djzachtyler

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figured I'd start a rebuild thread for the engine upgrade I am doing on my TC3.

FIrst phase involved swapping out the crankshft in a O.S. .18 CV-RX (S) with the 11J rotary carb the main difference when doing this upgrade is that the engine will no longer be able to use a pull start (preferred for racing anyways) so you will be replacing the original coverplate and spindle with a cover plate.

pictures of the steps are attached in order

steps for doing this are as follows for any beginners that wanna learn how to take apart and rebuild a nitro engine.

DISASSEMBLY

1) remove the pullstart, and oneway bearing

2) remove the coverplate and starting spindle

3) remove the cooling head/heatsink- be careful not to lose the brass gasket!

4) remove the brass piston sleeve. easiest way to do this oon a new engine is by rotating the crankshaft. when the piston gets near the top of the sleeve it will pop the sleeve up enough for you to get a grip on it and gently slide it out. you need to do this in order to slip the con rod off of the crankshaft.

5) disconnect the con rod from the crankshaft again rotate the crankshaft so the piston is at the top of the block then gently so you don't scratch anything using some nedls nose pliers slip the con rod off the crankshaft nub while twisting it. You also want to be extremelt delicate during this phase so you do not scratch the block interior, or the side of the piston!

6) remove the piston and using your thumb gently press the original crankshaft out of the block

REASSEMBLY

1) press the new crankshft into place in the engine block and rotate it so the nub for the con rod is in the upper position

2) place the piston back into the crank case with the notched out side facing the carb. I personally do this with the con rod facing sideways, then start to rotate the crankshaft back into the hole on the con rod while gently turning the piston, this allow the con rod to slip itself back onto the crankshaft without using tools and risking any scratching.

3) replace the brass sleeve by rotating the crankshaft so the piston is at bottom, and start to sloide the sleeve back into place also make sure the notch in the sleeve's lip is aligned with the pin on the crank case. wheh the sleeve is about half way in I stick my pinky finger down inside to line up the piston with the sleeve and then gently press the sleeve all the way back into the crank case.

4) install the new blank cover plate with the flat spot facing the top of the crank case. This is important to make sure you do this. the flattened side is to allow the piston clearance in order to cycle fully. if you put it in any other way the piston will jam against it. also before installing the cover plate use a little bit of blue locktite by dripping a small amount on each hole in the crank case being careful not to get any inside, then using a pin, paper clip or small allen, you can poke the loctite into the holes. after doing this use a rag and wipe any excess off the crank case. insert the cover plate and screw it down good and tight, but at the same time not torqing the hell out of the screws so you don't strip the threads out!

5) re install the cooling head/heatsink amking sure you remember to replace the brass gasket. Again I use a small amount of blue loctite here in the same method as I explained above. here you want to be extra cautious not to get loctite everywher. a good way to do this is to put the loctite on the pin or paper clip then insert it into the threaded holes to distribute the loctite. make sure you thoroughly wipe away any excess you DO NOT want this stuff getting inside of the engine! after this palce the brass gasket on the cooling head/heatsink, and gently place it back onto the engine. it doesn't matter which direction the lettering on to goes, but for me I like it to be facing the rear of the engine so if I am looking down at the car from the front it is readable. next carfullt drop the screws into the holes (be sure they don't fall into the glow plug hole and get stuck inside) and tighten them down in an X pattern evenly. again make sure you get them good and tight without over torqing them and stripping out the threads!

6) assemble the air filter, slip the orings onto the silicone coupler , put the air filter into the short side and the slip the other end over the carb inlet.

Finished!!!

I will start the factory engine removal and OS engine installation tomorrow if I have time and also include more pics as I go through the entire process, may have to wait until next weekend to get everything posted with pics, so stay tuned to this thread for more to come soon!!!

djzachtyler

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pics will be posted soon, for some reason I can't get them to upload[:@]

djzachtyler

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ok, was too many files at once so I have to break this down, what a hassle[:'(]

Anyways these are the pics of the tear down phase

djzachtyler

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and here are the pics of the rebuild phase

djzachtyler

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now introducing my TC3 [>:]

the engine pictured is the stock AE .15 which is what I will be replacing with the engine I just did the rebuild on [8D]

Please check back in a few days as it will take me a bit to do the whole disassembly and rebuild while photographing it all.

djzachtyler

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the engine swap is done, and break in has been started, I will post pics and procedures later today of the whole engine swap out process.