pputkowski

It says that you have to fill the shocks with the supplied oil before you run it but I didn't get any oil and the shocks seem pretty stiff as it is. Is this just a typo thing or am I really supposed to have some oil in here? Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks,
-Patrick

PS: Pics coming as soon as I get the Venom stuff (VSM, VFS, VTM) on it!

UNCDROCK57

Yeah, it said the same thing with mine. I took one of the shocks off to see if they had oil in them abd they do, so I'm guessing it was a typo.

jmt1

I think the only reason it said that was because the instructions are for it as a kit. Not RTR...not sure but mine had oil.

On another note...does anyone have a TigerDrive on their NX-15?

T-MAN-iR

You don't have to worry about filling your RTR CT4S shocks. There is already oil in the shocks. But you do have to glue your tires. Or at-least I had too. How long has everone had there CT4S? I have had mine for about 2 months and I love it. I have had some problems with it. The front drive belt likes to come off. And I replaced the belt last night. So you really can't be too ruff with the car. Try not to hit any curbs with it. And watch out for little rocks. The small oval under the first and second gear on the trany likes to pull in rocks. Last month I had to replace the 42 T gear (the green one) because of rocks getting stuck and shreading 2 teeth back to back. So I got some aluminium tape and covered the hole. So far its helping.

UNCDROCK57

I've had mine for about two weeks. I haven't completely broken her in yet but I'm still working on that. I have made a few changes to her. I have put a three shoe clutch on her and while I was at it I had an old force P4 engine so I swapped the P4 carb for the stock one. So right now I have a big block carb on the stock engine. I have drove her alittle since I swapped the carb but I haven't run into any problems so far. She idles and runs fine right now. I hope that the bigger carb will help some because of the bigger venture and what not. What do you CEN guys think of the Carb switch?

jmt1

I've had mine for about 5 months...haven't been driving it a lot though. This is my first R/C and I love it when it's running. I just installed a Tiger Drive, pretty nice so far but I have been having problems starting the stock engine. Does anyone use plugs that are not the stock ones? LHS said that a McCoy MC-9 should work fine, when I tried it, it fired up but ran kinda hot...after that last run I haven't been able to get her to start and idle. When I can...for a few seconds, if I gas it or hit the brakes it dies...I did just install the metal disk brake!

Can anyone advise?

One last thing, I stripped an engine mount bolt, from the bottom of the chassis, is this gonna affect how the engine will run. I know it vibrates a lot so will the engine not be balanced, or any other problems? Thanks!

T-MAN-iR

You may want to get a new mount. You want your motor to be secure. I am not sure about the glowplug. I replaced my glowplug with another other than stock and it is working great. I want to say it was an O.S. 8 medium plug. I will double check and let you know forsure.

Theres alot of things that could be the problem with your motor dieing at idle. Check you low idle setting. It may need to be ajusted. Check your plug it may be fowed up. And you maybe using too hot of a plug that will cause predetenation. Thats not real good. If you don't know, thats where the plug will fire before there is fuel to burn. Hope some of this helps.

jmt1

I just got it started tonight. I replaced the old plug with a new one. same cen one that came stock. Now every time I take the IGNITER off, it stalls. It is still stalling when I throttle or brake. Thanks.

T-MAN-iR

Check your fuel lines for air leaks and your fuel tank. You could be lossing fuel preasure. Check your low end and idle. You maybe too rich or lean. Also an easy check, when you start your car make sure that the carborator is slightly open. You don't want it to be closed all the way. If its not open enough there may not be enough fuel going in to the carb. Make sure your air cleaner is clean of dirt and any dabree. I will look for some sites that may have other things to check. Worse off, you may need a new motor or rebuild the one you have. I would say if you have to rebuild, I would go ahead and save for a .21 motor. Its bigger than the .15 that comes with the CT4S. Most people that get the CT4R get the .21 motor.

Good Luck!

kylebrowneye

i was concidering a cen ct-4s, is it uncontrollable, and a good basher, im not going to race for a while so is it worth it?
[:'(][:@][8D][]

jmt1

I have liked it, my first r/c and nitro car...I just started having problems with it. I have new fuel lines in, and the air filter is off, while tuning it. I just got new fuel. I hope I don't have to rebuild already...Do most new .21 motors come with the mounts, and pipes...what about that new RAL MICRON? .21, i think it is available as a pull start...I hope my tiger drive will fit though. Any signs I can tell if the piston or sleeve need to be replaced? Thanks!

UPDATE:
I got the car running today and started doing a few circles in the street. I could only keep the thing on if I was constantly on the throttle. I would start it that way and just keep running it. I would full throttle but it didn't seem like it was going anywhere. I noticed it reved high before it started to turn the gears. I did notice some substance on the clutch bell. I tightened the clutch bell and loosened the pawl setting a tad. It still needs tons of work but I need to study tonight. Let me know if anyone has any tips.

T-MAN-iR

jmt1, where did you buy your Tiger Drive? And how much?

I wish I could help you more with your problem. I am pretty new to Nitro cars. I can only tell you what I have read. Have you checked your fuel tank for air leaks. Check if anything is binding, the gears, belt, bell housing, clutch, etc. Just do a complete look over for anything. If you haven't, take apart your clutch. You may need to replace something inside.

If you have tried what I suggested then I am not sure what your cars problem is. But if I find anything else out, I will let you know. Keep us informed on what you find out and what you do for your car to fix it. Incase this happens to some of us.

Thanks and Good Luck!!

T-MAN-iR

kylebrowneye, the CEN CT4S is pretty reliable. It is not really that hard to control. It does take some practice, but not that long. You just need to get use to the radio and its limitations. Come this Christmas I am going to up-grade my radio to an Airtronics MX-3S. The radio that comes with the car is good, but it could be better.

The stock slicks are pretty good too. I have done some very hard driving on the stock tires and after about 2 month Iam now having to change them. I drive my car about 4 times a week. About 2 hours at a time. When the tires get too hot, thats when it gets hard to control. But when they are warm, they stick like glue. You will know when its time to change your tires. Hopefully you change them alittle sooner than I did. I found out the hard way. I was running at full speed or almost full speed when my car started to go sideways. The right side started to lift off the ground. I tried to compensate for the lift, but to no aval. My Subaru WRX STi CT4S began to role, starting on the left side. It did about 5 or 6 side roles and then began to sumersult. Nose to tail about 5 or 6 time as well as going airborne aobut 4 to 5 feet in the air. And continued to role end over end and side to side. I would say it roled about 20 times all together. About a 100 foot dictance. You don't realize how fast these cars go untill a disater happens like this. The damage was not that bad. Very fixable to continue driving the till the fuel I had in the tank ran out, but parts need before running again. The tip of the tune pipe that holds the pipe to the wire broke. So some electrical tap helped hold that back together so the pipe was not flopping around. The left rear wheel hub horn, for the toe in/out, broke. The section that the tie rod connects too. So I just put it on the lower end. It put the tie rod at a slant. The Lower front bumper bracket broke but still works. And the left rear bulk head broke. The front section that holds the hing pin in place that connects the lower A-Arm to the rear end. Hopefully the description helps. I will try and post pics of everything that broke. So before I run my car again I will be installing the Venom Super Grip tires.

Does anyone know how good this tires are, Venom Super Grip Tires. I haven't really here anything about them. But these tires do not us a foam insert. They have a honey comb inside and you put a ruber band around your rim and then put on the tire. The tires are pretty firm. Not spungey like tires with foam inserts.
Thanks!

maddrums25

My Feedback: (14)

Where is the best place to get parts for these (online), my hobby shos around here don't carry any CEN stuff. I tried that RCM off the CEN site but their shipping takes forever. If thats the only place to get parts i'll have to get rid of the car. I'm too impatient to wait over a week for my stuff[:@]

poor judgement

http://www.ehobbies.com/cen-racing-p...arts-list.html

jmt1

i have gotten stuff from toyhaus.com good prices and fast shipping, they are in cali though too...

HeadRushHobbies.com

[link]http://www.headrushhobbies.com[/link]
Headrushhobbies.com Stocks Cen Racing Parts .Low Prices And Fast Shipping.

Asmodi

T-MAN-iR... SUP

Quick everyone run its the NTC3+ owner invading your thread....

Naw just kidding, but from an outsiders opinion, as I had the oppurtunity to run with T-Man on the track this weekend, I would have to say that the CT-4S is a nice car, top speed is on par with the TC3 if not faster, however from what I saw the TC3 had the CT-4s in handling, braking and acceleration, I think CENs claim out of the box topspeed isnt that accurate, maybe with additional gearing.

Things I liked about his CT-4s (besides the fact that it could use a diet ), but the drive train was smooth, it took a beating, and ran without missing a beat. However like he addressed earlier rocks do get caught up in the belt.

Anyways was great fun, but we need to get more people out there to race so we dont have to corner marshall ourselves.

Best Upgrade for any of these touring cars imho would have to be a set of quality foam tires, you'll never go back once you get the right shore . A good start is 26mm, 40 shore fronts, 30mm 36 shore rears.

Also can't stress enough how nice the XXX Main chassis setup book

Quick note, if you intend to race the car, make sure you check on your class rules for engine limitations, as I know ROAR I can only run .12 3 ports, not .21s

T-MAN-iR

Hey Asmodi!!!. Good racing this weekend. Only if my car didn't break. After we had left, I noticed that part of my handling problem was, when I hit the wall, I broke the shock tower. That was where I losed the handling. But over all, the NTC3+ had it in braking and acceleration. I am missing about 10mph from the CEN CT4S claiming 70mph. But will some more twicking, and a smaller first gear it would be a good run on the acceleration. Yes the CT4S does need to be lighter. The graphite upper deck and some other part changes or taking off what you really don't need. It would be a faster car.

Hopefully on our next trip out we will have some more people and the cars that are down will be back and running. I checked the calender and Friday Nov 12, 13 and 14 we will be off to go race, as long as its not snowing