ttmv

is there a easy way to make extension? Holding the wire and crimping can be hard to do.

BuschBarber

My Feedback: (2)

Companies like MAXX Products sell Crimpers, Pins, and Plastic Connectors. You can also buy just the pigtails and solder on the length of wire you need.

RJConnet

OK, All you guys that like to solder on your extensions. What is the best way to twist the bare wire ends before soldering to avoid ugly looking lumps under your shrink tubing? Would also like to minimize the length of the stripped portions to be soldered.......RJ

Mr. Mugen

To the OP..I was in the same dilema. I bought a 33% edge540 and started building away. Read as much as possible and read some more. I came to the conclusion that fiber optic servo extensions were the cheapest insurance for my throttle servo and the vibrations it will encounter. I found the write up on them here in the Edge540 build and review by Marc Vigod. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=474 He used these in his build and from the sounds of it had good luck. I went to this site http://www.forgues-research.com/ and ordered up a pair. I am now finally installing them. They are nice! It uses the ignition battery or another seperate battery for power and fiber optic trasmition of the signal eliminating the possibility of rf noise heading back to the rx via servo ext. If you use a seperate small pack like a 5 cell nimh then all that power is for your throttle servo only. Just another option to ponder.

Kevin

Clay Walters

I haven't heard a bunch of horror stories about servo extensions gone bad; ever. But, I can see where continuous plugging and unplugging would be their undoing. Its a pain but for my ailerons I've been dental-flossing the connection as an added precaution in case I need to ever pull it out but just can't imagine a benefit from soldering.

I am interested in how you would shove the ends of two trimmed wires together, twist, and get them to stay put while soldering. I've tried with intermittent success and when it worked out I could slide a piece of heatshrink over. But most of the time I've regretted the effort.

Regards,

Clay

Rodney

You do not have to twist them together. Just bare about 1/4 inch of each end of the wire to be soldered together. Put a bit of flux on each and tin each end. Now just lay the two tinned ends side by side (held together by some type of clamp -spring type clothes pins work well) and heat the junction. The two tinned wires now joint perfectly together with no additional solder required. Slip some heat shrink (you did put it on one of the wires before you joined them-right?) over the joint and heat shrink it. Neat joint just barely wider than the two wires laying side by side.

Mr. Mugen

Just got it hooked up and it works great in bench tests. Will test it thoroughly pre maiden once I can get it out and fired up.

Kevin

pilotpete2

With fine stranded wire as used in servos I use whats referred to as a line splice, strip about 3/8th inch then align the end of each wire so they're just short of the insulation, and gently twist them, you can get them real smooth with a little practice. If you do this or the way Rodney suggested just make sure you have a clamp to hold the wire while soldering. Two wooden spring type clothes pins glued to a piece of wood for a base is an invaluable tool
Good luck,
Pete

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

If you prefer pictures.... http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...der/index.html

Flying Sukhoi

Anyone just replacing the entire servo lead from the servo out for a one piece custom length with no extension connections ? Thanks.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Maybe things have changed in the last 50 years but when I was working on the LO Spacecraft NASA would not let us use soldered connections due to the fact the joint would have to be destroyed to inspect it. I use gold plated good quality extenders.
In emergency I have used spliced in extenders. I found if I did a neat parallel solder joint the heat shrink would sometimes slide off leaving the joint exposed. So I just twist them together and solder. That ugly lump will hold the heat shrink in place.