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Cutting bridge in reciever

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Old 11-28-2002, 06:30 PM
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Rcpilot
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Default Cutting bridge in reciever

Rather than buy an expensive Isolator for a plane, I've been investigating cutting the bridge in the reciever.

I would like to run a 4.8V pack for the reciever and a 6V pack for the servos. While this can be accomplished with an Isolator; the gadget costs about $80.

Anyone have any experience with cutting the bridge in a reciever? I'm talking about a JR R600 or a Hitec 555 reciever.

Is it true that I can run a seperate pack for an individual servo by using a Y-harness and simply cutting the positive lead on the reciever end of the plug; thereby preventing the current from passing through the reciever, and only allowing it to run to the servo? My understanding is that you simply cut the positive lead and heat shrink it for protection and then plug the servo and battery into the two ends of the Y-harness. Will this work?

If I can get by with using the Y-harness, then there will be no need to cut the bridge in the reciever. I have one HUGE servo for my rudder on a large plane. I would like to run a dedicated pack for this servo if possible. But, I don't want to spend $80 to accomplish the end result.

The reason that I'm even thinking about doing this is because I've got a rediculously tail heavy plane here. I'm mounting elevator servos (2) in the tank compartment and mounting throttle servo (JR517) on the outside of the firewall. A single or multiple battery packs will be mounted in the tank compartment as well. Tank is mounted just forward of the CG and will need a pump on the backplate of the engine(ballast).

Some would say, "Just put lead in the nose and fly the sucker."

I'm more into experimenting with "usable" weight and strategic locations for ballast.

Thanks

Ballast, ballast, ballast.
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Old 11-30-2002, 03:07 PM
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Default Cutting bridge in reciever

You can supply seperate power to one or more servos. A Y connector would work .Cut red lead,This goes to 6 volt battery,a black wire must also be coonected to the 6 volt battery this could be spliced on at the Y connector. You would probably want to put a switch and charging jack in also.The servo needs a black wire and signal wire (yel,white ,orange ) to come from receiver.It also needs a black and red to come from the 6 volt battery.If the servo draws a lot of current you might want to use larger wire .
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Old 11-30-2002, 03:27 PM
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Default Re: Cutting bridge in reciever

Originally posted by Rcpilet
Rather than buy an expensive Isolator for a plane, I've been investigating cutting the bridge in the reciever.

I would like to run a 4.8V pack for the reciever and a 6V pack for the servos. While this can be accomplished with an Isolator; the gadget costs about $80.

Anyone have any experience with cutting the bridge in a reciever? I'm talking about a JR R600 or a Hitec 555 reciever.

Is it true that I can run a seperate pack for an individual servo by using a Y-harness and simply cutting the positive lead on the reciever end of the plug; thereby preventing the current from passing through the reciever, and only allowing it to run to the servo? My understanding is that you simply cut the positive lead and heat shrink it for protection and then plug the servo and battery into the two ends of the Y-harness. Will this work?

If I can get by with using the Y-harness, then there will be no need to cut the bridge in the reciever. I have one HUGE servo for my rudder on a large plane. I would like to run a dedicated pack for this servo if possible. But, I don't want to spend $80 to accomplish the end result.

The reason that I'm even thinking about doing this is because I've got a rediculously tail heavy plane here. I'm mounting elevator servos (2) in the tank compartment and mounting throttle servo (JR517) on the outside of the firewall. A single or multiple battery packs will be mounted in the tank compartment as well. Tank is mounted just forward of the CG and will need a pump on the backplate of the engine(ballast).

Some would say, "Just put lead in the nose and fly the sucker."

I'm more into experimenting with "usable" weight and strategic locations for ballast.

Thanks

Ballast, ballast, ballast.

Nothing comes cheap if you want to get it right.
http://www.geocities.com/roger_forgues/batteries.html
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Old 12-01-2002, 05:38 PM
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ALbert.S
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Default Cutting bridge in reciever

To make one servo work off seperate battery pack using "Y" harness
1.Cut red wire on the lead that plugs into receiver insulate ends with shrink tubing or whatever method you like
2.Plug into receiver
3.Plug 6 volt battery pack switch harness into one of the servo plugs
4.Plug hi power servo into the other plug
5.Plug 4.8 volt battery pack into receiver in it's regular place
6.Turn on both switches to operate
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Old 12-01-2002, 10:04 PM
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Default Cutting bridge in reciever

I got the Y-harness and cut the red wire. Insulated both ends and plugged the whole thing in with switch harness. Works great.

Thanks very much
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