Vette09

Hey guys, just traded for a RS4 3. It's for my son. I want to put a .12 out of my R40 into it. It's a rear exhaust. Where can I get a header and a decent clutch for it. I would like to keep the R40 flywheel since it's already on the motor, but if it won't work I'll get a new one. Thanks.

Brian

madmax93

I would like to put my cv-rx w/slide carb on my RS4-3 but I'm not sure how to set up the throttle linkage. Could someone post a pic and a link to the components needed.
Thanks

nitrorevo

My above pic. is the rear mount RS4 header. You will want to go with the HPI 3 shoe flywheel and clutch with the .12 for higher stall than a standard 2 shoe clutch.

nitrorevo

This is the closed position of the throttle. I have played with many different setups for hours, and this works the best by far. You can also use the 4 side servo horn.

huminski

My Feedback: (23)

Hey,

I just picked up a new 18ss (assembled) from ebay with a bunch of extras, polished rear exhaust, polished aluminum nova head, extra wheels and tires, diff cases, gears, and an unpainted '68 Camaro SS body for $199 on ebay. Servos are JR Z4750 (96oz) on the steering and standard on the throttle. Just needs receiver. Seemed like a great deal, was it? The steering servo (when available) was $119 alone.

I'm looking forward to getting it and checking it out. I had an original Nitro RS4 with a nitro-star 15SS engine and a RS4-2 RTR, then took a break from the cars for a while. I recently got back into 8th scale buggies but wanted to get back into on road 1/10 as well if I could find a good deal. Saw this on ebay after searching around for a few weeks and it seemed like a smoking deal.

I'll post up pictures when I get it. Thoughts? Was it a good price?

Thanks.

JonKBMW

So recently my brake fell off

I have a GPM center mount which has some funky, different hardware than that which comes with the HPI car. Since the GPM unit is aluminum they use machine screws instead of plastic screws, and have shouldered slide for the one brake shoe to slide on. The one screw backed out so that my car basically has no brakes. I couldn't get in touch with GPM for new hardware (lost the screw and shouldered slide spacer) so I am improvising. I used my digital caliper to measure the hole in the shoe - its 5/32". That means to make slide for the shoe I would need 5/32" max OD tubing, and the ID would be the diameter of the screw. So, I went on McMaster and found:

[ul][*] Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, Black-oxide 18-8 Ss, M3 Sz,12mm Length, .5mm Pitch [*] 18-8 Ss Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, 5-40 Thread, 1/2" Length[*] Improved-strength Basic Aluminum (alloy 3003), 5/32" Od, .1283" Id, 1' Length
[/ul]

I ordered standard and metric screws just in case, and the aluminum rod only comes in a pack of 12 1' lengths (!) or 1 6' length. 12 1' lengths is probably easier to ship, so I got that.

I will be taking photos of how I redo this brake setup so that if this happens to someone else they can perhaps fix it

jarredjoffe

hey irealy need help

i just got a rs4 evo+ 3 and after breaking it in and running it outside i was realy happy.
i took it to the track and after a few runs i noticed something wrong. taking a look at the car, the right rear dogbone had popped out and the diff shaft had split in half wich obveously released the dogbone. then the front left arm had cracked on one of the hholes were it attaches to the bottom of the diff case.
now what to do?
should i replace the broken diff shaft with a heavy duty one advertised on hpi? or just a stock one?
should i replace all the arms with alloy arms? or replace the one with the same plastic one?
would it be worth while upgrading all the arms to alloy? or should i get lighter springs to stop all the force on the arm?

thanks

nitrorevo

That's all personal preference. The stock shafts are inexpensive. I would just replace it. You are not feeding enough power through it with the stock engine to require major upgrades. If you go with alloy, you will increase the weight of the car and decrease acceleration significantly.

phoenex1

Just looked at the eBay auction Looks like you made a good deal. The car sold new for over $300 plus all the extra parts.

jarredjoffe

isnt the 3.0 engine the upd one?

so its not worth upgrading the diff shaft to the heavy duty diff shaft? its like 2 bucks more i think.
would changing the springs to softer ones stop the arm from snapping at the joint becouse theres less pressure on it?
thanks

nitrorevo

It is a 3.0, but still only a low hp/rpm engine. All engines are not created equal. I ran mine for 6-8 tanks. I would say top speed was low 40's tops. Great for my 9 year old. His 3.3 revo is just as fast. The engine I have in the car now makes more than twice the power and the car still handles it well.

If you want to spend the money, go ahead, but the first time you bend on of those more expensive alloy parts, it will go in the trash. It is not forgiving at all.

jarredjoffe

thanks!
when i was racing indoors with it at the track i noticed that there was just the right amount of smoke coming from the exhaust when i released the trigger but whenever i give it gas there is black black dark smoke. i did tune it after breaking it in but i tuned it for outdoor weather. should i just tune it so that even when i accelerate there's little smoke? it felt like the car wasn't reaching its fullest potential at all, like all the gas was wasted before it could really gain speed. would that also have to do with the car shifting to soon because even with very little trigger pull immediately the car shifts. i tried looking for the hole that you use to adjust the shifting with but it didn't mach up with the manuals diagram so i was afraid i would turn the wrong one lol
(i don't have a thermometer)

nitrorevo

Sounds like you are on def. on the rich side. Start to lean it out 1/12 of turn. Get a good temp gauge, every basher/racer should have one.

If you flip the car over you will be able to access the two speed adjustment. If you hold the gears still with one hand and spin the front tires, it will rotate where you can see the two holes. The top is the two speed adjustment, and the bottom is to tighten the housing on the shaft. That screw will be deeper and very tght if you try to turn it clockwise.

The other screw for the two speed should turn fairly easily in both directions. If you are not sure, you can test it by turning a quarter turn either way. The best way is to close it down all the way, (gently is has a spring inside)then open it back up 2 turns and go from there. If it still shifts to fast. Continue adjusting with 1/4 turn increments until where you want it.

jarredjoffe

thanks! ill try it out and see how it goes once i get the rest of the problems with my car sorted out lol.

phoenex1

Hello -Just wanted to give you guys the heads up on a site that I visited. I also was able to visit the real store out in Orange, Ca. I purchased some tires and a Can-Am 10th scale 220mm body. I posted the pictures below along with the link to the site. The tire are super wide and I can't wait until the weather cooperates so I can try them out. The front tires are 30mm, the rears are 40mm and they fit all 10th scale touring cars. Check out the stuff at Kamikaze Racing and they have some very nice Kamikaze Racing decals.





http://kamikazetoysandhobbies.com/products.php?cat=9

phoenex1

phoenex1

Last try

bumpnzx3

is there anything good to use for a brake upgrade on these cars? there are metal disks, carbon fiber disks, stock disks, pressed fiber disks, all paired with carbon pads, metal pads, or kevlar pads. any combination work better than stock?

huminski

My Feedback: (23)

Got my SS in the mail. Put the engine thru a few heat cycles and I also spent yesterday painting the body up. Check it out. Needs different wheels the ones on there don't look right with the old camaro body.

phoenex1

Nice paint jobHPI Has some great vintage wheels and tires -Check out my gallery or the pictures above for some amazing tires

madmax93

Thanks for the pic it really helped alot. I just got done with the mod and it came out great.

venom69_420

ok so im puting a big block in my revo and the 3.3 that was in my revo into my evader and the o.s. 18 cv rx thats in my evader i want to put in my rs4 3 every thing is getting a kick in the butwhat mods are required for that? will the clutch bell fit on the o.s.? if there are any other mods that need to be done please let me know thanks

madmax93

I just installed a cv rx in my Rs4 3 and everthing bolted right up except that I had to mod the throttle linkage for the slide carb.

venom69_420

what did u have to do? can u post pics

madmax93

You just need two motor mounts that will fit the car and probably a throttle linkage kit like Ofna sells.

I used the pic above to help set up my linkage. Thanks to nitrorevo.
This linkage is based on a slide carb., if that's what you have. Hope this helps.
As far as the clutch bell goes, you just pull it off the old engine and put it on the new.