Starting Engine & Maintaining Whilst Full throttle
06-23-2008, 12:38 PM
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Starting Engine & Maintaining Whilst Full throttle
Hi there,
Im having issues with my RC Nitro car, When the car is at idle it is fine and it will drive slowly, However if i go full throttle the car is very slow and just dies on me... I dont understand these engines at all.. I bought it just to play on, However i do see soon if its not sorted i will be taking it back. Had it 3 days now ran the engine in etc etc... Any suggestions would be nice as i aint played on it once yet, which was my intentions when i bought the car.
Please help guys.
Dean
Im having issues with my RC Nitro car, When the car is at idle it is fine and it will drive slowly, However if i go full throttle the car is very slow and just dies on me... I dont understand these engines at all.. I bought it just to play on, However i do see soon if its not sorted i will be taking it back. Had it 3 days now ran the engine in etc etc... Any suggestions would be nice as i aint played on it once yet, which was my intentions when i bought the car.
Please help guys.
Dean
06-23-2008, 01:12 PM
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RE: Starting Engine & Maintaining Whilst Full throttle
]I was having very similar problems and it was very frustrating for me until I found the "Tuning in a Pinch" method. I know a little bit about tuning two stroke but for some reason I could not get my AE .15 dialed in for the life of me. Everytime I got on the throttle it would end up dying on me. Every needle setting I tried just made it worse. I was also having trouble getting the engine to turn over. It took probably about 50 pulls on the starter. I came to realize it was all my low needle that I just could not get set right for the life of me. Heres what I did to fix everything and It worked like a charm. My engine now turns over on the 3rd - 5th pull and I am getting performance from my ntc3 that I wasnt thought possible.
1) Turn in all your needles (clockwise) until they are fully closed....but dont force them shut or you can ruin the carb.
2) Restore the high and low needles to their factory settings....depending on the engine it is usually 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns out (counterclockwise)
3) Open the idle screw so there is 1mm - 2mm gap in the carb opening. (You will need to pull off the air filter to see this)
4) Follow the pinch tuning method to get your low needle set properly. I cut and pasted it below. That text and more helpful info can be found here: [link=http://www.*********.org/engine-tuning.htm]Engine Tuning[/link]
Tuning in a Pinch
Many racers find it difficult to properly tune the low speed needle. We've developed a method that makes it easy, even for beginners, to adjust the low speed needle to within 5% of peak performance and it's done right on the bench. We call it the pinch test and here's how it works.
Step 1. Start your engine and warm it up for about 30 seconds by revving the engine from idle to mid-throttle while holding the wheels off the ground.
Step 2. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds. If the low speed needle tuning is so far off that it won't idle, simply bump the idle position higher until the engine will reliably run at a higher idle.
Step 3. With the engine at idle, pinch and hold the fuel line near the carburetor, cutting off the fuel flow and carefully listen to the engine rpm.
If the low speed needle is set correctly, the engine should increase rpm only slightly and then die.
If the engine increases several hundred rpm before dying, then the low speed needle is too rich and needs to be turned in.
If the rpm doesn't increase at all and the engine simply dies, the low speed needle is set too lean and should be richened or turned out.
5) Turn in (lean) the high speed needle until you get the best performance possible on the top end (high speed). You will be able to tell how it is tuned by the pitch of the engine and the cloud of smoke on throttle. You want a nice high pitch from the engine and you always want to see a little bit of blue smoke from the exhaust when your on the throttle. If you have no smoke on throttle then you are too lean and risk overheating and ruining the engine. It is also a good idea to pick up a handheld temp gauge. You want the engine head to be between 225 deg F to 300 deg F. Alternatively you can do the spit test for a much less scientific method.
6) Turn out (richen) the high speed needle 1/16 turn when you think all your settings are perfect. This is a safety measure to insure you are not to lean.
7) Enjoy!
1) Turn in all your needles (clockwise) until they are fully closed....but dont force them shut or you can ruin the carb.
2) Restore the high and low needles to their factory settings....depending on the engine it is usually 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns out (counterclockwise)
3) Open the idle screw so there is 1mm - 2mm gap in the carb opening. (You will need to pull off the air filter to see this)
4) Follow the pinch tuning method to get your low needle set properly. I cut and pasted it below. That text and more helpful info can be found here: [link=http://www.*********.org/engine-tuning.htm]Engine Tuning[/link]
Tuning in a Pinch
Many racers find it difficult to properly tune the low speed needle. We've developed a method that makes it easy, even for beginners, to adjust the low speed needle to within 5% of peak performance and it's done right on the bench. We call it the pinch test and here's how it works.
Step 1. Start your engine and warm it up for about 30 seconds by revving the engine from idle to mid-throttle while holding the wheels off the ground.
Step 2. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds. If the low speed needle tuning is so far off that it won't idle, simply bump the idle position higher until the engine will reliably run at a higher idle.
Step 3. With the engine at idle, pinch and hold the fuel line near the carburetor, cutting off the fuel flow and carefully listen to the engine rpm.
If the low speed needle is set correctly, the engine should increase rpm only slightly and then die.
If the engine increases several hundred rpm before dying, then the low speed needle is too rich and needs to be turned in.
If the rpm doesn't increase at all and the engine simply dies, the low speed needle is set too lean and should be richened or turned out.
5) Turn in (lean) the high speed needle until you get the best performance possible on the top end (high speed). You will be able to tell how it is tuned by the pitch of the engine and the cloud of smoke on throttle. You want a nice high pitch from the engine and you always want to see a little bit of blue smoke from the exhaust when your on the throttle. If you have no smoke on throttle then you are too lean and risk overheating and ruining the engine. It is also a good idea to pick up a handheld temp gauge. You want the engine head to be between 225 deg F to 300 deg F. Alternatively you can do the spit test for a much less scientific method.
6) Turn out (richen) the high speed needle 1/16 turn when you think all your settings are perfect. This is a safety measure to insure you are not to lean.
7) Enjoy!
06-24-2008, 08:48 PM
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RE: Starting Engine & Maintaining Whilst Full throttle
Great!...I'm glad it worked for you too. I have been messing with 2 strokes for many years and that pinch method is by far the best way to get a good low speed needle setting. It is just a starting point really but it helps alot to get a jump on a good tune.
