stasik-a4

Hey guys.... I have just got my self a 1st nitro 1/10th nitro rc car... and im just wondering how do you guys maintain it? and what would you recomend doing and not doing and what to use and not to use....?
Just want to make sure that its allways in a good shape.... and lasts...

Thanks

sexydingles

My Feedback: (2)

after run oil after every use... clean air filter a lot. and always take a day about every month or so to break it all down and clean it really good. get a fuel filter also that should help. just pretty much regular maintenence... kind of like you'd do a race car... check everything over really good, make sure its not broke or anything loose... its just good to keep up with it... you have probably over five hundred big ones at least invested if its your first with nitro fuel and batteries and what not. so just make sure its tip top shape before you run every time, sounds annoying but it can actually be pretty relaxing. and saves you a lot of trouble when say a tire or something flies off because of something as stupid as a little nut may be loose and youre now replacing alot more once that happens. use 20 percent nitro, thats what i started off with. also get a heat gun and find your motor's max. operating temp and never exceed that. probably want to buy a handful of glowplugs also, theyre good to have around... never know when youre going to need one. oh and dont store your fuel on concrete, i dont know what happens but somehow it effects the fuel.

CBM Racing

All of the above, and get some motor spray or carb cleaner. I use it on cooling head near glowplug to keep it clean so if I need to change plug I don't get any debris in engine. If you have an air compressor, blow it off often so grime and dirt doesn't get a chance to really build up. As mentioned, spare glowplugs and I would reccommend spare bearings and nuts for wheels. Locktite any metal to metal screws such as engine mounts and drive line parts, and check them before a big outing. During breakin, keep an eye out for oil/fuel residue for signs of leaky exhaust joints and fuel line leaks. If so, fix right away to avoid big hassles later[:'(]. Charge batteries fully before running, and replace them if show signs of losing capacity. Check screws in bottom of chassis often for tightness, and replace the ones that get scuffed up before they get so bad you can't remove them without dremeling. Use a throttle return spring, a failsafe wont help if your battery falls out or your linkage comes loose! If your car has cvd's, check the set screw that holds the pin in near the wheel bearing, if pin comes loose it'll chew up your suspension arms and ruin your day.If it is belt drive, check them often for damage and small debris trapped in pulleys and gears. Keep some extras on hand if you can, same for dogbones if shaft driven. The list could keep on going...It really doesn't take long for any of this stuff, pretty basic, and it becomes habit after awhile. Took longer to type it than to do it! Have fun and drive hard!
Also get a couple packs of tooth brushes and simple green, works great for degriming!

stasik-a4

Thanks a lot.... for all that....
I have got a fusion28 and im only on 20% thrtle cause its tooooo fast.... i have got the some soft tyres and some common parts that break as spares and i have allready replaced some..... hence why i reduced the trottle.....

Yea i need to have a good play around with the setting and tunning.... I was recomended to use a 5% nitro to run the engine in and then 20% afterwards..... i was not adviced to use the after run oil.... what else can i use insted of that?
I have noticed that it does pick up a lot of rubbish and grime from the road.... and i have just used the brake cleaner to wash most of it off....

What temperature would you recomend running the engine at? i have read and people say 180-240 degrees.... but no one mentiones whether its celcius or ferenhite?

snowbl!nd

After run oil isn't required after every run (despite the name!) but you should use it if you're not going to be running the engine for a few weeks or more. Nitro fuel is hygroscopic - meaning it attracts moisture from the air - so without a protective film of oil you'll end up with rust in your engine.

Tune for performance and don't worry about temperature - it's not heat which kills engines but the lack of lubrication which often results from a lean mixture setting.

stasik-a4

So what would you bee looking for when tunning the car? What process or steps that i need to follow when tuning it? it runs and runs ok but im not sure if its tuned properly if its lean or rich or perfect....?
As i have mentioned it before im new to this and willing to learn about this whole fun....

mankal

My Feedback: (1)

It is Farenheit....If you want it in Celcius it would be 82-116

Cypriot Boy

yes on celcius the top temp that your engine should be is 120 celcius. as for the after run oil i believe that it wont hurt your engine if you use it every time that you finish running. i put after run oil and then fire up my engine after 4 days, but if you will be firing your engine up every day then after run oil is not needed

Mufasa_719

I have always gone by Break the motor in with the same fuel that you are going to use.

If you dont have a temp gun on hand then these are the sight and sounds for a great running motor


Too Lean

Here are some symptoms of an engine that is running too lean:

1. Dies or "flames out" at full throttle.
2. The glow plug wire or "element" turns white.
3. A drop of water or spit on the engine heat immediately sizzles. Too hot.
4. Dies while just idling.
5. Dies while accelerating from idle. Note this can also be caused by a rich engine.




Too Rich

Here are some symptoms of an engine that is running too rich:

1. A lot of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe.
2. A lot of unburned fuel exiting the exhaust pipe.
3. Idles properly, but bogs down an dies when the throttle is full applied.
4. Never reaches full top speed.
5. Engine temperature is too cold (e.g. below 200 F degrees)


Sound-Exahust tone should be clear and crisp from idle to full speed.
Sight-Exahust smoke should be seen slightly at full speed.

These are the signs of a well tunded mill.
Always have a temp gun as a back up to keep an eye on your tuning job.
Shame I still dont own one LOL as I usauly find more hopups to get instead.

sexydingles

My Feedback: (2)

lol i heard that... i wouldn't have one still if it weren't for me noticing my dad sitting on his couch shooting random areas of the house, low and behold he had a 400 dollar raytek that he just played with... so i told him to fork it over. and now i have the raytek. you dont really need a heat gun if you know the symptoms of a hot or lean engine... but like he said, its always good to have around

stasik-a4

Thanks for all the info and tunning tips..... If i cant get my hands on some after run oil.... can i use something like wd40?
Also what have you guys found handles better with the suspenssion tunning? what setting have you found work best and what
dont work? I know that most of you will say to just play round and find out for your self.... but im just wondering in relation to
negative camber settings and toe in or out setting... and stiffness of the springs....? Thanks.

jamstar47

is it good to have tie straps on the cooling head i see lonts of people have them

gladcow

its so you dont scracth up the heat sink if you roll the thing over. not a necessity but if you parking lot bash chances are you will flip it sooner or later. i know i did [X(]