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Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

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Old 08-11-2003, 02:17 PM
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john316
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

I have heard reports on this forum about servo arm retaining screws vibrating loose on metal gear servos with the subsequent loss of the aircraft. This was forcefully driven home last weekend when a local club menber lost a 30% Cap 232 when an elevator servo screw backed out. Anyway, I have loctited all my servo arm screws and my problem is I need to change an arm out and the @%*!^# screws will not come out........they are stuck good. Anybody have any suggestions on getting them out without resorting to drilling out the screws and replacing the output gear.

JMW
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Old 08-11-2003, 03:22 PM
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T_Hill
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

Take a dremel with a thin cutting disk and make a deeper slot. You will probably need the thin fragile type, not the tuffgrind disk. Then go a specialty fastener shop and get socket head screws. At least that's how I solved the same problem.

Tracy Hill
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Old 08-11-2003, 04:13 PM
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FLYBOY
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

What color loctite did you use, not red I hope.
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Old 08-11-2003, 04:15 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

Hi,

Take a soldering iron and CAREFULLY heat the screw, this will soften the loctite and they should come right out.

HTH

Jerry
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Old 08-11-2003, 06:41 PM
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Default Try This

Check out Blaine Austin's site here --> airplaneblaine
Go to the tips section and then radios. Ever since I read this tip, I've used RC56 without a hitch. Holds when it's supposed to, and let's go when you need it. Works for me_bob
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Old 08-12-2003, 08:38 AM
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Default Retainer Screws

I use all metal gears on my planes. Hitec 645's in fact; use Dubro's metric 2.5mm x 8 (#2117) hex head screws and blue Loctite with great results. I think each mfg'r has different thread sizes so you'll have to experiment a little...........
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Old 08-12-2003, 09:31 PM
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Default Metal Geared Servo Screw Solution

Hi,
I gave up on loctite...I just didn't like the fact that it was either not strong enough or too strong, and also didn't like the fact that once you broke the bond, you had to redo it and let dry...sometimes at the field, i don't want to wait to let it dry and it's really not fully cured then anyway. I use 'goop' (zap-a-dap-a-goo, shoe goo, pfm, etc...) It has a flexible bond that holds the screws in, yet won't them spin out. I also use 3x6m hex cap screws in all my metal geared JR servos. It's easier to get them tight and it just makes it look neater to me. That goop works great on other bolts like landing gear bolts and other bolts you don't want vibrating loose. it really works great! Give it a try.
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Old 08-13-2003, 12:20 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

OK, I'l give that a try next time, but I still have to get these screws out. If I remember correctly, I went with the red loctite and that stuff is pretty strong. I like the heat idea and grinding a bigger slot in the screw head to get some bite with a screwdriver.

JMW
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Old 08-13-2003, 03:35 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

I don't think you will be getting that screw out any time soon. The red loctite is the permanent strength.
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Old 08-13-2003, 06:22 PM
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Default A fix

Hi John,
You need to remove the main gear from the servo, and heat with a soldering iron. It should break free. If not a gearset will cure the problem though that's probably not what you wanted to hear. I hope you get it out, but make sure the gear hasn't warped any from the heat or damage to the rest of the geartrain could result. It could also cause a lockup of the geartrain. Red loctitite is considered permenent for our uses. Like I said above, I no longer use loctite on any of my planes. The blue will break loose, and the red is too permenent. The goop stuff holds great even when wet still which makes it better if things need to be removed at the field. I use this on 8411's that are on a 35% RadioCraft Extra and it has worked without a single bolt coming loose for a year and a half on this plane. It has also worked well on other planes I have or have had in the past.
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Old 08-13-2003, 07:27 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

That's what I was afraid of, I am going to have to drill the screw out more than likely to get the arm off, then change the output gear, what a pain in the .......... or I could ship the whole servo back to Hitec and let them play with it.

JMW
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Old 08-13-2003, 08:09 PM
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Default Oh No!

I just re-read your post and it said screws (plural) not screw. Did you use red on all the screws in all of the servos? Before doing anything price the parts...it may be cheaper to replace the top cases. You *could* cut the top case free which would let you get the gear off, but I'm not absolutely postive you can get the bolt out of the gear and then the gearset would have to be replaced anyway. I know that sounds pretty extreme but if it was done carefully you would really do no damage other than to the top case obviously, and could save some on the gearsets. You would have to be very careful not to cut into the gears...a hand saw (X-Acto, Zona) would probably be the best way to do this. This is about the only other way I know to fix it without having to replace the gears.
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Old 08-14-2003, 08:14 AM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

jbflier --> Note that the DuBro is 2.5mm, and the stock HiTech screw is 2.6mm. I know they work, but just so you and others know_bob
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Old 08-14-2003, 08:38 AM
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Default Thanks bob_nj

Thanks Bob.....I started using the hex head 2.5mm screws a couple of years ago when racing r/c cars. I quess that silly mm doesn't hurt any......at least I haven't had any problems with my 1/4 scale + gassers..........
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Old 08-14-2003, 04:27 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

They are all loctited but I only need to get the one on the rudder off, the stock nylon arm on the rudder servo is flexing since I changed over to ball joint type clevises. I may just forget it and leave this servo arm on here. I originally planed to change over to an aluminum arm or a composite heavy duty one to stop the flexing. It's not alot of flex and it's only in the rudder servo si it's probably not a big deal.

JMW
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Old 09-01-2003, 03:32 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

it takes 900 degrees to melt red loctite good luck and stay with blue it works great and will let go when needed
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:09 PM
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Default Metal Gear Servos & Loctite

Locktite sucks sometimes lol... it ruined my prop nut when i put 1 drop of BLUE locktite on it, my motor on my pbf TT 42GP has rattled loose 50 times and with the locktite it for the most part stays put but the muffler aint coming off even with a blow torch lol...

Ill have to try the glue methods Steven
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