natuica-xp

I just got a Northwind 36 yesterday. Excited to get the project started, but my debate is weather or not paint the hull. I have already hand painted the steering wheels and deck detail last night. To be honest i'm not the best with a spray paint can in my opinion. I'm afraid if I start to paint it the paint may run or is there away to aviod that. Do I need to primer it and clear coat it? I want to paint it either white or dark blue like the boat Radiance in the movie "Wind" (side not; excellent movie about the America's Cup). I would appreciate any possible feedback. Thank you.

wismerhell

thats how I did it:

http://www.geocities.jp/schocklm/pai...he_seawind.htm

TexasBob

It's pretty easy actually. Hopefully the deck hardware is not installed which makes things easier. Mask off the deck. Overlap the edges a little with the masking tape, Then run an exacto knife around the edge of the deck to get a clean line. Hull prep is important. Use a sanding block (I usually start with 320, then 400, then 600 grit Wet/Dryand wet sand) and smooth any dips/ imperfections out. Sand in multiple directions to prevent "Flat spotting". One Tip is to ligntly "dust" the hull with the paint and lightly sand it off. As you sand it will point out any low spots or ripples in the hull. Once the hull is smooth, Spray on your color. Put on light coats to prevent running/sagging(Especially the First coat to set up "tackiness" adhesion to the hull. Follow can instructions between coats. I usually put on 3-5 coats depending on the paint. Again, I typically use Krylon or Dupli-color. Both come in a wide variety of colors. Dupli-Color is avalable at Automotive stores. Let dry 3-4 days. Lightly Wet sand with 600-800 to get rid of any orange peel or dust. Then give it two or three coats fo a high gloss clear. This helps protect the color coat and makes it easy to polish out any minor scratches later . If you're really anal, you can wet sand out the gloss coat by hand with 800 -1000 grit, Use 3M Finesse It Polish to polish it out, and put on a couple of coats of Starbrite polish (Teflon base) for a mirror finish. DON'T use a waxed based subtance as it actually produces a larger adhesion barrior and is slower than the bare hull. Don't get in a hurry. Take your time on the prep, let the paint dry well, and you should have a beautiflul boat.

natuica-xp

When wet sanding, do I dip the paper in the water or use a spay bottle? I appreciate the feedback so far.

TexasBob

I just use a bowl of water. Tip: put a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent in the water before sanding the color coat. It gives a smoother cut. Also I forgot to mention cleaning the boat before spraying. This is important! Any grease/oil from your fingers can cause the paint not to adhere. Wiz had it in his notes. I also go over the boat with a tack cloth just before spraying to eliminate any last minute dust particles

natuica-xp

Well I painted it last night. I decided to paint it with the duplicolor mirage paint. So far it looks good. I will need to sand it on the bottom, but the sides look good. After I sand it I'm going to clear coat it.

TexasBob

Sounds like you've got a good start. Post a pic when your finished. Always like to look at new boats.

timmosav

Ive just started painting the hull of my Fairwind, I followed the line of a light spray mist for the first coat to help further adhesion, and have now added several further layers.

Im now about to use a Clear Gloss to seal the colour in.

The question I have is with the Gloss should I spray mist again then build up a couple of full layers, or do I go for a full layer straight off.

Before starting on the Fairwind I experimented a little on a cheap electric boat, and the gloss paint looked a bit dimply in places when dried, and I dont know why that would have been, as the colour layers had looked totally flat.

TexasBob

I would mist it first. Several light coats the same as you sprayed on the color to build up a little "depth", then one nice final coat for smoothness. If you put it on too thick at one time you can get runs or sags. Patience is the key, don't try to put it on too fast. After it drys for a couple of days you can sand out any dust particles or "Orange Peel" by wet sanding lightly with 800, 1000 and rubbing it out with a fine polishing compound. I use 3M Finesse It III. If you want a really slick finish, put a couple of coats of Starbrite polish with Teflon. Just don't use a wax based polish. It produces a higher coefficient of drag than a plain sanded or compounded bottom and can actually slow your boat. It's fine to sail it then but be advised that the paint can remain "soft" for two to three weeks. It will feel dry to the touch, but if you leave it on a towel, cloth, or webbing in the cradle, it can pick up the pattern of the fabric. Best to put smooth paper under it for the first few weeks to let it "cure" completely.

timmosav

Many thanks TexasBob, very useful and reassuring information

Larry Ludwig

Since you like pics of new boats, here is the latest Vic to come out of the shop. 6 oz under weight and a custom paint scheme and aiming for dead last at the Alamo Shootout in 6 weeks since I have to drive it. (unless the next one turns out better than this one gets bumped.

Texas Tech Colors... GO RAIDERS... don't know where to.. but GO anyway...

This was painted with DUPLI-COLOR and then wet sanded to 1500, then applied the 3M PERFECT IT system which gave a final hull finish that you can read fine print in the reflection. In fact, it looks as if it were cast in black plastic. It shines as a mirror when the Sun catches it.


LL

DONS BOAT WORKS

My Feedback: (3)

Looks good Larry. what fabric are the sails made of?

LtDoc

Basically what it amounts to is, "do you want to paint it?". Sure, some difference in speed is possible, but unless you really make a mess out of it, not enough difference to make any difference. Disclaimer: That means that unless you are as good a sailor as all the rest of the competition, painting does make for a very good excuse...
- 'Doc

timmosav

Can any custom painting of the sails be done, or does the paint affect their use - my sails are a nylon type material dont know exactly what it is called

Larry Ludwig

The sails are TriSpi 25.

Someone asked about painting sails. I have not had any luck with anything in that realm. Painting, or inking... it just never looked the way that I wanted it to turn out. What I have done is to apply computer generated graphics on clear film, adhesive backed. This worked great until we discoved that the ink from the laser printer wasn't waterproof. [X(]

Yeah, the hard way... but at least it was not at the event, and there was time to correct before the public saw it. You can, use clear decal film, and print on it, and then clear coat it before you trim from the sheet and apply. I have had some 50/50 results. Depends on the type of clear coat, type of decal, type of printer/ink.... and also most importantly... the graphic. Some colors show edges worse than others... and that is one of the problems... it looks the way a decal looks on a cheap kids toy. TOOOooooo many variables... but you can just experiment and see what you get. Some people will love it.. .others will say why did he put that XXXX on his boat?

Be prepared if painting or inking for it to flake off, or in the case of ink, to show stroke marks more than you think it would... particularly once it is out in the Sun on the water. Someday someone will come up with sail material that will go directly through your printer and be water proof and it will be too easy.