ferrarimk13

ohh, yeah, i would love to see that when u finish, lol. his seems like theres a lot more wires then mine, though, but i know the white one is the antenna. Futaba's wire is like 10 feet long, lol

phoenex1

I have the Futaba 2.4 fasst and it is great ---Very short antenna wire. I use them on all my cars and trucks. Fairly inexpensive and a ton of options.

OH BYE THE WAY ___HAPPY NEW YEAR

Krashu

I was thinking about putting it up front..never thought about the balance issue..

phoenex1

I'm not sure that it will be a problem placing the battery up front and if you decide to swap out the receiver and the pac you will need to be real careful when you fuel it ---I'm thinking if you place the receiver over the steering servo and the receiver pac toward the back you will be better off. I would also cover the receiver to protect it. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress

gladcow

once again i have a question for those more knowledgeable than me. i just got a new cv-rx for my evo 3 and im having trouble transferring drivetrain parts. For starters i can not for the life of me get the pilot shaft off the flywheel on the old t-15 engine. i found a socket driver to fit the nut but i cant hold the flywheel still to loosen it no matter how hard i grip it. if anyone has any suggestions i would be in great thanks.

phoenex1

I just saw what you are looking for in one of the magazines----SNAP-ON ---makes it. It is basicly a pair of channel locks with thick foam covered jaws. It was pictured in Xtreme RC Cars November 2007 edition on page 166. I searched the www.snapon.com website but couldn't find it. If you can't get the magazine let me know and I will scan the page for you. I think you could make the same thing with some rubber and strong glue.



HAPPY NEW YEAR

racer man05

well even the 1:1 K&N filter don't do a great job at stopping fine dust either but that won't stop me from using them on either application

Krashu

I just smacked the flywheel with a lump hammer and everything flew off. If you're not gonna be using the engine ya might as well..

SLiM Evo

I did it this way... Grab a towel grip it around the flywheel and give it the best grip of your life.. Turn hard and it will come off..

I never said it was easy

mattayl

hey guys what do you think about yeah racing?? are these shocks better than the ones on the 18ss+?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&ih=002

FoxRiderAR77

To get the fly wheel and such off I took a flat edge screw driver and put it in the exhaust port to keep the piston from moving and then just loosened everything. Not the best idea, but if you're not going to use the old engine it works fine

Krashu

Actually to add to what fox said.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPF86&P=7


The top of that screw driver screws into the glowplug hole and stops the piston moving. A safer way of doing what he said.

ferrarimk13

if youre thinking about using that engine again, i dont recommend doing that, but you could wrap a thing towel around it, and just jam it through the exhaust port, an clamp the nut superrrrrr hard like slim evo said. That nut is a real pain in the *****, so if you dont think its worth it, just buy another one for like $4

phoenex1

Had some time today and started to work on the modified housing for the receiver on the RS4 (Would be much easier to use the stock parts---Still may do that and scrap the graphite) I cut the stock parts down to a point where the receiver box is a separate piece and I'm going to mount it with screws in the approximate position shown in the pictures. There will be plenty of room for the wires and the receiver is small enough to be mounted almost as shown in the picture (In real life it will be upside down so the antenna wire can exit the box to the rear. The plan is to do the same for the battery pac but mount it under the graphite adjacent to the throttle servo. I'll keep you posted and post more photos if anyone is interested.



HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!

ferrarimk13

afterwards, where do you lead the antennae wire? back to the hole inthe graphite? and what shocks are u using?

phoenex1

I will run the atenna wire back under the upper deck and drill a hole to bring it up near the antenna post. The 2.4 has a very short antemnna wire as you can see from the picture.

ferrarimk13

the next thing i need is a hump pack, because i had to wrap the battery pack around the strip of graphite, so it doesnt move, and when i replace the batteries, ill have to undo everything, and tape it back on.

rexrw

For starters this is my first post to this thread. I just picked up a new 18ss 2 days ago. I have nitro buggies but this is my first HPI and forst nitro street car. I got the engine broke in no problem and was running great. Yesterday I tried running it and it kep bogging down and dying at mid throttle - leaned it out and it got past that but started stalling at full throttle - made it a little more rich and wouldn't make it past half throttle. I seriously spent about an hour just trying to tune the high speed needle to get it over the problem, couldn't get it. It was either to rich or to lean and couldn't get it right. Took it back to the shop I bought it from today and one of the guys came outside to see how it was running. Right away he said it was running to lean so he richened it up. At that point I was able to pin the throttle and it didn't stall at full or mid, was running real good. Came home ran about a tank in it and it started stalling when I was applying the brakes - turned the idle screw clockwise and solved that problem. So it sounds like everything is fixed and tuned correct now right? I think wrong. Just ran it about an hour ago and it took forever to get started. Once it got started I noticed it wa spitting an obscene amount of fuel out the muffler. I didn't have my tools with me so couldn't adjust anything but just seems like it is running way to rich now. I am afraid to lean it out because I might end up where I was at the start. Of all the nitro vehicles (all buggies) I have had I haven't had this many problems, I can always get them tuned right. Is this car just that finicky or what? Any suggestions about setting everything to factory (what are those seetings?) and starting over? I have only adjusted the high speedm nothing else. I am starting to turn sour on HPI and don't want to, I know these are sick cars but just can't get it right, can anyone help?

mattayl

if its the 18ss+ hpi. then i can empathise with you. the 18ss+ engine is very temperamental and during break in and for a little bit after its very hard to tune correctly. also the differnce in temperature on certain days can make the car run richer or leaner that could be a factor. but remember when crude unburnt oil is coming out of the exhaust it isnt a really bad thing, it just mean its just a bit lean. ihad the same problem and then after a few tanks of feul it went away because the engine had been fully broken in and used and also i leaned it out abit. dw u will get used to the engine and it will become easier and easier to tune. mine now taked 5-10 secs top to tune the engine each time i run it.

FoxRiderAR77

rexrw, temperature seems to definitely affect the tuning of the HPI engines. Also, the fuel spitting should go away once the engine is fully broken in, and once they're tuned correctly, HPI engines are great.

ferrarimk13

mattayl, its the other way around, when fuel is spitting out, that means its too richm, so he should lean out the idle, and adjust the servo epa, so when he gives brakes, it doesnt close the carb more than needed.

rexrw

Thanks for the replies. It is pretty cold here in AZ right now so I am sure the temperatures are playing into things a bit. Should I have to adjust the low speed needle at all? SO far I have just messed with the HS needle. Does anyone know what the factory settings are for the 18SS engine?

ferrarimk13

its in the manual, which i dont have, so im not sure. plus, i dont have the 18ss engine.

rexrw

I noticed my engine was all oily and wet, so I inspected for a leak. I found that 3 of the 4 screws that hol the rotostart on were missing and oil/fuel was leaking from there. I am on my way to the shop to get new screws but does anyone think this is what could have been causing the car to stall at full throttle? Can someone please chime in and let me know what they think about this causing the car to stall at full throttle.

mattayl

:O oops did i say its too lean when the oil comes out, i mean its too rich, sorry bad typo!