Roll Cage
05-05-2016, 12:45 PM
#1
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Roll Cage
Hey guys, just joined the forum today to try and get some help with my crawler. I have the Redcat Rockslide. I know, I know its just a cheap one and I should get a better one but it was all I could afford at the time and its enough to get me into crawlers before I buy an expensive one. My question is for the people who have built roll cages for their crawlers. What did you make it out of and how did you assemble it? Also, what are some tips you could give me when building mine? Thanks.
05-05-2016, 02:36 PM
#2
Ain't nothing wrong with having a rock slide. i own one and still run it around the back yard. i have done some upgrades to it and it's still running. it's also what got me in to rc crawling. i don't have any tips for making a cage but this should help out some.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3lPRw3kt3o.
hello and welcome to your new addiction.
if it's a new one the first thing you are going to need is servos.
hello and welcome to your new addiction.
if it's a new one the first thing you are going to need is servos.
05-05-2016, 02:45 PM
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure I destroyed the front steering servo the other day. The front wheels twitch even when I'm not turning. I expected to have to upgrade a few things on it. I started with nitro, and I still love it but I wanted to get into crawling.
05-05-2016, 03:14 PM
#4
yep time for a new servo. nitro is cool just not my thing. when you start doings upgrades let me know and i'll give you some advice on a couple of things. no matter what anyone says about the rock slide i think it's a great place to start if your looking to get into crawling.
05-05-2016, 05:44 PM
#6
Cage Building: Take a gander at my 1/6 Jeep build, only a couple pics, but you'll get the idea. Since it is a 1/6 scale Jeep, I used 1/4 inch brakeline for the rollcage. I bought a couple 6ft lengths of the coated brakeline, don't do that, get the uncoated if it's available. I had to sand/grind the coating off before I could brazed the pieces together. When you purchase the brakeline, it would be wise to also purchase a tubing bender, unless you have something already. Without a bender, you will kink the tubing trying to make your bends. You'll also need a small tubing cutter.
For brazing the brakeline the best solder to use is Silver solder. It can be purchased 2 ways, in a coil, or in a pack of 5 sticks, get the sticks, easier to handle and use, and you'll also need flux for silver solder. Go to Airgas.com, they are a welding supply, there are stores nationwide, so there may be a store near you, to purchase the silver solder and the Safety-Silv flux. Silver solder is the best to use for soldering brakeline, because it has a low melting point. The package of Silver rods, and the Safety-Silv flux will run you right around $50.
You'll also need a torch, if you don't already have one. I use MAPP gas. It burns hotter than propane, but can be purchased at the local hardware store for not that much more than a propane kit.
If you buy it in a kit, you should get a bottle, electronic torch head, and igniter for around $30. The electronic torch head is nice, because once you ignite the torch, there's a button on top that will let the torch burn while your finger is not on the trigger.
Measuring and cutting the tube is up to you. There is a lot of trial and error involved if you've never done this before. When brazing two pieces perpendicular to each other, it's best to use a small grinder or Dremel to grind a fishmouth on the open end of the tube. This does 2 things, 1) it helps hold the perpendicular tube onto the cross tube to make it easier to braze, and 2) gives the solder more of an area to fill in and make a solid joint. When you first start brazing tubes together, you may find it easier to use a flat piece of metal to clamp the 2 pieces to be joined. Best thing I can say is go to your local library, and check out a book on beginning brazing, or have a friend that knows what he or she is doing to help you. I taught myself. I knew a little about welding from Metal Shop in High School. Once you get your cage brazed up, it'll look ugly, grab a small grinding wheel on your Dremel, lightly grind smooth all your brazed joints, hit it with primer, and the color of your choice, and no one will know the difference!
Good luck, have a sense of humor, and be safe!
For brazing the brakeline the best solder to use is Silver solder. It can be purchased 2 ways, in a coil, or in a pack of 5 sticks, get the sticks, easier to handle and use, and you'll also need flux for silver solder. Go to Airgas.com, they are a welding supply, there are stores nationwide, so there may be a store near you, to purchase the silver solder and the Safety-Silv flux. Silver solder is the best to use for soldering brakeline, because it has a low melting point. The package of Silver rods, and the Safety-Silv flux will run you right around $50.
You'll also need a torch, if you don't already have one. I use MAPP gas. It burns hotter than propane, but can be purchased at the local hardware store for not that much more than a propane kit.
If you buy it in a kit, you should get a bottle, electronic torch head, and igniter for around $30. The electronic torch head is nice, because once you ignite the torch, there's a button on top that will let the torch burn while your finger is not on the trigger.
Measuring and cutting the tube is up to you. There is a lot of trial and error involved if you've never done this before. When brazing two pieces perpendicular to each other, it's best to use a small grinder or Dremel to grind a fishmouth on the open end of the tube. This does 2 things, 1) it helps hold the perpendicular tube onto the cross tube to make it easier to braze, and 2) gives the solder more of an area to fill in and make a solid joint. When you first start brazing tubes together, you may find it easier to use a flat piece of metal to clamp the 2 pieces to be joined. Best thing I can say is go to your local library, and check out a book on beginning brazing, or have a friend that knows what he or she is doing to help you. I taught myself. I knew a little about welding from Metal Shop in High School. Once you get your cage brazed up, it'll look ugly, grab a small grinding wheel on your Dremel, lightly grind smooth all your brazed joints, hit it with primer, and the color of your choice, and no one will know the difference!
Good luck, have a sense of humor, and be safe!
05-06-2016, 01:20 PM
#8
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My cuz and i built cages for our slashes by hand with some metal stick stock and just mig welded them together, de-burred with a dremel, and crackle can them when your done. I know guys like to gas weld for this application more but I just don't out of personal preference. I don't remember the gauge that we used but it was pretty light weight when it was done so the difference in handling was barely noticeable. They weren't super pretty but they functioned perfectly and they were under the body so we were happy with them. Each truck cost us about 4 dollars to cage out. Be warned it takes patience as you wanna measure every thing a ton before you pull that trigger, expect a ton of trying to hold everything up and make sure it all fits with out rubbing or being in the way of hardware. Took us half a day to do two trucks so not crazy long but not quick either but for our first try we were happy.
05-06-2016, 06:21 PM
#9
Oh, and one more tip. You can use welding magnets to hold the pieces to be joined, together, but keep the magnets away from the joint, and DON'T hit the magnets with the flame. Most magnets are ceramic, they will explode/shatter from the heat of the flame.
