Axial SCX10 Lift Kit
#1
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Axial SCX10 Lift Kit
I bought the lift kit for the Axial SCX10 off Amazon and got it all installed. It seems that with a higher center of gravity, the front tires seem to want to fold under the rim when turning on a hard surface. How do I fix this? I already had to lower it from where I had it lifted because it was binding the drive shafts. Any lower and it will basically be pointless to have the lift on.
#2
Ive seen that alot of guys go to a 2.2 size wheel/tire, maybe that will help the folding thing? As far as the binding drive safts, maybe try moving the upper links to make the axle face down a bit so the safts go straight again?
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Yea I think it might just take some time to go thru and figure out the adjustments. I think as far as tires go, I'm pondering that the lift may have brought the center of gravity up high enough, that when turning, the body has more roll, which puts more weight on the tire. I'm going to stick with the 1.9" tires, but might fiddle around with the lift.
#4
Those lift kits are awful. There is absoulty no performance increase but there is defiantly a noticeable decrease.
In terms of scale... The honcho is already a lifted truck with oversize wheels. IMO if u want that redneck mud plugger look, raise the body on the chassis a few holes.
personally I wouldn't go to 2.2... The 1.9 look big as it is and the 2.2 just don't look right and require 2/3 of the bumper to be removed as well as modifications to the body if u plan on steering with the suspension compressed.
if u plan to stuck with the lift kit, it might be worth getting some tyres more suited to onroad high speed bashing not crawling or block one or both breather holes in the wheels... With both breather holes blocked they are still very soft... Just every now and then u need to unblock the holes because they can bleed air over time and cause them to have a lower air pressure than atmospheric pressure... Ie vacuum
What are u trying to do with it? There might be another solution that we can help on....
In terms of scale... The honcho is already a lifted truck with oversize wheels. IMO if u want that redneck mud plugger look, raise the body on the chassis a few holes.
personally I wouldn't go to 2.2... The 1.9 look big as it is and the 2.2 just don't look right and require 2/3 of the bumper to be removed as well as modifications to the body if u plan on steering with the suspension compressed.
if u plan to stuck with the lift kit, it might be worth getting some tyres more suited to onroad high speed bashing not crawling or block one or both breather holes in the wheels... With both breather holes blocked they are still very soft... Just every now and then u need to unblock the holes because they can bleed air over time and cause them to have a lower air pressure than atmospheric pressure... Ie vacuum
What are u trying to do with it? There might be another solution that we can help on....
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Well for now while it is bitter cold out and some snow, I drive it around the back yard, over snow piles, in the grass. I have a concrete porch too that the truck drives on too. Mostly my turn around spot. That's why this all came up. Started after the lift kit was installed.
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When you lifted the truck all the drive angles changed and you have changes the castor angle (pivot angle of the hubs ) it needs to be close to 90 deg with the suspension at about half compression as the angle Will change a few deg +/- with suspension travel some of the binding isurs you have mentioned could be coming from the lift as well as drive shaft angles may be maxed out dragging another area that can cause binding is the dog bones and cup reduce the amount the servo turns should help but Will reduce the turning radius
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I had a similiar issue with my wife's SCX-10 Rubicon. She wanted an improvement in shocks. She is running 2.2 TSL Swampers as well. The new shocks were slightly longer but performed far better. But, when the suspension was fully extended her driveshafts would bind up. Put her ESC into thermal shutdown. one time. She didn't want to go back to the stock shocks so I got a lift/lowering kit and was able to lower the suspension (raised the top mount on the shock) so that it doesn't bind when fully extended. This still allows the shock to have full travel and no more issues with the driveshafts. She has very little fender rub but alot more articulation than with the stock suspension.
Unlike my Wraith the SCX-10 stock hubs don't have an adjustment to turn the hubs so you can angle the axle. I researched and looked into other solutions before going with the lowering kit. It all comes down to angles with the axles and driveshafts.
Unlike my Wraith the SCX-10 stock hubs don't have an adjustment to turn the hubs so you can angle the axle. I researched and looked into other solutions before going with the lowering kit. It all comes down to angles with the axles and driveshafts.
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I think RC guy nailed the tire folding issue. The binding of the drive shafts is gone as I have lowered the lift a bit. When driving today, I noticed that the hubs seemed to "roll" a little when turning. Might have to take the lift off unfortunately
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All you need to do is play with your links not sure if you havle switched to metal links yet but if you change lengths you can correct the angle by changing the lengths
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Well, I did remove the lift kit, but the problem still persists. So I put the lift back on and decided to deal with it. It only happens when turning on pavement or concrete. Since this is a crawler, should be driving too much on pavement anyway.