from the RX supply.

I made a new rudder horn out of fibreglass plate since the included horn will not fit properly.

The other horns are the standard phenolic horns but stiffened using 92 gram CF cloth epoxied to both sides. Has worked fine on my Integrals using the same ball-link setup without incident.

The aileron throw on my model is limited to about 20 degrees, will see if this is enough for crisp snap rolls.
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:29 PM
  #179
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

The last photos.
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:11 PM
  #180
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

Nice work Morton,

Why are your Ailerons limited to 20 Deg? that is enough to snap however,
let us know how it trims out.

Bryan
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:16 PM
  #181
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Looks like the wing skins are too long and limiting total throw.
Stuart
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:23 AM
  #182
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Hey Stuart

I have the same problem on the rudder and the elevators, The rudder was easy to fix because you can un-hinge it. I have not come up with a good method to trim the elevators as I cannot un-hinge them?? Open to suggestions!! I was able to get full rudder throw but the fix sure deseroyed the looks of the whole tail section. Not happy with any of the rudder construction techniques required to finish this aircraft. I am hoping the addititon of the "Strake" will pull my eyes away from the rudder and help the looks of the tail. If it flies as good as everyone says I am sure the rudder will look just fine!LOL

Bryan

Where did the carbon fiber wheel pants come from on Mortons kit? Mine are fiberglass. I am assuming they are aftermarket and look great and should be very durable! Also could you tell me where I might obtain the copper coated .80 Rudder hinge rod. I need a new one! [don't ask-"stupidity"]

Dick
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:05 AM
  #183
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Yes the curve in the rudder hinge line looks cool but you do have to sand too much away. I would have preferred a straight rudder hinge line or one with a counter balance like the stab and ailerons. To me the rudder is super efective requiring a lot of expo. I think the counterbalance would soften it up like the stab and aileron. They require very little expo.
Stuart
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:35 AM
  #184
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Hi Bryan,

As Stuart says the wing skins are limiting the throw both up and down. When at approx. 20 degrees the wing-skin is being deformed quite much by the aileron and this causes binding. I was thinking about cutting a slightly longer slit at the inboard edge to allow the wing skins to flex a little more... The skins also limit the elevator throw a little, however I think I can get more than enough elevator throw.

Dick:
The wheel pants are after market parts. They are a little larger than the supplied wheel pants, and hence they allow me to use 70mm MK wheels which is a good thing when flying of grass. I purchased the wheel pants at Lorenz in Germany. They are very light and seem pretty robust, however I have been told by others that pure carbon fibre wheel pants are usually quite fragile since they will not allow a lot of flexing... Time will tell how they hold up.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:35 AM
  #185
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Hey Guys I have either built or handled 7 of these airplanes and never had a problem with too much restriction on the skins,although on the last 3 I have seen they have been cut back slightly.

The only one specificly bult for me was the first one, and it`s the same as the rest.
It`s no problem if the skin rubs a little on the aileron ,or even deforms the skin surface it`s made to work that way there is flex material laminated in the skins there.But, I usually take a piece of 320 sand paper and turn the smooth side down, slip it bewteen the skins and the le of the ailerons and work it some to give clearance so they dotn rub and wear the paint off over time.

Trust me 20 deg is a lot of aileron throw on this airplane But I like it a little faster
The rudder Well ,that set up is not the Best But ,it don`t bother me much once it`s in the air.
You will never need more than 18 deg of throw either way on the elevators. My set up is 14 deg up and 18 deg down elev. max throw


Dick, you might contact the factory and see if the distributor has a new rod in stock as spare parts ,,I`m not sure where else to get one.

Bryan

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Old 03-26-2010, 08:44 AM
  #186
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Hi Morton
looking at your pictures it looks like your down aileron throw is being limited by your control horn installation this can be a problem,
and is why I did not use the kit control arms ,I sunk a dowel and tapped it for a 6/32 rod.
I would cut a relief there to allow the aileron horn to slip in .
On the elevator, I did use the supplied arms and they worked fine.
Bryan
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:48 PM
  #187
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Hi Bryan,

The aileron horn is actually not touching the skin, even though it looks like it in the photo, however after closer inspection I could see that the red paint had already rubbed off the aileron on the outer corner of the skins indicating a lot of rubbing. I have now tried sanding the skins as you recommended, especially at the outer section, and this has worked some. Also I have lengthened the inboard slit slightly to let the skin flex a little more in this area, and the result is that I can now get approx. 25 degrees of throw each way, although with a little servo buzzing... Should work OK now.

BTW this was only a problem on the left wing panel, the right panel had significantly less resistance, and actually the skins flex less on the right wing panel at the same aileron deflection.
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:47 PM
  #188
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Has anyone used NMP Axles on a 2M pattern plane?
How did they withstand wear and tear after hundreds of flights on grass/asphalt?
Would you use them again?
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:57 PM
  #189
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That is all I use with no problems.
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:07 AM
  #190
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Quote:
Also could you tell me where I might obtain the copper coated .80 Rudder hinge rod. I need a new one! [don't ask-"stupidity"]
Just guessing,but might it be the welding rod (copper covered mild steel), that is used in old-style oxy-acetylene welding?
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:54 PM
  #191
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I really like this airplane so I was wondering why it is so quiet about it! Any flight reports, happy about it, issues? I have seen sofar it is not easy to make weight with it on electrics. Maybe also some more experience on this by now?

Volkert
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:13 PM
  #192
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: ODD

Has anyone used NMP Axles on a 2M pattern plane?
How did they withstand wear and tear after hundreds of flights on grass/asphalt?
Would you use them again?
No problems. They do require a narrow wheel though.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:39 PM
  #193
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

You can read a Flight report By Brett Wickizer on my website!
Bryan
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:59 AM
  #194
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Will test fly my Valiant tomorrow weather permitting. My all-up ready to go weight came in at 10lbs. 12 ounces with a YS 170 DZ CDI. I added probably four ounces of weight "stiffening" the fuse. and reinforcing the canopy & cheek cowl against vibration fatigue cracks. Will report back after my weekend of flight trimming.

Dick
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:13 AM
  #195
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

FWIW the sig microballoons are made from phenolic resin, and are about a third the weight that the conventional white glass type
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:40 AM
  #196
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Anyone experienced or heard of catastrophic aileron flutter in the Valiant? Mine happened very quickly and violently to the point of breaking all of the hinges on one aileron, separating from the wing, dangling by the servo pushrod as it followed the airframe to the impact site. The other aileron did not separate, but completely stripped the teeth off of the servo gear. Airplane was in straight, level flight at moderate speed. Two seconds and it was over.

Linkage was tight. Central Hobbies horns and BB clevises, carbon/titanium pushrods. Dowel hardpoints mounted in the factory blocks for the horns they were completely intact after the event. Ailerons are not broken, just the hinges broke.

The servos used were the only weakness I can identify. I used Futaba 9650s trying to keep it light (build was an electric). I've used 9650s in a Focus and Shinden without issue.

Any ideas? I can't afford a repeat so I need to figure out what happened.

Steve
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:19 AM
  #197
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

Mine has been rock solid and I have not read of any problems like that, although there are not that many internat reports for the plane. I would suspect that the servos let go. Doesn't seem like enough power for those size ailerons.
Sorry to hear about it,
Stuart
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:44 AM
  #198
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

Hi Steve
Wow I`m sorry about your loss!
Flutter can happen with slop and loose servo gears so,this is what I think happend
The 9650 not a good choice for Ailerons they are known for center slop even on elevator half use.
Ive seen stripped gear from bumping them getting in and out of a car.
The gear train on these are very weak, so I`m sure it`s where your problem started
once again Sorry

I talk about this on my website in the owners set up instructions servo- linkage to the ailerons are very important
the ailerons on this airplane are large and can flutter with broken servo or linkage
Steve
let me know if I can help you in any way
Bryan
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:37 AM
  #199
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I experienced almost the same problem, but on a different airframe. I was using the Central Hobbies ball-bearing rod ends. The ends worked loose from the servos. It happened on the right first, causing it to separate, the left hung in there until I was on final, and when I tried to use rudder to complete the turn on final it resulted in a snap. I was able to recover, but only in time to impact the ground in a slightly nose-down attitude. I don't have an explanation as to why the ball-bearing rod ends came loose from the servo arms, because I didn't do anything differently other than using the Central ends as opposed to the Tettra rod ends. Stuff happens... and it stinks. Sorry for your loss. I've seen somewhere around 4 or 5 of the Valiants flying, and flown one myself, never seen or heard of a flutter issue.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:04 AM
  #200
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Default RE: Comp ARF Valiant

Hi Steve

So sorry for your loss, I also lost my Valiant by an undefined failure. (Probably by receiver failure)
Anyway, I use Futaba 9650 servos on ailerons on my current F3A model Impuls, powered by YS 1.60. Ailerons of Impuls are nearly 30 % smaller then Valiant's, but has vibration of YS.
9650 is not so bad for an electric model.
May I learn what was the max deflection of ailerons on %145 ATV of the radio ?
If it was more than 20-22 degree, that means you had an extra load on servos , so plastic gears of servo could not handle the load.

Ahmet
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