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  1. #1
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Down at the Fox and Bull...a 2.2 pro class comp crawler build. Pics...

    Well, after a long RC career without ever going slowly, I finally started getting into crawlers about this time last year. I bought a Bully ARTR and while it was a great learning experience, I really wanted something that I'd built myself. To that end I bought some more bullies, this time the lightweight axles and ordered a Chaotic Switch Smash chassis and some VP wheels etc. After a while I realised I was facing an uphill struggle with the bully v1s, and decided to wait for the v2s which have just been released, Amazing new axles.


    This is the parts list so far...


    RC4WD Bully V2 2.2 Comp Axle Front
    RC4WD Bully V2 2.2 Comp Axle Rear
    Steering link for BV2s
    VP SLW V4 1" Wheels (2) x2
    VP 2.2 Beadlock Rings (2 inner, 2 outer) x2
    VP SLW .600 Hubs (2) (rear)
    VP SLW .725 hubs (2) (front)
    Hot Bodies Rover white dot (2) x2
    Chaotic Switch Smash Carbon Fiber Chassis
    Chaotic Titanium High Clearance Links
    Chaotic Ti Sliders
    Revo ball ends x lots
    Traxxas Big Bore Shocks (4)
    Tekin FXR ESC x2
    Tekin Hotwire PC interface
    Castle 10A BEC (already got Castle link)
    Nordic Crawler Designs Bully V2 Battery Mount
    Nordic Crawler Designs Bully V2 High Clearance Lightweight Servo Mount
    Nordic Crawler Designs Bully V2 Axle Mounted Electronics Tray
    Protek 170T Chad Bradley 630oz-in servo
    Various batteries to try on the NCD mount from 500 to 1050mAh, all 3S
    Futaba 4PLS radio (finally, an excuse to upgrade from the 3PK which has been fulfilling all my RC needs for over 10 years! No ESC mixing!!)
    R204GF FHSS micro receiver (no antenna!!)
    Turbofest Bully 2 CF Hub weight carrier
    VP 3/8 weights (2)
    VP 1/8 weights (2)
    Holmes Hobbies Torquemaster Expert 35T x 2


    The axles finally arrived yesterday and due to teh age of this project, most of the rest of the stuff was waiting. So, here's the progress so far. Kudos to Cabron on rccrawler.com for the mod to the traxxas shocks, on the rear they work really well, the front not so much due to space restrictions.


    I know its riding way too high, I'm going to get mini-T springs soon. I also need to vent the tires/wheels.


    Well, here's a load of pics of progress up to now anyway. Enjoy...




































































    More info and pics to come in the coming weeks.
    Last edited by Foxy; 12-14-2013 at 12:32 PM.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
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  2. #2
    cumminspower5.9's Avatar
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    Damn that thing is looking nice. Great job Foxy!
    -Aerodynamics and turbos are for people who can't build motors.

    Ofna LX2e-4s
    Axial SCX10 Jeep
    T-Maxx 2.5

  3. #3
    FahrtAutoRC's Avatar
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    Awesome, Foxy!
    Tekno Losi 8ight II Slash 4X4 II HPI Blitz II Associated B4.1 II Losi Mini-T II Custom frame AX10 II Axial G6

  4. #4
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    One hell of a crawler!
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  5. #5
    Lunchboxer's Avatar
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    The axle housings: Are they powder coated aluminum or they are plastic? (Nothing wrong w/ plastic, just curious)

    Looks like a great project! Keep us posted!
    LB | WW2 | TLT | TB02 | DF03 | TEgg | F103GT | TXT | Hornet | Frog | Scalpel | Leo 2A6 | Aeromax | WW1 | Clod | CR-01

  6. #6
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    Looks aluminum to me.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  7. #7
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Yep, all titanium, aluminum, steel and carbon fiber, even the wheels, the only plastic here is the rod ends and the skid.

    Thanks guys.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  8. #8
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    Those are some of the sweetest rims, I've ever seen.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  9. #9
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Thanks Vanquish Products SLW (Super Light Weight) v4. They're actually quite reasonable now that they are no longer current generation (v5 is now available, though I don't know if they're lighter or not, possibly), like you, I loved the style, they are the best crawler rims I've seen and I'm really proud to wear 'em. You can get 'em at amainhobbies, or direct from vanquish, or ckrc I think.

    More pics coming soon, the geometry is getting there slowly.

    As you lower a crawler, you lose articulation, link clearance and a variety of other beneficial geometric properties, but its a trade off, you want to be as low as possible to have as low a CG as possible, but you still want enough clearance to articulate and to clear the edges etc, so it takes a lot of patient test fitting to get the balance right. I'd say I'm almost there on the front now, but that's easy, as everything has to be on the inner side of the link mounts for steering clearance, there is less room for tuning, and of course, for getting it wrong. I just need to decide how much I'm going to limit the front shocks, do it, test it, be happy with it, then start on the rear. Might have the height and geometry set by the weekend.

    More batteries for this mount arrived today, a pair of Turnigy 3S 800mAh 40-50C (perfect rating) which had the right dimensions almost for the tray. Test fitted just now and it's perfect. I'll use a 90C 400mAh or 500mAh for comping, but for general use, this battery will be awesome. Pics of that in the next bunch soon.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  10. #10
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    What are you going to use for electronics?
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  11. #11
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    All in the first post, but basically, two Tekin FXR ESCs, two Holmes Torquemaster Expert 35T brushed motors, a Protek 170T 630oz-in servo, a micro antennaless rx R204GF, a Castle 10A BEC set to 7.4v, and a 800mAh 40C Turnigy 3S lipo.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  12. #12
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    Sorry, missed that...
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  13. #13
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    OK, here's progress over Christmas...


    Starting with some more shots of the axles as I was taking them apart, inspecting and greasing them...

















    And now motor and servo installation. For the motor I used the stock pinions. The carbon fiber motor mount pictured is the Nordic Crawler Designs item. More about this in a minute... At this point it really strikes you how well these axles are put together, like a perfectly fitting jigsaw. I admire the brain that came up with this modular design of the covers.





    Nice servo, at 7.4v it makes 630oz-in. :O














    At this point, I would have proceeded with some shots of the electrics installation, unfortunately, due to heavy use over Christmas, by camera got mauled by various unskilled users both small and large (I'm looking at you wifey) and those shots seem to have been lost. So here's a token shot of the less visible shock mods, a 10mm fuel tubing spacer internally on the shaft, and a long rod end to help clear the servo and battery mounts.





    Now what follows is basically the finished shots. In as much as anything is ever finished. It still needs foams and tire venting, as well as knuckle weights (waiting for Sniper and Turbos adapter) and lastly, mini T springs and cups. I'm going to try it out in the next few days, but so far I'm really, REALLY pleased. I have full clearance, full steering (ok, I'm rubbing the battery more than I'd like, but that's because its a big battery). The roof paint came out really wrong, in fact, its nothing like I envisioned it, however, I actually really like it, kind of a tribute to my home country and a show of supprt for the upcoming soccer world cup. Must thank Holmes and Chaotic for the epic logos, can never go wrong adorning an off road machine with gear and skull motifs. lol.








    Despite the significant lowering from last time, it has retained a lot of articulation.








    Front axle shots








    Rear axle (sorry about the flying motor wires, they'll be reigned in in due course.





    Receiver, sitting on an inverted and slightly bent Blue Monkey RC Bully electronics plate. Very handy, though I will be cutting a slither of metal off the side as it limits articulation ever so slightly more on one side than the other...I really like this solution for the RX so far...





    A vanity shot





    And the obligatory profile clearance shot...





    As I put this rig together, I began to realise how everything is a compromise, and the need to drive the rig and match it to your style to make sure your compromises are giving you what you need and taking away something you don't.


    Anyway, it is now fully RTR pending the aforementioned final items.


    Will be updating this as I tweak over the coming weeks.
    Last edited by Foxy; 12-31-2013 at 07:24 AM.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  14. #14
    KID_EVIL!'s Avatar
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    Pretty crazy truck man! The steering angle is insane.
    I\'\'m not really a kid.... I just act like one
    VROOM VROOM!!!!!

  15. #15
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Thanks man, no such thing as too much steering! Hoping I'll be able to dremel a little more out of them without compromising durability, may even have to get the next size hubs to use all the steering. ITs at about 50 degrees right now, 55 would be nice, 60 would be icing.

    Next weekend, I'll be changing the shocks, fitting the wheel weights and some better tire foams. Current shocks are just a tad to long even with the limiting. Would also like to extend upper front links a touch, so will swap Revo rod ends for Jato rod ends on those (about 10mm longer overall). I've also got an even smaller battery on the way.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  16. #16
    phmaximus's Avatar
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    Damm, that's heaps of steering and it's got DIG too yeah?

    Just thinking... As far as I know... Just doubble check.. I'm 99% sure the jato uses the same ends as on the Slash for its suspension. And RPM make a direct replacement that's stronger, possibly cheaper and come in black, white or blue
    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...xas/Slash5.htm
    only problem is u can only buy the hollow balls in a set of 4...... But... U can get screw in balls that are Teflon coated.
    its the same part number as the hollow balls but with a X on the end 5529x
    they will even work on the shock ends for more articulation.
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  17. #17
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Technically it doesn't have a dig, but I am able to lock either axle at will, like a dig unit. My motors are completely independently controlled by two escs, so I can adjust the speed of each axle completely freely in any combination. In reality, I use only front and rear dig, and have a switch set to adjust the amount of wheel speed at the rear, so when I'm climbing vertically, I drop the rear axle speed down 2 clicks to stop the rear tires flipping me over backwards.

    Tested climb rate earlier today. 84* on carpet, and that's without the front weight. Will post some video soon, just waiting to have it officially finished.

    Thanks for the tips on the rod ends, fortunately, they don't see that much abuse on a crawler. The reason I want the jato ends is because they are long. If the slash ones are also long, I'll probably do the RPM ones if I ever break a traxxas one.
    Last edited by Foxy; 01-14-2014 at 01:42 PM.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
    RCU Community Moderator

  18. #18
    phmaximus's Avatar
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    Cool man... Can wait to see some videos.

    Dont forget to check out the 5529x balls.... I've got some on order I'll let u know if the Teflon actially makes it smoother...

    Ur right, the RPM long ball ends are problary a bit overkill but they are cheap. Maybe even stainless steel hollow balls are a bit overkill....hummmm

    Hey just a thought if u want to save some more weight... Hot racing are now making alloy hollow balls as an upgrade to Axial's plastic balls and they are in a few different colours.
    bothe styles Axial's plastic or HR's alloy hollow balls will make a measurable difference...maby not noticeable tho
    with 16 on the suspension, 4 on the steering and 4 on the shocks u might end up saving a quite a few grams.

    It really doesn't matter what balls u have (*cough) it's just some information I've found while planing something on a rig I'm building.
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  19. #19

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    Like checkin out the bullys every now & then. 2 things, ya plan on limiting those shocks some? And, put some proper foams in those rovers! Hahaha
    He is I, & I am him


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