Comp ARF Valiant
02-28-2010, 08:12 AM
#151
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
ORIGINAL: flyncajun
High fly,
I would recommend that you build a wood proto first ,put the development in that one ,and shake down the issues on the proto
Then if it flys well , you can make another or decomission that one ,and make molds from it,I saw Mike Harrison do this before.
I don`t want to get into making molds in this thread,way to complicated , and there are way too many ways you can do it.
You can search the composite forum and get that info,
Is it Fun to have your own design,,yes is it a lot of work ,More than you know,, is it worth it ,,Well it all depends on the outcome.
It`s at least a 6 month process working till 2am every morning ,,,working day and night and weekends,, neglecting house,and wife,
spending about 2-3 times the money that what it would take to buy one, and if it flys bad ,,,the only thing you have is experiance.
If your willing to throw lots of money away ,,for a lesson that might or might not pan out in the end ,By all means don`t let no one stop you.
and follow your passion ,don`t be afraid to scew up!
and most of all ,don`t listen to the nay sayers, and get it done.
We need more modelers in the world trying out there skills ,and creating new Airplanes from a dream.
Everybody had to start somewhere your going to mess up, But let it motivate you and it will allow you to get creative and overcome your screw up`s
The guys who hide and overcome there screw ups always get done faster than the guys looking for perfection.
Bryan
High fly,
I would recommend that you build a wood proto first ,put the development in that one ,and shake down the issues on the proto
Then if it flys well , you can make another or decomission that one ,and make molds from it,I saw Mike Harrison do this before.
I don`t want to get into making molds in this thread,way to complicated , and there are way too many ways you can do it.
You can search the composite forum and get that info,
Is it Fun to have your own design,,yes is it a lot of work ,More than you know,, is it worth it ,,Well it all depends on the outcome.
It`s at least a 6 month process working till 2am every morning ,,,working day and night and weekends,, neglecting house,and wife,
spending about 2-3 times the money that what it would take to buy one, and if it flys bad ,,,the only thing you have is experiance.
If your willing to throw lots of money away ,,for a lesson that might or might not pan out in the end ,By all means don`t let no one stop you.
and follow your passion ,don`t be afraid to scew up!
and most of all ,don`t listen to the nay sayers, and get it done.
We need more modelers in the world trying out there skills ,and creating new Airplanes from a dream.
Everybody had to start somewhere your going to mess up, But let it motivate you and it will allow you to get creative and overcome your screw up`s
The guys who hide and overcome there screw ups always get done faster than the guys looking for perfection.
Bryan
High
03-04-2010, 07:23 AM
#154
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Are they actually two piece fuselages?
That would be the ideal way to transport biplanes, with the wings attached to the forward half fuselage, and the tailplane attached to the rear half fuselage.
Only two pieces to put together at the field.
Magne
That would be the ideal way to transport biplanes, with the wings attached to the forward half fuselage, and the tailplane attached to the rear half fuselage.
Only two pieces to put together at the field.
Magne
03-04-2010, 12:18 PM
#156
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
ORIGINAL: Magne
Are they actually two piece fuselages?
That would be the ideal way to transport biplanes, with the wings attached to the forward half fuselage, and the tailplane attached to the rear half fuselage.
Only two pieces to put together at the field.
Magne
Are they actually two piece fuselages?
That would be the ideal way to transport biplanes, with the wings attached to the forward half fuselage, and the tailplane attached to the rear half fuselage.
Only two pieces to put together at the field.
Magne
03-06-2010, 05:56 PM
#157
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
I just figured out that My AMA member ship ran out in DEC.....
Funny how if you sign up on Sept 5th, the Deadline in Sept 15th...
So I missed all the good stuff!!!
I might run to my local H. store and see if they have some old ones...
I would really like to have this plane...
I just have to convince my wife I need another plane...
Perhaps if I sell some things she will be happy....
Funny how if you sign up on Sept 5th, the Deadline in Sept 15th...
So I missed all the good stuff!!!
I might run to my local H. store and see if they have some old ones...
I would really like to have this plane...
I just have to convince my wife I need another plane...
Perhaps if I sell some things she will be happy....
03-06-2010, 06:16 PM
#158
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
ORIGINAL: kochj
I just have to convince my wife I need another plane...
Perhaps if I sell some things she will be happy....
I just have to convince my wife I need another plane...
Perhaps if I sell some things she will be happy....
. . (JOKING 
)Cheers, JB
03-07-2010, 12:29 AM
#159
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
One thing I would like to add to the building of the Valiant,
The rudder on some of the models have a restriction ,where the hinge cut outs area on the rudder is not trimmed enough. to alow full travel.
Also, the top of the fin my restrict the travel of the rudder this may need to be cut and relieved.
Included in the kit is a rudder horn But the cut out on the early models were not open enough and may actually hit the fin sides
if installed too far forward. I recommed that you just put a Hard point there in the balsa block of the rudder and install a rudder horn /thread rod style ,
fromMK, IM Japan or Central Hobby brand
For best results you want the rudder to travel almost to the elevator halves ,,if not, you may have trouble on stall turns in windy conditions.
Bryan
The rudder on some of the models have a restriction ,where the hinge cut outs area on the rudder is not trimmed enough. to alow full travel.
Also, the top of the fin my restrict the travel of the rudder this may need to be cut and relieved.
Included in the kit is a rudder horn But the cut out on the early models were not open enough and may actually hit the fin sides
if installed too far forward. I recommed that you just put a Hard point there in the balsa block of the rudder and install a rudder horn /thread rod style ,
fromMK, IM Japan or Central Hobby brand
For best results you want the rudder to travel almost to the elevator halves ,,if not, you may have trouble on stall turns in windy conditions.
Bryan
03-07-2010, 02:01 PM
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
correct me if i am wrong (bryan lol), but the gap there is to allow maximum deflection for the rudder. If the the gap were similar size as the elevator or ailerons, then you wouldnt be able to get the deflection needed for stall turns, as bryan just said above. So its for functionality purposes, not the "magic bullet" that allows for an optimal zero mix flying machine hahaha
Brandon Landry
hahaha Brandon Landry
03-08-2010, 12:21 AM
#163
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Hey Bryan
Could you post the Firewall, engine mount, and nose ring build pictures you talked about a couple of days ago. What is the latest on getting the build pictures and instructions from CARF. Where are they on the Strake?
I was planning on ueing the IM rudder horn rod but I am a little confused in what is actually in the rudder to mount this to. I was under the impression there was already hard wood or a balsa block already installed? Can you clarify as I was going to install a 3/8 hardwood dowel to therad the rod into? Do you have any pictures on whats actually inside the rudder?
I am going to use all brushless servos and am planning on powering the engine CDI with the receiver battery. I want to use a 2100 Mah Li-ion regulated to 6V at 7 amps. Is this enough battery? I have a 4300 Mah available but prefer not to use it due to weight considerations. What are you using for battery and regulator?
Thanks
Dick
Could you post the Firewall, engine mount, and nose ring build pictures you talked about a couple of days ago. What is the latest on getting the build pictures and instructions from CARF. Where are they on the Strake?
I was planning on ueing the IM rudder horn rod but I am a little confused in what is actually in the rudder to mount this to. I was under the impression there was already hard wood or a balsa block already installed? Can you clarify as I was going to install a 3/8 hardwood dowel to therad the rod into? Do you have any pictures on whats actually inside the rudder?
I am going to use all brushless servos and am planning on powering the engine CDI with the receiver battery. I want to use a 2100 Mah Li-ion regulated to 6V at 7 amps. Is this enough battery? I have a 4300 Mah available but prefer not to use it due to weight considerations. What are you using for battery and regulator?
Thanks
Dick
03-08-2010, 09:35 AM
#164
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
From what I remember when Bryan was assembling his first Valiant, there's a balsa block in the rudder that the control horn supplied with the kit would normally glue to. Bryan recommended in a previous post to install a hard point in this to mount a new horn to if you so choose. I don't think Bryan is currently running the CDI in his Valiant, and I'm not positive if he's running a Li-Po or Li-Ion battery. I know he's got a Duralight Smart Switch (sometimes called Digi-Switch, regulator and switch in one).
03-08-2010, 04:34 PM
#166
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Dick, post 133 shows fire wall install and I will post some pics of the nose ring tonight
on the rudder hard point I have a dowel installed in the balsa block, thats factory installed in the rudder and then tapped for a rod /clevis like IM or Central style rudder p/p system
As far as the CDI, you can run it straight to the receiver with a Lipoly or Li ion 2600 and the digi switch
I get up to 7 flights with this set up no problem. But I have used a 2100 pack and it works just fine for about 5 flights, I don`t use seperate batteries.
They have not given me any time esta on the Strake they are testing the best Materials now for the application.
The instruction Manual is being worked on But still not fully ready the Text and Pic`s in the Thread are from the Manual I set them.
Bryan
on the rudder hard point I have a dowel installed in the balsa block, thats factory installed in the rudder and then tapped for a rod /clevis like IM or Central style rudder p/p system
As far as the CDI, you can run it straight to the receiver with a Lipoly or Li ion 2600 and the digi switch
I get up to 7 flights with this set up no problem. But I have used a 2100 pack and it works just fine for about 5 flights, I don`t use seperate batteries.
They have not given me any time esta on the Strake they are testing the best Materials now for the application.
The instruction Manual is being worked on But still not fully ready the Text and Pic`s in the Thread are from the Manual I set them.
Bryan
03-08-2010, 08:25 PM
#167
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Bryan
Ok, I must have missed the fire wall deal.
I will carry an extra 2100 Li-ion and a battery change will take seconds the way I will set it up. I may not get 5 flights due to the CDI requirement but with rwo batteries available it will cover any days flying I would do.
The rudder explanation is as I originally thought but I got confused with yesterdays post.
CARF is pretty slow on getting their paper work out. They have a new Edge out that is lacking the same thing.
I may need to get a copy of your drawings or patterns from you on the Strake as I doubt I am going to be willing to wait as long as it will take for CARF to produce one.
Thanks again for the help. I know your busy.
Dick
Ok, I must have missed the fire wall deal.
I will carry an extra 2100 Li-ion and a battery change will take seconds the way I will set it up. I may not get 5 flights due to the CDI requirement but with rwo batteries available it will cover any days flying I would do.
The rudder explanation is as I originally thought but I got confused with yesterdays post.
CARF is pretty slow on getting their paper work out. They have a new Edge out that is lacking the same thing.
I may need to get a copy of your drawings or patterns from you on the Strake as I doubt I am going to be willing to wait as long as it will take for CARF to produce one.
Thanks again for the help. I know your busy.
Dick
03-09-2010, 10:29 AM
#168
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Dick I`ll just mail you a strake .
You can install it with the text I`ve included in this thread,
Send me your address ,but promiss me you will fly it first without it on,then after some time ,and you get the airplane like you like it only then install it and report back to the list what you found about the performance changes
Bryan
You can install it with the text I`ve included in this thread,
Send me your address ,but promiss me you will fly it first without it on,then after some time ,and you get the airplane like you like it only then install it and report back to the list what you found about the performance changes
Bryan
03-09-2010, 09:11 PM
#169
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Hi Bryan
That's a deal. I would not put the strake on initially even if left on my own. I need to establish a base line of comparison by flying and triming the aircraft. I suspect this will take a dozen or so flights to accomplish this. I will be more than happy to share the results of the initail flights and the Strake evaluation.
I will send you my address via PM.
Thanks
Dick
That's a deal. I would not put the strake on initially even if left on my own. I need to establish a base line of comparison by flying and triming the aircraft. I suspect this will take a dozen or so flights to accomplish this. I will be more than happy to share the results of the initail flights and the Strake evaluation.
I will send you my address via PM.
Thanks
Dick
03-14-2010, 04:01 AM
#170
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
My Valiant had its first flight this weekend in nearly zero wind condition. It is 4.680 gr with YS 1.70 DZ with 18.1 x 10 Wide APC prop.
YS 1.70 is too powerful for Valiant. I use a Turkish made fuel (Turkuaz %30 N) and the throttle is fully opened in linear 100 on radio, I reduced it (ATV) to 55.
I was wondering about the knife edge performance. On right side knife edge no elevator mix is needed. On left side very little down elevator is needed.
Also on vertical climbing and diving down elevator is needed. The CG is just on the centre of the tube. I think I have to get it a little bit back ( I would be glad if anyone had experiences about the
position of the CG and share it with me).
Model is more sensitive to aileron differential.
Snaps ? Unbelievable ! Is it so easy to exit from a snap ?
I want to thank to Bryan for such a good design.
Ahmet Eryildirim
YS 1.70 is too powerful for Valiant. I use a Turkish made fuel (Turkuaz %30 N) and the throttle is fully opened in linear 100 on radio, I reduced it (ATV) to 55.
I was wondering about the knife edge performance. On right side knife edge no elevator mix is needed. On left side very little down elevator is needed.
Also on vertical climbing and diving down elevator is needed. The CG is just on the centre of the tube. I think I have to get it a little bit back ( I would be glad if anyone had experiences about the
position of the CG and share it with me).
Model is more sensitive to aileron differential.
Snaps ? Unbelievable ! Is it so easy to exit from a snap ?
I want to thank to Bryan for such a good design.
Ahmet Eryildirim
03-14-2010, 01:54 PM
#171
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Great looking paint scheme there Ahmet!
1 question though if I may:
In the 4th picture, your wing looks like the top surface has anhedral and the bottom surface looks flat, is this how the picture is making it look or has something happend during the build? I ask because MANY years ago I installed a wing joiner blade the wrong way up on an Extra 300 wing I put together and I ended up with the same result, it flew great inverted but when the right way up...................what a handfull!
Regards,
Andy.
1 question though if I may:
In the 4th picture, your wing looks like the top surface has anhedral and the bottom surface looks flat, is this how the picture is making it look or has something happend during the build? I ask because MANY years ago I installed a wing joiner blade the wrong way up on an Extra 300 wing I put together and I ended up with the same result, it flew great inverted but when the right way up...................what a handfull!
Regards,
Andy.
03-14-2010, 10:42 PM
#173
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Hi Eryildirim
I`m glad your airplane flies well for you ,thank you.
on your set up,
You do not have enough prop on the 1.7using a 18.1-10 for that motor,use a APC 19-11
On your knife edge tuck with left rudder, Make sure your elevator Halves are perfectly aligned very important
then move your C/G forward till the tuck on left rudder goes away.
this will fix your up lines and help the downlines
DO Not use Differential on Ailerons make sure the throw is equal up and down ,minimum of 22 degrees for snaps ,
14 deg up elevator is all you need for all flying including snaps. 17 deg for down elevator
Use low rate rudder for snaps adjust the throw as needed for hitting the Exit consistently. over rotate, less rudder undder rotate ,,more rudder ECT.
BTW what kind of filter are you using..
Bryan
hebertcompetitiondesigns.com
I`m glad your airplane flies well for you ,thank you.
on your set up,
You do not have enough prop on the 1.7using a 18.1-10 for that motor,use a APC 19-11
On your knife edge tuck with left rudder, Make sure your elevator Halves are perfectly aligned very important
then move your C/G forward till the tuck on left rudder goes away.
this will fix your up lines and help the downlines
DO Not use Differential on Ailerons make sure the throw is equal up and down ,minimum of 22 degrees for snaps ,
14 deg up elevator is all you need for all flying including snaps. 17 deg for down elevator
Use low rate rudder for snaps adjust the throw as needed for hitting the Exit consistently. over rotate, less rudder undder rotate ,,more rudder ECT.
BTW what kind of filter are you using..
Bryan
hebertcompetitiondesigns.com
03-15-2010, 12:09 AM
#174
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Hey Bryan
Quick question. I installed the YS 170 DZ CDI in a well used Smaragd z that weighs right at 11 pounds to check out the engine, fuel system, battery-switch/reg- receiver that I am going to use on the Valiant. My question is approx. how many flights should I expect on a new Duralite 2150 MAH Lo-Ion battery that powers receiver and CDI system? It looks like I am only going to get 3 flights before I will need to swap out battery to a fresh one.
I ran several tanks thru the engine and then flew it. Even bloddy rich I flew the P11 never getting over 1/2 throttle. You weren't kidding when you said this thing was a brute! Your break-in procedure worked perfectly at 1 1/2 out on high speed needle and 1/2 turn in on pump. I have not changed from that yet but will after 8 t0 10 tanks.
Thanks again for the help.
Dick
Quick question. I installed the YS 170 DZ CDI in a well used Smaragd z that weighs right at 11 pounds to check out the engine, fuel system, battery-switch/reg- receiver that I am going to use on the Valiant. My question is approx. how many flights should I expect on a new Duralite 2150 MAH Lo-Ion battery that powers receiver and CDI system? It looks like I am only going to get 3 flights before I will need to swap out battery to a fresh one.
I ran several tanks thru the engine and then flew it. Even bloddy rich I flew the P11 never getting over 1/2 throttle. You weren't kidding when you said this thing was a brute! Your break-in procedure worked perfectly at 1 1/2 out on high speed needle and 1/2 turn in on pump. I have not changed from that yet but will after 8 t0 10 tanks.
Thanks again for the help.
Dick
03-15-2010, 01:39 AM
#175
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RE: Comp ARF Valiant
Thank you for your response and comments Bryan,
I think a could not explain exactly what I meant by saying "left side knife edge".
It is, on models left side by right rudder. Model needs down elevator correction. It comes to canopy.
So must CG be shifted to forward or backward ?
I understood that you are asking about the air filter on YS.
It is my design. If you are interested in, I can send detailed photos of it.
Ahmet
I think a could not explain exactly what I meant by saying "left side knife edge".
It is, on models left side by right rudder. Model needs down elevator correction. It comes to canopy.
So must CG be shifted to forward or backward ?
I understood that you are asking about the air filter on YS.
It is my design. If you are interested in, I can send detailed photos of it.
Ahmet