ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

decent switches can be had at digikey for less than a dollar and the really good ones can cost 2-3 dollars....only problem is you have to solder them up into a harness by yourself, something it seems most aren't willing to do.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

What I get from all the responses is that the standard 3-wire switch included in complete radio systems for decades, are prone to failure and not to be trusted.

In order to be more self assured, a stout industrial quality switch should be substituted and wired into place using the Rx plug.

The last option is to not use a switch at all, and plug in the Rx battery when ready to go fly.

Thanks everyone, for your thoughts and comments.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Wow! It's Zagnut! Haven't seen you in a while brother Is you kid old enough to shave yet?

ZAGNUT

My Feedback: (1)

no shaving yet...we have to get past the 1st grade fart jokes first

and he's got two sisters to beat on now[>:]

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Those jokes make that age the best part of parenthood.

I see you have been a little busy with other nocturnal activities keeping you away from RCU[8D]

mattokeol

Switches have always been a problem in RC.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I have used these for several years without a failure

http://www.qualityrcproducts.com/products_switches.html

AA5BY

Yep... switches have always been a source of failures and concern and hence why redundancy is the choice for most giant aircraft.

One scheme used many years ago was phono jacks and plugs wired so that inserting the plug disconnected the battery.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

FWIW, I would not trust a Phone jack for this application. They have a small contact area and are not meant for high current applications.

pilotpete2

I have used the 1/8" phone jacks as an on/off switch only once. It was on an .049 powered hand launch sailplane. The big red tag hanging from the phone jack hopefully would keep you from launching without powering up the radio. That was in another Galaxy and long, long ago I hate to tell you how many guys in our club tossed their .049 powered sailplane, only to realize "I ain't got it"
Pete

Mikecam

Electro Dynamics switch, the original all others have been copied from.

http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/usw/index.shtml

See what the difference is. http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/usw/compare.shtml

Four Stroker

Some people are suckers to marketing.

pilotpete2

Exactly what I'm using these days
I only wish they had an LED indicator built right into the switch plate to indicate when power is on.
FWIW, I did have a solder joint failure in one of MPI's similar switches some years ago, almost lost my 4 Star 60, luckily it was intermittent and I was able to land safely.
Pete

Four Stroker

A good switch should have:

1) knife action
2) redundancy - at least 2PDT
3) soldering by orphans that are not on meth

Often overlooked are the crimps on the connectors.

I have not found the aftermarket stuff to be any better than JR or Futaba.

flyallday

Don't see it mentioned here but the Powersafe RX's have a fail - on switch.

Harry

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

For $300 bucks it better do something!!

pilotpete2

Sure, with the Powersafe receivers you add the extra complexity of the solid state switching in the receiver, and while more uncommon, a switch harness can possibly short closed. For my money, I'll take two switches, such as the ones from Electro Dynamics in parallel, to a solid state logic switch in the receiver, or one of the popular add-on's that are available (I don't like the parasitic battery drain bit). The failure rate of one of the simple switches such as the ED ones is very low, put two in parallel and the odds of loosing power gets really low. I like simple[8D]
Pete

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

I have used the JR gold switches for the better part of 20 years exclusively without incident on lots of planes from .60 to 1.80 size, fast charging, and high power servos. The extra six or seven dollars is worth it and I always replace a switch after a bad crash. If someday I ever switched radio brands, I would stick with this switch no matter what.

flyallday

I payed $230 from my LHS for the AR12120 and just got another for FREE with a DX18QQ - oh wait - guess that wasn't free after all

Harry

BTW, have not heard of one failing closed..

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I agree, When I get a new Futaba product their poor quality switch gets thrown in the trash and replaced with a good JR heavy duty switch.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

DX18QQ

Harry you kill me!

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

As a side note, I always mount switches inside the model as to prevent dirt, dust, exhaust residue and moisture from entering the mechanism and fowling the contacts. Personally, I would not turn a plane on and off by plugging in a external lead as in the picture of the quickie plane seen earlier in this thread because of how easy the contacts could become dirty and cause a poor connection. I now always use a pushrod with the pull on/push off convention to activate the switch. Using the same method in every model prevents accidents and confusion. In the few planes that I have had with a switch mounted in the fuse side, I always make sure the switch is mounted so that moving it towards the tail, not the nose, turns the plane on, thus preventing accidental switching off in flight due to the "bug strike theroy" Lastly, anytime a switch is involved in a crash and I suspect that the leads or connectors have been put in any type of strain, I throw away the switch and replace it. I don't make it my job to evaluate wires, connectors, or solder joints that have been subject to a hard hit or shock. I am not a expert in this and i don't take chances. Taking care of your equipment is the biggest part of reliability.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

A push-pull rod is how I normally operate my Rx switch also, which is mounted inside the fuselage. And I routinely install toggle switches for on-board glow. I suppose I could do the same for the Rx switch.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

I have used JR and MPI Switch Harnesses with the molded in charge Jack that has a door on it. I have never had one fail, they can be used to Bind a Spektrum Rx, and the door keeps the dirt out of the charge jack.

4*60

My Feedback: (41)

Guys...go to rctimer.  Look at the switches with charge jack and led.  They work.  Look at the price.