Klutch 5000

Want to get into crawling. Not scared of spending a little money. I would like to now what to start with. I'm running nitro truggies now and have no experience with the electic stuff. What kind of electronics do I need, batteries, speed control and whatever else. I have a Spektrum DX3R radio with extra reciever, will that do. I just need in a boost in the right direction. I was thinking of getting the Axial ARTR when it comes out. Please a little help, thanks in advance.

dezfan

The Axial ARTR is a good start.

As for electronics, Buy the best servo you can afford w/ the highest torque rating you can find, a Mamba Max or Sidewinder ESC, a 3 cell 25C 2200 mAH battery and a 35 to 55t motor.

Your DX3R and receiver are fine.

thetoptanner

My Feedback: (2)

You are smarter than you think. The Axial it a great kit. I think the ARTR is probably the best choice you could have picked. It has all the great features of the Kit version plus it has some nice upgrades. Sinstered lockers, improved geometry and steering, proline hammer tires with memory foams, rear axle lockouts, high clearance links on the rear and a competition body. The kit version does however have all steel hardware, and, you will miss the fun of building it from a bunch of small parts! I do have a couple of recommendations. Go ahead when you buy the truck an buy the drive shaft rings that keep them from popping off. There are two known weak links in the stock axial kits. The driveshafts and the shocks. The driveshaft rings will help the stock ones last much longer with fewer problems. Put them on immediately. If you wanna go ahead and fix the problems before they start Put some stampede driveshafts and some better shocks on it.

As for electronics, You really dont need anything fancy as far as the radio and receiver goes. I bought a brand new radio system pulled off an axial RTR on ebay for $29 or so. Works fine for me. The radio you mentioned that you already have is much better than mine so, absolutely use it! I dont recommend brushless or lipo a crawler. Dont get me wrong. There are a ton of folks that use them but the brake system isnt as strong so I have heard with the brushless. A good start for a motor would be something similar to a integy 55t lathe motor. Any speed control with a brake will work, but one with drag brakes is preferred for competition crawling. In competition, any time the truck rolls backwards a point is deducted. A drage brake is a brake which is anytime you let off the throttle, the brakes automaticly lock and hold the truck from rolling back. If I were you I would just check into the novak rooster crawler esc/motor combo. Comes with the speed control and crawler motor and includes all the features you will need.

I recommend getting a good high torque metal gear servo. Can get them around 30 to 35 bucks. Hitec 645mg etc.

Ok, as for the batteries. The stock 7.2 battery packs used on most rc cars will work. With the stock battery location on the axial the center of gravity is high and on steep climbs it will want to roll over like crazy. I recommend getting a pack that uses the 2/3A size cells. A 6 or 7 will be fine and mount it on the front axle above the servo, or a special front axle battery and servo mount can be had at most online crawler stores. There is a battery mount that you can use a split 2/3A cell pack with and half the cells mount on the left of the servo and the other half on the right. These pack are not the easiest to find. Not in stock in most stores but, Cheapbatterypacks website builds them and sells them. The dont cost a lot. These smaller cells do hold less juice than a standard sub c size nimh battery pack but, they do hold about as much as a standard sub c nicad pack. 1200 to 1500 mah.
The 55T crawler motors use battery power than a higher turn motor such as even a 27 turn stock motor so run time should not be an issue with them.

SOme people do use Lipo packs but I do not recommend them on a crawler. They are simply too dangerous. All it would take is one good fall off the rock to impact the battery, short the wires or something else and you would be watching your precious crawler go up in smoke. Go to youtube and search for lipo fire videos and you will see what I mean.

Good luck

The Real Dogman

What a long winded puffer!! RTR or kit whatever floats your boat both have pros and cons(plastic links vs. aluminum links ect) Castle Sidewinder or Mamba Max over novak any day, Castle has better battery support and computer adjustable, hook up to laptop and adjust drag brake as well a whole lot more. 35t hand wound motor much better wheel speed when needed and great crawling torque. I have been using a ThunderPower 3S lipo for months without Any issues(it sits behind my hs5955tg servo and my rig holds the local distance tumble record of about 50'down a sheer face) and the battery delivers clean amped up power!!I will last a complete comp plus an hour or so of messing around after. DX3R is the way to go for Crawling since it has capabilities of a programmed 3rd channel

Dezfan has been around the block a few times. He will always give good info if he has it!! Most other just wish they knew as much!!

dezfan

Why exactly is a Lipo "dangerous" on a crawler? Please don't believe the "hype" about the "danger" of Lipo batteries. They are very safe and offer superior performance, longevity, and weigh less than NIMH cells.

As for the Hitec 645, it is barely adequate at best. I strongly suggest a Hitec 5595 TG rated at 333 oz's.

FORDMIKE65

I'm looking to upgrade my ESC.I'm running an old Tekin Rebel I had lying around.Was going to go with the Novak Rooster Crawler,but I've benn hearing good things about the Castle Creations Sidewinders.Which is better for my AX-10?I have a CC BEC,2 645MGs,TCS 8-cell 2/3c split pack & Integy 70t.Thanks-Mike

dezfan

The Sidewinder is a fantastic ESC, but be sure you don't get the Sidewinder Micro though.

FORDMIKE65

I thought someone here was using the Micro,but I guess I'll go with the 1/10 Sidewinder Sport then,right?It can handle the 8-cell correct?Thanks for the help.

FORDMIKE65

I also meant to include the CC 1/18 Mamba Micro Pro in my choices.Is it really rated at only 30 amps while the micro is rated at 100amps,or is this a misprint?

thetoptanner

My Feedback: (2)

If a Lipo is so safe why do they come with so many warnings? Why the smart people store them and charge them in fireproof boxes and stuff? Why do they recommend you dont mess with them until about 25 minutes after an impact? Why do they sell fireproof bags for them. As a matter of fact I saw a friend of mines Micro T go up in flames just driving with no impact. The bad things is. If they catch fire you cant just dosem with water to put it out. The water just makes it burn hotter. Thats a fact. That said there are millions of user who use lipo batteries, me being one. But I dont recommend them in some situations. They do make me nervous. Thats all. But know matter how much you know about the hobby you cant dispute the fact that lipos are dangerous and a fire hazard.

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

I wouldn't say Lipo is anymore dangerous on a crawler than any other R/C. If anything they are less dangerous on a crawler because there is less chance you'll overheat or damage them in a crash. I'd be much more afraid to use one in a touring car than a crawler.

With that said it all depends on how you look at it. I personally believe Lipo batteries are more dangerous than Nimh and Nicad and have had a bad experience with one where it blew up like a balloon without any bumping, overcharging, or damage done to it. Thats not to say that other batteries can't explode or catch fire as well, as I've seen that happen to others, just that Lipo is more dangerous.

dezfan

Have you got in a new car lately? Did you happen to see all the warning labels in it? Did it prevent you from driving? Fact is, in today's world of little or no personal responsibility and the threat of litigation at the drop of a hat, warning labels are a necessary evil. I don't blame the manufactures for all of the warnings.

That said, all of the safety precautions suggested for lipo use could just as easily be applied to Nimh as well. The fact that Nimh cells came into use before the widespread availability of the Internet or You Tube is one reason you never heard about the "dangers" of Nimh batteries in the same manor you have in regards to lipo. It's fascinating what a little misinformation and mass communication can do when used in unison.

I personally have seem many more Nimh cells fail in the last year than I have lipo. This is due to the manufactures pushing the cells beyond their operational capabilities. When you weigh the pros of lipo use against the cons of Lipo use, the positives far outweigh the negatives.

Also, as lipo technology and experience w/ the chemistry and assembly improve, so does the safety factor. The perils that are present, are being addressed and minimised by the manufacturers.

I have never personally seen a lipo have a catastrophic failure while in use. I have seen a few "puff" do to the lack of proper LVC use or packs that were used that were not rated for the intended usage.

Education and knowledge are the answer. If you choose a pack that is rated for the intended use, use a quality lipo charger, balance charge your packs, and use a LVC, lipo cells are no more or less dangerous than any other batteries, they just require different techniques to insure their safe usage.

The lack of understanding for proper use and care of lipo batteries, the fear mongering seen in so many videos on You Tube, and the misinformation spread in forums like this is why there is so much fear and misunderstanding about lipo cells.

Lipo doesn't need to be feared, but it does need to be respected. It is just like any other tool. If used correctly it is a great benefit to the user, if used incorrectly, it can be dangerous and harmful

The Real Dogman

Hey Dez, I totally agree!! But call me stupid but what does "LVC" stand For??

dezfan

I won't call you stupid, I'll call you informed.

LVC stands for, "Low Voltage Cut Off".

The Real Dogman

LMAO!! that was one those major "DOH!" moments as I run lipos myself!!! Thanx brah!! lol

jayavanmaele

Hi i,m new to crawlers and i want to buy a crawlers for around 400 dollars...But i don,t want to build it because i don,t no how to...So i would perfer to have it RTR... But i also want it to be very good and good quilty.......i,ve been driving rc cars for about 6 years now... what would be best for me.....please reply

MTpockets

YOUR THREAD JUST GOT JACKED

dezfan

Hello.

For a great crawler that only needs to have it's electronics installed, check out the Axial ARTR or their RTR. The RTR will be a bit less capable as a crawler do to some of it's components.

I would recommend the ARTR.

jayavanmaele

Thanks i will check it out....And do you know where to find rc beach buggys looks like alot of fun

dezfan

Not really.

fxstsdon

dumb newbie...
how does the duratrax 1/14 meassure up? does it fit into the rules for comp? does anyone know if its worth buying? Thankx for your time.

dezfan

The Duratrax is still new and I haven't had a chance to test one just yet. It doesn't fit in any existing comp classes, but w/ the Losi Crawler also being released there may be new rules drawn up for a mini crawler class.

I would hold off for just a bit until it's been released and you can read a few reviews.

As I'm a crawler crackhead, I'm sure I'll own one.

fxstsdon

Ok...Thankx for the info.. I appreciate it...
One of many more dumb questions. The ax10 scorpion, is it better to get the kit and build it up? or go another route and get the artr or the rtr? Whats included with the artr?

drevil

My Feedback: (5)

The biggest differences between the kit and the ARTR is that the ARTR comes with orange anodized parts (as opposed to green on the kit), proline hammer tires, bent links, and a different body. Neither comes with electronics, but the ARTR comes assembled.

dezfan

If I were buying an Axial at the moment, I would get the ARTR for the reasons mentioned above.