Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
06-19-2010, 10:22 AM
#26
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
From what I've learned the plane is designed for electric only. I too have been for fuel burning planes for over 40 years, but when you see just how efficient and smooth the electrics fly this plane and with so much less backup items that you need for fuel planes I just could not justify getting another fuel plane. I have a super running OS 45 AX that I want to put on a plane, but that just keeps me in the same situation as before.
06-19-2010, 10:56 AM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: MTK
Hey fellas,
I don't have much interest in electric. Are there any provisions for a small gas or glow engine? I have a YS63 that needs a plane...is that too small?
ORIGINAL: Ryan Smith
Different angle. V1 is on the left, V2 is on the right.
Different angle. V1 is on the left, V2 is on the right.
I don't have much interest in electric. Are there any provisions for a small gas or glow engine? I have a YS63 that needs a plane...is that too small?
I'm really not sure this is possible. I can say for sure a YS .63 is way too big for this airplane, however. I've got one in a Sig Rascal, and with a 13x4 prop it will accelerate vertically, and the Rascal is rougly twice as large and heavy. I remember seeing a guy that converted a 49" Quique Yak to glow with an OS .32. He said that the airplane did well, but that airframe is built heavier than this one is. I would probably be most worried about vibration.
You could use this airplane to give electric a shot. I know you say you have no interest in it, but I bet you would like it.
06-19-2010, 12:50 PM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
I wonder if the new Hyde mount that central is advertising would help with the vibrations? I personally think the YS 63 would be too big.
http://www.centralhobbies.com/Engine...s/hydmnts.html
http://www.centralhobbies.com/Engine...s/hydmnts.html
06-19-2010, 11:05 PM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Matt,
I don't think this airframe would last long with a glow engine in it. I'm thinking the first time you flip the prop or put a starter on the engine you'd be left holding a China-Kote bag of splintered sticks.
I would recommend getting the plane/motor/ESC combo, then four of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2650mah-4s1p-148-20c.html , and a good balancing charger that will charge them 2 at a time.
You will find that the Vanquish is a GREAT airplane for going out to your local park to get in a couple practice flights in when you don't have time to pack up all of your stuff and make a formal trip to the field. I often go to my local park with nothing more than my transmitter, Vanquish, and 2-3 charged Lipo's all in the back of my truck. Fly out the three Lipo's and head home. Total time, about 45 minutes driveway to driveway.
It's also a great plane to take to the field to fly between your 2M flights. I'll put 2 LiPo's on charge, then start flying my 2M plane. When the LiPo's are done I put one in the Vanquish and carry the other LiPo out to the flight line with me. Fly out one LiPo, taxi up to where I'm standing, quickly swap out the LiPo's and get another flight. Put both LiPo's back on the charger and go back to flying my 2M plane. I can easily get an extra 2-6 practice flights per day when I go out to the field.
I don't think this airframe would last long with a glow engine in it. I'm thinking the first time you flip the prop or put a starter on the engine you'd be left holding a China-Kote bag of splintered sticks.
I would recommend getting the plane/motor/ESC combo, then four of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2650mah-4s1p-148-20c.html , and a good balancing charger that will charge them 2 at a time.
You will find that the Vanquish is a GREAT airplane for going out to your local park to get in a couple practice flights in when you don't have time to pack up all of your stuff and make a formal trip to the field. I often go to my local park with nothing more than my transmitter, Vanquish, and 2-3 charged Lipo's all in the back of my truck. Fly out the three Lipo's and head home. Total time, about 45 minutes driveway to driveway.
It's also a great plane to take to the field to fly between your 2M flights. I'll put 2 LiPo's on charge, then start flying my 2M plane. When the LiPo's are done I put one in the Vanquish and carry the other LiPo out to the flight line with me. Fly out one LiPo, taxi up to where I'm standing, quickly swap out the LiPo's and get another flight. Put both LiPo's back on the charger and go back to flying my 2M plane. I can easily get an extra 2-6 practice flights per day when I go out to the field.
06-22-2010, 09:52 AM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
I agree with you on this on Keith! I've been holding out on getting into the electrics mostly because of ignorance. After reading and learning more about this facet of the hobby it finally made sense to me to do exactly what your doing. Practice is the main key to flying and competing well. The little planes may not do that well in higher winds but in a clam wind situation I would bet in the hands of a pro the Vanquish MkII would perform just as well as the 2 mm plane! The convenience along with cost has converted me, but I still have my bigger plane and love it, but this little guy has a lot to offer.
Terry
Terry
06-22-2010, 10:21 AM
#31
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: klhoard
Matt,
I don't think this airframe would last long with a glow engine in it. I'm thinking the first time you flip the prop or put a starter on the engine you'd be left holding a China-Kote bag of splintered sticks.
I would recommend getting the plane/motor/ESC combo, then four of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2650mah-4s1p-148-20c.html , and a good balancing charger that will charge them 2 at a time.
You will find that the Vanquish is a GREAT airplane for going out to your local park to get in a couple practice flights in when you don't have time to pack up all of your stuff and make a formal trip to the field. I often go to my local park with nothing more than my transmitter, Vanquish, and 2-3 charged Lipo's all in the back of my truck. Fly out the three Lipo's and head home. Total time, about 45 minutes driveway to driveway.
It's also a great plane to take to the field to fly between your 2M flights. I'll put 2 LiPo's on charge, then start flying my 2M plane. When the LiPo's are done I put one in the Vanquish and carry the other LiPo out to the flight line with me. Fly out one LiPo, taxi up to where I'm standing, quickly swap out the LiPo's and get another flight. Put both LiPo's back on the charger and go back to flying my 2M plane. I can easily get an extra 2-6 practice flights per day when I go out to the field.
Matt,
I don't think this airframe would last long with a glow engine in it. I'm thinking the first time you flip the prop or put a starter on the engine you'd be left holding a China-Kote bag of splintered sticks.
I would recommend getting the plane/motor/ESC combo, then four of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2650mah-4s1p-148-20c.html , and a good balancing charger that will charge them 2 at a time.
You will find that the Vanquish is a GREAT airplane for going out to your local park to get in a couple practice flights in when you don't have time to pack up all of your stuff and make a formal trip to the field. I often go to my local park with nothing more than my transmitter, Vanquish, and 2-3 charged Lipo's all in the back of my truck. Fly out the three Lipo's and head home. Total time, about 45 minutes driveway to driveway.
It's also a great plane to take to the field to fly between your 2M flights. I'll put 2 LiPo's on charge, then start flying my 2M plane. When the LiPo's are done I put one in the Vanquish and carry the other LiPo out to the flight line with me. Fly out one LiPo, taxi up to where I'm standing, quickly swap out the LiPo's and get another flight. Put both LiPo's back on the charger and go back to flying my 2M plane. I can easily get an extra 2-6 practice flights per day when I go out to the field.
What a good dual charger for such a set-up? What servos? I have small RXs for my JR12x suitable for this plane. You know what I want out of this type plane
thanks
06-22-2010, 02:57 PM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Matt,
Personally, I'm kinda partial to the FMA chargers and use the FMA 10S charger. It will charge up to (2) 5-cell packs simultaneously at 3C. I also like the programmability of their chargers and the ability to hook it up to a laptop to monitor the charging of a pack if you think one of the cells is suspect. I also have a few A123 cells and this charger will fire them right up at a 10 amp rate. If you get one of these, make sure your power supply has enough ass behind it 'cause it will happily draw up to 25 amps on your Radio Shack 8 amp power supply. . . oops.
However, there are many other chargers out there on the market, even sold by the HobbyPartz web site that I'm sure would work just as well. It depends on whether you are a "buy cheap, buy twice" kinda guy and just want to dip your toe into electrics. I would recommend asking the 2M electric guys what charger they are using, then you can sell it later if you decide electrics aren't for you.
You will soon find out that all of the individual LiPo cells are identical - charging-wise, so the way the manufacturers "differentiate" their product is by using as different shaped balancing plugs as they can get away with. Kinda like giving you a Kroger card, this is to create a small level of pain for you to buy "their" brand of LiPo's in the future. Do like I do, just sigh and buy all of the different popular brand balancing adapters they offer when you get your charger. That way you aren't locked into one brand of LiPo in the future. (Your buddies at the field with different brand batts will thank you also).
As far as servos, I would recommend getting mini-digitals. I'm not familiar with JR's, but they will need to be the size of a Hitec HS-65 or you have some surgery to do. I started with Hitec's, but bought three Futaba digitals for the ailerons and elevator. I'm going to leave the metal gear Hitec on the rudder. In the manual, they recommend IN ALL CAPS that you get metal gear servos for the elevator and rudder. I can understand why on the rudder since it is an itty bitty servo getting beat up on the ground by the tail wheel forces. I'm going to try to get away with a non-metal digital on the elevator, report back at 11pm . . .
You may also want to replace the pushrods that are supplied with the Vanquish. They give you the small silver wire Z-bend dealio's that have alot of slop because they don't fit tightly into the control horn hole. No use spending for digitals and then having a pushrod that doesn't fit. I had several of the all-nylon clevises for old 1/2A stuff that work great. The clevis fits snugly in the supplied control horn hole and the other one in a 1/16" hole in the servo horn. A small 2-56 threaded rod connects them.
Personally, I'm kinda partial to the FMA chargers and use the FMA 10S charger. It will charge up to (2) 5-cell packs simultaneously at 3C. I also like the programmability of their chargers and the ability to hook it up to a laptop to monitor the charging of a pack if you think one of the cells is suspect. I also have a few A123 cells and this charger will fire them right up at a 10 amp rate. If you get one of these, make sure your power supply has enough ass behind it 'cause it will happily draw up to 25 amps on your Radio Shack 8 amp power supply. . . oops.
However, there are many other chargers out there on the market, even sold by the HobbyPartz web site that I'm sure would work just as well. It depends on whether you are a "buy cheap, buy twice" kinda guy and just want to dip your toe into electrics. I would recommend asking the 2M electric guys what charger they are using, then you can sell it later if you decide electrics aren't for you.
You will soon find out that all of the individual LiPo cells are identical - charging-wise, so the way the manufacturers "differentiate" their product is by using as different shaped balancing plugs as they can get away with. Kinda like giving you a Kroger card, this is to create a small level of pain for you to buy "their" brand of LiPo's in the future. Do like I do, just sigh and buy all of the different popular brand balancing adapters they offer when you get your charger. That way you aren't locked into one brand of LiPo in the future. (Your buddies at the field with different brand batts will thank you also).
As far as servos, I would recommend getting mini-digitals. I'm not familiar with JR's, but they will need to be the size of a Hitec HS-65 or you have some surgery to do. I started with Hitec's, but bought three Futaba digitals for the ailerons and elevator. I'm going to leave the metal gear Hitec on the rudder. In the manual, they recommend IN ALL CAPS that you get metal gear servos for the elevator and rudder. I can understand why on the rudder since it is an itty bitty servo getting beat up on the ground by the tail wheel forces. I'm going to try to get away with a non-metal digital on the elevator, report back at 11pm . . .
You may also want to replace the pushrods that are supplied with the Vanquish. They give you the small silver wire Z-bend dealio's that have alot of slop because they don't fit tightly into the control horn hole. No use spending for digitals and then having a pushrod that doesn't fit. I had several of the all-nylon clevises for old 1/2A stuff that work great. The clevis fits snugly in the supplied control horn hole and the other one in a 1/16" hole in the servo horn. A small 2-56 threaded rod connects them.
06-23-2010, 10:03 PM
#33
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: Ryan Smith
Matt,
I'm really not sure this is possible. I can say for sure a YS .63 is way too big for this airplane, however. I've got one in a Sig Rascal, and with a 13x4 prop it will accelerate vertically, and the Rascal is rougly twice as large and heavy. I remember seeing a guy that converted a 49'' Quique Yak to glow with an OS .32. He said that the airplane did well, but that airframe is built heavier than this one is. I would probably be most worried about vibration.
You could use this airplane to give electric a shot. I know you say you have no interest in it, but I bet you would like it.
Matt,
I'm really not sure this is possible. I can say for sure a YS .63 is way too big for this airplane, however. I've got one in a Sig Rascal, and with a 13x4 prop it will accelerate vertically, and the Rascal is rougly twice as large and heavy. I remember seeing a guy that converted a 49'' Quique Yak to glow with an OS .32. He said that the airplane did well, but that airframe is built heavier than this one is. I would probably be most worried about vibration.
You could use this airplane to give electric a shot. I know you say you have no interest in it, but I bet you would like it.
Last one I had that was about this size was the mini Brio and that one flew really dawggy, so hopefully this one will fly decently. The miniBrio took 3S lipos which cost a bunch 4 years ago. It's great to see the cost of 4s down this far.
Lochowski and Lockhart fly electric....I'll take Keith's recommendation and see what chargers they use
06-23-2010, 11:41 PM
#34
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Matt,
You'll love it. I like my MkI so much I've ordered a MkII, hopefully mine will get here this week too.
.
.
One more point, Matt. Before you run it up to full power for the first time, get someone to hook up a Watt Meter of some sort so you can measure the amperage you're drawing from the battery. You can easily be drawing too much amperage with the wrong prop and the whole system will just keep working happily. . . until it doesn't anymore and all the magic smoke escapes. I have tried different props on mine and settled early on the APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I also took some light balsa and made baffles inside the cowl to direct air onto the back of the motor and over the heat sink of the ESC, the airflow didn't seem too efficient before.
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.
My MkI is still in great shape if anyone is interested . . I'll make a GREATdeal and offer an NSRCA discount!!
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.
You'll love it. I like my MkI so much I've ordered a MkII, hopefully mine will get here this week too.
.
.
One more point, Matt. Before you run it up to full power for the first time, get someone to hook up a Watt Meter of some sort so you can measure the amperage you're drawing from the battery. You can easily be drawing too much amperage with the wrong prop and the whole system will just keep working happily. . . until it doesn't anymore and all the magic smoke escapes. I have tried different props on mine and settled early on the APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I also took some light balsa and made baffles inside the cowl to direct air onto the back of the motor and over the heat sink of the ESC, the airflow didn't seem too efficient before.
.
.
My MkI is still in great shape if anyone is interested . . I'll make a GREATdeal and offer an NSRCA discount!!
.
.
ORIGINAL: MTK
Well, ordered one to see what the hubbub's about. Came today. Cute little sucker. Got the motor-esc combo too.
Last one I had that was about this size was the mini Brio and that one flew really dawggy, so hopefully this one will fly decently. The miniBrio took 3S lipos which cost a bunch 4 years ago. It's great to see the cost of 4s down this far.
Lochowski and Lockhart fly electric....I'll take Keith's recommendation and see what chargers they use
Well, ordered one to see what the hubbub's about. Came today. Cute little sucker. Got the motor-esc combo too.
Last one I had that was about this size was the mini Brio and that one flew really dawggy, so hopefully this one will fly decently. The miniBrio took 3S lipos which cost a bunch 4 years ago. It's great to see the cost of 4s down this far.
Lochowski and Lockhart fly electric....I'll take Keith's recommendation and see what chargers they use
06-25-2010, 07:54 AM
#35
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
No Z-bend hardware on the Mk II, it's all solid and slop-free. Also it includes a laser-cut cooling baffles for each side of the motor box to deflect the air coming in from the inlets of the cowl onto the motor. The motor runs cold with this setup. The baffles do require quite a bit of fitting to get them to fit the cowl, they must be shaped for a different EF airplane.
The APC 11X8 prop works great for me with the stock power system. I'm using 4S 3000 batteries, about 6.5 - 7 minutes depending on throttle usage will get you to 80%.
The APC 11X8 prop works great for me with the stock power system. I'm using 4S 3000 batteries, about 6.5 - 7 minutes depending on throttle usage will get you to 80%.
06-28-2010, 10:22 AM
#38
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Still working on my MkII. . . .
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Normally, my first action with an ARF is to take the bag of control hardware and back up as far as I can across my garage and try to make a three point shot into the garbage bag. However. . .
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I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the control hardware supplied with this plane. Ball links, no slop setup. . . The EZ connectors may need a drop of solder since I can't get a lock nut on them, but so far I'm actually impressed!! Good job Extreme Flight!!
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Does anyone know why they are so insistent on using a metal gear servo for the elevator? I could understand on the rudder since it has to handle the tail wheel loads, but I don't understand why the need on the elevator. . .
.
.
Normally, my first action with an ARF is to take the bag of control hardware and back up as far as I can across my garage and try to make a three point shot into the garbage bag. However. . .
.
.
I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the control hardware supplied with this plane. Ball links, no slop setup. . . The EZ connectors may need a drop of solder since I can't get a lock nut on them, but so far I'm actually impressed!! Good job Extreme Flight!!
.
.
Does anyone know why they are so insistent on using a metal gear servo for the elevator? I could understand on the rudder since it has to handle the tail wheel loads, but I don't understand why the need on the elevator. . .
06-28-2010, 11:09 AM
#39
Senior Member
RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: klhoard
Still working on my MkII. . . .
.
.
Normally, my first action with an ARF is to take the bag of control hardware and back up as far as I can across my garage and try to make a three point shot into the garbage bag. However. . .
.
.
I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the control hardware supplied with this plane. Ball links, no slop setup. . . The EZ connectors may need a drop of solder since I can't get a lock nut on them, but so far I'm actually impressed!! Good job Extreme Flight!!
.
.
Does anyone know why they are so insistent on using a metal gear servo for the elevator? I could understand on the rudder since it has to handle the tail wheel loads, but I don't understand why the need on the elevator. . .
Still working on my MkII. . . .
.
.
Normally, my first action with an ARF is to take the bag of control hardware and back up as far as I can across my garage and try to make a three point shot into the garbage bag. However. . .
.
.
I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the control hardware supplied with this plane. Ball links, no slop setup. . . The EZ connectors may need a drop of solder since I can't get a lock nut on them, but so far I'm actually impressed!! Good job Extreme Flight!!
.
.
Does anyone know why they are so insistent on using a metal gear servo for the elevator? I could understand on the rudder since it has to handle the tail wheel loads, but I don't understand why the need on the elevator. . .
I believe it's the 3D capability. However this small a plane doesn't really need that. The 78"Extra does
On mine, I only opened the box and took the packing off the stuff. Seems reasonably light work but haven't weighed anything. Just as they did on the 78" Extra, they used carbon tubes on the fuse bottom as longeron stock. This wins points with me.
Won't get it built until the current pattern project on the board is completed sometime in July.
06-28-2010, 12:51 PM
#40
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
The only problem I ran into on mine was one of the ailerons the leading edge was not straight and left a little gap between it and the wing trailing edge but I will seal it and all should be fine. I'm with matt I think the metal gear servo is for 3d I put hs65hb's in mine that have the karbonite gears.
Tim
Tim
06-28-2010, 03:00 PM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
We would not recommend the HB servos.....
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
06-28-2010, 04:14 PM
#42
Senior Member
RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: exeter_acres
We would not recommend the HB servos.....
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
We would not recommend the HB servos.....
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
06-28-2010, 06:45 PM
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Just finished, empty weight 2lb. 10oz. Should make weight for the Nats. . .
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BTW - does anyone know what these parts are for? Couldn't find their purpose in the instruction manual, but then again I didn't look that hard. . .
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BTW - does anyone know what these parts are for? Couldn't find their purpose in the instruction manual, but then again I didn't look that hard. . .
06-28-2010, 07:02 PM
#45
Senior Member
RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: klhoard
Just finished, empty weight 2lb. 10oz. Should make weight for the Nats. . .
.
.
BTW - does anyone know what these parts are for? Couldn't find their purpose in the instruction manual, but then again I didn't look that hard. . .
Just finished, empty weight 2lb. 10oz. Should make weight for the Nats. . .
.
.
BTW - does anyone know what these parts are for? Couldn't find their purpose in the instruction manual, but then again I didn't look that hard. . .
Isn't that heavy? I thought this thing was supposed to be around 46-48 ozs with battery, RTF.
At 42 ozs with no gear, it seems very heavy
06-28-2010, 07:32 PM
#46
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Just looked at their website. . . advertised weight 44-48 oz. with battery.
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Mine came out at exactly 42 oz. Add a 4S-2100 LiPo at 7 oz. and you're at 49 ounces, one ounce over their max.
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I'm not sure how I could have built it any lighter. I did give it a liberal coat of thin CA over every joint I could get to. . not sure how much weight that would add. Only other additions I made were a few of the little Zip-ties and some velcro to hold the battery. Everything else is stock / recommended.
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Anyway, I have many, many flights on my MkI at this weight and heavier. I use both a 4S-3300 pack at 14 ounces, and also both 4S-2100 packs in parallel to get extra flight time and it flew great. Hopefully other people can chime in on what weight their MkII and MkI's are coming out at for comparison. I could have messed something up. . .
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Mine came out at exactly 42 oz. Add a 4S-2100 LiPo at 7 oz. and you're at 49 ounces, one ounce over their max.
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I'm not sure how I could have built it any lighter. I did give it a liberal coat of thin CA over every joint I could get to. . not sure how much weight that would add. Only other additions I made were a few of the little Zip-ties and some velcro to hold the battery. Everything else is stock / recommended.
.
.
Anyway, I have many, many flights on my MkI at this weight and heavier. I use both a 4S-3300 pack at 14 ounces, and also both 4S-2100 packs in parallel to get extra flight time and it flew great. Hopefully other people can chime in on what weight their MkII and MkI's are coming out at for comparison. I could have messed something up. . .
06-28-2010, 07:34 PM
#47
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
Matt,
When you wrote "no gear", did you mean servos, receiver, motor, ect.? Everything is installed and ready to fly. . .
When you wrote "no gear", did you mean servos, receiver, motor, ect.? Everything is installed and ready to fly. . .
ORIGINAL: MTK
Keith,
Isn't that heavy? I thought this thing was supposed to be around 46-48 ozs with battery, RTF.
At 42 ozs with no gear, it seems very heavy
Keith,
Isn't that heavy? I thought this thing was supposed to be around 46-48 ozs with battery, RTF.
At 42 ozs with no gear, it seems very heavy
06-28-2010, 08:47 PM
#48
RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
ORIGINAL: MTK
Intend to use JR DS281s and 285s in mine. I believe those have plastic gears. Do you think they will be problematic? I have zero interest in 3D; set-up for pattern only
ORIGINAL: exeter_acres
We would not recommend the HB servos.....
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
We would not recommend the HB servos.....
The ELE is quite large for an airframe this size.
We have seen the HB fail in flight multiple times. It is a fine servo, but this just is not the best application for them.
Regards,
06-28-2010, 09:46 PM
#49
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RE: Vanquish I vs. Vanquish II
I've got JR DS388's for the elevator (I think) and ailerons, and a Spektrum H3000 for the rudder. The H3000 looks to be Horizon's answer to the HS 65s.