nitrosportsandrunner

just got a cc01 pajero and will be doing many mods to it.
I do not want to "lock" the front diff. But I do want a limited-slip action. I figure that diff oil should do the trick.
I just put in 50,000 weight diff oil. I haven't driven it yet, but it doesn't feel like it made much of a difference. It doesn't take much force to turn 1 wheel while holding the other.

have any of u used diff oil in the front? If so, what weight did you use?

Thus far, Ive only done a 1/4'' front body lift, 1/4'' rear suspension lift to accomidate losi 1.9 MRC pro wheels and tires. I have a duratrax sprint esc in it right now and that's gonna go soon. VERY little control on the bottom end. I need a smooth, crawler esc.
I have a axial 27t motor in it now....but a new 100 turn motor waiting to go in. That's a very high turn motor....but I plan to buy a outcry ESC that will handle 3s lipo....so I can have smooth torque low end with decent top speed (hopefully the same it has now with the 27t on 2s)

The biggest mod yet to be done is front steering. Man does it suck! Ive seen how others have done it...but I hope to do it without removing a lot of the front chassis.

here's a video of it before front body lift and the diff oil added:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8r_4RSzYmA

phmaximus

hey with the front diff what type of feel are u after???? there is the ball diff option?

ur not really going to get a limited slip action diff. all its going to do is slow the action.

If u were to use some oil that was thick enough to make it "feel" like a LSD... (lots of diff resistance when turning one wheel while holding the other)
say u are turning the wheel by hand at 1 rotation per 5sec, and it feels nice and tight.... its essentially going to be a locker at high speeds and a locker at low speeds that can slip.


the best would a a oneway diff..... but then u loose 4 wheel brakes and 4 wheel drive in reverse... so thats no good lol

nitrosportsandrunner

I put 500,000 weight diff oil in it today. did not completely fill it with oil, as there was still some 50,000 left over. It feels much better. I can turn 1 front wheel by hand and the rear tires will turn instead of the other front wheel spinning the opposite.
drove it some offroad and I could tell that not all the power would go to 1 front wheel if it came off the ground....the other wheel would still get some power and try to turn.
That's kinda what I meant by limited slip. If 1 wheel comes off the ground (or had little to no traction) then power some power still goes to the other wheel...instead of the diff unloading and all the power going to the wheel with no traction. But at the same time you can still turn the front tires in opposite direction...or hold one and turn the other....so its not locked. This does not seem the limit steering much (if at all) but did increase traction offroad, especially when going up a hill.

phmaximus

cool man, be sure to get some videos they are cool trucks....


hey... have u seen some guys mode there cc01 to fit the HPI GRU.... they are so cool, ive got one in a TL01b monster truck and sware by it.

nitrosportsandrunner

the gru looks cool and all....but a 100t motor does the same thing. I have a 100t and on a 2s lipo the top speed was 5mph at most. most guys run a 35 or 55 turn in the cc01, which slows them down a lot. The 100t brings the speed way down and the torque way up.

phmaximus

oh wow... whats the RPM on one of those?

nitrosportsandrunner

not sure....but rc4wd has a 80t that specs out at 5,500 rpms with a 7.2v and No load.
Compared to a standard 27t which turns something like 25,000rpms.
So the 100t may turn 3,000-4,000 rpms with 7.2v. So the top speed is basically around 1/5th of what you would get from the stock 27t motor. And with that low speed, a lot of torque.
And these 100t motors can handle 3s power (if properly cooled) They are stock on the redcat 1/8 scale MOA crawler...a lot bigger than the cc01. For now I will stick with the 27t as I like some decent wheel speed. But later...when I can afford a rc4wd Outcry ESC, which can handle 3s and has turbo BEC, I will run the 100t motor. On 3s I will have great low speed torque, but also enough wheel speed for loose surface, wet rocks, mud and snow.

phmaximus

That's so cool,

Im currently running a 17t pinion, HPI GRU and a 2400kv motor. In a TL01 monster truck. It's nice and slow but the GRU is no noisy and its got a dead spot....for some strange reason the throttle seems to start at 5%. It can't take off smoothly as such.

im thinking one of these 100t motors will be heaps better

nitrosportsandrunner

I spoke to the guy at the hobby shop, who has built many rock crawlers and mentioned the 100t motor verses the GRU. The RPMs and torque will be about the same....but the GRU also acts like a built in drag brake. Very useful if your ESC does not have drag brake. His wraith has a GRU mated to a traxxas VXL system. This gives him waterproof brushless power....but with a drag brake function as well.
If drag brake isn't important, then the 100t motor is the way to go. But if you like a drag brake, then the GRU is a good idea to keep.

phmaximus

Ahh yep, i wondered if they would be comparable, thats so handy to know... cheerz
I've currently got with the ezrun 35a v2 ESC and find the drag brake very usefull, I think it would kinda suck with out it because I use it a lot for descending.
dare say if I can get a 100t motor ill sell the brushless combo for a Axial AE2 ESC with drag brakes

nitrosportsandrunner

drove the cc01 today on some rough stuff.
I had the 100t motor in it and it was a touch too slow. nice and smooth throttle, but not quiet enough wheel speed. I might have to gear up to the 20t pinion.

side note, tuning the diff doesn't seem to work. while 500k weight oil works at first, it seems to slowly leak out. Its only a tad better than plain open diff. If I want it to crawl good, I will have to lock it.

nitro stan

you can lock it with the gears that are already in the diff.
pull one of the spider gears off the "cross" and work it in between the other 2 spider gears, its a pain to hold it all together and drop it in the diff but it will lock it up and you can revert back to open without buying a diff if you want to

nitrosportsandrunner

thanx stan. I actually did find that way of locking the diff on another forum. It is way better IMO than using jb weld or some other method which is not reversible. And it is actually faster to do.
If the diff case could be sealed....and 500k or higher was used then it would work. But it just slowly leaks out.
Ive since sold the pajero. Got a sweet stampede vxl in trade for it.

phmaximus

I found that locking method of removing a spider gear and placing it in between the other 2 doesn't take much torque before it fails.
but then again I've only tried it once. In the same vehicle I've killed a 2x stock glued diffs(internal failure, striped out axle splines) manta ray diff(striped axle splines) and a front one way(one way bearing failure after 10min)....

The strongest method of locking these diffs to use a Tt01 spool and hardened TT01 diff cups. I find the key way joint is stronger than the splines...

Hope this helps someone one day

ax10crawler

aside from locking the diff i was gonna comment on the 100t motor and gearing it up. i just picked up a 65t integy motor fro my scx build. i geared it at 21p 87 spur. it got hot when low speed crawling then i tried 19t pinion same spur. still ran a little warm i dropped it down to 1t and now it seems fine for super slow conitinues low speed with tons of torque and some decent top end but im running 3s. so be carfull of overgearing your motor. i know that cc-01's have a taller spur gear and a friend of mine runs a 55t on 3s and loves it.