scx10 lipo upgrade
01-13-2015, 10:43 AM
#1
Thread Starter
scx10 lipo upgrade
I was a happy guy a few days ago when my lipo battery charger and new connectors came in the mail. so i soldered the new deans connector to the esc. cool done. learned how to use the charger(found out it was a knock off) and got the lipo all charged up. removed the nimh 6 cell sick pack and placed the lipo in the truck. learned to program the esc from youtube and was ready to go. WOW the power is amazing so much that in less than a minute the middle gear in the tranny stripped the teeth off at least half way around it's self. what an emotional crash from super happy to super sad in less than 60 seconds. well i guess i'm going for some steel gears found some for like 30-40 bucks. so in a week it will be back in action. i hope the diff gears are strong enuff to last for two minutes at least.
01-13-2015, 06:23 PM
#3
That's weird. I have an scx10 with stock gearing and a 20t wraith motor and I use it on 2s and mine is fine. My wraith however is loaded with Robinson gears and it has a tekin redline gen2 10.5 motor I use that on 2s, I couldn't imagine it lasting more than 60 seconds with the stock gears.
Sorry to hear that though :/ what kind of set up u running? ESC/motor, gearing, tires
Sorry to hear that though :/ what kind of set up u running? ESC/motor, gearing, tires
01-13-2015, 07:09 PM
#4
Thread Starter
All stock scx10 honcho but the floureon 7.4 30c 2s lipo. ae-2 esc, 27 t motor stock wheels and tires. stock gears. i found some axial steel gears on the bay for little less than 40 so i'm gonna get'em.
i was leery to about getting lipo but i went for it anyway.
i was leery to about getting lipo but i went for it anyway.
01-13-2015, 08:11 PM
#5
No reason to be out off by lipo. It adds power and run time, with that it does faint weak spots in the drive train pretty quick. It happens to everyone. Ur gears would have to be changed at some point anyways 
Lipos is a great thing, just follow the guidelines. I have learned the hard way. I had a lipo pack puff on me.
The next thing might be ur drive shafts, the stock ones like to turn into a twizzler. Mine have a little twist in them but u can't tell while its driving.
I don't mean to scare u BTW lol.
Its all part of the fun. Like everyone says if it ain't broke don't fix it, when it breaks make it better.
Lipos is a great thing, just follow the guidelines. I have learned the hard way. I had a lipo pack puff on me.
The next thing might be ur drive shafts, the stock ones like to turn into a twizzler. Mine have a little twist in them but u can't tell while its driving.
I don't mean to scare u BTW lol.
Its all part of the fun. Like everyone says if it ain't broke don't fix it, when it breaks make it better.
01-13-2015, 08:12 PM
#6
No reason to be out off by lipo. It adds power and run time, with that it does faint weak spots in the drive train pretty quick. It happens to everyone. Ur gears would have to be changed at some point anyways
Lipos is a great thing, just follow the guidelines. I have learned the hard way. I had a lipo pack puff on me.
The next thing might be ur drive shafts, the stock ones like to turn into a twizzler. Mine have a little twist in them but u can't tell while its driving.
I don't mean to scare u BTW lol.
Its all part of the fun. Like everyone says if it ain't broke don't fix it, when it breaks make it better.
Lipos is a great thing, just follow the guidelines. I have learned the hard way. I had a lipo pack puff on me.
The next thing might be ur drive shafts, the stock ones like to turn into a twizzler. Mine have a little twist in them but u can't tell while its driving.
I don't mean to scare u BTW lol.
Its all part of the fun. Like everyone says if it ain't broke don't fix it, when it breaks make it better.
01-14-2015, 02:48 AM
#7
Thread Starter
I don't mind changing them. i was going to any way. i just wish i had more than 30 seconds of lipo fun time before it stripped. after i get the gears in ill be looking at some mip shafts.
01-15-2015, 09:21 PM
#12
Thread Starter
LOL i think i get the hint.
here it is. i still need to add the LED's to the light buckets but it's done.
on the back you can adjust the spring rate from soft to stiff.
above pic it's up and below pic it is the top tilted forward.
i also posted it in the electric offroad forum but... oh well.
i'm also working on a snow thrower. here is a sneak peek.
here it is. i still need to add the LED's to the light buckets but it's done.
on the back you can adjust the spring rate from soft to stiff.
above pic it's up and below pic it is the top tilted forward.
i also posted it in the electric offroad forum but... oh well.
i'm also working on a snow thrower. here is a sneak peek.
01-16-2015, 05:22 PM
#13
How strange..... I've got 2x scx10's that have been run on 2s lipos since new.... And my kids drive them aswell, so it's safe to say they have had a hard life lol
generally there shouldn't be that much of a difference.... I've run mine on Enrich 4600mah nimh pack and the difference wasn't that much...
i suspect that the batteries u had before might of been 1/2 dead???
I strongly reccomend giving it a good inspection... As a 27t on 2s is not exactly a powerhouse or a torque monster....
Generally we see gears failing with 35t motors on 3s not stock gearing and motor
generally there shouldn't be that much of a difference.... I've run mine on Enrich 4600mah nimh pack and the difference wasn't that much...
i suspect that the batteries u had before might of been 1/2 dead???
I strongly reccomend giving it a good inspection... As a 27t on 2s is not exactly a powerhouse or a torque monster....
Generally we see gears failing with 35t motors on 3s not stock gearing and motor
Last edited by phmaximus; 01-16-2015 at 05:25 PM.
01-16-2015, 06:33 PM
#14
Thread Starter
I opened up the tranny and the middle gear is stripped almost half way around it's self. i'll do a good inspection in a few days when work slows a bit. any idea what would be causing this problem. i'm going to get new steel gears soon because i need them. so a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!
01-16-2015, 06:53 PM
#15
Sorry to get off-subject here, but that's a real scale looking plow there, Rusted, I'd say better than the one RC4WD is offering, and it's all home made. I might make something like that for my 1/6 jeep, Great Job!
01-17-2015, 02:50 AM
#17
I guess the best thing to check is disconect both front and rear driveshafts and see if everything turns by hand freely.... It migh of just been one if those things.... Allso it pays to set the slipper.... People will argue this but I believe they work a treat. Depending on gearing, voltage and the motor, there is a very real possibility that there is enough power to damage the driveline if something Is in a bind or get jammed.
u want the slipper to slip under a bind or when something gets jammed but not slip under normal crawling conditions.
As u upgrade the driveline u up the slipper tension...
When u get it up and going.... Lossen of the slipper so u can hear it slipping under hard acceleration...now that's its slipping u can tune it.
Tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn and test it again, if it still slips,go another 1/8 of a turn. Keep doing this until it doesn't slip any more. But be sure to do it in 1/8 increments and test between each run...
Now u will have the base line setting.... This is good for race cars but not crawlers, because it's a little loose for those extreme crawls.
Next step, go for a crawl... If it slips nip it up 1/8 of a turn.... It might pay to carry the wrench around when u crawl for the first 3 or so runs.... Just incase it needs slight tweeking
if u want to make it indestructible Robinson Racing are the brand to get... They have been around for years and have a fantastic reputation with racers and bathers.
u want the slipper to slip under a bind or when something gets jammed but not slip under normal crawling conditions.
As u upgrade the driveline u up the slipper tension...
When u get it up and going.... Lossen of the slipper so u can hear it slipping under hard acceleration...now that's its slipping u can tune it.
Tighten the nut 1/8 of a turn and test it again, if it still slips,go another 1/8 of a turn. Keep doing this until it doesn't slip any more. But be sure to do it in 1/8 increments and test between each run...
Now u will have the base line setting.... This is good for race cars but not crawlers, because it's a little loose for those extreme crawls.
Next step, go for a crawl... If it slips nip it up 1/8 of a turn.... It might pay to carry the wrench around when u crawl for the first 3 or so runs.... Just incase it needs slight tweeking
if u want to make it indestructible Robinson Racing are the brand to get... They have been around for years and have a fantastic reputation with racers and bathers.
01-19-2015, 05:58 PM
#20
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Location: Grand Haven, MI
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Yes! I'm running them! They are great! Smooth, super strong and are perfect in everyway except price. I scored mine for a little over $30 with shipping on eBay. If you can get them for less than $40, you should. I'm very happy with them!
01-20-2015, 10:03 PM
#22
The Baja claws are sick. They're on my wraith and they stick very well for me and even do decent in the sand.
Did u get 1.9 or 2.2? The 2.2 r going to be wayyyyy too big for an scx10. They're like a 6" tall tire.
Did u get 1.9 or 2.2? The 2.2 r going to be wayyyyy too big for an scx10. They're like a 6" tall tire.
01-21-2015, 10:14 AM
#24
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I'm looking at getting the Pro-line TSL Super Swampers 2.2. They are 5.25" tall and that should look reasonable. I have a very slight lift on my rig too, so I hope it all works. I think 5.25 is a good size for the SCX10.