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  1. #151

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    For a power supply I'm using an A-123 6.6v Battery connected to the aux port via leads soldered to the bottom of the board. I still can't get the motor to switch directions. I don't know how to "force a high signal on pin 2" - so I haven't tried that option - My lack of electronics knowledge showing. Also I noticed that for the dual motor drive board I have a MC33887 board Item #712 from Pololu. I see some simularities but I don't suppose it will work. It's the one TOMAPOWA is using So I am ordering the board you are showing.
    I have other retracts I want to modify so I'll take 4 of those boards. Let me know when ready.

    Thanks

  2. #152

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    My programmer looked at the 712 board you are using and there are differences in the way your board works and the way the code was written for the boards we are using. On ours there is an invert pin that gets enabled to reverse the direction. There are other subtle features that offer advantages as well ease of programming. Once you hook up the new board it should start working for you. We can post the first test program that is simply a 5 second cycle of the gear going up and down if you want to test with that.

    Regarding the custom circuit boards, my programmer plans to get one and mod the board set we made to make sure everything works before making a production run. If all goes well, the company we're making them through (China) will have them available through their website, but I may order a number of them just to have some on hand and available.

  3. #153

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts


    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    My programmer looked at the 712 board you are using and there are differences in the way your board works and the way the code was written for the boards we are using. On ours there is an invert pin that gets enabled to reverse the direction. There are other subtle features that offer advantages as well ease of programming. Once you hook up the new board it should start working for you. We can post the first test program that is simply a 5 second cycle of the gear going up and down if you want to test with that.
    Actually I'm not using the 712 board. I only have the single motor drive (motor1), the RCS and the main board hooked up. I am testing just one motor. Do I need the other dual motor drive board hooked up to make it work properly?


  4. #154

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Quick question - Which connection dose the signal wire from the receiver go to?

  5. #155

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Actually I'm not using the 712 board. I only have the single motor drive (motor1), the RCS and the main board hooked up. I am testing just one motor. Do I need the other dual motor drive board hooked up to make it work properly?
    No. The program will run with just the one board, it ignores the fact that the other board is missing. The code as written does trigger the invert pin which switches the current through the H bridge. If the invert pin is not connected, maybe that's why you're not getting the reverse direction. If you have the board number from polulu we can take a look at it and see what needs to be done.

  6. #156

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Quick question - Which connection dose the signal wire from the receiver go to?
    Ground, power and signal from the receiver go into the RC board on the side with three holes....the other side has four connections. On the other side, (four holes) ground is tied into the same ground as the main board, the same for power. The 'Good' and 'Out' pins on the RC board go to pins 2 and 4 respectively on the blue board.

  7. #157

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts


    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    Quick question - Which connection dose the signal wire from the receiver go to?
    Ground, power and signal from the receiver go into the RC board on the side with three holes....the other side has four connections. On the other side, (four holes) ground is tied into the same ground as the main board, the same for power. The 'Good' and 'Out' pins on the RC board go to pins 2 and 4 respectively on the blue board.
    The board I have is the one you show - MC33926 Item #1212 and it is hooked up as you describe. http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1212
    When the board is powered up the motor runs continually one way until physically stopped. Then moving the gear switch on the transmitter will start it again but it still only turns the same way. I have checked my connections many times but will try again. I suppose it’s possible I have a bad board.

  8. #158

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Let me get with my electronics guru and have him look at it....can you post a pic of what you've connected? You're board is probably fine.

  9. #159

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Ok - Here are the pictures. It will be difficult to tell because I don't have the wires the same color as yours on your diagram but the conecctions are the same. I have checked that a number of times. I have the #1213 board on the way. I can hook it up separate and see if it works. I realy appreciate all your help.

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  10. #160

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    I might add that the red light on the RC Switch board flashes with the gear switch in one position and is steady on with the gear switch in the opposite posotion. With the light in the steady position there is a 3 sec delay befor the motor runs. The problem is the motor turns the same direction regardless of switch position.

  11. #161

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Ok, thanks for the pix, Booker. I have to run to work, but we will inspect the wiring for any problems. I'm going to post a test loop program for you to try. This should get you up and running. The program we first posted may have a glitch in it...hence no reverse on the motor. Sorry about that...

    We are still having issues (auto retract after signal loss) that we are trying to address in version 14. The regular retract function works fine. I'll do a new post when that one is ready. In the meantime,



    Try this:






    int GEN = 13; // Gear enable
    int GA1 = 12; // INV
    int GA2 = 11; //Gear A in 2 PWM
    int GAO = 0; //Gear A overcurrent monitor
    int Current = 0; //Value of current
    int DIR = 0; //direction input port
    int UD = 0; //0=down 1=up
    int OldUD = 0;


    // The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts

    void setup() {
    // initialize the digital pin as an output:
    pinMode(GEN, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GA1, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GA2, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GAO, INPUT);
    pinMode(DIR, INPUT);

    }

    // the loop() method runs over and over again,
    // as long as the Arduino has power

    void loop()
    {

    UD = digitalRead(DIR); //read direction
    Current = analogRead(GAO); //Read current value on fedback pin
    digitalWrite(GEN, LOW); // Disable motor board

    do
    {
    digitalWrite(GEN, HIGH); // Enable motor board
    digitalWrite(GA1, LOW); // Pin does not support PWM
    analogWrite(GA2, 255); // Set motor speed
    delay (500); // Startup delay
    Current = analogRead(GAO);//Read in analog current limit
    }
    while (Current<75);


    do
    {
    digitalWrite(GEN, HIGH); // Enable motor board
    digitalWrite(GA1, HIGH); // Pin does not support PWM
    analogWrite(GA2, 255); // Set motor speed
    delay (500); // Startup delay
    Current = analogRead(GAO);//Read in analog current limit
    }
    while (Current<75);

    OldUD=UD;
    }

  12. #162

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Booker:

    Here's the word from my electronics guru:

    The pictures are unfortunately a little confusing because of shadows, but I have a theory that there may be a slight miswiring that is causing the lack of direction change. Originally Pin 12 on the Arduino went to the IN2 pin on the motor controller and a jumper installed in the INV pin of the motor controller. This made the program a bit more complicated so I changed this in posted schematic. Pin 12 of the Arduino board should go to the INV pin on the motor controller board and no jumper should be installed here. The IN2 pin on the motor controller should go to ground. This should work with the test program posted to allow the gear to continuously cycle up and down. In the case of just a bare motor, once you stop it the direction should immediately reverse. If this works it will rule out any wiring problem on your end.

  13. #163

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts


    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    Booker:

    Here's the word from my electronics guru:

    The pictures are unfortunately a little confusing because of shadows, but I have a theory that there may be a slight miswiring that is causing the lack of direction change. Originally Pin 12 on the Arduino went to the IN2 pin on the motor controller and a jumper installed in the INV pin of the motor controller. This made the program a bit more complicated so I changed this in posted schematic. Pin 12 of the Arduino board should go to the INV pin on the motor controller board and no jumper should be installed here. The IN2 pin on the motor controller should go to ground. This should work with the test program posted to allow the gear to continuously cycle up and down. In the case of just a bare motor, once you stop it the direction should immediately reverse. If this works it will rule out any wiring problem on your end.
    I originally had the boards set up the way you describe and show in one of the pictures you posted. . But when you produced the schematic showing the new wiring setup I caught the difference and put in the change. I also eliminated the jumper on the inv pin.
    I loaded the looping program and tested it. The motor started running but I could not stop it.
    I will pull all the wires and start over. I apologise for being such a pain.

    Galen




  14. #164

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    No problem, Galen....I just hope we can get you setup and running....you're the first that are following what we're doing, so we need to know if others can replicate it too.

    Try in the program try setting the threshold current lower. It's currently set at 75. If it's not reversing, the current limit is probably set too high. When it stops, it should stop and reverse, stop and reverse. When it's in a gear it really obvious when it stops and switches direction. So lower it to try stopping it by hand.

  15. #165

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts


    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    No problem, Galen....I just hope we can get you setup and running....you're the first that are following what we're doing, so we need to know if others can replicate it too.

    Try in the program try setting the threshold current lower. It's currently set at 75. If it's not reversing, the current limit is probably set too high. When it stops, it should stop and reverse, stop and reverse. When it's in a gear it really obvious when it stops and switches direction. So lower it to try stopping it by hand.
    One more time I carefully set the pins in the boards and the same results - The motor only turns one way when starting and stoping.
    I tried again the loop program and set the treshold current at 55 tried it and could not stop the motor then tried 25 and still could not stop the motor. I leads me back to the theory that one of the boards are faulty. I should have the 1213 board early next week and will try it. After rewiring I took some more pictures and they are a little better. Perhaps it will help.

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  16. #166

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Try This Galen: This will run your motor in loop mode only. There is no current sensing in this...this will allow you to just see if the motor is going back and forth.



    int GEN = 13; // Gear enable
    int GA1 = 12; // INV
    int GA2 = 11; //Gear A in 2 PWM
    int GAO = 0; //Gear A overcurrent monitor
    int Current = 0; //Value of current
    int DIR = 0; //direction input port
    int UD = 0; //0=down 1=up
    int OldUD = 0;


    // The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts

    void setup() {
    // initialize the digital pin as an output:
    pinMode(GEN, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GA1, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GA2, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GAO, INPUT);
    pinMode(DIR, INPUT);

    }

    // the loop() method runs over and over again,
    // as long as the Arduino has power

    void loop()
    {
    digitalWrite(GEN, LOW); // Disable motor board

    digitalWrite(GEN, HIGH); // Enable motor board
    digitalWrite(GA1, LOW); // Pin does not support PWM
    analogWrite(GA2, 255); // Set motor speed
    delay (5000); // wait 5 seconds

    digitalWrite(GEN, HIGH); // Enable motor board
    digitalWrite(GA1, HIGH); // Pin does not support PWM
    analogWrite(GA2, 255); // Set motor speed
    delay (5000); // wait 5 seconds
    }

  17. #167

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    No - No luck , just runs constantly in one direction.

    Kinda late back there in ILL?

  18. #168

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Yeah, callin it a night...

    We're getting the custom board in about 10 days and will set up a second retract system and test it with the code posted. If it works, may cure the wiring issue? Not quite sure why your motor will not reverse, will have to think on it some more.

  19. #169
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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    ORIGINAL: TOMAPOWA Hey Folks... go at it! I certainly don't mind you guys using this thread to discuss other DIY options... I just can not discuss the specific design on my final actuators... or code specifics... other than what I have already disseminated here in this thread. O well...

    Tom,

    Where's the baby? I know I saw it around here earlier... Wash water seems to have cast it aside...

    Not boohooing the tech traks...just reminding everyone it would probably be best to exchange DEEP technical details back channel
    instead of driving the potential marketplace away with details they do not and don't need to understand. A little bed sice manner will
    keep thread high on reader's (potential customer) visitors.

    For example:



    I myself am amidst two Flite-Metal poster childred. That's a pair of 1/10.2 Boeing B-47E-IV's. I need meatier than and simpler
    than what's available electric gear for outriggers...and mains. The retract frame itself is the simple part for both.



    At this point for outriggers I have gone the only route available with X-Flight's integrated gear.



    I am not exceptionally excited about their less than robust capacity at just over a 5#. However, they are available and a far cry from
    having to baby sit and suffer from continued issues with air. The outriggers are there for tilt relief.



    As for mains, I'm using modified Robart 160's on air...with the HOTS for an electric conversion. 160's require very little conversion to
    provide the proper strength and function.

    Ed Clayman,
    FliteMetal.com

  20. #170

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Booker....here's a schematic for you to try....try your board with the loop program we posted:
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  21. #171

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts


    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    Booker....here's a schematic for you to try....try your board with the loop program we posted:
    Boeing314 - still no go. Motor runs but only one way and cannot stop it. I can change direction by switching the out lins to the motor but that's all.

    To load the program I copy and paste the program from the RCU post to the editor. I connect the usb cable and the computer recogonizes the board. I Then click the upload arrow. It says:
    "Done uploading" then give the sketch size. I disconnect the usb then connect to the battery power. At this point the motor starts to run. Is this correct? Is there more steps I should do?

  22. #172
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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Tom,

    Sorry to see your thread highjacked. These guys want to jump in the middle of your thread and sit down
    on it (shut it down) instead of exchanging their techno dribble back channel where it belongs. Its as if
    they think this site is a programmer's resource center...[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

    When you work out control of your ECU please email me at test@buyero.com or wmclayman@comcast.net
    to permit me to understand how your ECU is programmed for end points, stall voltage, speed, multiple
    start-stop controls (gear doors), etc.

    If you want to share your telephone # so I can call...send it to test@buyaero.com

    Thanks,
    Ed Clayman,
    FliteMetal.com

  23. #173

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    Ed, I dont understand your problem or why you are trying to shut this down. The "techno drible" is exactly what this thread has been about from the very beginning.

    And, yes, this entire site is all about sharing information, "techno drible" as you call it.

    On top of that, Tom has given his blessing.

    Whats your beef?
    Larry

  24. #174

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    ORIGINAL: FliteMetal

    Tom,

    Sorry to see your thread highjacked. These guys want to jump in the middle of your thread and sit down
    on it (shut it down) instead of exchanging their techno dribble back channel where it belongs. Its as if
    they think this site is a programmer's resource center
    Boeing314
    As long as there are no objections from Tomapowa...this was his thread after all. But I'm willing to share what boards you need and the programming code to put into it....it might be just a matter of copy paste from a word document. If not, some minor typing into the programming on your part.

    booker-RCU
    I have no desire to infringe on Tomapowa's thread either so PM me and we can exchange email. Anything you can do to help I'd really appreciate it.


    TOMAPOWA
    Hey Folks... go at it! I certainly don't mind you guys using this thread to discuss other DIY options... I just can not discuss the specific design on my final actuators... or code specifics... other than what I have already disseminated here in this thread.


    MR FliteMetal based on the above - May we continue? Actually, didn't know you were in charge of this thread.



  25. #175

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    RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts

    ORIGINAL: Boeing314

    Booker....here's a schematic for you to try....try your board with the loop program we posted:
    Using the wireing setup you show I loaded the blink program from the file menu and it turns the motor on and off. Don't know what that means but it would seem to be progress. Here is the program: File-examples- digital- Blink


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