Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
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Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
Even though I've been flying RC a while, I've kind of lagged behind the times in some respects..and just bought my first 2.4gig radio last year.
Do the Tx and Rx batteries definitively drain quicker under the new system as opposed to the old 72 megahertz system??
I am scratching my head! There's a total of 5 standard servos in this Sig 40 Star 60...nothing fancy...no binding or any wrong doing...
Anyone out there experiencing the same dilemna or am I just losing my mind?
Do the Tx and Rx batteries definitively drain quicker under the new system as opposed to the old 72 megahertz system??
I am scratching my head! There's a total of 5 standard servos in this Sig 40 Star 60...nothing fancy...no binding or any wrong doing...
Anyone out there experiencing the same dilemna or am I just losing my mind?
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
I think it depends on who's radio system you are using. The systems that have two way telemetry like the Hitec Aurora 9 do use more battery since it is constantly sending data back and forth between the Tx and Rx. Lesser systems are probably comperable to the old 72 stuff.
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
Well my setup is pretty standard issue....2 servos on the ailerons, 1 on everything else.
They are S3004....not sure if they're even digital! I have a 1000 mAh battery pack...and nothing out of the ordinary. All control surfaces center properly and there's no binding or limit issues that would strain a servo.
Maybe I just got a bum battery pack?? I'm getting 3 flights on a fresh charge. I'm used to 4 to 6 on my old system! Maybe I should change out packs and see if I get better duration..
EDIT: It is the Futaba FASST series 6 channel.
They are S3004....not sure if they're even digital! I have a 1000 mAh battery pack...and nothing out of the ordinary. All control surfaces center properly and there's no binding or limit issues that would strain a servo.
Maybe I just got a bum battery pack?? I'm getting 3 flights on a fresh charge. I'm used to 4 to 6 on my old system! Maybe I should change out packs and see if I get better duration..
EDIT: It is the Futaba FASST series 6 channel.
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
To be honest I didn't even look to see if it was NiMH or Nicad...I will have to take a look....then run it through a cycler I guess
#8
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
What are you defining as "ready for recharge"? You can safely go down to 4.6 volts under load. If you are stopping at 4.8 volts, you still have at least a half full battery. As mentioned above, you need to form charge any Nixx battery before use or after a prolonged dormant spell. That is defined as charging at 0.1C for 16 hours. It is also wise to always do one of these slow charges (0.1C for 15 to 16 hours) every few weeks or so to keep the batteries in their best shape (balanced).
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
Yah I'm stopping at around 4.8 volts...just the way I've always done it. Afraid the bottom will fall out...
Is 0.1C the same rating as the standard wall charger?? Otherwise I just bought a Venom charger that I share with my bro who's got electric stuff...
Barracuda Doo makes some nice sleds but the problem is the only reliable mill by TimeBombardier is the 600...and I crave an 800! I thought about a Gade but Cat's crossover was just too kewl to pass up
Is 0.1C the same rating as the standard wall charger?? Otherwise I just bought a Venom charger that I share with my bro who's got electric stuff...
Barracuda Doo makes some nice sleds but the problem is the only reliable mill by TimeBombardier is the 600...and I crave an 800! I thought about a Gade but Cat's crossover was just too kewl to pass up
#10
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RE: Battery Life 2.4gig vs 72 mhz
Since a transmitter discharges at the same rate whether you are exercising the sticks or not, give your transmitter a full charge then (with the antenna extended if a 72 or 75 MHz unit-a 2.4GHz is always fully extended) turn it on and record the voltage every 15 minutes or so until the low voltage alarm goes off. I think you will be surprised at how long you will find that you can safely run the transmitter on a full charge.
If you have a wall wart charger that came with your system, that should suffice to do the slow charge. You might want to check the current (you can not rely very well on the printed nameplate) by putting an ammeter in series with it to find the actual value. Divide the rated capacity of your transmitter battery by that value, multiply by 1.2 and that will give you the time to do the forming charge using the wall wart. Realize that this would be only an approximation as, if the current is not a pure DC (and it rarely is on wall wart as they are usually simple full wave rectifiers with no filtering) you will get a higher current reading than actually flows as ,unless you have root square meter, the form factor will skew the reading showing higher than the actual current.
If you have a wall wart charger that came with your system, that should suffice to do the slow charge. You might want to check the current (you can not rely very well on the printed nameplate) by putting an ammeter in series with it to find the actual value. Divide the rated capacity of your transmitter battery by that value, multiply by 1.2 and that will give you the time to do the forming charge using the wall wart. Realize that this would be only an approximation as, if the current is not a pure DC (and it rarely is on wall wart as they are usually simple full wave rectifiers with no filtering) you will get a higher current reading than actually flows as ,unless you have root square meter, the form factor will skew the reading showing higher than the actual current.