1/6 hummer, ideas, thoughts, suggestions?
 

I FINALLY found a 1/6 new bright on ebay that wasn't asking $150 for it (seriously, many are asking $100 plus just for the bodies!)
I got a fully working one for $55 shipped :)

These are a huge disappointments, they really suck to drive. being so huge, you would think you could at least drive around the yard....Nope. They get stuck easy.

Anyway, after an hour I figured out how to pull the body and floor pan off of the main chassis.

I have a exceed 1/8 mad torque crawler. The 2 should go together well as you see from the pics. The tires look great with this body!

I recal someone on here had a 1/6 cadilac they did. Id love to see pics of the chassis. Even if it was a shaft driven crawler, it could still give me some ideas.

The underside is not smooth. The frame is almost sturdy enough I could just mount the links and shocks to it. But I think I will have to make a separate chassis and mount it to the body/frame.
Im sure a fair amount of dremel work will be needed as well.

Im thinking of doing a droop setup. so that at ride height it will have like .5 or 1 inch of up travel and a couple inches of down travel.

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Lol I have the same hummer from when I was little, your right; junk
I probably could have given it to you for free

if what you have is one of these huge 28'' ones, put it on ebay. you will get $60 easy...just for the body.

Here is an idea for the chassis and all u would need to do is mount the gearbox in the cradle.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/large...ge-scaler.html

Or u could easily make a plate chassis like I did similar in theory to a HPI savage.(no welding required)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...67a0c69b0421f3

wow, that chassis setup is nice.

the bottom of the H2 body would make that type of chassis tricky tho.

I just did a test run of my setup. The rear of the chassis still needs some work, like the rear rails removed and the rear links made a bit longer but it still performed well for a first test.

I removed the oil and springs from the shocks, and put small springs inside the shocks. the shocks are fully compressed at rest. This was done to give it the most flex without having the body jacked way up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pdz3Giz5q0&feature=youtu.be I still have to make mounts for the ESC/battery. they were just loosely mounted for the test. The battery will go under the hood and the ESC in the trunk.
And I have some lights to wire up as well.
The silver chassis rails will be painted black so they don't stand out as much, and I have some metal airplane gas tanks I will mount in the back to fill in the void and add some scale detail.
I also plan to make a tow hitch and eventually a scale trailer for it.

I had been thinking I would mount the battery/esc in the trunk...that I thought would be the easiest way. But the esc has a very short rx lead, so the rx would have to go in back and thus the servo would need a very long extension.

so then I looked under the hood. I realized the fake engine plate wasn't molded to the rest of the body, but was a separate piece.

Pulled it out, made a battery tray and found the ESC and rx could fit on top of the wheel well! This way the only wires I have to extend are the rear motor wires. Plus the weight gets to be over the front where it should work best. I think it looks pretty good and it will not be hard to change the battery. Best of all, you wont see any of the electronics/battery from under the truck.

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Awesome , it's getting there

its got a lot of body roll? are the springs a little soft?

I did some reading on Droop suspension setups. I have the springs on top of the pistons. I need to put them below the pistons. this should help reduce body roll and make it look a bit more scale in how the suspension flexes.

Ahh yep that's what I wanted for mine but my shocks are to short.. I'm only running about 20% droop... I wanted 50% but it would of got to expensive experimenting with long shocks and springs.

i don't know is putting the springs under the pistons us going to help... Surly I'm miss something but... Wouldent that just make the shocks compress??

correct. sitting flat, my shocks are fully compressed (as seen in the video) but with the springs on top of the piston when a wheel drops the spring helps push the piston down (and conversely, the body UP)
This is fine on flat ground. but if the suspension flexes when the truck is side hilling, then there is nothing trying to level the body. the opposite is true, the shock then are pushing the body to one side.
When I get around to changing the springs to be under the piston, they will always be trying to compress the shocks, thus leveling the body. Most of the weight is in the wheels/axles, and the springs are small. So there should still be plenty of suspension flex.
But in the case of going up a hill (like those boards) the shocks would be trying to bring the front of the body down, instead of pushing it higher up.

At this point I am not going to run any oil. Some guys run springs on the inside but still use oil to "smooth" out the movement. Since most of my weight is in the wheels/axle and not the body or chassis, it doesn't bounce around that much. Plus, when I got the Mad Torque the front shocks had clearly leaked, so I would have to buy new seals for them in order to run shock oil.

I'm not entirely convinced that style of suspension will work very well... There is nothing to adsorbed bumps and drops.
it would be placing a lot of stress on the suspension... What ever u do don't try to jump it lol.

with that style of suspension wouldent it lift the body (cog) with each bump??

reminds me of when I was a teenager... We would lower our cars until they were on the bumpstops, sure it looked cool but handled like it had no suspension at all.

drops would be absorbed...springs below pistons would absorb some load when the tire drops. Bumps would not be absorbed...but to tell the truth they are not really absorbed now either....the springs above the piston are small and thus fully compressed....so there really is not any up travel.

If you tried the type of setup I am going to on any truck that drove faster than 10mph, it would be crazy, handle poorly and be very rough on the shocks/shock mounts. You don't want to run a setup with little or no up travel on any rc/machine that can go reasonably fast. But the mad torque is a pretty slow beast...maybe 5-6mph WOT. At those speeds, bumps can be absorbed enough just by the soft tires.

so I took the hummer to a crawler meet at the local hobby shop today.

I still haven't worked on the suspension, so it has trouble side-hilling.

But otherwise it performed well. I drove it 1.5 hours without an issue. I did break a mirror off when it rolled down a 10 foot rock covered bank, but the mirrors looked funny anyway.

I also got to push other truck up/over/threw stuff several times. being so heavy and having wider tires gives it good traction.

I also was able to use it to make a mud hole. the big heavy truck cut some nice ruts for others to get stuck in. The hummer on the other hand could drive threw the worst of the mud at 1/8 throttle :)

She got a lot of compliments from the guys. And it was great fun getting out and crawling with a bunch of guys, there were at least 10-11 trucks out tonight.

Best of all, the hummer looks even better with some mud on it!

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