K4.6 factory settings (flush = what?)
02-23-2010, 05:27 PM
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K4.6 factory settings (flush = what?)
Im trying to get back to factory setting to get the r/c running to make sure my gear mesh & installation was perfect , before selling my truck
but i can't get the darng thing to factory setting or even running (besides idle)
on idle it tends to starts reving passed a certain temperature....
i tried to put all the needles to 'flush but it's quite awkward cause im not sure 100% they are but they seem like it...
.
is there a good way to reset it to factory?
also , my break doesn,t work how can i fix that?
i totally forgot .
once again thanks so much for your response you guys always have the right awnser!
but i can't get the darng thing to factory setting or even running (besides idle)
on idle it tends to starts reving passed a certain temperature....
i tried to put all the needles to 'flush but it's quite awkward cause im not sure 100% they are but they seem like it...
.
is there a good way to reset it to factory?
also , my break doesn,t work how can i fix that?
i totally forgot .
once again thanks so much for your response you guys always have the right awnser!
02-24-2010, 01:21 AM
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Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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RE: K4.6 factory settings (flush = what?)
Well here are some tips for tuning (you didn't explain what was wrong, what was happening)
Get the engine started
Once you do that, do the pinch test by piching the fuel line 3cm or 1 inch from the carb. The engine should keep running for about 5-6 seconds and should raise it's RPM a little bit if the settings are correct.
RPMs go up ALOT: too rich and the throttle may also be too far open to compensate for the richness.
Engine stalls immediately/No RPM raise: Too lean, back it out 1/4 turn.
Once all that is good then see if it will accelerate.
Alot of smoke, poor acceleration may even bog out: High speed needle is way too rich, turn it in/lean it out 1/2 3/4 turn.
Engine accelerates but cuts out once full throttle is applied: Too lean, richen it up 1/2 a turn or more depending on how early it cut out. If it cuts out at the top end of its RPM then back it out 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn.
If it dies after you take out the glow heater, maybe you need a new plug, it happens after a while. You may possibly even have a plug that's too hot for the engine (Learn't that recently, actually)
As for the brakes, how is it not working? Does it try to stop the truck but it isn't enough?
If it does try to stop (you can see it trying to work) but the pads are just not clenching, then either the adjuster on the line connected from your throttle servo to your brake arm is too far away to get it turning. That or the screws holding the pads may be too far out. This would be the case if the arm to the brakes is not activating when the arm is off parallel to the disk and pads (if that makes sense)
Hope this M A S S I V E explanation helps with your problems.
Get the engine started
Once you do that, do the pinch test by piching the fuel line 3cm or 1 inch from the carb. The engine should keep running for about 5-6 seconds and should raise it's RPM a little bit if the settings are correct.
RPMs go up ALOT: too rich and the throttle may also be too far open to compensate for the richness.
Engine stalls immediately/No RPM raise: Too lean, back it out 1/4 turn.
Once all that is good then see if it will accelerate.
Alot of smoke, poor acceleration may even bog out: High speed needle is way too rich, turn it in/lean it out 1/2 3/4 turn.
Engine accelerates but cuts out once full throttle is applied: Too lean, richen it up 1/2 a turn or more depending on how early it cut out. If it cuts out at the top end of its RPM then back it out 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn.
If it dies after you take out the glow heater, maybe you need a new plug, it happens after a while. You may possibly even have a plug that's too hot for the engine (Learn't that recently, actually)
As for the brakes, how is it not working? Does it try to stop the truck but it isn't enough?
If it does try to stop (you can see it trying to work) but the pads are just not clenching, then either the adjuster on the line connected from your throttle servo to your brake arm is too far away to get it turning. That or the screws holding the pads may be too far out. This would be the case if the arm to the brakes is not activating when the arm is off parallel to the disk and pads (if that makes sense)
Hope this M A S S I V E explanation helps with your problems.
