Brent Davis

I'd love to see other guys cars in video too. That inspires me more to get even busier with my stuff.

I don't think they are interested in making any specific big block mounts other than the ones that they already make. I have one set and they are o.k., you just gotta make some clearancing on the block or mounts to get that perfect fit but then too what else is a solid bolt on with aftermarket RC stuff too.

I have a brand new .18 TZ that is RBmod ported and will break it in and get some vids of it as well to see how well it works in my big tire CD3 and one of the small tire CD3's. I've never owned a .18 TZ.....only seen them since a couple of friends had them but they still didn't have the nuts of a .21 in the mid to top end charge but I just want one of the cars to have a small block in it for a change.

nitrohead5300

Brent have you heard anything about the Orion CRF-.21 ??

Brent Davis

Now that is what I am talking about.

What is the biggest difference with a .32 engine since I haven't seen one inside? I know it has a bigger piston over a .21 and the crank is heavy. Right now my .28 Picco P3 has not made it to the CD3 just yet but I gotta install it and see how well it is going to run in the CD3 but with this motor modded by clockworks racing engines, it rips it's azz off and has ran 1.7's in my Pro-Mod car with limited traction and on the wheelie bars.

Brent Davis

Not at all. Is it supposed to be the new kid on the block sorta speak?

nitrohead5300

Yes high tech

nitrorevo

Brent, thanks for all the help, and excellent work on the CD3 chassis. You took a chunk of weight out.

I got back in the zone today and tried to place my order to WPR for the engine mount and adapters. There was no place on the site to pay. Not by credit card, pay pal or nothing. What's up with that. they had a link to some shop that carries the product, but when you get to the site, the WPR products link don't work. I will just e-mail them for instructions.

This mount was made specifically for all HPI cars, shaft drive, so it should work well for me, at leaswt for $60 bucks it better. That has been my biggest concern. Getting the engine mounted. I have the rest figured out....I think.

WLF066; adjustable mounts fly wheel and cone; mounts brand name .21 engines in all belt ore shaft drive HPI cars ore trucks . Additional item needed; fly wheel nut kit Ofna#10098


I found these as well, for .21 engines for $16 bucks, but is a crap shoot weather they will work or not.

MiamizFinest

I think those are the OFNA buggy mounts for starter box motors, those looks EXATLY like the stock ones on the CRT .5 exept there grey, those moutsn do work great with a little dremeling here and there

Brent Davis

nitrorevo, no problem man. I hope to see pics and progress of your build as you go.

What car did you decide to build instead of the RS4?

nitrorevo

That's sounds good to me. I can dremel a little here and there. Mounts from the Ofna Pirate 1/10 scale M/T with Hyper .21 engine.

These are for the CRT .5 (HC, what ever that means). Any better, or just stick with the .21 mounts above. Both the same price, I just thought these looked a little tall for bump start, but very similar to the WPR mounts. They are all aluminum, so I could easily take a little 1mm or 2mm meat off the bottom and go with a large flywheel if necessary.

Thanks,

Over_revO

The orion latest CRF .21 is almost identical to a Picco .21 P7R, the CRF is Picco based.

nitrohead5300

Thanks OverRev.

nitrohead5300

I was just looking at the tower site, motor section a OS .12TZ Speed Spec II weights 7:33 oz at $400.00 plus dollars a pop a OS.18TZ weights 7.8 oz at $150.00 a pop . OS .18 tz only slightly heavier and a savings of $250.00 which I could used to have the OS .18 TZ extremely modified drop it in my V-1RRR and have the perfect high speed road racer . The guy I want to mod this motor AB Mods modified a .12 that was put in a Nitro TC-3 that beat a Big Block .28 Fusion in the Worlds Fastest RC Car Challenge ( US edition) The Nitro TC-3 with this .12 was propelled to 79mph.

MiamizFinest

nitrorevo, i took a really good luck at my CRT .5 motor mounts, a big block motor on those motor mounts sits about 3-4MM above the chassis so its pretty close and on that set up im useing a HPI savage 3 shoe fly wheel which is a standard size fly wheel and i have no problems with bump starting it

your right the ones you linked look pretty dam low but are you sure that the car they come off doesnt have a counter sunk hole under the motor????? im useing those grey mounts on a FLAT chassis and like i sayed the bottom of the motor is about 3-4MM above the chassis

try to find a pic of the stock chassis from where those orange mounts came from to make sure there is no counter sunk, but ill give you my word the grey ones that I PERSONALLY have will work

Brent Davis

Yeah that ABmodded .12 was a beast against those bigger motors no matter how well the gearing and cars were tuned for the motor, it did that speed with a .12 sized engine[X(]. Makes me wonder what in the heck was that guy thinking after getting beat by a .12.

While I am not a small block type of guy, I will see how well this .18 TZ is going to do but again, I just can't see how a comparable ABmods .18 TZ could run slower than it's counterpart ABmodded .12 TZ and both in the same chassis, same day, same fuel, etc. I am saying this based off ppl that said a .12 or .15 will run the same MPH as a .21 would with the same gearing but of course just how much quicker would the .21 get to it's top speed over the smaller engines but yet all run the same speeds....I'm not getting it.

Brent Davis

CBM, did you get the GPX4 yet? Any pics of it?

Nitorhead, man I know you have that K-factory fuel tank but boy is it close to your engine, is that a small heat shield or tape between the tank and engine? I've got a guy that PM'd me and wants to convert his NTC3 to a big block so I will get him the part numbers from the OFNA CD3 diff case, carrier/pinion and transmission. I have a source to make much stronger dogbones or CVD's too and wanted to know about that K-factory tank. He is sending a Murnan modded 35+21 drag modded motor($800 motor)[X(][X(] so it should be wicked once finished.

nitrorevo

Thank you sir! You just made my day. I was dreaming about engine mounts last night LOL. I will order they grey CRT .5 mounts now.

Brent,

The AB modded .12 that Problem Child got 79mph in the TC3 is the Picco JLR .12, not the O.S. 12TZ. The JLR .12 is stronger and for half the price. I broke a few hearts with mine, and I continue to be impressed with the engine. My JLR .12 is drag modded by Adam about at far as you can take, but is sensitive to pipe selection. You need the Picco 2607 pipe. I wouldn't hesitate to put it up against the .18TZ in a light car. It will have higher mid range/top end. In stock form the JLR .12 makes more HP at higher rpm. I compared both X-dyno graphs before I bought it. Modded the TZ is stronger as it has more tq., but still won't spin nearly as fast.

I had a O.S. 21TM modded by Adam. Way more tork than the .12. Based on my test, It would hole shot the .12 everytime just like you say a stronger engine would. The problem is, you use a big much of that power in the first 60-80ft. It is still accelerating but not nearly at the same pace. The power band was not the broad, but that's when the .12 get's sick wit it and just pulls away.

The good .21's are the same, when comaparing to the good 28's. The 21's make 6-8K rpm more than a good .28 and will have more top end with the same gearing. Geared lower the low end is more comparable and top end is about the same, and burns about half the fuel.

In this video Mike(OverrevO) did the tests for Adam on the O.S. 28XZ stock vs modded in the DM-1. He compares it to his stage(2) P9R. He runs basically the same distance and uses the same gearing in the DM-1 for both engines. Keep in mind that the AB modded O.S. 28 is flat out the strongest .28 you can get. Geared down the low end on the P9R is a little closer to the .28XZ with about the same top end. But at 90ozin. tq still not as strong. I will let the radar and video speak for itself. You will like the TZ footage as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3CRU5yuiX8


BTW, I am still between the RS4 and the CD3 build. The mounts I ordered for the P9R will make the decision on the car I build. If I can't make it work on the RS4, then I will order the CD3. AMain has them back in stock.

Over_revO

If i understand your question right, heres an answer.. :

To a given speed lets say 75 mph, and lets say you need 1.1hp to get to that speed in a given car..
And also lets say (lot of lets say..lol) that it is geared to get 35000rpm at 75.

The peak power of the .12TZ is probably in that area and is higher than the .18 TZ@35000, the .18TZ do have more peak power , but lower, the .12TZ may hold its peak longer in the powerband...




As a real example, during my testing of the ABmods drag modified OS28 vs my Picco .21 P9R ABmods stage 2

The OS have more peak hp and more peak torque than the Picco .21 P9R (2.51hp/91oz-in vs 2.35hp/70 oz-in)
but the peak of the OS28 is 28000 and the Picco .21 P9R is 34000

In the DM1 on stock gearing, the P9R could hit 73mph no problem when the OS28 could hit 71 without problem.
At first you can think wow , the OS get spanked by the P9R. wich is true... lol

But its only because of the gearing...theres a limit as how wide of a gearing a smaller engine can handle vs a bigger one. Thats why you need to gear the car to match the powerband for the speed you want...

hope it make sense..


All those thread make me want to build a CD3

nitrorevo

Mike,

Dude we have perfect timing bro. Always same time post.

We are on the same page. Gearing is your friend with higher torque engines. The problem is what we both have experinced in our builds is you run out of gearing. This means customizing the gears and then like I did mod the chassis to get the taller gearing to fit. After I got passed that hurdle. the next hurdle was running out of room to get the gearing to kick in. In my tests the higher rpm engine always win cause I didn't have the patience or distance. I was running 300ft when I probably needed 600ft or more with the bigger engine and taller gears.

With the higher RPM engine you automatically get the better mid/range top end and everybody makes shorter gearing to improve the low end if necessary.

That said, I am still building a little car with a big engine. Nothing like having all that low end grunt. LOL Come on and join us Mike.

Tracey

nitrohead5300

...........That gray spot you see is JB Weld somebody in my family stepped on that tank and split it. JB Weld kept it from leaking until I got a new one. I had to do some grinding and sanding to get it to fit without touching the motor, I had to grind down a screw on the motor a little bit so it would not touch. But if he is using a .21 engine he may not have the same space problems as I did because my motor is a .28

Brent Davis

Nitrorevo and Over_revo, I now understand now but I've never had a small block to compare to. You guys got a graph with the JLR .12 to a P9R .21?

Over_revo, go ahead and get a CD3 man or perhaps the LD3. They are cheap but have good enuff parts to handle the big block. I can get you some solid axles for the rear to do the big tire 1/8 scale tire deal if you want. Then we would be going at it. Man you are right in the DM-1 is a GREAT car to break a motor in and just have fun. I've got my Xenon in it right now and that car is fun as chit to drive. It is FAST as crap too.

nitrohead5300

Hey Guys I want this .18 OS TZ motor for road racing not drag . I don't think ABMODS drag motor is really design for roadracing.

Brent Davis

Gotcha. I think you're right about the .21 being shorter than the .28 LRP engine.

Nitrohead, did you get any vids of your TZ in the V-RRR yet?

Over_revo, have you ever had that .18 TZ installed in a 1/10 scale car or just the REVO? I have seen a video of a Serpent with the .18 TZ and that thing was an animal. Not sure if it was ported or not but it was fast for sure.

MiamizFinest

Brent like i sayed earlier the 18TZ is NO JOKE especially that its a 130 dollar motor.......my friend victor put one in a racer 2 like a year ago, ported it dropped 60% nitro fuel in it and did a whooping 92 MPH.............for 130 dollars to do 92 MPH that was a jaw dropper so if you have one OR are thinking about geting it GO FOR IT its worth the money


BTW i got my own question ive never EVER used the 8th wheels convertions on a 10th scale car i always wondered what 8th scale wheels do these convertions use Mugen OR Serpent 8th's??? also exactly how much wider is the car with the 8th scale wheel converters?? you got a caliber tool to give me an exact number???

nitrorevo

If you get the full set, you can mount all three. Or order specifically for the tires.

WLF063 -3- $82.00 DIRECT ONLY NO Dealers This set includes all adapters to use all foams ; front tiers , rear tiers ore front tiers only from Serpent, Proceed, ore Mugen . Hardware use same as on Serpent page.

Over_revO

The drag mod is not designed for racing(where runtime is important...), but is what give the most power for onroad since they add a lot of top end power.
But runtim will go down a little, the Stage 2 is the best of both world..


Brent, i never tried the OS.18TZ in anything else but i will instal it in my Jato and see if it will hold up single speed.

I got from 44mph to 50 mph after i modified the OS.18TZ on the stock gearing in my revo.

Like Miamizfinest said the TZ is a serious smallblock!


Ill try to pick an ofna Cd3 , wich one is better, the LD3 or CD3? and can the kawahara tire be a good alternative to the 1/8th scale tire mod you talked about?

Just sold my 4tec .... hehe