Multiplex Profi 4000 Question
09-15-2003, 11:51 AM
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Stuck on Universal Throttle setting
Under Menu 1 Controls I have a front and rear idle trim? Between that and servo travel curve I can't seem to get a normal throttle with trim. Where am I stuck.
09-15-2003, 12:12 PM
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RE: Stuck on Universal Throttle setting
Throttle idle trim should be rear, between +20% and +30%.
throttle control travel should show an arrow the same way as the stick, so down towards you at -100% when stick at idle and up away from you at +100% when stick at full power. If the arrows are reversed it is because you have reversed the throttle control instead of the throttle servo and that will mess up the idle trim.
Always set direction and travel value in the servo menu, not in controls, unless you are setting flight modes.
Harry
throttle control travel should show an arrow the same way as the stick, so down towards you at -100% when stick at idle and up away from you at +100% when stick at full power. If the arrows are reversed it is because you have reversed the throttle control instead of the throttle servo and that will mess up the idle trim.
Always set direction and travel value in the servo menu, not in controls, unless you are setting flight modes.
Harry
09-15-2003, 12:13 PM
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RE: Multiplex Profi 4000 Question
OK got it. had it f'd up but fixed and don't know how. Trim wasn't working nor travel but arrows were correct. I always seem to get there but don't know how.
09-16-2003, 05:42 AM
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Is there something better than dual rates and sticks?
Is there a better way to setup for 3D without using a switch for dual rates? I am using expo already but just seem to fumble even for my timer switch.
Also anyone know where to get the gimble sticks for the Profi 4000.
Also anyone know where to get the gimble sticks for the Profi 4000.
09-16-2003, 09:59 AM
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RE: Is there something better than dual rates and sticks?
You have a choice of using flight modes or rates, and a choice of using physical or software switches to move between rates/modes.
I use 3 modes, typically normal, 3D and spin modes. And I use a variety of switches – some slider, some push button and some software. What I don’t use is the Mpx toggle switches.
The advantage to using a rate is that it is very quick and easy to set, taking only a second or two compared to a couple of minutes to create modes and set them up. The disadvantage is that you only have one rate and one expo, though you can actually create triple, quadruple, quintuple rates etc by using multiple control inputs. With one rate you are either on 3D or normal, and can’t go extra low rate for slow rolls, rolling circles etc. You can actually prog a 3 pos switch to do triple rates but it will involve multiple control inputs and getting the 2 pos interpretation of a 3 pos switch correct so you might as well go to using modes. The advantage to modes is that each mode has its own rate and own expo but can all be set on the same switches for consistency, and offsets can be programmed into trims.
With modes, all you get to set are the parameters within menu 1 controls. But it is in here that you alter the travel value, so your 3D mode would have 100% each way and normal mode would have perhaps 35% each way, though I find I use non-symmetrical values for aileron to keep the roll rate the same each way. Each mode has its own rate switch. Each mode has its own expo, I tend to set them to permanently on with extreme values like minus 80% to minus 90% in 3D and small values in normal, they can be off in spin mode as it not required.
To control the modes I tend to use a slider switch or push button for 3D, and the rudder via software switching for spin mode. On the side of the case I installed a slider and a push button. On my Synergy 3D with massive expo and no fixed spoileron I use the slider switch to control 3D/normal mode. The 3D mode also has a rudder trim value as I find it needs a constant amount of rudder in the harrier. The Synergy is flyable in 3D mode at normal speed and has no fixed spoiler so there is no immediate rush to get out of 3D mode if a low altitude manoeuvre goes wrong. With my Beat-On I use a lot of fixed spoiler in harrier mode and may need out of that mode in an instant so I use a push button operated by my forefinger knuckle – the slightest drop in pressure on the button and the mode goes back to normal to fly out of trouble. Spin mode is done by the position of the rudder control so for spins, flicks, avalanches etc it pops in and out of the mode as it needs to without me having to do anything. It is also set so that the aileron travel is just right for knife edge spins. However it can be swine to have massive elevator travel if I am doing knife edge work so I tend to have a disabling switch.
Modes are a bit restricted since all they work on is the menu 1 controls so you add other things like mixers to the same switch that you use for the mode and then you can do anything.
H
I use 3 modes, typically normal, 3D and spin modes. And I use a variety of switches – some slider, some push button and some software. What I don’t use is the Mpx toggle switches.
The advantage to using a rate is that it is very quick and easy to set, taking only a second or two compared to a couple of minutes to create modes and set them up. The disadvantage is that you only have one rate and one expo, though you can actually create triple, quadruple, quintuple rates etc by using multiple control inputs. With one rate you are either on 3D or normal, and can’t go extra low rate for slow rolls, rolling circles etc. You can actually prog a 3 pos switch to do triple rates but it will involve multiple control inputs and getting the 2 pos interpretation of a 3 pos switch correct so you might as well go to using modes. The advantage to modes is that each mode has its own rate and own expo but can all be set on the same switches for consistency, and offsets can be programmed into trims.
With modes, all you get to set are the parameters within menu 1 controls. But it is in here that you alter the travel value, so your 3D mode would have 100% each way and normal mode would have perhaps 35% each way, though I find I use non-symmetrical values for aileron to keep the roll rate the same each way. Each mode has its own rate switch. Each mode has its own expo, I tend to set them to permanently on with extreme values like minus 80% to minus 90% in 3D and small values in normal, they can be off in spin mode as it not required.
To control the modes I tend to use a slider switch or push button for 3D, and the rudder via software switching for spin mode. On the side of the case I installed a slider and a push button. On my Synergy 3D with massive expo and no fixed spoileron I use the slider switch to control 3D/normal mode. The 3D mode also has a rudder trim value as I find it needs a constant amount of rudder in the harrier. The Synergy is flyable in 3D mode at normal speed and has no fixed spoiler so there is no immediate rush to get out of 3D mode if a low altitude manoeuvre goes wrong. With my Beat-On I use a lot of fixed spoiler in harrier mode and may need out of that mode in an instant so I use a push button operated by my forefinger knuckle – the slightest drop in pressure on the button and the mode goes back to normal to fly out of trouble. Spin mode is done by the position of the rudder control so for spins, flicks, avalanches etc it pops in and out of the mode as it needs to without me having to do anything. It is also set so that the aileron travel is just right for knife edge spins. However it can be swine to have massive elevator travel if I am doing knife edge work so I tend to have a disabling switch.
Modes are a bit restricted since all they work on is the menu 1 controls so you add other things like mixers to the same switch that you use for the mode and then you can do anything.
H
09-16-2003, 10:48 AM
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RE: Multiplex Profi 4000 Question
Heh, I knew you'd have a detailed answer. I will take my Tx with me on vacation next week. Isn't there someone who makes software servo simulator? What kind of push button(s) are you using?
Thx Again
Thx Again
09-16-2003, 05:47 PM
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RE: Multiplex Profi 4000 Question
There is a servo simulator in the 4000 in the form of a bar graph. Mike Shellim has a PC servo sim software but has not released it for sale/download yet, it shows graphics of servos with arms instead of bar graph. The push button is a small push-to-make with a red top. I use one for the flight timer with the momentary switch (latching emulation) assigned, and one on the side of the case as a fast release flight mode button.
Harry
Harry
10-07-2003, 03:35 PM
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Man it sure makes sense when I read it
But when I am moving through the menus I get lost.
How would I set up the sw rudder sensitivity based on stick position. Would this be SW1? I couldn't seem to figure it out last night.
How would I set up the sw rudder sensitivity based on stick position. Would this be SW1? I couldn't seem to figure it out last night.
10-07-2003, 05:34 PM
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RE: Man it sure makes sense when I read it
The thing we want to achieve is
IF rudder is full left OR full right THEN change the switch
This involves sensing the position of the rudder stick and then applying that position to a logical OR operation to alter the switch. We need two control switches, one to detect left and one to detect right stick. Then we pass the results of those two switches through a Logical switch and if either of the two control switches goes ON the Logical switch will toggle its output state. For example we will use a stick movement of 90% either way to trigger the switches, and I assume your rudder is stick A.
Menu 2, switches, control switch 1, from control A, 1-point, max+90%
Control switch 2, from control A, 1-point, max -90%
Those 2 control switches sense if the rudder stick is at or beyond 90% either way.
Then menu 2, switches, Logical sw:Log1
Input 1, OR, C1-A(arrow) C1-A means control switch 1 set from the A stick, which is what we set up in the control switches. If you see C1-A(arrow)* switch off the asterisk with the R button. Now if you move the rudder stick beyond 90% one way the * will appear next to C1-A, but not at any other point of the stick movement. Move up to input 2, it will still say OR and set the input to C2-A(arrow), R out the * if it is there. Now move the rudder stick the other way and C2 will suddenly * at one end, the opposite way to C1, but at no other point.
So what happens now is the output of Log 1 is OFF. But when C1 or C2 go * beyond 90% stick, Log 1 also goes ON. As soon as the stick comes back below 90%, C1 or C2 goes OFF and so Log1 goes OFF again.
Log1 now becomes the switch you assign to the rates or flight mode. Go to your rate or flight mode as usual and assign a switch but instead of say S01, assign Log1. If you use it for rates, then for normal work the rate is ON and you want it OFF at full rudder, whereas Log1 goes ON at full rudder, so when you assign it with the rudder stick at neutral assign Log1*. Now when you move full rudder stick the rate switch goes OFF and you get full travel. If you assign it to a mode switch then of course you assign Log1* to that 3d or spin mode.
Blimey, it takes me 3 times as long to type it as it does to program it!!
You might want a manual over-ride so that you can switch on the 3d rate/mode without having to move full rudder. Well you can just add a physical switch as input 3 to Log1. Menu 2, switches, Log1, input 3, and set it so S01 or S06 or whatever, using R to toggle the * to the correct switch direction. So now either way 90+% rudder, or your physical switch, will change the rate/mode.
Harry
IF rudder is full left OR full right THEN change the switch
This involves sensing the position of the rudder stick and then applying that position to a logical OR operation to alter the switch. We need two control switches, one to detect left and one to detect right stick. Then we pass the results of those two switches through a Logical switch and if either of the two control switches goes ON the Logical switch will toggle its output state. For example we will use a stick movement of 90% either way to trigger the switches, and I assume your rudder is stick A.
Menu 2, switches, control switch 1, from control A, 1-point, max+90%
Control switch 2, from control A, 1-point, max -90%
Those 2 control switches sense if the rudder stick is at or beyond 90% either way.
Then menu 2, switches, Logical sw:Log1
Input 1, OR, C1-A(arrow) C1-A means control switch 1 set from the A stick, which is what we set up in the control switches. If you see C1-A(arrow)* switch off the asterisk with the R button. Now if you move the rudder stick beyond 90% one way the * will appear next to C1-A, but not at any other point of the stick movement. Move up to input 2, it will still say OR and set the input to C2-A(arrow), R out the * if it is there. Now move the rudder stick the other way and C2 will suddenly * at one end, the opposite way to C1, but at no other point.
So what happens now is the output of Log 1 is OFF. But when C1 or C2 go * beyond 90% stick, Log 1 also goes ON. As soon as the stick comes back below 90%, C1 or C2 goes OFF and so Log1 goes OFF again.
Log1 now becomes the switch you assign to the rates or flight mode. Go to your rate or flight mode as usual and assign a switch but instead of say S01, assign Log1. If you use it for rates, then for normal work the rate is ON and you want it OFF at full rudder, whereas Log1 goes ON at full rudder, so when you assign it with the rudder stick at neutral assign Log1*. Now when you move full rudder stick the rate switch goes OFF and you get full travel. If you assign it to a mode switch then of course you assign Log1* to that 3d or spin mode.
Blimey, it takes me 3 times as long to type it as it does to program it!!
You might want a manual over-ride so that you can switch on the 3d rate/mode without having to move full rudder. Well you can just add a physical switch as input 3 to Log1. Menu 2, switches, Log1, input 3, and set it so S01 or S06 or whatever, using R to toggle the * to the correct switch direction. So now either way 90+% rudder, or your physical switch, will change the rate/mode.
Harry
