Matthewjshattuck

Okay so I need some help here. Being a noob when it comes to rc I have very little knowledge when it comes to this stuff. I know a TX is your transmitter (mine is 6ch) and your RX is your receiver (the thing that receives commands from your transmitter) and your ESC stands for electric speed controller. Great. So my question is, when you buy an atf or plug and play rc (ill use a plane for exampe) you need a tx and a rx. You plug in the rx and your ready to fly right? What if your no brand 2.4 ghz transmitter didnt come with a receiver, then can you just buy a 2.4 ghz one for it? Thanks in advance.

chuckk2

Your "no brand" 2.4 TX must use a compatible receiver.
Even within a brand, there can be compatibility issues.
The 2.4G systems typically use more than one channel, may frequency hop, and so forth.
Each scheme is generally not compatible with a different one.
For instance JR has two DSM2 and DSMX. A third one unique to JR is not compatible with Spectrum,
although the first two are compatible.

Futaba has more than one scheme as well.

(And so on!)

A.T.

As in post #2, the receivers are not usually interchangeable between brands and even then user must check that any under
consideration is compatible with Tx to be used.

With ESC there is also a problem in that many with BEC are good for use with two or three servo only, otherwise a switch mode regulator should be considered.
. Electronic Speed Control - Why BEC and LVC cause most EP RX problems, posts #2 & #3.
Much more information available under sub section
" FAQ = Answers for Beginners and Advanced RC'ers"
"Battery Care, Performance & DIY Battery Packs."
as well as
"ESC & BEC - Setup to prevent majority of all RF Problems, Brownouts & Crashes"
"Glitches & Jitter in Receiver, Servo & ESC - Causes and Cures"
"Servo - Alterations, Calculators, Databases, Leads, Repairs, Convert to an ESC or winch & FAQ."
below
"Radio Systems, Accessories, Alterations and FAQ" at
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links

Alan T.

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

These should help you:

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC POWERED FLIGHT
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7100376/tm.htm

How to select your first radio
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11303696/tm.htm

Six Keys to Success for new pilots
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2840882/tm.htm

Hat, Sunglasses, what else?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5008712

> THINGS TO CHECK ON AN RTF
> http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6582895/tm.htm

THINGS TO CHECK ON AN ARF
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70022

chuckk2

There are some minor changes from old posts on the general subject, and today's sort of agreed upon guide lines.
The Lipo Battery voltages seem to have drifted upwards in terms of what the minimum safe discharged voltage limit is.
If a Lipo is below 3.2v at rest, it may have sustained damage that can shorten the life, reduce the amount of usable charge,
increase the chance of individual cell failure, etc. 2.7v seems to be the "old" lower limit.
Maximum safe charge voltage is another one.
Really old lipos seem to have had a lower acceptable full charge voltage, somewhere between 3.7 and about 4.1V
4.2V is the currently accepted safe maximum. 4,15 has been offered as a voltage that still provide a high percentage of charge, yet
may increase battery life. 4.35v is considered the absolute maximum charge voltage under any conditions. Exceeding it
is dangerous, and can result in smoke, etc.

It's also important to note that battery chargers and common "off the shelf" digital voltmeters may not be exactly accurate at 4.20v.
Plus or minus 1/10V is actually a very accurate reading for the common voltmeters,
(I ended up getting a "reference standard" that actually puts out 4.200v to check my voltmeters.)
Of three dvms, one read high, one read low, and one was almost right on (.005V).