DieHarder

Cool! Now I've got a couple options next time.

I decided to switch gears and start working on some of rest of the truck. I bought Pro-line TSL Super Swamper XL tires for the rig a couple weeks ago and when I opened them up/pulled the foams out, I found this:



It is memory foam so it does 'give in' quite a bit, but still. That's ridiculous! I know some guys buy those expensive Crawler Innovations foams, but I'm not comp 'comp' crawling, so a little fancy scissor work will do just fine. I drew a ring around the foam keeping it the same distance from the edge all the way around. Then I cut identical triangular-shaped pieces out the foam (somewhat identical) as advised from other threads.



For wheels, I opted for the Pro-line Denali beadlock rims. First thing I noticed on those was that there was no air-release hole in the rim. What the heck? So I drilled two 0.095" holes on each rim, 180 degrees apart and behind the spokes so that they aren't visible.



On the side, I put together some aluminum upper links. In the reviews of the 6x91 axial aluminum rod on RPP Hobby's website, reviewers talk of using them to replace the upper links on the G6. I bought them and used some spare bent rod ends on the axle end of the links to make flexing easier and lengthen the link a little, helping the driveshaft angle. Shown next to the old links:



The 48P gears have been getting to me as well. They seem loud and on the verge of stripping, so I dropped a 56T 32P Duratrax Nitro Evader spur in and paired it with a 14T 32P Robinson Racing pinion. It's a direct bolt-on upgrade involving no mods and can be done for less the $10. Here's showing how the spur gear mounting holes line up with each other as well as the difference in height and tooth size:



They run very smooth and are really quiet being metal on plastic. The gear cover still fits fine because the new spur is smaller than the old one by just a fuzz. The 48P setup was a 4.35/1 ratio and the new setup is a 4/1 ratio, so it should be a little faster which is what I want. I also installed a Junfac skid plate. For that I have no reason, it's just for looks. And maybe to help it not catch when sliding over stuff...maybe lol

DieHarder

Back to the wheels! Some guys run weights in their wheels to bring the center of gravity lower and make the suspension work more. This idea is good, however the extra rotating mass can be hard on one's axles, steering servo, and drivetrain. Some will argue that crawlers don't go fast enough to make this a significant factor, which does hold some water.

I like the idea of adding weight down low and it seems to me that if I beef up the axles, drivetrain, and steering a little, there should be no problem adding wheel weights and keeping it reliable/strong. I don't have a rock racer either (it tops out at like 8-10mph) so I'm basing some of the success of this idea on the argument I mentioned above.

With there being no specific wheel weights for the Denali wheels, I made a trip to my nearest tire shop and picked up a box full (approx. 20) of free, used wheel weights that came off 1:1 cars. These things are oddly shaped and clearly need to be 'processed' before getting fitted to the Denali rims, so to start, I cut the clips off and broke a couple into three pieces:





Then I took them over to the 20T press and flatted each one to about 1/8" thick.




Next, they were cut in half lengthwise. There were the two halves that had the other part of the steel clips imbedded in them, so I tossed those.




There is a channel on the outside of the beadlock rim that I planned to put the weights in, so I squeezed the weights to under a 1/4" so that they would fall in the channel. Here shows the lead bars in comparison to what they started as:



After making the bars, it was time to weigh it all out for each wheel. I decided to put 3.5oz/99g in each front wheel and 1.75oz/50g in the rears. So using brass weights and a precise scale from school, I weighed out the amounts and then balanced the left and right fronts together. Same for the back. This should ensure consistent and equal side to side performance.



It turned out to be 12 bars around each front wheel and 6 bars around each rear wheel, perfect! So I gave them a little warp to help them wrap around the rim better before installation.



Using super glue to tack them in place (as shown in the second pic), I put them all on using the left over circumference to keep the air release holes open. Then I wrapped the weights with like 10 layers of black tape. On the fronts, I tacked the other 6 weights to the outside of the black tape and then put 10 more layers of tape around those. Check it out:



Also, since the air release holes were blocked, I cut a little slit at each hole. I used that trick with a lighter to heat up the black tape to keep it from unraveling. I also put a little super glue on the ends as well.

Mike Flea

On the bottom of post #26, you highlighted the suggestion I made on the cloudy plastic, but did not comment, did you try it?

DieHarder

It was very odd, just a little after I ordered the tires and beadlocks RC Car Action came out with their new issue and in it was an awesome how-to on mounting beadlocks and they just happened to be using the same tire/wheel combo that I'm using.



Quite often I don't agree with stuff that they put in these mags but I still subscribe for the good stuff and to see new products/other hobbyists opinions, pit tips, reader's rides, etc.. I actually agreed with pretty much everything on the how-to though. On the beadlocks, I thought stainless steel screws looked a ton better than the black ones and like a 1:1 wheel. So 128 M2x10 screws later and a little detailing with a silver Sharpie, the G6 has a new pair of shoes.



(Tire on the right is flipped around. I'm not that stupid to put the compound marking on the outside. lol)

With that accomplished, lowering the center of gravity of the truck as far as the chassis goes was the next challenge. One thing on the list was to move the battery that is high and dry up front, to a lower position. I've only seen a few arrangements with these full size packs and I decided to opt for putting it perpendicular to the frame rails, behind the front shock hoops. So I came up with a couple of 'mounts' made from spare/extra kit parts and drilled some special holes in the battery plate to mount them:



Got a little crazy with the countersinking...



Here it is mounted up. I used/enlarged the old hole from the receiver box support and used mini zip ties to hold the front the plate to the frame rails. If you look in the pic above the pic above this (), there are a couple white spacers that I used to make the plate level.



I made the plate level so that it stays out of the way of the drive shafts and because I like to just keep my lipos generally level. It's rare that you ever see a lipo mounted sideways or upside down on rtr models.

So with the battery plate taking the place of the receiver box, I had to move the receiver box up front. With a couple more extra/spare parts mounts and the use of a battery plate spacer that I cut, the receiver box was mountable with plenty of servo clearance.



I also got the under-glow light holder installed.



I've decided to go down the road of 4WS. Some will say that the DIG is better and more useful, which I agree it is in some cases. However in this particular build I will be using the Bastens 4WS Unit - http://www.bastens.com/bastens-quadsteer.html . This way I can flip through four modes of steering including 4WS, front servo only, the crab walk, and rear steer only. I can also freeze the front or rear servo in any position when using the other servo. Pretty slick unit IMO. This will be more useful that the DIG in certain situations such as side-hilling, tight turns on pavement, and the obvious coolness factor. lol But I must say that if I was doing more official comp crawling, I'd take the DIG over this any day. I wouldn't say it has more advantages, just different/sometimes better advantages than 4WS when on the rocks.

So what I'm leading to, is just that I simply moved the rear chassis support ahead to make room for the rear servo to come up through the frame.



So here it is now:



Quite a ways from finished but it's coming. I can't work on axles until I get a certain part, which I ordered a couple weeks ago and it decided not to ship. I wasn't charged for it so I'm planning on cancelling the order tomorrow night and ordering the part from a different seller. We'll see how that goes...

But I might dive into some wiring or work on the body in the mean time. As always, stay tuned! More to come!

DieHarder

My bad Mike, I replied to it but at the top of post #26. Let me see if I can move it up there. Thanks for letting me know. I was able to solve the cloudy lexan issue with the Plast-X but if I mess something up again , I'll give it a go and try it out for sure!

RustedRC

Wow your rig is coming along nicely. a lot of good work getting put in. now that you have holes in the rims they will fill with water and that will break down the open cell foam. remember to take the foam out and clean and dry them or it will smell real bad. they only rc i have holes in the rims is my just for rocks crawler so the tire takes the shape of the rock amazingly. i don't do it to my trail or mud truck. i like the air in the tires look on them.
those foams are crazy. i have the same tires and my foams aren't like that. maybe a mix up some where.
as for the cloudy plastic mike's idea works great. you can also get something called brasso. it's a fine grit metal polish. i used it on my rs10 xt stock body to make the painted windows clear and it came out almost perfect. like the tooth paste it does take a while to do but it's worth it.
great idea with the wheel weights just be careful now that there's more rotating mass in the drive train. i went for beef tubes in the axles instead of weight in the rims.
i like how you did the battery tray. i might use that on mine. kudos man.

DieHarder

Hey man, on the wheel holes I actually drill the holes on a slight angle to provide enough room to fit a driver in there so I can screw a 4/40 or M3 screw/set screw in when preparing to run in water. I left that idea out by mistake. I normally don't run in water anyways, it's not my thing. Seems to take more of a toll on my rigs bearings, axle grease, and all that than what I get out of it in fun. I'm sticking mostly to thick mud, rocks, and woods trails.

Brasso, I read that on a thread when I was looking for a solution. I didn't have any on hand so I kept searching. Great idea though!

On the wheel weights, I saw some guys were putting 8-10oz in the front wheels while others only put a couple ounces in. After a little research, guys with 3-4oz in the front and 1-2oz in the back claimed to be having the best performance. So I opted for 3.5oz/1.75oz to make a difference but not beat on the drivetrain/motor/servo too much. Actually later in this build I will be installing beef tubes, along with aluminum C-hubs and knuckles and MIP drive shafts. Should have plenty of weight down low and this will beef everything up to help with the wheel weights and wideners (coming up later).

What beef tubes are you running? I tried purchasing some custom made ones off of Amazon but they decided not to ship and don't look like they will be. I'll be cancelling the order tonight as they are 10 days late of being delivered. I know you can buy the Original Beef Tubes for $56 shipped, but I saw that Asiatees sells some Kronik Stainless Steel Axle Tubes that are around $11 and axle. It would only cost me ~$27 to have them shipped to my house from China. Guys I know have ordered from them and received their order in 6-10 days. I think I'll be going that route, but I'm curious as to what you bought?

RustedRC

Weight in the wheels is a helpful thing to do but after you get the upgrades you mentioned you may do as i did and opt out of all the extra weight from them. i have installed pretty much those upgrades and didn't see it necessary in the tires. some times you'll notice that too much weight can have a negative side to it. just sharin what iv'e found out and IMO.
as for the beef tubes. there not actually (beef tubes) but as close as i seen. they are crawl tubes and made of brass. i got them off ebay for like 25 bucks. don't think they are there any more. had to dremmel inside the axle like normal and they fit like they should.
i like to have my weight bias on my rig at about 60 front and 40 rear. some where around there is a good place to good climbing traction and hill descending. then some shocks and or some tuning will help get together.
i try to look at it as a full size for a type of thought reference. the same on a 1:1 scale would be like 20-30 some pounds of weight in your tires. so scaled down a little is kinda a lot. just my crazy way of looking at it.

DieHarder

I see your point on the weight. After the beef tubes, I will have added a total of 5.1oz to the front and 3.35oz to the rear. At 8.45oz total weight added, 5.07oz is 60% of the total weight and is pretty much the same as 5.1oz. 3.38oz is 40% of the total weight and is pretty much the same as 3.35oz. So technically, of the weight that I'll have added, it is distributed as 60/40. As the truck sits now (no axles or shocks) with a mocked up rear bumper and battery in place for measuring purposes, the COG is as about two inches forward of the middle of the truck. Since the truck is about 19 inches long with the bumpers, that two inches is about 10% of the truck's length. Making it currently 60/40. So after adding weight in the 60/40 pattern. The end result of the trucks weight distribution should still be in the neighborhood of 60/40.

I agree on excessive weight having a downside (it'll sink a little more in the mud, not fly off a jump as well , or it will slide down a hill easier) but considering the weight I've seen others add, I feel this is about right or maybe a little over doing it for the types of terrain I roam most. I guess I'm shooting more for the competition level truck that never gets taken to real comps. lol Kinda like driving a 1:1 track car on the streets. It'll be overkill for regular trailing but at the same time, I have a challenge of using it's features such as weight in the wheels and 4WS to maneuver around/under/over regular trail obstacles. Then when I get to the rocks, I won't have to change anything up and it will be using it's full potential. I appreciate and respect your advice as a hobbyist with much more experience in crawlers than myself. As far as I'm concerned we're in agreement on the 60/40 weight distribution being the best, since from what I can calculate it's 60/40 with or without weights. However weights will lower the other COG (how far she tips before she flips), giving an advantage, at least from what I can figure... They are beadlocks so I can always pull them down the road. I might just have to get bit before I drop them type of thing.

On a side note, I ordered the Kronik Axle Tubes for the SCX10 from Asiatees last night. Should be here on Saturday or next week, then I can build the axles.

DieHarder

I messed that up. There are two wheels/tires on each axle, so the front received 8.6oz all together and the rear received 5.1oz. Total weight added is 13.7oz, 40% being 5.48oz and 60% being 8.22. So a little more than 60% of the weight was added to the front and little under 40% was added to the rear. So ultimately the truck's overall weight distribution should be like 63/37.

DieHarder

Man I really need to finish this up. lol Gone too long being untouched. School, work, and driver's ed have been killing my spare time. Finally finding the time two months later!

So where were we? Ah yes, the beef tubes. They showed up. lol



They required some modding of the axle to make them fit. I little Dremel work with a sanding drum...



Perfect! Got em seated!



With that, I put the axle housing together slid on the STRC aluminum C-hubs, which screwed into the beef tubes nicely. I like how they put tapped holes in both ends of the beef tubes so that if you strip out one while installing a C-hub, you can just flip the tube around and have a fresh hole. A+ for thinking ahead on this design!

Also, I put the aluminum steering arms together, bolted the STRC aluminum knuckles on, installed all new Traxxas rubber sealed bearings (I hate their product line but only buy their universal parts such as bearings, screws, clips, etc. because they are cheap), and put the Savox SC-0251 servo on w/ a Dynamite 25T aluminum horn. The servo puts out 222oz/in at 0.18sec/60deg.



Got the rims bolted on with Junfac 13mm extensions. I thought about doing 19mm, but that's just too wide. I think it looses crawling capabilities with going too wide because the axle pumpkin catches on more things. And the longer the extension, the more of a beating the C-hubs, knuckles, and the axle in it's entirety is going to get. RC4WD's 15mm ones were tempting, but still too wide for me. Besides, the red matches my rig.



I built the rear axle in the same way. The front and rear are basically identical. This is for the 4WS setup. It took a couple more parts than I had anticipated to convert the rear axle to be able to steer, but it came out great. Shots of some duplicate parts and extras...



With all that, I started lining up the front axle and realized that there just wasn't the clearance that I wanted between the servo and the receiver box mounts that I made earlier. So I revised the mounts and came up with a new setup that I think is actually better. I used the mounts that came with my Vanquish light bar and an extra link end. It's really quite strong. This raised the receiver box higher too for extra servo clearance. Now the servo can't even get close to it. The problem with that though would be my antenna tube would now hit the underside of the body. A little heat gun action and it was good to go. Later on I threaded the antenna through one of the body post holes to keep it out of the way. As you can see, with the winch and all the 4WS stuff, extensions, etc. The receiver box is full. Tons of wires coming out of that baby!

Mike Flea

Them axles should be bullet-proof now!

DieHarder

So everybody seems to have a different favorite driveshaft. I've heard a lot about MIP driveshafts, a little about the Junfac ones, and even less about the RC4WD Punisher shafts (the things I have heard about the Punishers have been really good though). I decided on the MIPs since I thought that they looked really tough, smooth, and would be a bolt on fit (not). Also, the Junfacs were only for the Dingo wheelbase. So I put the shafts together (they give you too much thread lock and not enough grease... Had to use my own grease.), which went pretty good. But I started sizing things up and found that the gear cover rubs quite a bit on the rear driveshaft. On top of that, the Traxxas pins I bought for them (recommended on RPP Hobby) were much too long. I was disappointed with MIP. So with the Dremel again, I hacked out a spot on my gear cover so that the driveshaft had plenty of clearance at all angles and made sure I didn't dremel too deep and put a hole in the cover. It came out great really.



Now because the pins were so long, I had to modify the one at the joint were it was rubbing on the gear cover. If I had left it, it would have put a hole in the cover and ripped it to pieces. So I cut the pin to length and then took some threads off as well because it wouldn't thread in far enough. Here is a comparison of a regular pin vs the modified one.



I left the other three pins alone since their extra length was even close to interfering with anything. On the driveshaft ends, I read a trick somebody posted on RCCrawler.com to keep the CV retainer pin in if the set screw comes loose. He said to put a large diameter piece of shrink tube over the end of the driveshaft to hold the pin in at all times. Great idea IMO so I went with it on all of the joints. I think it looks ok.



With all that, I started putting all the wiring in place and soldering up the blue under glow lights, bumper lights, and putting the outlets in for the body lights. With the axles and all, she's really starting to look mean. I also installed the Hot Racing 'Black' winch hook. It's black with a red pin. I had to get a bigger hook to fit the winch accessories. It also doesn't have that stupid little spring clip, so it should be pretty fast now to hook into and unhook stuff.



The driveshaft angles look really good too. I has a slight lift, but with the link ends being bent ones, they are longer than a regular link end. This extra length tips the axle upward and helps the driveshaft angle coming out of the axle, which you all probably know...



About the last thing I did to the chassis was I bought some Axial 7x60mm post. I wanted to strengthen the shock towers. Tbh, buying aluminum shock towers isn't much better than the plastic ones, because the tower is only going to be as strong as it is mounted to the chassis. So to save a little money and get a stronger setup, I put these posts in between the front towers and in between the back towers. The screws that hold the lift plates in place screw into end of the post where it is threaded. This setup is VERY strong, like I can't really even move the towers with my hands. Better than aluminum towers IMO.



That pretty much concludes the chassis build. Hopefully this setup proves to be strong and capable enough to suit my crawling needs.

DieHarder

Definitely! Outside of getting aluminum housings, I'm thinking this has to be the strongest. I could use an aluminum truss, but that might be a 'down the road' type of upgrade. lol

RustedRC

That's awesome man. now it's ready to hit the trails. cool that the beef tubes can be flipped around. mine is set up close to your's and i beat the snot out of mine most of the time. some things do break from time to time but when it's good much fun is to be had.
better get some run time in while you can snow's on the way DieHarder. speaking of snow i can't wait to use the plow again.

jatoRC

Dieharder that is a nice looking scale Jeep you have there. It just needs some head lights!

I put some 6 watt LEDs on my Rubicon that are poweref by a separate battery.

After I got the holes all cut out they fit perfectly.


They look good on!


They are really bright, I have a set on my drone for night flying. Now I can run the Jeep at night.


This is the battery mounted to the body under the hood with Velcro.

DieHarder

Thanks man! I actually finished the build a little while ago, just want to finish up the build thread, it was going so well. As of now, the only thing I've had trouble with is the RC4WD wireless winch controller. Everybody has issues with those... I think the remote needs new batteries, so I'll be ordering new ones soon. Other than that, the thing has held up great!

Your plow setup is beast! Love how scale it is. A+ bro! I'm working on a plow setup for this winter as well, except this SCX10 won't be pushing it. Whenever I take my truck snow running where the wheels slip and throw snow, the bearings end up rusting out on the melt down. Plus it washes grease out of my driveshaft, rusts other stuff (like my new beadlock rings that are powder coated steel), and I just hate that. Tried WD-40 after runs, but I can't get everything with it. Decided to put the plow on my TL-01 this year and baby my rock crawler for awhile. Spent enough on this thing in parts this year. lol

DieHarder

Nice man! I like the switch idea, that's helpful. I have lights coming up in the build though. I have a BEC running 9v that they will be powered by. Thanks for the suggestion though, looks like a nice clean setup on your rig!

DieHarder

So moving on to the body, I got the Vanquish 5" Rigid Industries light bar mounted up on my homemade mounts, along with the custom light bar guard that I carved out of the old G6-style light bar setup. Also put the "MUD IS IN MY BLOOD" decal on. I think it came out pretty nice.



And the snorkel, which bolts into the body where it goes under the hood and is zip-tied to the light bar mount at the top. Love the look.



Next, I decided that I like the spare tire look. I think it looks tougher and just kind of pulls it all together. Since I already have a rear bumper that I made and if I bought one, it would be too wide for the G6's dovetail rear end. So I had to come up with SOMETHING! I really wanted this thing. lol You know that extra long body post that comes with the kits? I chopped it up and drilled some holes it, then mounted it on the back of the cage. The molded part on the back of the body holds the lower part of the post in place.



Here it is with the tire on. I wasn't buying more rims and tires, so I just used one of the older Trepadors that I was running.



Next I Started laying out the wiring and soldering stuff up. I bought 9v prewired LEDs that have the bulb soldered directly to a resister and then has the black and red wire coming off it. 10mm (oversized) headlights, 5mm signal lights, 5mm tail lights, 5mm bumper lights, 5mm blue under glow lights, and 5mm blue cage spot lights. The main under glow lights are purple and run off of 12v coming straight from the battery. The light bar also comes straight out of the battery for a full 12v+. I used simple retainers for all the individual LEDs and painted the ones for the headlights silver to match the light buckets.



The light buckets were a challenge because one of them was broken and missing a large piece. I found out that I can't buy just the buckets that come with the body. My options were limited to a Knights Customs grill (expensive), a custom light bucket setup, or repair the broken one. I actually decided to attempt a repair, I had nothing to lose. I successfully repaired it with Shoo Goo, Harbor Freight 5 min Epoxy, and 220 grit sand paper, then painted them silver but black on the backside. As bad as the broken one was, I'm very happy with how it came out. Nobody looks up close anyway to see how crappy the one looks, but at least it's strong, holds the light in, and is the right color. I'm not proud of it at all, but I'm not gonna worry about it.



I Shoo Goo-ed the light buckets on with the headlights in. Here are some shots with all the retainers and bulbs in. I used a silver Sharpie to make the bumper light retainers stand out for a cooler look.



More to come guys! I won't leave you hanging again.

RustedRC

It's most likely the batteries in the remote.
i run in a lot of water so i know what you mean about the water getting in things. i change the grease every few runs and it's holding up well. you can get a bearing kit for the scx10 for like 20 bucks. thanks for the props on the plow. got the lights on it and even got the snow chains on the tires. it's coming and i'm ready. (lol)
body is looking good. i think small flaws look cool. ads more realistic look. that snorkel is killer.

DieHarder

I could probably swing a $20 bearing kit at the end of the season and regrease some stuff, but it's kinda like I built up my TL-01 truck to go slow and have torque just to pull my trailer and push a plow. If I didn't use it for plowing, it means 50% less to me in terms of evening owning it. lol It isn't doing all that great though. Lots of it is held together with zip ties, it has plastic gears (but I locked the rear diff), a 4:1 GRU, a nice Tekin Gen2 Sensored motor though. IDK, if it dies I'm probably gonna put the plow on the SCX10. It would probably push it better anyways, just not totally looking forward to water and rust in everything...

DieHarder

So next I strapped on the scale accessories that I made.



I shoo goo-ed all the wiring and purple under glow lights to the bottom of the body, which came out really nice.



LIGHTS! Camera! Action!



I setup four different light circuits. The headlights/taillights/cage, the blue under glow/bumper lights, the light bar, and the purple under glow lights. I can plug in any of them in any combination. Anything from one circuit to all four. I considered doing a remote switch setup, but wanted to have the four different circuits. It's possible to remotely control four circuits, but it would take an additional four channels and $80 in remote switches. Not worth it to me, I don't mind just plugging them in.



I didn't take a pic with just the light bar, but you can imagine it.

And a couple shots of were the under glow lighting comes from:



There are also the blue lights that shine down from the bottom of the rear bumper. Once again, no pic. Sorry.

I also found that the new chassis setup will crawl a 50 degree piece of plywood without slipping. I'm very impressed with that!



It also flexes a LOT and has such a low center of gravity that it tips a long way before flipping. Check it out!



Lastly, I straightened the license plate, which is one of many. I'll be changing them periodically for fun. And I also got my lipo charged up. I put in storage for the two months that the truck would be down for all these upgrades. Tomorrow I will put up my final post to complete the build. Stay tuned guys!

RustedRC

With all that work coming together i'd have to say it's gonna be a killer rig to run.

DieHarder

Thanks man! I'm really happy with it.

DieHarder

So after all those upgrades, I was left with quite a stack of empty packages. Can't believe how many of em showed up at my house over the past couple weeks!



As for upgrades down the road, I'll be getting these when I find the extra $$.

-A Large Black Mopar Decal to put on the hood (either 4x4" or 5x5").
-Vanquish Aluminum Upper 4-Link Trusses
-Steel/Aluminum Rock Sliders (stock ones are hideous IMO, can stay for awhile though)
-Gmade Red Zero 94mm or 104mm Shocks
-Hot Racing American Eagle Tire Cover for the spare
-A Driver Figure (maybe, still undecided)

So with that, I did my first couple trail runs.



Here is a comparison shot on the same stump.



Similar, yet very different.

I did another trail run where I hauled it to the crawling site on my trailer that I built here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-c...l#post12035927



And here is one taken recently. Since I finished the build, I've added a couple new decals to the windshield as well as some chain on the front bumper and in the roll cage just for added coolness. Got a couple inches of snow, couldn't miss out that...



That completes the build for now! Thanks to anyone who read any of this (or all of it *many thanks*)! lol When I go to do the other upgrades, I'll probably post them here. In the mean time, keep crawlin damn it!