Igotntc3andrevo

Took about .33 to .5 of a pound off the beauty i just hope it is balanced[X(] What ya think?[img][/img]

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

Looks good but IMHO if you're going for light weight you should take off all that heavy aluminum and plastic, get the AE carbon parts instead.

David D

Man you must have the worst run time ever! That is like a 40cc tank, and 3 cc engine. Anyway other than that it looks good.

Igotntc3andrevo

I no that the aluminum diff cases weigh it down but if i get the fix for the flaw in the diff cases thats just as much weight and for the knucles and shock tower thats just for show ummm i wonder what i could get the weight to if i put on my ther carbon fiber knucles and shock towers???????

Saboteur10573

CF and graphite are lighter than aluminum and other allows. It's better to stay with that upper deck than to go with alum parts and a smaller tank. The .18cvrx will drink that dry in no time. It also throws off the balance.

Igotntc3andrevo

fellas for the last time im going straight for 3 seconds or less this car is not driven around a course i am not going to use all the gas in a few seconds. I quit on road racing and my balance shouldn't be off to much because the missing radio tray and a few others should off set the smaller gas tank. but thanks for the comments any way

armedtotheteeth

Carbon fiber, when subject to vibration and stress, will crack and fray. Mounting an engine on a carbon fiber tray like that is a recipe for distaster, but good luck. I would get a Vantage racing pipe and aother carbon items and just turn it in to a show car. I guarantee that the CF chassis will break.

Rs43EVOman

Waity are you the person who drags, becuase or lese that little tank is really a dumb way of loosing weight.

Igotntc3andrevo

Guys the only thing i do with this car is DRAG stop mentioning stuff about the gas tank because as i said i only run for around 10 sec at the most second i have went through the whole racing season with the carbon fiber chassis and have yet to see any problems armedtotheteeth and the motor is mounted to an aluminum plate then that is fastended to the chassis. Do you all read the posts that preceed the one you are posting because you all are saying the same thing i hope this will sum up all of you alls worries with my car i have ran the car countless times and have had no problems out of the chassis the only new thing is the gas tank. and i have done racing around the track and i am not stupid and would not put a smaller tank on a car when in a few laps i would have to keep refulling it and losing time i am not new to the hobby.

Saboteur10573

Wow calm down dude, and atleast manage to stop using "and" in every sentence without periods - that makes you sound noobish. Anyway, truthfully that won't help you in a drag situation. Depending on traction, gear ratio, clutch tuning, pipe and engine tuning, another NTC3 with its upper deck, standard chassis, and full sized tank will win against your setup. Lightening a vehicle can make it accelerate faster, but by only so much. Another side to that is the car becomes more responsive. Everyone else is giving you a few pointers to aide you. How thick is that carbon fiber chassis? Every seen a car wreck?[X(]

Saboteur10573

PS. You never mentioned about dragging, how long, where you're doing it, or even showed that it has an aluminum engine mount. You have no reason to get in a hissy fit..

Igotntc3andrevo

The chassis is about the same thickness as the stock one, my gear ratio is very large pinion gears and small spur gears is that good?The drag strip is around 220 feet long and i have a solid rear axle i have the rpm tuned exhaust and do you have any other ideas that would help it out i figured i didn't have any more tuning options so i started to lighten it up what else is there to do?

Igotntc3andrevo

p.s. ive wrecked a few of my rc's but nothing to the point of shear distruction but i no if i crash it isn't going to be pretty but thats a risk im willing to take im a pretty good driver as ive been in the hobby for a while so that limits the probability of an accident even more.

Saboteur10573

What number of teeth are on the pinion and spur? Find that out and check out the NTC3 gear ratio chart to show you where you are. Tune engine for performance and try a few laps. See how your tires hold up and grip. Do you have a centax or standard shoe clutch?

Igotntc3andrevo

I am running the standard two shoe clutch with the none pull flywheel and i have 23tooth pinion and a 27 tooth pinion running with a 48 and a 52 spur gear where is the gear chart and i don't think i can find a vantage pipe for a nitro tc3 i don't think they are made.

Saboteur10573

Vantage only makes for the RS4 3, regular rear exhaust cars, and the kyosho fw05/cd3 pro style. No side exhausts. RD logics and THS make pipes for the NTC3 otherwise the stock pipes are great.

AJ DRAGON

Hi

Have you ever thought about putting a big block on it, like an OS .30.

Saboteur10573

That won't help. Unless you manage to actually get wider rear tires, but the thing is you'd have to gear shorter to accomondate the larger tires. Slappin a BB won't always help. The OS .18tz would be the only thing I'd put in there...it being the same size as a .12/.18.

Igotntc3andrevo

once my .18 cvr dies i am thinking of the os tz but i was also looking at team orions new rev motors they look pretty promising. I wouldn;t put a big block in this car unless i took off the carbon fiber chassis. a big block i think would be to much for it but i am thinking seriously about the .18 tz. i just don't want to have to buy a new exhaust set up when i switch to a rear exhaust motor.

Saboteur10573

Bare in mind the .18TZ makes 2.33 HP and revs upto 40k. Still has SICK power right there...as much or more HP than a sport engine with RPM of a circuit engine. So it's STILL fast. You can do a resize for the .18cvrx if its in still good shape for $30. The sleeve is just pinched and the piston are cleaned up.

Igotntc3andrevo

yeah ive heard of piston resizing. I have seen the tZ run and i have kept up with it pretty well and beat it a few times but that is because it was in a diffrent car and the ntc3's it was in was just the factory one no other hop ups such as gearing and such. but i don't think i would have to worry about the tz doing any thing to the car. I think it is pretty strong but if i keep it up the wieght of my car will match the horse power of the mill i put in it
wouldnt that be sumthin

Saboteur10573

Well adding weight won't help. The moving parts are what gets damaged more such as the spurs, pinions, diff gears, and bearings in the shafts.

impalahenn

I have 3 ntc3's 2 ver-2 and 1 ver-1. When does your car shift?If it shifts too fast you will lose torque too early. If it shifts late in the race you can save weight by changing to a 1 speed. you can get alot of low end, and the .18 shound spool up faster with one pinoin gear not two. ALSO get a set of foam tires on it , there is no need to ease into it, they hook up right away.

impalahenn

After looking at the pics more I agree with everyone about tha aluminum. The only thing aluminum parts do is break the plastic ones faster. If everything is plastic it can all flex together. Looks like the crews are stainless steel. Change all those aluminum. Steel is for buildings. Not trying to bash just trying to help. good luck .

Igotntc3andrevo

thanks impalahenn I just had my boss order the aluminum screws and i agree about the aluminum the graphite jus looks so plain